Recently, I completed the hike from Valbona to Theth starting from the hostel 'The Galley' in Shkoder. I'm here with Diane and a group of guys: Marvin, Antoine, Hugo, and me.

The Albanian Alps are truly beautiful, and it was well worth it. 

We have one more day in Theth, even though it’s expected to rain later.

In Shkoder, the past few days have been calmer after the long nights in Tirana. From there, the journey began to the 'Hike' Valbona to Theth. More on that in the next blog post.

My time in Tirana is slowly coming to an end. It was very hot here during the day, and more activities happened in the hostel in the evening. I met some nice and crazy people, especially Zac, Kayden, Joseph, and Ryan from Maine (USA), who were my roommates and particularly wild.

Day #62

Wednesday, July 1st.

From Fishtë to Podgorica

Country: Albania / Montenegro

In the morning, I wake up to footsteps and the sound of an engine next to my tent.

My presence seems to be accepted, as it continues and there are no complaints.

Probably just a brief visit, and the place is cleaner than before.

It's just after 5, and I briefly consider sleeping a little longer.

But somehow I'm awake too, and so the day starts early.

After the usual breakfast of oatmeal and - watch out - bananas, I'm ready to go.

Alongside olive trees, which are grown in abundance here, I also pass many bunkers from the time of Hoxha.

It's always astonishing how a single person can so profoundly shape a country.

Interestingly, some of them are being repurposed or used as hay sheds.

The people in Albania are very creative.

The first stop is Shkoder, an old city, and after a tour through the alleys, I take a break in a café.

Filling up on caffeine.

I have a nice conversation with the young waiter, whose dream it is to move to Bavaria one day so he can go to the stadium every two weeks.

He has actually spent more time in Munich than I have. But that's quite easy to do in just one day.

I briefly push my bike up to the castle. The view over the city and the surrounding countryside is great, but I don't feel like parking my bike to explore.

So I push back down to save the brakes.

Or rather, I press myself into the ground and let myself be pulled down by the weight.

Speaking of which, from yesterday's brake test, I have a burn blister on my finger.

I extend my break and have a second breakfast at the foot of the castle, with a view of the river.

The activity is interesting. Horses and goats pass by, while on the water, there are SUPs and jet skis.

I become curious when I see a strange animal. Until I realize it's a diver. Oh, wait, two of them.

Bravely trusting the water.

We continue on flat land, unremarkably along busy country roads towards the border.

It's so boring that my head feels dull.

Singing loudly and talking to myself helps.

What strikes me today, in the little distraction, is that specifically three car brands from home are disproportionately represented.

I make a brief stop at a restaurant near the border.

I'm hungry and still have too much cash on hand.

So much for my initial money problems.

And then I'm at the next border. I just ride past the line of waiting trucks and cars.

An advantage of being a cyclist.

At the same time, I encounter two bikepackers.

The special thing is that they are two women, which, according to my observations so far, is the exception.

It's clear that there are generally more cyclists out here than I expected to see.

Montenegro then truly lives up to its name, heading up the incline.

On the last kilometers to Podgorica, I ride along a country road, with no shoulder.

In my travel guide, the behavior of drivers is described as 'not very cooperative.'

My description starts with A and ends with social.

All in all, it unfortunately creates an extremely negative atmosphere, further triggered by idle gestures and honking that elicit an instinct to flee.

This is reinforced in the capital.

There's a detour to the 'Niagara Falls' of Montenegro.

A very impressive waterfall, or rather several, and it's a magnet for people, with many swimming.

Unfortunately, the water can only be accessed via stairs, and due to the time, I first focus on finding accommodation.

Finding the address poses another challenge, as there are no street names or house numbers.

But eventually, I manage that too.

A few clothes are washed and hung up on the balcony together with the tarpaulin, which is still wet and heavy from yesterday's stop.

I take my bike to the city center to get an impression.

But it remains that everything feels unwelcoming and negative to me, so after dinner, I head straight back to my accommodation.

Moreover, it's already late, and I urgently need to get to bed.

Song of the day:

Fatoni - Dumm

Tag #61

Tuesday, June 30

From Tirana to Fishtë

Country: Albania

My plan to start early has partially worked, so I set off in pleasant temperatures.

First, I head out of the city, which mostly runs along quiet side streets.

Shortly behind Tirana, I pass the ruins of the peak fortress of Preza.

This is clearly an indication, as I arrive at the top drenched in sweat.

So, I take a short break to enjoy the view of the plain and cool down.

Many parts of the complex have been restored, such as the bell tower and the associated mosque, so I take a little tour.

After that, I go steeply down a gravel road, needing to brake a lot.

In between, I check how hot the brake disc is and burn my fingers a little.

From that point on, I push it down, worried that the brake pads may glaze otherwise.

At the bottom, a sign points the way to Tirana, and the view on the map reveals that it was an unnecessary climb; I could have stayed in the plain.

Regardless, I take in the culture and turn left.

Through the valley, I go along quiet roads, gently up and down, and I make good progress.

During a break, I realize that I stopped right in front of some fig trees and can pick a handful of ripe fruits.

It becomes exciting when I have to cross a more than dilapidated bridge.

Somewhat reassuring is that a corpulent local casually walks over the old structure, which sways a lot.

For safety reasons, I wait until he has arrived on my side before pushing my bike over the untrustworthy planks.

I make it to the other side safely.

After a conversation with a French bikepacker, I take a break and upload the next section of the route into the GPS while eating.

Rain is forecasted for later; for now, it is just hot and humid.

In the distance, smoke rises repeatedly from the fields, but since everyone remains calm, it seems to be okay.

Exciting, to burn fields or parts of them in these temperatures and dryness.

Unpleasant are the extreme bumps that are everywhere.

Sometimes, only a rope lies across the road.

This definitely ensures that cars hit the brakes, only to accelerate again.

Everything looks like a big racetrack.

And the stench is extreme today.

Hopefully, it's just the trash lying around everywhere and no decomposing animals.

That's what Kai reported when he traveled through Montenegro.

Heading north, I am facing a thunderstorm front, causing some mountains to disappear into the mist.

Fortunately, when the heavy rain begins, I find a reasonably suitable spot far from houses by a meadow and decide to end the tour for today.

The tarp is set up quickly.

And the rain, as often in the mountains, passes quicker than expected, so I decide to continue.

It's still quite early, and refilling water after a hot day is also a sensible idea.

In an area where there are signs warning about crossing turtles, I find one helplessly flipped on its back by the roadside.

I flip it over and wonder if it can do that on its own.

As an influencer, something like 'write it in the comments' would probably be said now.

I researched, and it is almost impossible for turtles to get back on their feet; it’s a life-threatening position.

In the newly discovered app, I saw directions to a potential campsite and make my way there. In the end, I arrive at a very beautiful place, above an olive grove with a view of a lake.

It may be private property, and I might have misunderstood the directions, but I realize this too late.

The tent is already set up.

Due to various circumstances, including an old refrigerator nearby and mostly gravel here, I decide to stay.

While eating my leftovers, which consist of noodles with spices, I observe the lightning storm flashing behind the mountain range.

Later, I even manage to photograph one before it's time to crawl into the tent.

Song of the Day:

Element of Crime - Death Kills

Day #60

Monday, June 29.

Rest day in Tirana

Country: Albania

Task one - Bank.

This will be done before breakfast. Who knows what options may arise.

At the branch, I am told that my credit card will be destroyed. No alternatives.

Frustrating, but I have to deal with it.

At least I know the necessary numbers by heart and can continue to pay online and book accommodations.

Then I head to another bank for cash.

It goes smoothly.

There’s a familiar drugstore, so I can first get some new toothpaste and electrolytes.

Across the street, there’s a stand selling fresh figs among other things.

I’ve developed a taste for them and enjoy eating them leisurely at the central Skanderbeg Square.

Somehow I always end up there.

After shopping at the supermarket, it’s high time for breakfast, so I go looking for a shady spot in the park for a change.

While I eat, I work on the upcoming route, which has been provided in segments of different lengths.

Additionally, I need to reverse the direction and then transfer it from one app to another.

I notice a voyeur behind a tree watching three teenagers playing volleyball.

Oh wait, he’s stealing their phones from their backpacks.

I confront him, as best as I can given the language barrier, and he becomes aggressive.

It’s also awkward for him to be interrupted from his work.

The teenagers, who witness our confrontation, unfortunately misunderstand my wave for them to come over.

When the phones land on the grass, they check that they are theirs and quickly retrieve them.

They have their phones back, and I’m still dealing with the guy who is getting more aggressive.

Strange attitude towards solidarity.

However, my biggest concern in this situation is my bicycle.

His desperation doesn’t seem that great since he refuses my bread.

In the end, I can pack my things and walk away.

Everything went well.

At another location, I can continue organizing the sections of the TransDinarica.

I roughly input them into the regular app for an approximate overview of the route.

Meanwhile, I transfer the stages with the distance information into my notebook.

Sounds complicated, and it is too.

In the end, I feel good about the route, distance, and my remaining travel time.

Much effort, much relaxation.

In contrast to the hustle and bustle around me.

Tirana is a hectic city, just like Istanbul and Thessaloniki.

At least there are some narrow bike lanes in the center, where I spend most of my time, and correspondingly more cyclists. This again supports the argument that infrastructure must be created, and it is being used.

After an iced coffee, it’s time to clean the chain.

I quickly have company, and there’s an interested glance into my side pockets as if it were a supermarket.

I notice stark contrasts between rich and poor.

Young toughs in flashy cars and more homeless people than I’ve seen elsewhere.

Then I head back to my accommodation because to pump air, I need to replace a valve first.

It’s fun to fill the tire completely in these temperatures.

I’m thankful for Dave’s air pump, which has a pressure gauge.

It’s worth its weight in gold; otherwise, I would have worked too much in the end.

When I walk into the city in the evening, I’m initially confused because football is on everywhere.

Eventually, it dawns on me that the World Cup must have started.

Apparently, Albania is playing too, as many tables are occupied and everyone is watching the screens intently.

After dinner, most things are packed because I want to start early tomorrow.

As long as it’s still cool. Or so.

The air conditioning provides relief, as every movement is sweaty and my apartment is right under the roof.

This way, I can at least relax and doze off.

Song of the day:

Dying Fetus - Wrong One to Fuck With

Sunday, June 28th.

From Librazhd to Tirana

Country: Albania

Everything fits, the swaying of the hammock was wonderful and I am ready for an early start.

Everything is done and then the question arises, where are the headphones?

Probably in the side pocket of the hammock, where I 'briefly' parked them.

Thinking that I really have to remember to take them out.

I am quite sure about this, but I would rather check immediately and start by unpacking my dry bag by the road.

With music in my ears, I can finally get going and I continue following the country road, which somehow is also under construction.

At some point, it turns into a kind of highway. It's so new that I am the only one on my lane since everyone else is driving on the other side of the guardrail.

At first, I still think that the cars in my direction are driving the wrong way.

Contrary to expectations, however, I experience no accident.

Occasionally, a truck comes towards me.

Here, everyone seems to do what they want.

The last stretch to Elbasan is again a country road, and a replacement bus service reveals where our decommissioned buses stay.

It’s a steady downhill, and I quickly reach Elbasan, an older city in central Albania.

I briefly take a detour into the alleys of the old town.

As I’d like to have some cash, I head to the next ATM.

Which then eats my credit card. Allegedly, I entered the PIN incorrectly too many times.

Fuck.

In the park, next to an archaeological excavation, I first fill up my water.

Then it continues; there's no sense in spending the day here and waiting for Monday.

Let's wait and see if I can achieve something in Tirana tomorrow.

A taxi driver greets me in German.

He once worked in Oberhausen and immediately saw that I am German.

Hopefully for different reasons than the expression on my face, which might be a bit grim after the incident with the card... I am partly annoyed with myself.

If only I had just held the card to the reader.

And it has already gotten late again and thus hot.

Then it goes steeply and long uphill, the heat is hitting me hard again.

So, music in my ears that pumps.

On the last meters, a passing car greets me.

The double honk is quite clear there.

Then the couple stops, and I receive figs as a gift.

Again, a very heartfelt moment even without a common language.

As I am almost at the highest point, a break is due anyway, and I settle down under a tree.

The view is wonderful.

And while I am spreading out my supplies and enjoying the view in the distance, an fruit farmer comes by and gives me another handful of figs.

Super nice and this time definitely for other reasons than me looking pained due to the elevation.

What a descent follows now.

Over good ground, it curves down again.

I do have to overtake two cars that are just slowing me down.

It continues downhill a lot, and after a final exhausting climb, Tirana spreads out beneath me.

What a sight, it’s magnificent to have made it this far.

Through bike paths and side streets, I head to the city center to the central Skanderbeg Square.

Next to his equestrian statue, there is also a skyscraper that resembles his likeness.

Think big.

Book accommodation, freshen up, and off to the city, the hunt for food begins.

At a currency exchange, I still need to convert euros to Albanian lek and at the restaurant, I’ll first try if my remaining card is accepted with a drink.

All good.

Then I let the evening wind down at the central square and after an eventful day, I am late to bed.

Song of the day:

Moscow Death Brigade - Against Them All

Wake up, have breakfast, pack, shop, refuel, and off we go to Albania. 

After just 25 minutes, we reached the border and said goodbye to Greece and hello to Albania.

The greeting started off with a faux pas. Upon entering, you have to present the passports and vehicle papers to prove that the vehicle belongs to us. And what happened to us, or more specifically to me? In the hustle, I handed the nice border officer a copy of the horse trailer document. Before I realized it, it was already too late. After the Albanian registration program noticed something was amiss, the once friendly border officer suddenly was not so friendly anymore—it's understandable. I handed her the correct papers, and then she was relieved when we left 🙂.

On the onward journey through Albania, we randomly found a beautiful stop near the Ali Pasha Bridge (https://park4night.com/de/lieu/402616/open/)

for our break.

The rest of the drive to our campsite today was quite uneventful except for the last 5 km. 

According to the internet, we were prepared that the last kilometer would probably only be doable for experienced drivers or 4x4 vehicles, but in my opinion, it starts right after the motorway exit. 'Sharp right turn' the GPS shouts immediately after the exit. Impossible with 6.4 meters, not even in two tries or turning on the street, forget it. So we continued along the gravel road after the exit, crossed the next bridge, and found our way back. We found the path, but supposedly there is a hidden gem somewhere? Flat, nice houses but no sea; instead, we had different travel companions 🪿.

 But then it started! Through a small village steeply uphill on a one-lane, groove-ridden concrete road. If it had been pure gravel, it would have been difficult, but that would still come on the downhill piece. 

There it is, and now I can understand the comments on the web. Then the hidden gem revealed itself, a real insider tip right by the beach, magnificent. 

The water is not as cold as yesterday either 🤣.

Now there is lentil stew!

Since we have appointments, we are flying through the Balkans. One country each day, sometimes even two. But there is enough time to go swimming at least once every day. In the clear, cold waters of the Adriatic, very welcome at 37 degrees. At the Bilećko Lake reservoir in the Republic of Srpska with a view of Montenegro. In Lake Ohrid, one of the oldest lakes in Europe, and Lake Prespa, which lies at 800m and feeds Lake Ohrid underground.

Right after the border crossing from Croatia to Bosnia and Herzegovina and the Republic of Srpska, where you can see from every black crossed-out road sign that people are still very much divided here, our audio starts making a strange grinding, rattling noise in the front wheel. Initially, we couldn’t discover anything in the dark and didn’t want to stay overnight in this somewhat eerie area. So we continued, despite the noise. During a daylight inspection, we find a loose, rusty part in the wheel that can be easily removed. Was it important? Nothing seems to be missing at first. Still, there remains a feeling of decay.

We make our first appointment and meet Joni at Lake Ohrid. We spend two lovely days with them before they head to Zurich and we continue our journey.

Kruja District

San Pietro Beach, Albania

After returning to our accommodation, we had to start packing up, as we needed to be checked out by noon. We went for lunch at a nearby KFC, where we decided to wait until we heard back about our car.

Before three o'clock in the afternoon, we decided to move to the promenade by the sea, and shortly after, a lady from the insurance company called us to let us know that our car was fixed. We then split into 3 pairs: me with Hans, Béďa with Fíla, and Řízek with Maty.

Me with Hans:

We decided that it would be wiser to go to the hospital regarding the rash. So we faced a 3 km long walk, during which we met 6 Czech tourists who were about our age. After sharing impressions from our travels, we continued on. We were surprised by the relatively modern facilities and friendly attitude of the doctors at the hospital. Unfortunately, it was Saturday, so they couldn’t do all the necessary examinations. They had a similar opinion as the pharmacists and prescribed us allergy medication.

Béďa with Fíla:

Our expedition started with the joyful news that the car was ready. We set off immediately, first for cash, as they wanted payment in cash. They chose local hams, exchanged them for euros, and headed to the location marked by the local girl as the bus station.

Here, we hailed a local taxi driver who took on the task of local bus and operated a shared taxi. Along the way, we experienced a real Balkan ride: a packed car, no traffic rules to follow, and stopping for a chat with a friend. In the end, he dropped us off in the village where our car was located. We found the auto service by its location and peeked inside. With some pantomime and an incompetent girlfriend on the phone (the insurance lady), we discovered it wasn’t the right place. A local guy guided us to another shop, and here we finally got our car. Then, with relief in our hearts, we drove back to Vlorë to pick up the rest of the crew.

Řízek with Maty:

Our pair took on perhaps the least entertaining but nevertheless equally important task. To speed things up, we stayed lying in the park on the grass and watched over the luggage of all the others so they wouldn’t have to carry it. Meanwhile, two local natives joined us, and at first, we didn’t know what to expect. In the end, they shared a beer with us, we explained our situation to them, and continued to wait for about two hours for the return of the other members of our expedition.

The timing couldn’t have been better; at the same moment, we returned to our things with Hans and Béďa with Fíla already in the car… finally, something went our way. So we loaded up all the things and set off towards Tirana (the capital of Albania). On the outskirts of the city, we laid out our sleeping bags; some of us went for a run, we had dinner, and then we went to sleep peacefully.