I went rafting and explored the city.

Furthermore, this stop was my first time back in my own apartment in a long while, instead of staying in a hostel.

I'm now on the home stretch and I am looking forward to Germany again.

I'm already curious about how it will be in Zagreb.

Sarajevo is a very interesting city, and the museums certainly reflect the war and war crimes of the 90s. 

The city is a great melting pot of the various religions in the region. The people are very friendly and have preserved their joy of life.

Personally, I have also met some exciting people again. From Jenny (USA), who dreams of making a living with her stories from her travels, to Chris (a teacher from England) and Demo (from Estonia), who is now working as a volunteer in the second hostel where I am staying (previously in Skopje).

I had a few very nice days in Mostar. The highlight was the hostel and the tour we took from the hostel.

I met a lot of lovely people. It made the days, with temperatures around 40 degrees, simply incredibly hot.

Next, I will be heading to Sarajevo and I am already excited about what I will experience there.

Day #69

Wednesday, the 08.07.

From Mostar to Klek

Country: Bosnia and Herzegovina / Croatia

There was a good double breakfast. My usual mix of oatmeal and the rest, and Ruben made some eggs as well.

In the absence of a pot, I cooked in a pan with water. So without a shell.

Creatively solved, the result is acceptable.

Then it's time to say goodbye, as he takes another rest day before riding the same route as me.

To make it worthwhile, we reuse our names once more.

Shortly after departure, I find another side pocket has fallen off.

The zip ties are at hand, and soon after we can finally leave the city.

Fortunately, it's only briefly on the main road until I turn onto a quiet side road, always following the signs of the Ciro Trail.

It gets curious when I have to stop at a level crossing.

Eventually, the barrier rises without a train passing by.

Almost understandable that a car has crossed beforehand.

At the beginning, I follow the Neretva River and make good progress through the plain, always keeping my eyes on the mountains rising to the sides.

I reach an old railway bridge that looks more rotten and dilapidated than trustworthy.

Well, I’m already used to that from Albania.

First of all, it’s time for a break, and additionally, I find myself at a crossroads.

And while I’m still munching on my bread and thinking through my options, I can watch a small praying mantis devour a whole fly right next to me.

It would make sense to leave the bike path and take the shortest route towards the coast from here.

But I decide to take a detour, even though the inclines on the old railway track are starting now.

Or precisely because of that.

I want to see where the trains used to ascend, pulled by two locomotives and pushed by another to transport the wagons.

Moreover, there are supposed to be some tunnels where bats also reside.

So far, it has been smooth asphalt and a relaxed ride, but that will soon change.

How naive and oblivious I am in my decision to follow the trail.

At first, I seriously doubt that I am on the right track given the steep incline and the gravel.

The confirmation comes with the first of many railway tunnels, and I have to realize that my idea of a bike path is far from reality.

There should be one, but in my understanding, it involves more than just removing the tracks and sleepers.

The track bed with its coarse stones is still there, and riding is correspondingly laborious.

This is what I get for wanting to know how it continues.

Stupid decision.

No wonder I don't meet any other bikepackers throughout the day.

At least I know that Ruben wants to battle down this way tomorrow as well.

Hopefully, he enjoys his rest day.

Turning around is long no longer an option for me, so I keep pushing forward.

After all, there really are bats in one of the tunnels.

Exciting and a bit eerie.

Due to the gravel, I am slow and have to keep making balancing swerves as the tires slip.

When I repeatedly brush against the thorn bushes by the roadside, the fun is complete.

As I approach a crossing fast road, the decision is easy to switch directly onto it.

The route will lead over this main road anyway later on.

And so I manage, after a few last elevation meters and a descent to the sea, to reach Neum.

There’s still a restaurant to go to, so I can save myself the trouble of cooking later.

Replenished, I ride to the border to Croatia, which is practically just around the next corner.

Which is good because it’s taking a while.

The ID check is quick, but an officer asks me to follow him, and the craziest check I have ever experienced begins.

I have to empty all pockets, and I have quite a few.

Additionally, it’s like a Matryoshka; inside the pockets are more dry bags.

When he eventually offers to get a dog, we’re maybe halfway through, I gladly accept that.

Anything is better than having to unpack everything for no good reason and then repack it.

While I’m actually thinking about where to spend the night.

Thankfully, the dog is spared from having to sniff my things.

Because the supervisor of the eager officer comes by, at least that’s my assumption about his position, he asks about my trip, says something to his colleague, and then I can finally leave with a friendly goodbye.

The positive aspect of this action is that I use the time to ask the two about a camping site for the night, and I’m given a beach behind the next curve where I can set up my tent.

Wild camping on the advice of the border police, I’ll take that.

Once past the beach bar there and then beside the olive trees.

It feels strange, as there are still many people there and loud music is playing, so I sit down for a moment and take care of my social life before I set up my camp.

At some point, the peace returns, even if it’s only around midnight, and I can fall asleep in the tent that I have set up in the meantime after an eventful day.

Song of the day:

Goran Bregovic - Polizia Molto Arrabiata

Tuesday, July 7th.

Rest day in Mostar

Country: Bosnia and Herzegovina

For breakfast, there is Börek; Ruben woke up early and already went shopping.

This morning we thought it would be a good time to introduce ourselves.

In principle, it’s not that important; we get along well, and that’s what matters.

So we set out together to the city and after a short round and an ice cream, we find ourselves in the heart of the old town.

A local I met yesterday with his crew told me he is one of the bridge jumpers and wants to jump down at 2:00 PM.

There is a tradition that all boys must jump from the bridge at least once.

Some do it as a tourist attraction as well.

We make ourselves comfortable by the river and watch the goings-on.

There are many tourists around, although I expected more people.

In the meantime, someone actually jumps down, but unfortunately, we only witness the landing.

The guy from yesterday looked different.

No matter; eventually, it's time for the next meal, so off we go.

We find something nearby, then we head back to the accommodation to hang up the washed clothes, which thankfully the machine has taken care of.

Since the city is quite manageable, we wander a bit outside, up the hill, to a gorge to have a look at Mostar.

Still quite manageable.

The lack of shade soon drives us back down, plus it's time for the next meal.

The stomachs need to be filled, and we do that in the old town, in a quaint little restaurant.

And because we liked it so much, we go back to the river afterward, enjoy the view of Stari Most again, the colorful hustle and bustle, and let the evening wind down.

At the accommodation, I start packing a few things in preparation, and then, once again later than planned, it’s urgently time for bed.

Denis Pauna - The Four Horseman

Day #67

Monday, 06.07.

From somewhere near Tušila to Mostar

Country: Bosnia and Herzegovina

[Note from the editor: Nicko had everything ready, then accidentally deleted all the text while copying it because he thought it would be a good idea to publish the report after a swim in the sea with wet fingers. He hit the keyboard and replaced everything with an o. Then he rewrote half of it, only to remember that there was already a first draft with Jenni in the news. Yes. So he combined both, and maybe it has turned out slightly longer than it already was. Enjoy reading.]

The night was relaxed and free from animal visits, but the knowledge of landmines causes a queasy feeling.

And that despite the fact that there are no warning signs in this area, and I am on a road, albeit a remote and unused one.

First, I need to tackle the last kilometers of yesterday's rocky ascent, and despite the early hour, just after eight, I soon start to sweat.

After all, I'm carrying less weight; there's less food and water that I need to transport.

Upon reaching the top, I encounter a Swiss bikepacker coming from the opposite direction, who is dripping just as much as I am.

After a brief exchange, I continue on.

Over the rubble down, which means letting it roll slowly and braking.

I skip the town of Tušila as it forms a dead-end for my route and turn left directly; the next steep climb awaits me.

Just one last small up and down, and finally, I've reached above the tree line and also the highest point.

At least regarding the road.

A little higher, there is a flag and I smile at the drivers going there to pose for a photo.

Time for a break. Finally, I've reached above the tree line and also the highest point.

From here, it's all downhill for a long stretch.

It has to be that way at some point.

But first, a break is in order to enjoy the moment, surrounded by green meadows and an otherwise barren rocky landscape, which is also impressive.

The view of the curves ahead of me, promising a fantastic descent, is also beautiful.

A group of three women passes by, who, as I later learn, are supported travelers, meaning they have a luggage transport.

They ask me if I lost my hat.

I saw it during a short descent but was too quick to pick it up.

The descent is great until I have to stop briefly because of a car in front of me. It’s moving too slowly for my liking.

Finally, I roll over asphalt again, allowing me to glide smoothly and take in the surroundings.

Always keeping an eye out for the next pothole.

Along the way, I meet another German bikepacker and we exchange information.

He warns me about the stage that comes on the TD (TransDinarica) behind Mostar, and I become ever more convinced to switch to the Ciro Trail heading towards the coast, even though it means veering south since it is an old railway line that has been converted into a bike path.

And despite the expected holiday traffic there.

For now, I continue, and at the end of the descent, there’s a small shop where I need to make a purchase.

The options are scarce here and it's probably the last chance before Mostar.

And I’ve given up on the idea of making it there today after looking at the route profile this morning.

One way or another, it’s clear that it won’t continue until the day after tomorrow from there and there are still a good 50km and a few elevation meters to conquer.

In front of the shop, there sits a bikepacker from England, and we go through the usual questions about where we’re from, where we’re going, and whatnot.

He moves on while I’m still packing my meager haul.

Shortly afterward, we meet again, and since it’s time for lunch and there’s a holiday village here, we decide to stop at a restaurant together and continue our ride together afterward.

We agree to take a longer route around Lake Boračko.

Komoot wants to go up through serpentine paths in the forest, but we take the longer route of the TD, knowing that it saves us some stress and pushing.

Still, it’s more rocky and loose stones into the inclines.

At the top, he has to ask a farmer for water, and we speculate that it’s exactly the farmer that the Swiss, whom we both met independently, told us about.

Very hospitable and also keen on getting close.

We ride further and soon take a break with an incredible view into the valley and rugged cliffs rising in the distance, illuminated by the evening sun.

And then there’s asphalt again. The descent on gravel would be a disaster, so we can rush down before tackling one last climb.

Being on the road together makes it significantly easier to ignore the exertions and distract ourselves through conversation, making for a pleasant ride.

Finally, there's a view into the next valley.

However, it’s very foggy, and there’s a lot of smoke between the mountains, significantly limiting visibility.

We suspect it’s still related to the forest fires that occurred here in the past few days.

Meanwhile, Mostar is getting close, and anyone paying attention might already sense it; we book shared accommodation since we can be in the city by early evening.

Until then, it’s just under 30km left over one final long descent, interrupted by breaks to let the brakes cool down, and a flat section that will take us into the city.

After checking in, I head into the city on foot to take in first impressions.

Also, I really want to see Stari Most, the old bridge.

Alone because the Englishman stays back at the accommodation.

I still have to refer to him that way. We get along well, but neither of us has seen a reason to introduce ourselves by name.

When I find a bar in the center, I write another report, ignoring the football broadcast, before heading into the old town.

By now, it’s so late that I’m almost alone there and I can admire the city's landmark from the riverside.

Then, it’s urgent to head to bed.

The day has been long and exhausting, especially since I broke my previous climbing record again.

Song of the day:

Infiltrator - Remnants of Battle

Day #66

Sunday, July 5th.

From Kamp Stark Dud to somewhere just before Tušila

Country: Bosnia and Herzegovina

It was a cold night, but my sleeping bag managed well.

As I did last evening, the tent is spread out first in the sun.

This time, to let it dry from condensation, then breakfast will be had.

After departure, I shop; luckily, a small shop is open, and I can get an onion, new pasta, and water.

I adjust my route slightly to stay on the main road.

This saves me from climbing 300 meters over gravel. The route will later lead back to the same road anyway.

Maybe I would have decided differently on a weekday; for Sunday, I expect moderate traffic and thus also to remain safe.

While I pedal through the gorge, the view of the rock wall is enough for me to enjoy the ride.

The alternative would have been to be up there.

And I will still have enough climbs to tackle throughout the day; moreover, I have information that there will be virtually no asphalt.

In the tunnels that were dug for the road, I have my full lighting on to draw attention to myself by all means.

And I am a bit surprised when I see a person ahead of me walking along the road.

At first, I think of a farmer or something similar, but it’s Angel.

A hippie from Mexico, headed to a hidden festival that is supposed to take place here in the mountains.

It’s an exciting story from the rainbow family, but I graciously decline the offer to accompany him.

I've been on the way to a festival of my liking for a few weeks already.

When I stop to take a photo of the river, now far below me, a biker stops and asks if I need help.

Very kind, and at least I get confirmation from a local that I am heading in the right direction.

And on we go, now actually consistently and strenuously uphill.

Initially still on asphalt, but soon it continues over loose stones, scree, and dirt.

And this is an official road; Sarajevo is among the signs. And gravel stays with me throughout the day, except for a few exceptions, in all its facets.

During the lunch break, a few cows lazily pass by me. For them, no problem, always following the bell that hangs loudly around the ox's neck.

Very different, however, is the guy who shortly after comes along on his bike, hectically separating his herd.

In the next village, I must seize the opportunity to shop in the tiny store.

The options are sparse here.

A bikepacker from Switzerland comes from the opposite direction while I'm still stowing away my meager haul, and I learn from her that the French couple is ahead of me.

This sparks a bit of my ambition, but I must keep following Beppo; haste only causes stress and no progress.

So, a break comes again in between.

Eating brings the necessary energy to actually get somewhere.

It's exhausting going up on gravel roads, and annoyingly going down on gravel roads.

Instead of making progress, I am busy braking too much.

Knowing that after the lowest point, it will go steeply back up again.

But it's presumptuous to wish for a bridge from one mountain to another; asphalt would be a nice start.

I would have liked to have completed the last climb entirely, but the sun is already setting, and there is no twilight in the mountains.

The sun is there, then the sun is gone.

Fortunately, I find a spot that I like right away.

In a curve, an old path goes ahead, half-hidden by a tree, which I can follow.

Behind the next bend, I also pitch my tent along the path.

Even 30 years after the war, there are still many landmines in BiH, and it will take a few more years before one can enter the forests safely.

Cooking myself dinner is almost becoming a habit.

Pasta is available everywhere and makes a nice change from daily bread.

For safety, I remove myself from my campsite to ensure the smell of food is further away.

The groceries are then pulled up into a tree, as I am very secluded in the forests.

This also prevents any reception, and it's the first time that I can't send Jenni a message that I'm fine.

Fortunately, we discussed earlier that this situation would likely occur, and she is prepared accordingly.

Later, I ask myself why I only covered so few kilometers.

A glance at the altitude gained is enough of an answer for me, and then there are the slow descents.

For the tent, I forego the rainfly, as I want to be able to see what’s going on outside in case of doubt.

Snoring would definitely be practical today to draw attention to myself and inform animals of my presence in time.

But apart from a few fireflies, I don't see any animals.

That’s totally fine with me, and so I ultimately fall asleep relaxed under the starry sky.

Song of the day:

Dubioza Collective - No Escape from Balkan

Unfortunately, the weather report predicts severe thunderstorms, but our desire for new countries and their people is growing.🙃

Insight into Velika Kladuša:

**Attractions and Activities:**

The Ottoman fortress towers over the city and offers breathtaking views over Velika Kladuša and the surrounding countryside. Here you can not only explore the historical remains, but also enjoy the sunset over the city.

**These Roman baths are a historical gem. The well-preserved ruins provide insight into the region's Roman heritage. A place that will delight history and architecture lovers alike.

** Velika Kladuša is a place where different religious communities live together in harmony. You can visit both Ottoman mosques and Catholic churches and experience the impressive architecture and spiritual atmosphere.

** A trip to Una National Park is a must. Here you can experience crystal clear water, picturesque waterfalls and diverse wildlife. Rafting and hiking are popular activities in this untouched nature.

**Culinary delights:**

**Conclusion:**

In Trebević, a bit from Sarajevo, where our last night’s stay is planned, the boys checked out the bobsled track. Since we were sleeping at about 1000 m above sea level, it was so cold that we quickly warmed up with soups and went straight to bed.

Maty

We continued across the Bosnian border to Trebinje. Here, we went for a late lunch at Restaurant Kolo, where the guys also stopped for lunch two years ago during their travels in Bosnia. With full stomachs, we went for a swim in the biotop by the river.

Next, one of the main attractions of our journey awaited us - grandpa Rakija. For context, the guys had visited here two years ago and together with grandpa and his wife, they drank rakija and made a decent purchase of this local grape brandy. We arrived at their house, but unfortunately discovered that no one was home. We decided to go to the town to refuel and then come back to try again. It worked out, and on our second attempt, we were welcomed by an older gentleman and his wife. It wasn't grandpa Rakija, but his brother. We drank rakija together and had a pleasant chat. We bought a total of 13 liters of rakija and said goodbye to the lovely couple.

After a joyful evening, we set up our tent a bit outside the town of Stolac and went to sleep.

After a truly restful night that provided us with the energy needed for new adventures, we set off for the historic Mostar. Our stomachs were growling suspiciously, and so we made an obligatory stop at a café to tackle breakfast. My thoughts were eagerly circling around the long-awaited Burek – finally! But fate had other plans. The waitress ruthlessly shattered my dreams: Burek was only available on the sign, not on the plate.

Disappointed, but not defeated, I left the meal selection to my better half, Bianca. After an intense study of the menu, she triumphantly declared: 'A breakfast platter!' What she meant was, in reality, the 'breakfast platter' turned out to be an opulent grill platter that offered everything the grill had to offer. Well, what can you do? We had lunch for breakfast instead. But I must admit: like everything we had ordered in this area so far, it was simply delicious. Well-fed and with a grin on our faces, we finally continued on to Mostar.

Parking search and first impressions

Mostar and parking - that's a story in itself. There are parking spaces around the famous bridge, but the stories of pushy guides with foreign license plate preferences had put me off. So we opted for the safe option: a parking lot with a barrier and parking meter. And lo and behold, a real stroke of luck! For just 2 KM (about 1 €) per hour, we could park our car. A small tip on the side: Bring enough local currency! The machines only accept bills and coins (note: 5 KM coins are not accepted), and card payment is a foreign concept here.

With a secured parking space, we headed to the bazaar and the bridge. Mostar is definitely a city in transition. Everywhere there is construction, renovation, and beautification happening. The first 200 meters of our pedestrian zone led us through a construction site – new asphalt stones were being laid here. The buildings at the beginning of the pedestrian zone presented an exciting mix of communist era and Ottoman architecture. The closer we got to the bazaar, the more historically significant the buildings became. We passed a beautiful mosque with adjacent Muslim graves. Notably, many tombstones bore the year of death 1993. By the way, the mosque is accessible to everyone, and the courtyard invites you to linger and look around.

Bazaar stroll and ice cream strategy

Upon arriving at the bazaar, we were greeted by the usual tourist shops that offer everything a souvenir heart could desire. We were positively surprised that no one tried to drag us into their stores or sell us anything. Here, tourists themselves have to take the initiative if they want to make a purchase – very pleasant! The price of ice cream also revealed to us that we were approaching the bridge: at the start of the pedestrian zone, a scoop cost 0.80 €, but at the bridge, it was already 1.50 €. We really liked the bazaar and the old buildings; everything was beautifully presented. You could almost imagine how wonderfully the whole city must have once been. Everywhere we could pay in Euros, but only in the normal stores where locals shopped was card payment the norm.

Rose petal lemonade and architectural masterpiece

Just before the bridge, we treated ourselves to a refreshing drink at a café. Bianca ordered Bosnian coffee, and I wanted to have homemade lemonade. Unfortunately, there was none, but there was a drink made from rose petals! As a 'real man,' I could not resist this exotic offering and ordered it. What can I say? It tasted fantastic! By the way, we were there outside the high season, and it was still quite crowded. I can't even imagine how it would be here during the peak season.

After a short break, we headed to the bridge – an absolute architectural masterpiece! From up there, there was a breathtaking view of the Neretva River. For the brave or wild, speedboat rides are offered at the foot of the bridge, but we graciously declined.

Heat, history, and shopping

After thoroughly admiring the bridge, the air-conditioned car called us. It was now a whopping 35 degrees Celsius! On the way back, we noticed that the number of tourists on the streets decreased, but the restaurants filled up. Halfway to the car, we passed the Museum of War and Genocide. Bianca was eager to go inside. At an equivalent of about 10 € per person, the entry fee was quite expensive for the area, but if a woman wants… I don't want to write or report anything about the museum. If you wish, you can see it for yourself. Then we continued on to the car and LC Waikiki – Bianca's obligatory shopping program.

Relaxation and conclusion

Upon arriving at our accommodation, I jumped straight into the pool to cool off. After a refreshing dip, our lovely landlady Moni treated us to a very special delicacy: homemade Baklava! Just the aroma was heavenly, and the taste was simply irresistible – really super delicious!

A huge thank you to Moni for this warm gesture and the sweet treat that made our day even more enjoyable! We ended the evening in the restaurant next to our accommodation. Since we had enjoyed it so much the day before, we decided to spend our last evening in Mostar there by the river.

My conclusion about Mostar: You simply have to see it! Tomorrow we continue on to Macedonia. Stay tuned!

Türkce

Mostar – Burek her zaman olması gerektiği yerde olmuyor ve park yeri başlı başına bir sanat

Yeni maceralar için ihtiyacımız olan enerjiyi bize veren gerçekten dinlendirici bir gecenin ardından tarihi Mostar'a doğru yola koyulduk. Midelerimiz şüpheli bir şekilde guruldamaya başlamıştı, bu yüzden kahvaltı yapmak için zorunlu bir kafede durduk. Düşüncelerim çoktan uzun zamandır beklenen burek'i özlemeye başlamıştı – sonunda! Ama kaderin başka planları vardı. Garson acımasızca hayallerimi paramparça etti: burek sadece reklam panosunda mevcuttu, tabakta değil.

Hayal kırıklığına uğramış ama yenilmemiş bir şekilde, yemek seçimini eşim Bianca'ya bıraktım. Menüyü yoğun bir şekilde inceledikten sonra zaferle duyurdu: 'Bir kahvaltı tabağı!' diye düşündü. Gerçekte, 'kahvaltı tabağı' ızgaranın sunabileceği her şeyi sunan zengin bir ızgara tabağı çıktı. Peki, ne yapabilirsiniz? Sonra kahvaltıda öğle yemeği yedik. Ama itiraf etmeliyim ki: Bu bölgede şimdiye kadar sipariş ettiğimiz her şey gibi, bu da tek kelimeyle lezzetliydi. İyi beslenmiş ve yüzümüzde bir gülümsemeyle, sonunda Mostar'a doğru yola devam ettik.

Bir park yeri bulmak ve ilk izlenimler

Mostar ve park yeri - bu kendi başına bir hikaye. Ünlü köprünün etrafında park yerleri var, ancak yabancı plakalı, baskıcı görevlilerle ilgili hikayeler beni caydırmıştı. Bu yüzden güvenli seçeneği seçtik: bariyerli ve parkmetreli bir otopark. Ve işte, gerçek bir şans! Arabamızı saatte sadece 2 KM (yaklaşık 1 €'ya eşdeğer) karşılığında park edebildik. Hızlı bir ipucu: Yanınızda yeterli yerel para birimi getirin! Makineler yalnızca banknot ve bozuk para kabul ediyor (not: 5 KM bozuk para kabul edilmiyor) ve kartla ödeme yapmak yabancı bir kavram.

Park yerimizi güvence altına aldıktan sonra çarşıya ve köprüye doğru yola koyulduk. Mostar kesinlikle geçiş dönemindeki bir şehir. Her yerde inşaat, yenileme ve iyileştirme çalışmaları devam ediyor. Yaya bölgemizin ilk 200 metresi bizi yeni asfalt döşeme taşlarının döşendiği bir inşaat alanına götürdü. Yaya bölgesinin başındaki binalar komünist dönem ve Osmanlı mimarisinin heyecan verici bir karışımını sunuyordu. Çarşıya yaklaştıkça binalar tarihi açıdan daha da önemli hale geldi. Yanında Müslüman mezarları olan güzel bir caminin önünden geçtik. Mezar taşlarının çoğunun ölüm yılı olan 1993'ü taşıması dikkat çekiciydi. Cami halka açık ve avlu sizi etrafta dolaşmaya ve etrafı seyretmeye davet ediyor.

Çarşı Gezintisi ve Dondurma Stratejisi

Çarşıya vardığımızda, her zamanki turist dükkanları tarafından karşılandık, bir hediyelik kalbin arzulayabileceği her şeyi sunuyorlardı. Kimsenin bizi dükkanlara çekmeye veya bir şey satın almaya ikna etmeye çalışmaması bizi hoş bir şekilde şaşırttı. Burada turistler bir şey satın almak istiyorlarsa inisiyatifi kendileri almak zorundalar - çok hoş! Dondurmanın fiyatı da bize köprüye yaklaştığımızı gösteriyordu: Yaya bölgesinin başında bir kepçe dondurma 0,80 € idi, ancak köprüde zaten 1,50 € idi. Çarşıyı ve eski binaları gerçekten çok sevdik; her şey muhteşem bir şekilde sunulmuştu. Şehrin bir zamanlar ne kadar güzel olduğunu neredeyse hayal edebiliyordunuz. Her yerde avro ile ödeme yapabiliyorduk; sadece yerlilerin de alışveriş yaptığı normal dükkanlarda kart ödemeleri norm haline geldi.

Gül Yaprağı Limonatası ve Mimari Bir Başyapıt

Köprüden kısa bir süre önce, bir kafede kendimize ferahlatıcı bir içecek ısmarladık. Bianca Boşnak kahvesi sipariş etti ve ben de ev yapımı limonata istedim. Ne yazık ki yoktu, ancak gül yapraklarından yapılmış bir içecek vardı! 'Gerçek bir erkek' olarak, bu egzotik ikrama karşı koyamadım ve sipariş ettim. Ne diyebilirim? Tadı harikaydı! Bu arada, yoğun sezon dışında oradaydık ve hala oldukça kalabalıktı. Yoğun sezonda burada nasıl olduğunu hayal bile edemiyorum.

Kısa bir aradan sonra köprüye çıktık - kesinlikle mimari bir başyapıt! Oradan, Neretva Nehri'nin nefes kesici manzarasını gördük. Cesaretliler veya çılgınlar için, köprünün dibinde sürat teknesi turları sunuluyor, ancak biz reddettik.

Isı, Tarih ve Alışveriş

Köprüyü iyice hayranlıkla izledikten sonra klimalı araba geldi. Hava şimdi tam 35 santigrat dereceydi! Geri dönüş yolunda sokaklardaki turist sayısının azaldığını, ancak restoranların dolduğunu fark ettik. Arabaya giden yolun yarısında Savaş ve Soykırım Müzesi'nin önünden geçtik. Bianca gerçekten içeri girmek istiyordu. Kişi başı 10 avroya eşdeğer olan bu alanın giriş ücreti oldukça pahalıydı, ancak isterseniz... Müze hakkında yazmak veya rapor vermek istemiyorum. İsterseniz kendiniz görebilirsiniz. Daha sonra arabaya ve Bianca'nın zorunlu alışveriş programı olan LC Waikiki'ye doğru yola devam ettik.

Dinlenme ve Sonuç

Konaklama yerimize vardık beyler, serinlemek için hemen havuza atladım. Serinletici bir dalıştan sonra, sevimli ev sahibimiz Moni bize çok özel bir ikramda bulundu: ev yapımı baklava! Sadece aroması bile cennet gibiydi ve tadı karşı konulamazdı - gerçekten lezzetliydi!

Moni'ye bu nazik jesti ve günümüzü çok özel kılan tatlı ikramı için çok teşekkür ederiz! Akşamı konaklama yerimizin yanındaki restoranda sonlandırdık. Bir önceki gün çok beğendiğimiz için Mostar'daki son akşamımızı orada, nehrin kenarında geçirmeye karar verdik.

Mostar'ı özetlemem gerekirse: Kesinlikle görmelisiniz! Yarın Makedonya'ya doğru yola devam edeceğiz. Bizi izlemeye devam edin!

From Makarska to Mostar: A Journey Full of Surprises

After the last sip of wake-up coffee, we waved goodbye to Makarska and headed towards Mostar. We consciously chose the country road instead of the highway to see more of the landscape – after all, we had time until the key handover at 2 PM. And what can I say? We experienced more than we expected!

Even on the Croatian country road, things became really exciting: A greenish snake approximately 1.5 meters long was slowly slithering across the road. In Germany, it's hedgehogs; here it's snakes – an unusual but fascinating sight! Shortly after, I thought Croatia had recreated a miniature version of the Carpathians: The road wound down the mountain for miles, with some curves that could only be navigated at 20-30 km/h. A true adventure!

The closer we got to the Bosnian border, the bigger the potholes became and the more reckless the driving of other road users. I quickly adapted because being careful like the Germans won't get you far here. The border control between Croatia and Bosnia was surprisingly smooth, and the customs officers were notably friendly.

Arrival in Mostar: A City Full of Contrasts

The last kilometers before Mostar were particularly beautiful. Coming down from the mountain, we had a stunning view of the city sprawling below us. The drive through Mostar to our accommodation was surprising. I was amazed at how many beautifully landscaped parks there were, and how modern new buildings harmoniously nestled against charming old ones. Of course, there were also some ruins – whether they were war relics or simply abandoned to decay, I couldn't tell.

A Culinary Highlight by the Buna River

The next pleasant surprise awaited us right upon our arrival at the accommodation. Since we arrived about two and a half hours early, we decided to take a seat at the adjacent restaurant. The location was fantastic, right by the Buna River! And since we were really hungry, we ordered a Balkan platter, fitting for our Balkan trip. What can I say? That was the absolutely best decision! Taste-wise it was unmatched, the meat perfectly grilled and superbly seasoned. We were stuffed, but I absolutely had to order a baklava and two Bosnian moccas! Unfortunately, the baklava didn't fully convince me – I prefer the Turkish one. But the mocha was on par with the Turkish one! To remain objective, I must give the Bosnian baklava another chance... I will have to sacrifice myself tomorrow and try it again!

During this feast, the two and a half hours flew by, and we almost arrived late for the key handover, even though the apartment was directly across the street. The bill for the meal including drinks (homemade lemonade!) was a remarkable 42 Euros. Just the ambiance would have been worth that price!

Our Dream Accommodation and a Well-Deserved Dip in Cool Water

For the key handover, Moni, a nice older lady who lives in the neighboring building and has worked in Germany for 50 years, came to meet us. Communication was therefore no problem at all. She showed us our vacation apartment and explained everything. Meanwhile, we had a lovely chat with her. The apartment is beautifully and modernly furnished, with a fully equipped kitchen and a bathroom featuring a shower, bathtub, and jacuzzi function! And the balcony! Not a small seating area, but a huge balcony – the photos speak volumes.

What did we, of course, do right after bringing our things to the car? With 29 degrees Celsius and a pool? Right: We jumped right in! I still can't believe that we only have to pay 72 Euros for this dream apartment for two nights and two people. Sometimes you just have to be lucky!

Now, after this eventful and beautiful day, I sit here writing this report while my lovely wife Bianca is doing her fitness training – she just can't help it! 😉 Let's see what tomorrow brings in Mostar. Stay tuned and read tomorrow about everything we experienced in Mostar!

Türkce

From Makarska to Mostar: A Journey Full of Surprises

After the last sip of waking coffee, we said goodbye to Makarska and set off for Mostar. We deliberately chose a country road to see more of the countryside instead of the highway - after all, we had time until the key handover at 2:00 PM. And what can I say? We experienced more than we expected!

Things got really exciting right from the Croatian countryside: A greenish snake about 1.5 meters long was slowly sliding across the road. In Germany, it's hedgehogs; here it's snakes - an unusual but fascinating sight! Soon after, I thought Croatia had created a miniature version of the Carpathians: The road wound down the mountain for miles, with some curves that could only be taken at 20-30 km/h. A true adventure!

As we approached the Bosnian border, the potholes grew larger and other drivers got increasingly reckless. I quickly adapted because being cautious like a German doesn't get you very far here. The border control between Croatia and Bosnia went surprisingly smoothly, and the customs officers were very friendly.

Arrival in Mostar: A City Full of Contrasts

The last few kilometers before Mostar were particularly beautiful. Coming down from the mountain, we had a fantastic view of the city sprawling below us. The journey through Mostar to our accommodation was surprising. I was astonished at how many beautifully arranged parks there were, and how modern new buildings harmoniously nestled alongside charming old buildings. Of course, there are a few ruins – whether war relics or simply abandoned to decay, I couldn’t tell.

A Culinary Highlight on the Buna River

Upon our arrival at the accommodation, a next pleasant surprise was waiting for us. Since we arrived about two and a half hours early, we decided to sit at the adjacent restaurant. The location was fantastic, right by the bank of the Buna River! And since we were already very hungry, we ordered a Balkan platter, fitting for our Balkan trip. What can I say? That was absolutely the best decision! Taste-wise it was unbeatable, the meat perfectly grilled and wonderfully seasoned. We were stuffed, but I definitely had to order one baklava and two Bosnian moccas. Unfortunately, the baklava didn't convince me much – I prefer the Turkish one. But the mocha was just as good as the Turkish one! To remain objective, I will have to give the Bosnian baklava a second chance... I will have to sacrifice myself tomorrow and try again!

During this feast, the two and a half hours flew by, and even though the apartment was right in front of us, we almost arrived late for the key handover. The bill for the meal, including drinks (homemade lemonade!) came to a remarkable 42 Euros. Just the atmosphere alone would have been worth that price!

Our Dream Accommodation and a Well-Deserved Dive into Refreshing Water

For the key handover, Moni, a nice elderly lady who lives in the next building and has worked in Germany for 50 years, came to meet us. So communication was not a problem at all. She showed us our vacation apartment and explained everything. We also had a lovely chat with her. The apartment is beautifully furnished and modern, with a fully equipped kitchen and a bathroom with a shower, bath, and jacuzzi function! And the balcony! Not a small seating area, but a huge balcony – the photos tell a thousand words.

What did we naturally do immediately after bringing our things to the car? With 29 degrees Celsius and a pool? That's right: We jumped right in! I still can't believe we only have to pay 72 Euros for this dream apartment for two nights and two people. Sometimes you just have to be lucky!

Now, after this eventful and wonderful day, I’m sitting here writing this report while my lovely wife Bianca is doing her fitness training – she just can't help it! 😉 Let's see what tomorrow brings in Mostar. Stay tuned and read tomorrow about everything we experienced in Mostar!

Sarajevo, my last stop in Bosnia and Herzegovina. At the train station in Mostar, I was again grateful to be living in such modern times. The lady at the ticket counter couldn't speak English, so I simply had Google translate my request into Bosnian. But I haven't met such unfriendly people at the station in a long time. The train was also incredibly full, as there are only two trains a day between Mostar and Sarajevo, one in the morning and one in the late afternoon.

Upon arriving in Sarajevo, my first impression was that it is similar to Mostar. Very multicultural with several religions living together in one city. Here, each is more clearly defined from one another, but more on that later.

Arriving in the afternoon, I first made friends with the other people in my hostel room, and we immediately went out for dinner together in the evening and took a small walk through the old town.

The next morning, the four of us went on a free walking tour.

Sarajevo is divided into two distinctly different architectural parts. One is the Oriental/Ottoman part, and the other is the Austro-Hungarian part of the city. This can be clearly seen in the differing architecture.

Our first stop was a mosque (of course, in the oriental part of the city).

Directly opposite is the first school that this city had and still has. It was founded in 1537 and was known beyond the city limits in earlier times. Even today, students learn here.

Then, of course, there is also a bazaar with many food shops, carpets, and a lot of copperware.

At the end of the tour, I went to eat with my hostel buddies and had Turkish tea and coffee.

After that, I had a little time for myself and walked through the city looking for nice postcards. Along the way, I found this artist who had painted all the pictures himself and then printed them on postcards, among other things.

My further journey then took me from the oriental side over to the Austro-Hungarian side.

This type of building feels a bit familiar and reminds me a lot of our old-style buildings. Besides the architecture, I also absorbed the city life and felt a little homesick at one or another corner.

I ended the day with a walk up a hill for the obligatory view of the city.

The first stop was the Kravica Waterfalls. Thanks to a discount from our tour guide, we were able to enjoy the waterfalls at a significantly reduced price.

The area wasn't as large as the Plitvice Lakes, but it was still very impressive.

What was unique here was swimming in a waterfall. I had never done that before, and it was definitely an experience. The water was quite cool, but I managed to swim a few laps back and forth.

The next stop was an old ruin. A long time ago, this was the Villa Mogorjelo.

Here we learned more about the history of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Our tour guide emphasized that we must always mention Herzegovina, as people usually only talk about Bosnia, and that part often gets overlooked. Essentially, Bosnia is the northern part of the country, and Herzegovina is the southern part. Therefore, Mostar is in Herzegovina and is one of the largest cities there.

Next, we moved on to the Počitelj Castle. This place is very famous.

There, we first visited a very old bathhouse for women.

I have seen many viewpoints by now, but this one was definitely the most beautiful of all.

And then we went back down, and I have to say, I am always glad to meet nice fellow travelers in the hostel with whom to share these experiences. You probably never see each other again, but the memories will always be shared.

The next stop was a river. To be honest, I forgot why it was special, but in combination with the surrounding landscape, it was worth stopping.

Our penultimate stop was Blagaj Tekke.

This place is especially known for its spring that springs inside the cave and the super clear water. You can drink directly from the river here.

But also the house that stands directly on the water. Originally a dervish monastery, the mosque is now a museum and can be visited.

As the sun set, we headed to our last stop of the day. By car, we drove up to the Forticia mountain. From there, you could observe a beautiful view of Mostar and the sunset over the mountains.

I believe this trip and the extension of my stay in Mostar was truly worthwhile. With this one trip, I was able to learn so much more about the country and discover places that I would not have reached by car.

In the morning, we splash around once more in the crystal-clear waters of the Karst river Mreznica. This wonderful river landscape was a very pleasant surprise that we didn't expect.

The drive through northern Croatia teaches us how lush nature is here. The leaves of the trees already show signs of having been battered by the summer heat, but the nature here leaves a very healthy overall impression.

The highway takes us quickly to the south.

At the tributary to the 'Novigradsko more', we take a break beneath a bungee jumping bridge and cool off in the deep blue sea water at an air temperature of 30 degrees.

We continue on the highway. The stretch above Makarska offers a lot for the eyes.

The border crossing into Bosnia and Herzegovina takes place in a small village, on the way to the Kravica waterfalls. The campsite there is wonderfully located right by the river just below the falls. However, the last few hundred meters of the approach aren't suitable for large vehicles. Here we finally jump into the water for the third time. However, the water here is noticeably fresher!

Off the main road and after a good amount of winding, we are surprised by the size - the restaurant serves up to 800 guests daily! (Ari actually thought she had discovered a mega insider tip..)

Nevertheless, everything seems very pleasant. Camping is free next to huge blackberry hedges (from which you can try a lot), the many employees are very professional, helpful, and friendly. Everything is beautifully laid out, with great views, very green, and the waiting coffee is on the house (no free seats in the restaurant).

In the afternoon, we eat the appetizers of the 3-course menu. Everyone receives a complimentary rosewater aperitif, yes, even Heidi 😁

We are thrilled and stuffed. We arrive for dinner an hour late 😅 The food is somewhat disappointing now, but thanks to the outdoor atmosphere in the evening light and the live music on piano and violin by two young guys, it still turns into a very nice evening (=

Successful last stop in Albania!

We had chosen a campsite at a lake in Montenegro after the next stage on the way home.

The extreme heat and lack of shade make us continue to drive to a campsite where we already stayed on the way down.

It was raining then, I remembered it rather mediocre, but there was enough shade and an ice-cold river. At 35 degrees, it suddenly becomes quite excellent 😁

And finally, there are Pekara and chocolate croissants at a bargain price again 🥐😍

Another successful last stop in Montenegro!

After spending the first half of the day diligently at the river in Montenegro (it's 40 degrees these days 🙄), we drove through the midday heat to arrive in Mostar, our first stop in Bosnia & Herzegovina in the evening.

At 43 degrees at half past five in the evening, we buy another carpet, two scarves (why not 🤷‍♂️) - so we've seen the bazaar. Just like the famous old bridge and bullet holes in buildings everywhere. Once again, you are casually reminded of the conflict from back then, unprepared. And once again, I am reminded of how little I know about this part of Europe.

Due to the heat, we sleep in Blagaj outside the city to visit a beautifully located monastery in the morning.

Nice side effect, the river cools the area down significantly and we can enjoy a beer in the cool river in the evening 😍. Welcome to Bosnia and Herzegovina!

The best comes at the end...

Actually, Sarajevo has been high on the wish list since the beginning of the trip. On the way back, a few were already planned for this reason.

I have already heard a lot about the city, now it was finally time for me to see it for myself.

After a long, relaxed overland drive, I suddenly found myself in the middle of Sarajevo. Baaam, traffic x1000, people everywhere, excitement, joy, full concentration, curiosity, overwhelm... Emotional state as chaotic as the traffic.

My plan was to drive up to the Trebevic mountain to be able to stand there quietly outside the city. There are some paid parking spaces in the center, but they are not among my preferred places. There is also a campsite. It is also located a bit higher up on the Trebevic mountain.

After a long drive and crazy city traffic, my nerves were already a bit strained, so the drive to this f***** mountain became a complete catastrophe. My navigation system repeatedly led me into the smallest, narrowest streets, where it was also steep uphill. I have no idea how many times I tried and how many times there was oncoming traffic, I had to reverse or turn around on the steep slope, with brakes that sometimes didn't hold properly. Poor Bürsti. Scratching the underbody, spinning tires, and a clutch that stank. The attempt to somehow get up the mountain also really strained him.

I was on the verge of leaving Sarajevo immediately. Mental breakdown.

With the goal of only staying at free places, I have always made it a bit harder for myself than maybe necessary.

Now almost anything was acceptable to save this day somehow.

The green, quiet parking space at the other end of the city was then my island after wandering around aimlessly on the open sea for hours.

From here, it was about 13km to the city center. The route was flat and mostly a proper bike path. So perfect to ride into the city - of course not on the same evening.

But on the next morning, to a free walking tour, which I had signed up for online the night before.

A great route to immerse oneself in the life of the city.

The tours by Neno and Friends bypass the public sights and instead delve deep into the history of the city and its inhabitants through many personal anecdotes. At many stops, it becomes clear how present the war and the siege still are for the people in Sarajevo.

In the Bosnian War from 1992-1995, Sarajevo became a symbol of the destructive power of nationalist madness.

During the longest siege of a city in this century by the Serbs, the war and destruction cost over 11,000 residents their lives.

To this day, countless damaged buildings testify to the disaster that the people have not yet overcome, despite the slow recovery. It is a mixture of optimism and persistent trauma that characterizes the city and that also becomes noticeable for tourists.

The old town has a special charm with its buildings, influenced by Ottoman Oriental architecture. Inviting cafés, craft shops, and stylish souvenir shops line up here. The cityscape is also marked by several impressive buildings from the Austro-Hungarian period. History wherever you look.

Religion and faith naturally also play a decisive role, then as now. So here you can see many mosques, Orthodox churches, and also a synagogue.

There is so much to report about history, religion, and politics that entire libraries are probably filled with it.

Overall, I spent three days here and I am impressed. The city has an incomparable character, its own vibe that has attracted and impressed me. There is a lot to discover and you are warmly welcomed as a guest.

On the last day, I finally made it to Trebenic. From the other side of the city, where the parking space was located, there is a normal road that leads up.

Throughout the mountain, there are other sights and activities that are especially popular with visitors. For example, the Olympic bobsleigh and luge track, which was built for the 1984 Winter Olympics. Nowadays, it is particularly popular with graffiti artists and mountain bikers.

To delve a bit more into the extensive history, I also visited the Historical Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina. However, it was not particularly informative and spectacular.

But I found something again in one of the second-hand shops after a long time. In the end, another big plus point for the city.

TANJA:

Already on the approach, which is described as one of the most beautiful train rides in Europe, we are surprised: Andrea, a Czech who has been living in Vienna for 5 years and whom we last met on our hike in Sarajevo, meets us when we disembark and we spontaneously agree to meet in the evening. Mostar's old town greets us with a lot of people and oriental vibes. Here, too, there is a 28m high very old bridge in the center, to which a whole museum is dedicated. Again and again, men in bathing trunks walk with determined looks towards the bridge and then lie around on the railing for a long time to collect money so that they can jump after all. For 50 Eur, you can even train yourself with 6 trial jumps for the big bridge jump, which of course an American traveler couldn't miss.

Together with Andrea, we conquer the tower side of the river and go swimming naked in the river in the evening, hoping that no one sees us as it is too Muslim....

Unfortunately, Andrea has already decided that all of this is too busy for her and leaves for Neum, the only Bosnian town with access to the sea, the next day.

Instead, we treat ourselves to a luxury room with AC, kitchen, and private bathroom for a still reasonable 17 euros per person per night.

MARKUS:

Second day Mostar: round trip to (once again) old villages, towers, and beautiful waterfalls in Kravica, which, however, remind me more of Disneyland, as they are so full of colorful inflatable tourism. We move away, follow the course of the river and find a great bathing spot with natural slides and pools a few hundred meters away, where we spend the afternoon and meet Catherine, an Australian traveler who has been on the road for 5 months and provides Tanja with some valuable tips for the further journey. Always exciting to experience how traveling makes people increasingly silent, determined, and clear, which is especially visible in their eyes. This is how Catherine appears to me, at least.

Next stop: Dubrovnik and Ulcinj.

MARKUS:

In Adam's Hitchhiker's Guide, it says about planet Earth: 'largely harmless'. That is pretty much the most accurate description I can think of for this small, predominantly Muslim city.

At least the muezzin calls punctually and very motivatedly, there is a really beautiful bridge guarded on both sides by stray dogs, and our accommodation is incredibly cheap.

MARKUS:

We skip Croatia with a somewhat uncomfortable overnight bus tour and head directly to the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

It's difficult to do justice to this city in a short text...

With its narrow streets, where mosques, coffee shops, restaurants, craftsmen, and the obligatory tourist junk shops are crowded together, Sarajevo's old town is more reminiscent of Morocco than a European city, especially at night when people seem to squeeze through the streets.

Outside the old town, in addition to remnants of the Habsburg era and modern buildings of the international finance sector, one encounters the sad memories of the war: bullet holes on every other facade, and the strange feeling that creeps over me that every other adult face I encounter might have experienced the almost three-year siege of Sarajevo. The red stains scattered throughout the city, embedded in the ground, are just another reminder of it.

BIH is still relatively strictly divided ethnically. Although everyone is united under the same nationality, if you want to work in the public service, you have to choose an ethnic and therefore religious affiliation. Spatially, too, the groups have been clearly separated since the 1990s. Once again, I am so grateful to have grown up in a somewhat secular state.

On the second day, we leave the urban area and climb the highest mountain in the surrounding area. Instead of taking the cable car, we hike almost 4 hours constantly uphill. 1100 meters of altitude with gradients of up to 40% are challenging, but they make us even happier upon arrival, although only encountering head-shaking bewilderment from the locals.

TANJA:

Small addition: How easy it is to meet new people from the most diverse countries over and over again: Our dinner table consisted of a Newfoundlander, a Northern Irish, and an Indian.

Oh, and it was a really strange feeling to walk through a bobsleigh track from the 1984 Winter Olympics in the middle of the forest in the mountains😉

And by now, we have already managed to lose an inflatable pillow, a towel, a charger cable, a shampoo, and a pair of shorts....we need to improve on that😂

Thanks to the meteorologically accurate satellite images on the internet and the phone call with our Bosnian friends from Germany, we set off to the 'Una National Park' in Bosnia ('Una' is the river there). Rain, rain, and more rain were forecasted on the Croatian coast. The hope for dry weather drove us away. For the first time, we had to wait at the border and show our passports and car papers. With a first 'havala' (thank you), we once again went to the next gas station to get SIM cards and exchange Croatian 'Kuna' to Bosnian 'Mark'. In pouring rain, we arrived at the waterfalls in northern Bosnia. During the drive along the Una River, we were amazed. The Una River has a particularly striking turquoise color, and there were signs for wolves along the way. Bears also live in the national park, but unfortunately, we didn't get to meet either of them.

After visiting the waterfall and seeing the crazy rafting group, with 9 men jumping down a 4-5 meter waterfall in an 'inflatable boat', we bought the most expensive honey of our lives against our own arrangements. On the drive into the country, we saw many small stands selling local honey. To try something typical of the country, we naturally wanted to buy something there and agreed to do it on the roadside and not at the 'sightseeing tour point' where it costs at least three times as much. But they were just so nice there at the waterfall ^^ In the end, we set off to the next campground slightly shocked with 2 jars of honey for 40 euros. At least we learned that this was a very special honey from the queen bee (I think they mean 'royal jelly'). We were supposed to take half a teaspoon every day, and it should last for about a year (maybe with a tiny teaspoon and only one person). Well, the fact reassured us that we would stay healthy at least until the jar is empty 😊

The first campground in Bosnia was great. Despite the rain, we felt very comfortable there. It was right by the river, and Ado and his wife warmly welcomed us and later cooked us a delicious meal (vegetarian for me, with an incomprehensible smile). And of course, as would happen from now on more often, there was at least one schnapps that warmed (almost) everyone up as a welcome. We met many new people and befriended a French family who finally had children with them. We went hiking with them (another waterfall), went to a restaurant, and after a few days, continued to the south of Bosnia. It was great to see the children playing so wonderfully together, despite not understanding a word of each other. Felix once said to me, 'You know, Mama, sometimes I just say yes and sometimes no, and then I just go along.'

In southern Bosnia, we wanted to stay at a lake, which was unfortunately more than half dried up. It was great for playing, but unfortunately not for swimming. When we tried to get to the water, we sank so deep into the muddy mud that we almost couldn't get out. So our plans for a stand-up paddleboarding tour to the little island in the middle of the lake didn't work out either. On the second evening, a thunderstorm came from the mountains behind us with incredible speed, something we had never experienced before. Since we were standing right in front of the sloping shore of the lake and facing the storm side, we had to move the motorhome within a few minutes. In the momentary panic, I accidentally drove over our cable drum. Why is it always me??? First the tree in France, then the dining table in Slovenia, and now I destroy the 'umbilical cord of electronics'. At least it survived the mistreatment. Later we found an empty new drum at a campsite in Montenegro, and I finally replaced it in Albania. It even has a residual-current device (RCD) and everything. A woman's got to do it herself 😊 My dearest husband repaired the couch leg at the dining table, so we're fully operational again!!! The storm was over after a maximum of 15-20 minutes, and the sun came out... Impressive experience. This is probably what happens to hikers or those in the mountains when they say, '...they were surprised by a thunderstorm...!!!'

Every country also includes visiting a beautiful city. With two motorhomes in a mini convoy, we continued to 'Mostar'. Upon arriving at a guarded parking lot in the middle of the city, we were immediately shown the tradition with which the half-naked young men earn some extra money. In the beautiful old town of Mostar, there is a 19-meter-high bridge that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This bridge connects the predominantly Muslim district with the predominantly Catholic district and is the symbol of the city. Young men demonstrate their courage by jumping from the bridge into the icy river (nowadays after being paid by tourists, around 40-50 euros).

After visiting the city and having a few more 'Cevapcici' for dinner with our French friends, our paths separated again the next day. Unfortunately, they only had 2 months to travel, so they had to move faster than us. I hope we see them again someday. Thank you Marie and Etien for the wonderful days!!!

Our conclusion:

We liked Bosnia very, very much. The drive from north to south through the high plain was beautiful and sad at the same time. We saw entire ghost towns along with countless abandoned houses as a result of the war, which made us pensive. At the same time, the nature was so impressive with the rocky meadows and the vastness of the high plain. After the Croatian cliffs and high mountains, it just felt good and liberating. I could have driven for hours more.

It's great that we ended up in this country unexpectedly!!!

Next stop: MONTENEGRO