Get out of the city, into nature - that was the plan. But plans often have a life of their own 😊.

So first of all, take the bus out of Lviv. The bus station is the new hub for Ukrainians fleeing to Germany and the West because Flixbus and Co. can take them faster and more uncomplicatedly across multiple borders than the train. The sight of the huge suitcases, the patient children, and the often extremely chic and tired-looking women always gives me goosebumps.

The first act at the bus station almost went wrong because our bus almost left without us (who relies on the information that platform four is the right one 😊). Luckily, we recognized the right bus just in time and were able to run after it. A barrier, a nice bus driver, and we were still inside, to drive about two hours south into the Carpathians. On the way, we quickly organized the train ticket for the onward journey in a few days (okay, that took longer, ended up in two tickets for the same train because even the super nice ticket office clerk couldn't book the entire route continuously and afterwards, we knew all the places on the Romanian border with a train station).

Arriving in the new nature paradise, the Skole Beskids National Park, we realized that we are still at the beginning of collecting experiences because we had a lovely hostel in a beautiful mountain landscape, but right next to the transit road Kiev-Hungary with really many trucks. Well, experience and who needs sleep at night - we have rest areas on the road that unexpectedly provided us with luxurious catering.

The next day we headed into the mountains, and that's not a matter of course here because there are very few hiking trails, but we made sure that this village (Korostiv) also offers a fantastic hiking route, so we were able to enjoy about 25 km uphill, over the ridge, and back down. The plants, the blueberries, the view - MEGA!!! And we were also lucky with the weather because we almost completely circumvented the heavy rain and only had to unpack the rain cape briefly.

After another day in the valley and with some routine to cross, walk along and endure the transit road, we continued towards the Romanian border with the previously organized tickets on the night train at 3:27 a.m.

There we treated ourselves to a day in the salt bath because, surprisingly, we ended up in a spa town again - this time the Ukrainian Solotvyno. After that, we crossed the Theiss River into Romania on foot...

Kathleen

The city, the region, and the country are difficult to understand. There is war and there is celebration, there is a lot of hopelessness and the streets are full of colorful life, the military cemetery grows daily and has long been expanded to a large area outside the actual area, and young people happily enroll in studies, the breakfast bistro offers delicious croissants, and the emergency power supply stands ready in the corner as a matter of course.

We have been to the region several times, this time with time, just the two of us and only with two small missions. We wanted to see Dima, our dear interpreter who fled from the east, a teacher and now an online language teacher for women learning German. And we wanted to advance the handicapped accessible expansion of a container accommodation with funds from Saxony.

With Dima, it was as always exuberant, but also critical. We can speak very openly with him and he takes us into the Ukrainian soul, explaining a lot to us. The patriotism or nationalism in Ukraine is understandable to us, but very alien. The lack of openness to other opinions and other paths is dangerous. A free Ukraine needs not only integration into Europe in the economic sense, but also a strong civil society. It needs to start growing now.

The inclusion action in the container village was primarily an exercise in patience at the hardware store. If you want to experience bureaucracy, you can do so here between cable drums and faucets. 😊

The facility for displaced people accommodates up to 1,300 women, men, and children from the destroyed areas in the east. Many of them have disabilities. Therefore, it is necessary to retrofit the sanitary containers so that people in wheelchairs can also use them. We received funding from Saxony for one facility (thanks to the state government), and so we started buying everything necessary at the hardware store - almost everything was on the delivery lists four hours later, and we were relieved to be able to leave the hardware store (with four blocked Visa cards because our banks found the payments suspicious, but we were able to clarify that shortly after). The reconstruction is being done by the people in the container village and the employees themselves. We are eagerly awaiting the pictures. However, we are convinced that the construction measures will not only be completed soon but also produce satisfactory results, just like the entire facility (and others we have visited in the past), which is well maintained, well organized, and solid.

Lviv, the second look - an impressive city with many young people, with great strength and a strong will to persevere - BUT also with a heaviness, a feeling of exhaustion, and an apprehensive look into the future.

We continue our journey to the Carpathians...

Kathleen

Ukraine has probably never been a real tourist destination and at the moment it is definitely not. However, when I was a teenager, I was already here in the vicinity, in Volodymyr-Volynskyi. At that time, the Erzgebirge Diaconie, together with other local actors, supported an orphanage, a hospital, and the fire brigade in the village. As a thank you, one school class per year was able to travel to Ukraine for two weeks.

Through these experiences, I experienced the 24th of February 2022, when the Russian army invaded large parts of Ukraine, probably differently than many Central and Western Europeans. Not only was there suddenly war in Europe, I knew the landscapes from TV pictures, the warmth of the people, and the great hospitality with which they welcomed strangers. So it didn't take long for us to arrive at the Polish-Ukrainian border for the first time with relief supplies. Shortly afterwards, the first entry stamp in my passport is from March 18, 2022, we were also in Lwiw - with two vans packed with medical supplies, medicines, and other things that were urgently needed.

Back then, it was a city in a state of emergency: filled with refugees from the east, a hub for traffic to the west, and yet you could tell that it is a cultural center. Just as the Ukrainians often preserved their pride on the run with only a few belongings, this city also preserved its pride and character. At that time, we agreed that we would love to come back here in peace to get to know the city with the necessary time.

Now the time had come, even though this time we also have donation money with us to convert sanitary facilities for refugees from the east into disabled-friendly ones.

The journey there was typically Ukrainian and pragmatic. By train from Košice (Slovakia) across the border to Mukacheve, where we were properly shaken. After that, we just barely made the connection to Lwiw, but without time to buy a ticket or exchange money. The train conductor asked us in perfect English to just sit down somewhere, she would find a solution. Gradually, the train became really crowded and in Ukraine, tickets are only sold together with seat reservations. However, the train conductor did not want to let us sit on the floor, despite our assurances that sitting on our backpacks is comfortable (in fact, more comfortable than on the proper seats), and she always found vacant seats for us. Shortly before Lwiw, we were allowed to pay for our tickets after all, as we did not yet have Hryvnia, a 10 euro bill changed hands, and everyone was happy - we arrived in Lwiw earlier than planned, and the train conductor's kindness paid off for her (of course, we won't tell her employer about it).

The city itself impresses with its Austro-Hungarian architecture in the old town, many museums, and even more churches and monasteries ranging from Roman Catholic to Greek Orthodox to Ukrainian Orthodox. There are parks everywhere that invite you to linger. If it weren't for the cellar windows of many public buildings being secured with sandbags, church windows being boarded up with planks and metal sheets, or sculptures being protected with iron cages against flying debris, you could forget that this country is at war. Nevertheless, we took a day to explore the beautiful sides of Lwiw and immerse ourselves in the soul of the city.

More about what else we did here in the next post.

Robert

On seadays, of course, you try to get some movement on board.

This morning we had Pilates on the swaying ship, not for people inclined to seasickness.

Otherwise, there is also a walking route and many sports and dance classes.

So plenty of variety for the 35000 nautical miles we will cover.

The last week at home was nerve-wracking. There were so many things in my mind that I had to think about, and there were even more things that I had to take care of. After only getting about 4 hours of sleep each night, if I was lucky, from Friday to Wednesday morning because I was constantly surrounded by people who are important to me and who are important to me, I was looking forward to the 13-hour flight even more. Just to replenish my sleep. There was no thought of sleep on the night from Tuesday to Wednesday due to excitement. And besides, the wine tasted way too good again. A decision that I would later regret.

Once arrived at the airport in Frankfurt, it was time to say goodbye again. My first flight went to Kiev, Ukraine. Luckily, the plane was not completely full, so I could move from my aisle seat to the window seat. As soon as the plane was in the air, my eyes closed. Two hours of deep sleep. Hangover deep sleep to be precise.

Kiev. July 17th. 18:55 local time.
The first leg is done. I managed to transfer. I can hardly breathe. I have a knot the size of a melon in my throat. I am now sitting on the plane to Bangkok after I ran across the entire airport. The time difference has caused panic. In Kiev, they are one hour ahead of us, did you know that? I didn't. Naturally, I didn't think at first that my phone would adjust automatically. As I woke up from my deep sleep, I thought I still had 25 minutes left to catch my connecting flight. Additionally, we started with a half hour delay in Frankfurt, which turned a relaxed one and a half hour layover into a pretty stressful matter (if you can't read the clock properly). I briefly thought that I didn't even have time to go to the bathroom. Then my connecting flight naturally starts from the completely other end of the gates. Hectic. I didn't even dare to quickly go for a smoke because I would have had to walk in the other direction to get to the smoking area. So my frantic, first-time-on-my-own self decided that since the flight lasted a total of 13 hours, I didn't necessarily have to smoke. Let's see when I will regret this hasty decision. Now I'm sitting in a Boeing 767-300. There are still about 10 other people in the entire plane. Because according to the schedule, it will only depart in 45 minutes. Well, to look at the positive side, at least I had a free choice when it comes to storing my carry-on luggage. I'm sitting in row 25. In the aisle. In the middle seat. So basically, exactly in the middle of this huge plane that has seen better days. Around me, about a 12-person Thai family gathers from both aisles and starts discussing wildly over my head. Can you imagine my facial expression? I should have thought about getting something to eat quickly during my layover instead of worrying about my unsmoked cigarette. At what point during a 10 and a half hour flight will you see the first meal? While my thoughts wander again, the Thai father starts pointing to the surrounding available seats. The decisive point for the very lively discussion of the entire family was that I am sitting right in the middle of this almost decaying aircraft, thus separating his family in two. I quickly exchanged the center seat for the son's seat on the aisle. I'm happy not to be in the center of attention anymore. or in the middle of anything at all. My stomach grumbles. The plane is supposed to take off in 10 minutes. Slowly, the seats around me fill up with backpacking couples. Strained faces, probably just as clueless as I am, but blaming their travel partner in annoyance. At the moment, I'm glad I don't have to argue with 12 family members or anyone else. I take off my shoes and sit contentedly in a cross-legged position on my newly acquired aisle seat. Where are my headphones?

somewhere over the Black Sea? 9:42 p.m. Probably still Kiev local time.
The plane is probably already far beyond the Black Sea. At least I hope so. But that was the last thing you could recognize on the screens above these many heads here before Bohemian Rapsody started playing. Good movie. What wasn't so good was the food. I should have answered the flight attendant's question 'Chicken or vegetables with rice?' with 'vegetables' instead, because what was announced as chicken was more like the sole of a shoe. To be honest, I have no idea what part of it was supposed to be the chicken. Was it the yellowish compressed disk or the gray couscous/rice-like mush? Or was it chicken disguised as broccoli? Who knows? Because that definitely didn't taste like broccoli usually does. Be that as it may, I have no idea where I am right now, let alone what time it actually is. I only know that I still have a damn long time to sit on my ass and I'm considering if it's acceptable to smoke in the airplane bathroom these days? What would I do for a cigarette after this wonderful meal

Upon landing in Bangkok, I slowly feel how exhausted I am. The flight was super exhausting. Two rows behind me, there was a whining child with incredible stamina, and the guy next to me managed to sleep the entire flight and even claimed half of my seat. 🙄 The airport in Bangkok is incredibly huge and every square meter is occupied by at least one person. The passport control took another hour because of overcrowding. I quickly exchanged some money and then took a one-hour ride to the city center in an old school bus shuttle. Where is my hostel?

I ultimately chose the sea so that my swimming trunks can see some light. I rode through Transnistria again, on endless walnut alleys and through huge, unfortunately not yet blooming, sunflower fields, towards Odessa, the easternmost point and the turning point of my journey to Satoka. From now on, it's back westward. Oh yeah, my toll receipt from yesterday is still valid today and the customs clearance was much more relaxed today. When leaving, the machine had to be presented. Marka? Kubik? Windscreen fine? 👍🏻 Nodding Xaxascho.

However, the day didn't start well. I left my provisions in the refrigerator, burned the good Dynamoland patch on the manifold, almost skidded off at 100 km/h in a rut, just barely held on to the bike, the tires were already scraping sideways and I was already leaning over the road while the Guzzi kept going straight. Then the entire speedometer failed, no speed, which is not so tragic, but also the odometers are dead, from now on there is no information about the distance traveled and I have no orientation for the fuel tank, I just have to trust the lamp or the feeling. At first, I thought the speedometer cable had broken, but it turned out that a part (a worm gear) had flown out of the sensor, so the road and the shaking did take their toll after all.

Well, I was a bit annoyed and didn't feel like staying in Odessa, so I just drove through. The Russian cities are also becoming increasingly boring with their crazy traffic, so I went to Satoka, where I am staying with Elena today. Very nice property. 5 minutes to the beach, which I headed straight to, to let off some steam in the water 🏝️

Tomorrow, I will head back to the EU 🇪🇺 Romania is waiting for me.

Today woke up from the sweaty bed, showered, drank half a bottle of water, and jumped into the even sweatier clothes and off we go. Unfortunately, no breakfast or coffee. Forgot to take a starting picture and almost lost the tank bag. Scratched the bike and made a small crack in the fairing from the vibration. Other than that, everything went smoothly.

Quickly filled the Guzzste with 'Mustang', that's what they call premium fuel here, and then got lost. I was actually headed to Ivano Frankivst and must have taken a wrong turn, so I ended up in Ternopil. Until then, I thought it was a good choice, great asphalt and hardly any traffic. But then...

The quasi bypass was already full of sinkhole-sized potholes. And it was going to continue like this for the next 101km, or more. That meant working today. Despite everything, I wanted to keep moving forward, so I tried to handle it with speeds of around 90-110km/h and lots of evasive maneuvers. It mostly worked, except for three bumps in the suspension. Then I had to turn the rear shock absorber 3 notches harder and off I went. It's crazy, I still got overtaken every now and then. To top it all off, something stung me in the face because I usually ride with my visor open for better visibility. I kept on riding, hoping it wasn't a wasp 🐝. I would have noticed in 15 minutes at the latest, and there would have been enough time to stop and pass out ☠️.

Well, today the 300km went by quickly, and I arrived in Czernowitz at 2 o'clock. Nice room, huge bed, garden, and breakfast tomorrow. 😋

Yesterday the capital of Galicia, today the capital of Bukovina, Czernowitz, also known as the city of dead poets, was apparently even more of a melting pot of cultures than Lviv. Many nationalities used to live here side by side, which can be seen especially in the many churches of various denominations. The architectural style is again grandiose from the turn of the century, very little Soviet, just like Lviv, but smaller. A short walk and central market, and then it's time to eat.

After a day without food, I had to replenish myself. Borscht and fried strips of beef with grilled vegetables in polenta on top of sheep cheese shavings. It's noticeable that my right hand has no feeling and no strength. Holding a fork is difficult, but I can still handle a beer. 🍺

Day of Tongue Twisters, I already have difficulty writing, whoever speaks it flawlessly on the spot gets a little bee 🐝

After a good breakfast, I started again at 8:40 am and continued eastward. I could have taken the highway since it was only 350km, but I decided to take the route to Rzeszow and then through the hills via Dylagowka, Bachorz, Krzywza to Przemyzyl, and from there to the border. Nice tour.

After 120km, the tank was empty (the 'refuel now!' light was blinking for 30km), a total of 290km were on the clock. So I took a short break and then continued to navigate through the hot Rzeszow and found the exit. Up, down, left, right, and then I went to Przemysl (pictures 2 and 3) not bad at all. A few churches, a monastery, beautiful old houses, and then 0.0 cyclists later, I headed to the border in Medyka. I thought there wouldn't be much going on here since the main crossing is on the A4, well, there were already a lot of cars standing around and it was only operated in block processing. Since waiting in these temperatures and the approaching thunderstorm was not my thing, I went straight to the front and only had to wait for about 25 minutes. And then I realized that I had forgotten some stamp, I had to go back for a moment to register the Guzzste and also got a stamp, and now, finally.

Ukraine: quickly getting used to the speed limit of the road (partially taken in a leap) and tearing down the ~80km to Lviv or Lemberg. But you can already tell immediately behind the border that the clocks tick 'differently' here, to put it cautiously.

First impression of Lviv: disgusting dirty air, completely congested, ancient cobblestone streets unsuitable for motorcycles.

Second impression: great old building substance, probably even more than in Krakow itself. The suburbs are old and intact, the mega old town is completely preserved, a mix of Austro-Hungary, Eastern Europe, and maybe Prague. If this catches on in Hollywood, no one will shoot in Görlitz anymore! It used to be a real melting pot of cultures: Galician, Jewish, Austrian, Polish, German, Ruthenian, Armenian. Simply fantastic, a bit of fresh plaster and paint, and this is a bomb city. Pubs and culture are already there.

As for general well-being, I'll just say this: after 250km, I get off and hold the coffee like a Parkinson patient, but it subsides. I have a little training program for my butt and legs, then I can go a few more kilometers, but you can already feel it.

After updating my grandparents on Sunday morning (June 2, 2019), I pack my things and clean up the beloved campsite at the foot of the Kiev Reservoir. With my four-legged companion, we head to Wyschhorod first, where I stop for a coffee and then continue south. It is quite warm again, so the nearly 15 km to the well-known campsite in Obolon seem like the appropriate distance for today. Over the weekend, I still haven't received a response from the embassy in Kiev regarding Rango's pet passport. Therefore, it is not 100% certain whether it is worth going to the German embassy the following day. However, I want to at least get close. We know the route, and so we reach the northern district of Kiev in the early afternoon. We take a break at a supermarket for a while, the Dicke (dog) is taken care of, and I upload some pictures. Then we make our way through Obolon. The district is an extensive panel housing estate with typical green, recreational, and service areas between the high-rise buildings. Only a bathing lake in the middle of the residential area seems rather unusual, especially since the beaches on the Dnepr River are just a stone's throw away. When we reach the peninsula north of Obolonska, I decide not to cross over for just one night and instead check out a beach on the main arm of the Dnepr River as a possible campsite. It looks good. We make ourselves comfortable in a shady spot to set up the tent, as there is still too much foot traffic. As dusk falls, the shoreline slowly empties, and I can make the final preparations for the night. Due to a small mosquito infestation, we quickly retreat under the tarp.

On Monday morning, we have sunshine at the tent and need to vacate the place. After a swim in the river and a bite to eat, I pack up our stuff and we set off. At the Obolon promenade, we have a coffee before heading towards Kiev's old town. Around half past nine, the email from the German embassy finally arrives, both passports are here - everything is fine. So, we cross Obolon for the last time heading south. We reach the Pochaina bus station via the Obolonski Boulevard and cross the nearby railway tracks, always heading towards the sun. At the foot of the hills in Jurkoviza, we rest for a while under shade-giving trees. The sun is quite intense, and the Dicke (dog) is struggling with the temperatures. After a good half an hour, we continue along Kostjantinivska Street towards the southeast and then up to old Kiev. At the German embassy, I collect the new passports, thank them, and head to Maidan with the Dicke. Here, we replenish our food reserves before climbing a small hill on the Dnepr Riverbank. According to my map, there is a water museum and a spot with access to drinking water. Of course, the public tap at the water museum is out of service. However, I find a nearby restaurant and do not have to go back into the city. So we can continue walking and reach the Truchaniv Island in the Dnepr River via the park bridge. Here, we have another coffee at the Central Market before heading to our campsite at the northern end of the central beach. I set up the tent and end the evening after the usual routine.

On Tuesday morning (June 4, 2019), after a swim and a small breakfast, I go to the Central Market for a coffee. I have to make a few phone calls to explore the options for the upcoming ferry ride to Georgia. Luckily, I can take the next ferry on Wednesday evening if I manage to get to Odessa by then. The first request on BlaBlaCar leads to a confirmation. Great thing. Now I just have to get to the suburb of Teremki by the evening (the agreed departure time is 9:00 pm). It's about 20 km to get there, and I could mostly travel through green areas. We would also pass by the cave monastery, it doesn't sound so bad at all. So back to the tent and pack up our stuff. After a final swim, we set off for the cave monastery about 5 km away. Since dogs are not allowed inside, I am content with the views I can catch from the outside of the complex. Orthodox sacred buildings, as usual. After strolling through a memorial to the Great Patriotic War, we have to stop briefly under a tunnel. It is raining heavily. Then we go through the Svirinetz villa district to Michaila Boichka Street, where we linger for a small snack. Cheese bread with kefir is tasty for both me and the Dicke (dog). We continue walking along the street down to Lisa Hill. We walk around it along its northwestern flank and finally reach the Golisivski Forest. Hidden in the center of the forest is a hidden monastery complex that we pass on our way southwest. It seems like a large prosperous community that apparently sells various products of its own production. After a short break for a drink, we continue westward and reach the satellite city of Teremki after a good 20 km around half past seven in the evening. I'm a bit tired from walking, refill our drinking water, buy a small dinner, and settle down at the agreed parking lot. Since my driver didn't respond to my last message and it's already shortly after nine, it slowly dawns on me that we might be left hanging. Unfortunately, I also fail to find a replacement for the night. Around midnight, I find a meadow in a small grove, set up the tent, and somewhat disappointedly retreat under the tarp.

On Wednesday morning, I pack up our camp again and go to the shopping center near the previous night's campground for breakfast. After coffee and pastries, I contact more potential drivers, initially without success. I sit under a parasol in front of the KFC, the battery is charging at an outlet, and Rango (dog) has found a shady spot. So, it's bearable. The day passes with reading, Duolingo, and regular research on BlaBlaCar until I finally get lucky in the late afternoon and can ride with Sergey to Odessa. He is a musician and on his way to some medical check-up for an engagement on a boat. The ride is quite entertaining, the young man speaks a little English, and has a very pleasant taste in music. He offers to take me to a campsite about 30 km north of Odessa and bring me to the city the next morning. That works for me.

So we reach Grigorevka Beach around one o'clock in the night on Thursday, June 6, 2019. We set up our tents, I take another swim, and after a cup of tea, it's off to bed. The alarm goes off at six, I get up slowly, pack my stuff, and, as agreed, I'm ready to leave. Sergey is also ready on time, and we set off for the drive to Odessa. An hour later, I can get off at the train station and make my way to Silpo for breakfast and coffee with Rango. After a short query with the ferry company, the next departure time for Friday evening is set. Since I am already supposed to be at the Borei building at nine in the morning for the tickets, I plan to stay somewhere closer to Chornomorsk. I take the tram to Lustdorf (a village founded by Germans during Katharina's time). We rest at a supermarket before heading to the beach. Here too, I wait a bit with setting up the tent due to excessive foot traffic, lie in the sun for a while, and take occasional swims. The sea itself is quite nice. After setting up the tent and having a small dinner, it's time for bed.

Saturday morning (05/25/2019) at the Central Beach of Kiev. Around seven o'clock the sun drives me out of the tent. No one in sight. Good opportunity for a swim in the slowly flowing water of the Dnieper. Only the dog occasionally interrupts the morning silence by splashing around in the shore area and seems to enjoy the peaceful atmosphere. Then the first fishermen gradually arrive and we retreat to the campsite, slightly above. After breakfast, I take the time to do some minor repair work on my mattress. Meanwhile, a small regatta passes by on the river. Quite nice to watch all the sailboats. After updating my parents and grandparents, I decide to make my way north along the river. The Kiev Reservoir is located about 20 km north of the city. For now, I have planned a section, until near the Obolon district, for Saturday. After everything is packed, we hike along small paths on Trukhaniv Island until we reach the Pivnichni Bridge, which takes us to the southern edge of Obolon. We continue north along the "Heroiv Stalingrada Prospect". There we take a break at the nearest supermarket for coffee, ice cream, and chicken legs. Then we continue along the promenade to the Sports Yacht Club and across a small peninsula towards Obolonska Island. There is a path marked on my map through the narrow separating water. So I take off my shoes, roll up my shorts, and start crossing. During the next similar action, I give myself a test run, as the water was deeper than expected. I was wet up to my waist, and parts of the backpack were also immersed. Above all, I had forgotten to unleash Rango, so the dog had to swim next to me without much preparation time. He does it, a bit hectically, but otherwise without any fuss. In my hands, I had my shoes and the shopping for dinner, so I couldn't take them off spontaneously. Once I reach the island, we walk a few hundred meters to the south and set up our camp near a beach in a shady spot. The "water damage" is minimal after a first inspection, which is probably due to the short diving phase. So after the evening routine (training, bathing, washing clothes, dinner), we go to sleep as night falls and it starts to rain.

Due to the beautiful spot, I have decided to stay a little longer. Therefore, I settle for a few activities on Sunday. After breakfast, I dedicate myself once again to small repairs on my mattress (with increasing success) and go for a swim. Then I take Dicken with me and head to Obolon, where a cup of coffee and some cookies are waiting for me. After replenishing our drinking water and food supplies, we return to the island in the early afternoon. Rango now willingly swims ahead of me, as he knows the way. It's hardly noticeable that the dog used to be afraid of water. The rest of the day passes with Duolingo (for expanding my Russian skills), collecting firewood, and the evening routine.

I also spend Monday (05/27/2019) near Obolon, as I know that I will have to return to Kiev soon. The campsite contributes to my laziness, despite its somewhat secluded location on the green island, I have all the necessary infrastructure nearby (coffee, drinking water, shopping opportunities).

Nevertheless, on Tuesday morning, I pack up our stuff and we set off around noon. When crossing to the northern peninsula, I even have to carry the backpack over my head to keep it dry on the other side. The water level of the Dnieper fluctuates quite heavily throughout the day. Then we continue through the Obolon district to the north, until we reach the green strip south of Lake Lukov. Here we hike westwards until we reach Bogatirska Street. We follow it for a while in a northern direction, past Chornobyl, and then east of the railway line through the "Druschba" garden complex. Here, mainly vegetables and some fruit are grown. There are no huts, paved or gravel paths, fences, or dividing hedges between the gardens. The name seems to be a program as people cultivate their gardens among friends. In the late afternoon, we finally reach Wyschhorod, a small town southwest of the dam to the Kiev Reservoir. After almost 15 kilometers of walking, it's time for a break, of course with coffee and cake. Meanwhile, I recharge my batteries at a local power outlet. With the loss of my solar panel, I have become dependent on charging infrastructure. Let's see how I fit into the situation over the next few weeks or if I get myself a new sunshade. After finding something for dinner and setting up everything, I go through my evening routine and retire under the tarpaulin in due time. There are a few more mosquitoes around in the evening than before, which is somewhat surprising considering the sudden chorus of frogs. There must be thousands of animals, whose croaking merges into a surprisingly pleasant background noise.

I spend Wednesday morning (May 29, 2019) doing various things at the campsite before setting off for Wyschhorod with Rango. I have a cup of coffee and some sweets at Silpo and buy nearly 2 kg of meat for Dicken. I plug my battery into a power outlet before taking a stroll through the small town. The people mainly live in high-rise buildings and have a few beds right in front of the entrance to their buildings. There are plenty of playgrounds and sports facilities as well as benches to linger on. Quite socialist, plenty of publicly accessible space. We pass a new housing development (single-family houses with a small plot) on our way to a church that is over 1,000 years old. Then we descend into a kind of hilly landscape (most likely remnants of an old fortification) down to the Kiev Reservoir. The Dnieper River is already quite large, and accordingly, the reservoir is huge. It is about 100 km long and about 14 km wide at its widest point. The dimensions can only be guessed from Wyschhorod. Then we return to Silpo. I treat myself to another cup of coffee, buy dinner, collect my battery, and return to our private beach.

I also spend the next three days near Wyschhorod. I have already mentally prepared myself to possibly stay a little longer and pass the time fishing when I read an email from the German Embassy on Saturday (sent already on Wednesday) stating that I can pick up my passport. Those guys were really quick. So I prepare to head back towards Kiev on Sunday, hoping to receive both passports on Monday. Let's see...

As my alarm clock wakes me up on Sunday morning (19.05.2019) at around five o'clock, it is already bright outside. The view of the sunrise, which must be happening somewhere over the Black Sea, is denied to me by a band of clouds in the east. While I have breakfast and slowly pack up my stuff, nature around me and some of the other campers also wake up. Around seven o'clock, I put on my new backpack (pleasantly light) and make my way to the agreed BlaBlaCar meeting point about 4 km north of the campsite. We take a tram for a bit, stop for a small breakfast at Silpo, and then walk the rest of the way. Just before eight o'clock, André and his wife pick us up in front of their Lada. After my backpack, Rango, and I have taken a seat in the back row, we can start the trip to Kyiv. The small car doesn't offer much space, and Rango struggles a bit with the temperature, but I am still happy about the carpool. We take a short break about halfway through the journey. Time for a cup of coffee. Then we continue quite quickly. About 40 km before the Ukrainian capital, there was an accident and the traffic slows down a bit. André's Lada doesn't seem to handle it well, it goes off and doesn't make any attempts to start again. We have a breakdown. After I push the car to the side of the road, someone takes a look under the hood. The fan belt seems to be broken. We can't continue from here. However, André's wife quickly organizes a ride for me and Rango in another car, and we can ride the remaining kilometers to Kyiv in a minibus. So we reach the big city in the early afternoon and start looking for accommodation right away. Some of the hostels marked on my map are not found, others are already fully booked or not prepared for travelers with a dog. So I am quite happy when I finally can check into a small room in an establishment at the train station for a small amount of money in the early evening. I organize dinner and retire to my room early. Rango sleeps under the bed due to the lack of alternatives.

On Monday morning, we get up early again. After breakfast, we are on our way to the German embassy shortly after eight o'clock. I had already scouted the location the day before, so we are punctual. I find my way to the correct entrance, pass the security check, and take a seat in the waiting hall. Then nothing happens for a while. I guess it's breakfast break time. After 20 minutes, the first counter opens and the wheels start turning. After an hour and a half, I have completed all the formalities and applied for a new passport on an expedited basis. If I'm lucky, the passport will be ready in 2 weeks; if not, it may take four weeks due to holidays. I can have Rango's passport sent directly to Frau Hubatsch through the Foreign Office's courier service. Let's see if everything works out. After another cup of coffee, we walk through the Kyiv Old Town to the Dnieper River. The river seems a bit larger than the rivers we know from home. We stroll along the riverbank to the south and then climb a green hill before descending to Maidan on the other side. From there, we meander back to the hostel. I take a nap and take another walk in the city in the evening. Just before midnight, we are back at the train station hostel after walking more than 20 kilometers.

I completely oversleep Tuesday morning (21 May 2019). I wake up around eleven-thirty, have breakfast, and set off again with Rango. On the way, I buy a new camping stove and sit down for a coffee break in front of an AromaKava. A security person doesn't like it and chases us away. In the process, Rango snatches my coffee. So I save myself the search for a new place to sit and relax for a bit. We stroll through the Kyiv Old Town until late afternoon. We pass numerous four- to five-story townhouses, some churches, and numerous parks. Some townhouses in the so-called gingerbread style stand out with their abundant façade decorations. I return to the hostel for dinner. The evening walk is cut short by a heavy thunderstorm.

On Wednesday, we wander through Kyiv again, starting with a visit to several gas stations. I want to buy half a liter of gasoline, but I am prevented by an unwritten rule of 2 liters. My gasoline bottle can only hold 591 ml. Finally, the problem is resolved in the early afternoon. After dinner at the hostel, I take another stroll during the twilight before the day comes to an end.

On Thursday, May 23, 2019, I check out of the hostel and find a place to camp on Trukhaniv Island. After organizing a Ukrainian SIM card and some groceries in the city center, we cross the park bridge to the Dnieper Island. I find a spot at the northern end of the central beach and set up my camp. For the rest of the day, I relax on the picturesque sandy beach.

On Friday, I go into the city for a coffee and some shopping. It's not easy for me to leave my stuff unattended, but there's no other choice. I spend the rest of the day hanging out on the beach again. It's a nice spot I found there...

Monday, May 6, 2019, 7:00 AM, the alarm clock rings. Time to turn over. I have to get out of bed around seven-thirty, in an hour and a half the train to Ruse will depart. I am ready by eight-thirty and set off to the train station with Rango. Withdraw money, buy a ticket, organize a coffee, and we're ready to go. Thanks to Dicken, we have the compartment all to ourselves and I can dry my tent during the train ride. It rained a little last night on the beach of Varna. We reach Ruse at the Bulgarian-Romanian border around one o'clock. I buy a ticket for the onward journey to Bucharest in the afternoon and then use the remaining time for a little stroll in the city. We walk past the actual center of the small town due to lack of Wi-Fi and detailed maps, and I mainly see panel buildings. Despite that, I manage to find some food for Dicken and a coffee for myself. We reach the train station just in time, and it starts pouring rain. The border crossing to Romania goes smoothly, and we arrive in Bucharest with a slight delay shortly before seven. There is just enough time to buy tickets to Chişinău and hurry to the platform. However, the train conductor stops us from boarding. Despite having a ticket for Dicken, I am asked to pay again. We agree on €20 because all the alternatives to the night train to Moldova are not desirable. However, I am not completely sure that we will arrive there since we have to cross the border at Ungheni again. Just under a year ago, I was denied a train ride from Iaşi to Ungheni because of Rango. In the compartment, we have a small dinner, and then I stretch out on the bunk for the first half of the night.

At about quarter to three, we pass by Iaşi and an hour later reach the border to Moldova. Apart from a border officer's remark 'Câine interzisă', there is not much excitement about Rango, as it is difficult to see him in the dark compartment. On the Moldovan side, a young policewoman takes a closer look. Several officers thoroughly inspect Rango's passport, and I have to partially unpack my backpack and name its contents. In the end, we are allowed to continue without any objections and arrive in the Moldovan capital at around 9:00 in the morning. I arrange cash and breakfast for us. My local knowledge from the previous year comes in handy. Back at the train station, I inquire about the departure times of the train to Odessa. Unfortunately, it only runs from Friday to Sunday. That is too late for me, actually. So I head to the bus station and try to get bus tickets to Ukraine, which proves to be quite difficult again because of Rango. But we are lucky and can continue our journey to the port city on the Black Sea by coach in the evening. After bypassing Transnistria in a curve, we reach the bus station in Odessa around 10:00 in the evening. I arrange some hryvnia and go to the nearby tram stop. After a short time, I can take the tram to the main train station. There, I update my electronic street map using the station's Wi-Fi and immediately head to the beach. The Skalodrom campsite left a good impression last year but is a short walk away. We reach the location shortly after midnight, but nothing is open at this hour. So I set up my tent on the beach next to the campsite and can go to bed around one o'clock.

The next morning (Wednesday, May 8, 2019), Rango wakes me up by barking at another dog from inside the tent. It is already past ten, time to get up. After a brunch, I set off towards the Arkadia district. The campsite has reopened by now, and I briefly consider moving again but quickly dismiss the idea. If everything goes well, I will only spend one more night in Odessa anyway. According to the internet, the next ferry to Georgia leaves on Thursday, and I hope to be able to travel directly. To clarify that, I need internet. At the next hotspot, I write an email to NaviBulgar and waste some time. Then I continue, and Rango also needs something to eat. At a coffee bar, the Dicken gets nearly 2kg of chicken necks that I managed to find, and I treat myself to a hot drink. By now, Mr. Tarasenko from NaviBulgar has also replied to my email. It seems that I can continue to Georgia without a long delay. Things are going smoothly... In the afternoon, I head south along the green riverbank and back to our campsite. When I turn off towards our beach, I notice my green sweater from a distance. I believe I left it in the tent with a fair amount of certainty. Immediately, a very uneasy feeling arises in me. And indeed, when I arrive at the tent, the feeling turns into certainty. We have been robbed. Someone has taken my backpack and Rango's bags in the last few hours. Everything is gone. The only positive thing is that we are not homeless; the tent is still there. Besides the tent and the sweater, I still have the mattress, sleeping bag, cookware, and everything I had with me during the excursion (clothes, ID, credit card, phone). In the first knee-jerk reaction, I walk a few small paths in the area. Maybe the thief discarded their loot in the immediate vicinity and threw away the useless things. Unfortunately, I am not lucky. The biggest problem seems to be the loss of my passport and Rango's pet passport. Both documents are in the stolen backpack. I pack the remaining stuff together and leave it at the nearby campsite before heading to the police station in Arkadia. The guys there don't seem to feel responsible and send me to the station on Kanatna Street. There, I explain my problem again, and after a welcoming 'Welcome to Ukraine,' I am told that I need someone to translate. Moreover, the timing seems rather unfortunate as Ukraine celebrates Victory Day on May 8 and 9. So I continue with Rango for now and organize the essentials to get through until the next morning (dinner, toothbrush and toothpaste, phone charger). Back at the campsite, I set up our camp again before going out for a beer in Arkadia in the evening. I just felt like it...

On Thursday morning, I talk to Pavel during breakfast at the campsite, and he offers to help me at the police station but prefers Friday due to the holiday. That works for me. So we go back to Odessa to replace the next urgently needed things (shaving gear, towel, change of clothes, a piece of soap). On the way there, I take a break at AromaKava (coffee bar with Wi-Fi) at noon. I have a coffee and find a varied selection of food for the Dicken in the nearby Silpo supermarket. Back at Skalodrom, I use the facilities there. After a little training on the beach and a warm shower, I cook a small dinner in the camp kitchen. Actually, not a bad place to stay for a while.

On Friday (May 10, 2019), with Pascha's help, I can report the theft to the relevant police. I am offered two options. Firstly, I can report a theft. That means the officers will have to conduct an investigation, which of course takes time. Secondly, I can report the loss of my identification documents. That means less work for the police officers and a significantly faster processing time for me. It is strongly suggested to choose the second option, as it is more sensible for all involved. After about an hour and a half, I am handed a document and instructed to come back in a week. Then I take another stroll with Rango, write an email to the German honorary consulate in Odessa, and spend the evening at the campsite again.

Saturday starts rainy, and we start the day relatively late. Apart from the routine visit to AromaKava, not much else happens.

On Sunday morning, Pavel invites me to a kayak rental. It is the opening of the season, and there is an opportunity to try out some things for free. So I arrive at the agreed beach with Rango after an hour's walk and have to participate in a small race right away. In a tandem kayak, I can achieve a second place with Pascha. However, I am not competitive in the subsequent stand-up paddling contest. At least I'm standing on such a wobbly board for the first time. To make matters worse, I fall into the water. Afterward, I take another round with Rango in the tandem kayak, and once again, the Dicken attracts attention. After the award ceremony, we head back to the campsite via AromaKava.

On Monday morning (May 13, 2019), we go to the German consulate in the Old Town of Odessa after a detour to my regular coffee bar. Since I haven't received a response to my email yet, I have to go in person. The young woman who assists me does a solid job all around. I feel well taken care of. The gist of the visit is as follows: I can receive a fully valid new passport at the German Embassy in Kyiv. However, the civil registry office in Chemnitz has to send a scan of my birth certificate to the embassy. After a phone call with an employee in that office in my hometown, it turns out to be easier than feared. They will take care of it. Getting a replacement for Rango's documents seems to be a bit more complicated, though. The embassy employee we had contacted by phone lacks experience in that regard. I decide to take care of it myself. Then it's back to Skalodrom for now.

I spend Tuesday running errands in Odessa again. I need to start preparing for the trip to Kyiv and my hopes of seeing anything of my stolen stuff again diminish. So I treat myself to a new backpack, some small items from the pharmacy, a power bank, a nail clipper, and some repair supplies. While buying a new pair of trousers at the second-hand store, I overlooked the missing button, which now needs to be replaced. In the afternoon, I manage to obtain new pet papers for Rango at the veterinarian in Chemnitz. Ultimately, it turns out to be easier than feared.

Wednesday, May 15, 2019, is rather cloudy again, and I limit myself to a trip to the coffee bar and some chilling.

On Thursday, it's time to check with Ms. Hubatsch at the German Embassy about the scan of my birth certificate. It has arrived by now, great. The civil registry office in Chemnitz was pretty quick and uncomplicated in helping out. Then I go to the police station on Kanatna Street to pick up a new document. The database for files is striking, as it still seems to be primarily organized analog. Cubic meters of paper stacks in most offices. After receiving a stamp on my new document, which I get from the designated stamp officer at the police station, I'm done. Then I go to the train station to buy tickets for the trip to Kyiv. Unfortunately, I can't use every train with Rango, and there are no available seats on the permitted ones over the weekend. The next possible train departs on Monday evening. I am also not pleased with the pricing policy. I would have to buy an entire compartment because of Dicken. I decide to look for alternatives. So, first of all, back to the campsite; I have a climbing appointment in the afternoon.

On Friday, May 17, 2019, in addition to the now obligatory coffee at my regular bar and the evening training routine on the beach, I arrange a carpooling trip to Kyiv via BlaBlaCar for Sunday. So I also schedule an appointment at the German Embassy for Monday.

After a visit to the hairdresser on Saturday, I feel pretty well prepared for the upcoming trip to Kyiv...

On Thursday morning (02.08.2018) the alarm clock rings around six. I get out of bed, feed the dog, and start packing up our campsite. Shortly after seven, we are ready to go and head to the train station in Tiraspol. We arrive there just before eight, I leave Rango and my luggage in the station hall and buy a ticket to Odessa. Upon closer inspection, I realize that I have just bought a bus ticket. Stupid. After some persuasion and a small discount, I am able to return it. Back with Rango, we encounter some trouble with a uniformed officer because Rango doesn't have a muzzle on. I correct the mistake and apologize. The officer, who had been acting authoritatively, decides not to issue a ticket. At the ticket counter, I am in for a nasty surprise - there are no more seats on the train to Odessa. The uniformed officer now acts as a friend and helper and ensures that I can get on the train. I can sit with Rango in an in-between space. The 8 euros I give to a conductor for this seat are multiple times the regular fare, and I don't receive a ticket for it, but we arrive in Odessa shortly after half past ten - so everything's good! In front of the train station, I have a cup of coffee and some cookies before reactivating my Ukrainian SIM card and topping it up with credit. Then we take the tram south, as I have found a campsite right on the beach on my map. Around one o'clock, we can check in there without any problems. The place is relatively small and already quite full. Nevertheless, I find a shady spot for our tent. After setting it up, we head straight to the Black Sea for a good splash. In the late afternoon, we go shopping and meet our neighbors at the campsite for the first time. They are a family with a dog-like pet (could also be a larger guinea pig). Of course, Rango is immediately identified as a problem. The man has to go to the campsite manager, and shortly afterwards we have to move. The new spot is not ideal, but the main thing is that we are allowed to stay.

We spend most of Friday at the campsite and the beach, enjoying the sea and the sun.

On Saturday (04.08.2018), I wake up shortly after five in the morning. The dog has vomited in the tent again (as it later turns out, he had enjoyed plenty of treats from the new neighbors the night before). I throw the culprit out and clean up the mess. It is only about 15 minutes until sunrise. I find a nice spot on the cliffs and take the opportunity to watch the spectacle. After that, I go back to bed for another 2 hours. In the morning, we make our way to the port in Odessa. I want to inquire about ferry connections to Georgia. We reach there along the coast, mostly protected from the sun by trees, heading north. After an hour, we reach Shevchenko Park and take a short break with a view of the sea. We continue past the container port and an old fortress wall to the northeast. At the Sea Station, I receive the bad news - the ferries to Georgia depart from the port of Chornomorsk, about 20 km to the south. I can't find out more on the same day. We go back up the Potemkin Stairs to the Old Town. We spend the next four hours walking south through Odessa. For the last 3 km to the district 'kleine Fontäne', where our campsite 'Skalodrom' is located, we treat ourselves to another tram ride. Once we arrive there, I cool off in the sea immediately. Wonderful. The dog is put under the beach shower and clearly enjoys the cold water.

On Sunday, I continue my extensive exploration of Odessa. The Old Town is very extensive and still has plenty of attractive streets, parks, and other sights that we haven't seen yet. The streets are wide, shaded by plane trees, and mainly flanked by old facades. The Old Town of Odessa again has a much more Western European character than the one in Moldova. In the outskirts, there are partly old, partly newer buildings reminiscent of high-rise apartment blocks. Near the coast, there are countless large hotels, from which plenty more are being built. In the late afternoon, the dog gets another cold shower, and I jump into the cool water of the local pebble beach.

On Monday (06.08.2018), I have some minor repairs to do in the morning before setting off for the port of Chornomorsk in the early afternoon. Due to a few wrong directions, we walk a few unnecessary kilometers near the port area before I can get the necessary information at the ferry company's service desk around four o'clock. The next ferry leaves on Friday, takes about 2 days for the crossing, and is supposed to cost about 166 euros for Rango and me. So far, so good... For the return journey, I try once again to catch a bus, but without success. So we walk along an almost completely unshaded country road to the nearest tram stop. The heat causes the dog a lot of distress again. We pause at every shady spot we can find. Nevertheless, the dog almost collapses at the tram stop. I manage to get some water from a kiosk owner and pour it over the dog, causing him to "sweat" artificially. I also offer him something to drink, of course. Fortunately, the tram takes a bit longer to arrive, allowing Rango to acclimate. Back at the campsite, we go through our usual routine - a cold shower for Rango and a dip in the sea for me. Rango seems to be looking forward to it by now.

On Tuesday, it's time to relax at the beach and on the shady campsite again.

On Wednesday, 08.08.2018, I leave without the dog and head to Odessa. I am unable to run the errands I had planned or withdraw the money for the ferry ride, as it turns out after a few attempts that my credit card is empty. A phone call to my financial advisors back home finally solves the problem. So, on Wednesday, I continue to explore the port city on the Black Sea.

On Thursday, there is nothing else planned except going to the ferry company's service desk to purchase the reserved ticket. After almost 2 hours of travel, in conversation with an employee, I find out that the ticket is supposed to cost almost 100 euros more because of Rango, and the ticket office is closed on Thursday. So I return to the campsite empty-handed and quite annoyed. After a few hours of researching alternative routes, I decide to bite the bullet and take the expensive ferry to Georgia on Friday. In the evening, I enjoy the sea and the beach one last time with Rango before leaving Skalodrom. There is a bit of sadness, but the information I have gathered about the Caucasus and its inhabitants fills me with excitement for the upcoming stages, and I fall asleep.

On Sunday morning (July 8, 2018), around nine o'clock, I leave the tent. I take advantage of the peace and quiet (the rest of the party is still sleeping) to shower and do some laundry. Then I head towards Kuchuriv with my trusty bike to have a small breakfast and a cup of coffee. Back at the tent, I doze off in the afternoon sun before we pack up our things and I say goodbye to Ivan and Roman. We exchange some contact information and around three o'clock, Rango and I set off. The plan was to take a bus to Chernivtsi and then take a train to Moldova. However, after two failed attempts to get the bike on a bus, we decide to continue on foot to the east. We set up our tent near a small unnamed settlement after walking for about 7 kilometers. I organize some drinking water for Rango and myself from the neighborhood. After a small dinner, we go to bed early, as the previous evening took its toll.

On Monday morning, we have a hearty breakfast while I recharge my batteries in the sun. Around twelve o'clock, we continue eastward. Suddenly, we are accompanied by a third wheel. The Big One has secretly organized a girlfriend who joins us for about an hour and then disappears just as discreetly. We reach Molodija around half past two, where I take a break in the center with some coffee and cookies. The local community generously donates food to me, so I am practically forced to feed most of it to Rango. Unfortunately, the village does not offer any opportunity to replenish my dwindling cash reserves, but I am promptly driven by Lada to the nearest ATM and back. We set off again around five o'clock and set up our camp half an hour later on the outskirts of the village. While setting up the tent, my improvised sleeve tears, so aluminum is not the right material. I temporarily secure the frame with a piece of wood, as there is nothing better available at the moment. For dinner, we have cucumber salad with bread and cheese. The donated cucumbers taste very bitter to me, and I can't help but think of dear Hopi, who ended up in the hospital after eating bitter zucchinis from his own garden. A quick internet search prompts me to immediately stop eating, as bitter fruits similar to pumpkins are not to be taken lightly. However, by that time, I have already eaten half of the salad. Fortunately, I only experience mild digestive discomfort, and no further symptoms occur over the next two days.

On Tuesday, July 10, 2018, before continuing our journey, I repair my tent frame again. This time, I use a beer can that I found while packing as the necessary repair material. It seems quite sturdy. We set off around noon, and under sunshine and high temperatures, we make our way to Lukovyzya in the first hour. Here, I treat myself to coffee and ice cream. We continue marching to Hodynivka and then to Horbova, where another coffee break awaits. It is already half past five, so I replenish our food supplies at the local store before looking for a place to spend the night. The Prut River is now very close, so a campsite by the water seems feasible. About 30 minutes later, we actually find a cozy spot under poplar trees right by the water and settle down. Another nearby body of water is inviting for a swim, so I enjoy several swims that same evening.

On Wednesday, the decision to stay for a day is quickly made, and so I spend the day swimming, exploring the area (by the Prut River and an old gravel pit), and having a cup of coffee in Horbova. I also make a paw protector for the Big One - it's time for him to carry his backpack again.

I wake up on Thursday morning (05.07.2018) due to knocking noises on the door. The friendly hotel employee from the previous evening brings my breakfast around eight o'clock. The Dicke doesn't seem to be ready to get up yet, but when I offer him his portion of meat, he eventually agrees. After breakfast together, I enjoy the convenience of a shower once again, and then I lace up my shoes and backpack. Before we can continue, I have to improvise a paw protection for Rango's paw, as the Dicke is only walking on three legs. Then we continue eastward. I have decided to find a nice spot for camping in a suburb of Chernivtsi and to take a public transport to Chernivtsi for some city walks. The previous experiences with hotels and hostels in Ukraine suggest that. In the big city, I hope to find a cobbler and get Rango a pair of paw protectors. After the Dicke has gotten used to the padded socks over his paw, he can walk properly again and we can continue hiking the next kilometers in beautiful sunshine. After covering about 2 km of country road, we continue on a gravel road along fields and individual houses. After about 2 hours we take a break for a while on the terrace of a store on the outskirts of Velykyi Kuchuriv, enjoying coffee and ice cream. The place has several bus stops and is located on the railway line to Chernivtsi, so it is strategically convenient. On my map, there is a drinking water source indicated at the southeastern outskirts, near the small river Derelui. This suggests a good camping spot. There is no suitable spot for camping right at the water source, but the other side of the water gives some hope. After arriving there, I find myself at the entrance to a kind of garden plot with an impressive wooden house. I have already been noticed and decide to introduce myself and my request to the 3 men at the garden pond. And behold, I am allowed to set up my tent on the property. Great! I have to hurry with setting up because I am strongly urged to join them for a meal. So on Thursday, I don't get away from the sociable group. Even the attempt to get food for Rango in the village is thwarted, as the 'boss' sends one of his boys. In the meantime, I can at least sneak away to do some laundry. Ivana, who seems to own all of this, calls himself a bandit and after a tour of his dacha with sauna, billiard room, and several bedrooms, I have no doubt about it. Since the attempt to reject the first little drink didn't really work, I also lack good arguments to refuse the following ones. Throughout the evening, new acquaintances and relatives constantly join us, so there is always a reason to toast. Druschba! Around half past one, the last guests finally leave the property and I retreat to my tent.

On Friday, I get up around half past eight and walk to Kuchuriv for breakfast and to get some meat for Rango. I'm back at the tent around eleven o'clock, lay out my dry laundry, listen to some music, and doze off in the sun. In the afternoon, I set off for Chernivtsi. I can find a cobbler, but he doesn't want to repair my shoes - very unfortunate. I can't find a pet store, but on the way back, I treat myself to a visit to the hairdresser. It's a straightforward affair. Please sit down and off we go. It seems that what I have in mind doesn't matter much, I'm not asked. But the woman does her job very professionally. So after a good half hour of cutting, washing, and styling, I'm quite happy. I'm back at the tent and with Rango shortly after eight o'clock. The tent is broken, the poles are cracked. At first, it's unclear how this could have happened. But with a piece of the aluminum windscreen from my gasoline stove (from which I make a kind of sleeve), the problem is quickly solved and after a small dinner, I can move back into my four walls.

On Saturday morning, I am up again around half past eight. For the Dicke, there are plenty of chicken feet and torsos for breakfast, and for me scrambled eggs with ham and cheese. In the meantime, the probable course of events regarding the tent damage becomes clearer. An uncle leads his cows suspiciously close to the tent. One of the milking machines ventures too close to Rango, who plays the role of a 'dangerous predator' as a preventive measure, and the cow makes a big jump to the side. Likely onto my tent the day before... but it's all just speculation. After a call home, I set off again towards Chernivtsi at around eleven o'clock. On Friday, I hadn't made it to the city center yet. Czernivtsi's center makes a quite nice impression, although the state of renovation of most buildings is somewhat lacking by Western standards. On the way there, I pass through a kind of market that offers all sorts of delicacies and is overflowing with visitors. It's all about going with the flow. Near the center, I have coffee and ice cream during a short rain shower before slowly making my way back to the bus. This time, I find two specialty stores for pet supplies, but I can't find paw protectors in Rango's size. In the early evening, I am back at the tent in Kuchuriv and promptly get detained for dinner by one of Ivana's guests. So I spend the next few hours with my new Ukrainian friends, enjoying various delicacies, vodka, and interesting conversations.

On Tuesday morning, I am awakened by a light drizzle, but fortunately it quickly clears up. I turn over and doze for a while. Around nine, I am awakened again - the Dicke just vomited all over the tent. I chase the culprit out of our dwelling and inspect the mess. Fortunately, it is mostly limited to Rango's blanket and a piece of tent floor, so it is quickly cleaned up. Time to finally get up. I wash Rango's blanket in the nearby mountain stream and cool myself down a bit. Then I have breakfast while Rango gets nothing for now. By half past eleven, our stuff is packed and we can continue walking. Due to Rango limping the night before, I put his bags on my backpack and we march to Hilcha, where after an hour and a half of hiking, I have a coffee at the local cafe. Rango is also walking well again by this point and gets a belated breakfast. After an hour's break, we continue and are soon invited to ride in a van to the center of the next town. After nearly 6 km, we reach Banyliv-Pidhirnyj. Here, I can replenish my cash reserves, supplement our food supplies, and have a local grandmother fill up my water bottle. Then we continue east through meadows and fields, past small homesteads, and through shady forests. I am very glad that the paths had some time to dry, otherwise it would have been quite messy again. Shortly before half past six, I finish the day's stage about 3 km west of the village of Cheresh and set up our tent on a piece of mown grass with the permission of a resident. The kind man also provides me with drinking water, so the day ends quite worry-free.

At three in the morning, the Dicke vomits again in our shared shelter - I'm a bit fed up and kick Rango out of the tent for the rest of the night. I suspect it was the dry food that I bought in Putyla, it was probably more for the cats. I get up at eight, put my solar panel in the sun, and have a leisurely breakfast. The Dicke enjoys his chicken legs as if nothing had happened. The farmer around the corner provides fresh drinking water, and by half past ten, we are ready to leave. After an hour, I treat myself to a coffee and some waffles in Cheresh, and then we continue north. The next 6 km are quite easy to walk, through meadows and bushes, then we enter a forest and the path becomes less clear. After crossing a larger road, we follow a well-built forest path to the east. The junction to Storozhynets' cannot be found, so we have to rely on forest worker paths. Some of them end up in the middle of nowhere and force us to trudge through the forest to the north. So, we need a good hour for the next two and a half kilometers. Then we find a passable path again and can cover the remaining distance to the city quite quickly. At half past five, after walking about 20 kilometers, we rest at a cafe in Storozhynets' for coffee and ice cream. According to my map, there is a larger body of water called Akva about 10 km north, where Google Maps indicates a campsite. I decide to push on there and hope to stay for several nights. I give up on taking the bus after waiting at the bus stop for a while, so we reach the destination around a quarter to eight, by now quite footsore. The sign by the road already raises doubts about camping, no sign for camping. At the entrance to the 'Akva-Plus' resort, there are also various dog prohibition signs... I have a very bad feeling about this. The young woman at the reception of the associated hotel grants us shelter in a twin room after a short conversation. However, a longer stay, as I had imagined, is not possible due to Rango. That would cause trouble with the boss, who shouldn't know about the one night already. So, the exhausting day ends with a cool shower and a small dinner in the room.

On Saturday, June 30, 2018, I cautiously look out of my shelter just before nine o'clock. Not surprisingly, the view is still gloomy. However, this does not change the fact that we are planning to continue our march today. So we have a leisurely breakfast. Rango is so kind to give me a piece of his abundant portion of chicken meat, which I bake with cheese and enjoy with the last bread. Shortly after eleven-thirty, our things are packed and we can set off refreshed and well-strengthened. My laundry, which has been hanging under the pavilion for a day and a half, is still wet. At least I can 'dry run' a part of it. After an hour and a half, we have completed the 7 km descent to Putyla and we stop at the first store. As it turns out, the reception here is very reasonable and I can upload pictures for two travel reports. In the meantime, I treat myself to several cups of coffee and something sweet. We attract some attention again and are lovingly taken care of. I receive some socks as a gift (people can't stand bare feet in these temperatures) as well as some raspberries and a bowl of borscht. The typical Eastern European stew is much tastier and more lovingly prepared than the soup that was served to me in Lviv - truly good home cooking. The hours pass by quickly and we only continue on our way shortly after five. We go another 8 km to the east via Parkulina. Along the way, the view to the northwest regarding the weather is very promising. It seems to be clearing up. At an altitude of over 1000 m, I set up my tent in a small weather shelter around seven o'clock. I am very happy to have a dry place to spend the night, as the ground around it is already quite saturated. I hang up my laundry (hope dies last), have a small dinner, and go to bed at nine o'clock.

On Monday morning, after breakfast, I first repair my tent. I had to go out during the night and stumbled over a guyline. There was a short 'pop' and my skylight was gone. So we don't start until around one o'clock, but during the forced break, we can enjoy the first rays of sun in a long time. Very pleasant. To continue to the east, we have to cross another mountain ridge. During the first hour, the path takes us to an altitude of almost 1300 m, in pleasant hiking weather with a mix of clouds and sun. Then we walk along the lower part of the ridge, completely soaked paths and through a kind of high moor. Despite all caution, hiking in dry shoes is no longer possible after an hour and a half, and to make matters worse, it starts raining again. It somehow fits the situation that the only way that can lead me down to Dolischnij Schepit has long been unused, hard to make out, and completely overgrown with all kinds of vegetation. In addition to my soaking wet shoes, my pants are now soaked up to the waistline. On this stretch, I am thoroughly fed up with the external conditions - what am I doing here, actually!? After another hour, the weather improves again with the trail. The sun makes an appearance and my mood improves a bit too. Shortly before five o'clock, we reach the village and I treat myself to two cups of coffee and some sweets at a store. After half an hour of catching my breath, we walk a few more kilometers along the village. We cross the Siret River before setting up our camp just outside the village. We can end the day in sunshine and forget about the hardships of the afternoon.

Tuesday morning starts sunny, and I take advantage of the morning to dry the last damp items of my luggage. We start again around one o'clock and climb what is probably the last major climb of our eleven-day Carpathian expedition. We ascend the 1000 meters in altitude quite quickly. Along the way, I find it hard to resist the offer of raspberries, and the big guy has to wait for me a little longer from time to time. After an hour and a half, we are already descending again, but I can't find any path other than a forestry road. It is very steep and eventually leads us into a small gorge from which there is no escape until the next larger mountain stream (about 1.5 km away). I can only keep my shoes dry for a while, but eventually a rock wobbles more than I can compensate for and I find myself in the water. But that doesn't spoil my good mood anymore, as I have dry reserve shoes to slip into later. Once we have crossed the gorge, we continue eastward along a well-developed trail. Along the way, I fill a bag with raspberries for breakfast the next day. After about 10 km, I end the day's stage. When I look back, I see the big guy hobbling badly, looking for soft ground. I set up the tent about 3 km before Hylcha on a meadow, and we enjoy a relaxing end to the day.

On Tuesday morning (June 26, 2018), we get up shortly after eight. The weather is rather cloudy again, but dry. After having breakfasted the last supplies, I pack our stuff and we are ready to go shortly after ten. Before we start, a larger group of hikers arrives at our campsite and we get into conversation. Besides some Germans, there are young people from all kinds of European countries, a pretty international group. They want to climb up to Pip Iwan and recommend a campsite about 7 km away. Shortly after half past ten, I can finally release Rango, he has made plenty of friendships again. After an hour and about 3 km of descent, we reach Dzembronya and I go straight to a shop at the entrance of the village, buy some bread and butter, and treat myself to a coffee and an ice cream. Then we walk along a mountain stream downstream. After another hour, we reach the recommended campsite. It offers various sports activities such as rafting and also a sauna. Quite tempting, but I still need to find some food for Rango, so we continue walking towards Krasnyk, the next village. On the way, I get a ride to Werchowyna, the nearest bigger city. I gratefully accept and chat with a young music teacher from Kiev on the way, who is spending part of her three-month summer vacation in the area. We reach the small town shortly before two o'clock, I can replenish our supplies, have another coffee, and take advantage of the good reception to read something. Around three o'clock, we set off again into the mountains. Shortly before leaving the village, I meet a woman from Berlin, with whom I have a brief conversation. She has been coming here regularly for a few years and considers the area to be one of the most beautiful in Ukraine - I can understand that well. The next two hours we hike southwards and finally set up our tent above the village of Zamahora with a magnificent view over the valley.

On Wednesday, I wake up for the first time shortly before five and watch the sunrise over the valley for a moment, then I go back to bed for a few more hours. We get up at nine and have a leisurely breakfast. In Werchowyna, I was able to buy chicken heads cheaply for Rango, who eats them despite initial skepticism. Every now and then, a few local residents pass by on foot or with horse-drawn carts and look surprised. You don't see many hikers here. In between, Rango chases a farm dog up the mountain, I was momentarily inattentive. Around eleven o'clock, we start the stage of the day, which is supposed to lead us southwards along a mountain ridge and then further east to Yablunytsya. First, we have to reach Sminska, 1356 m high. After an hour and a half, we have overcome the approximately 400 meters of altitude and can continue hiking along the mountain range. There is plenty of activity on the slopes, people are picking blueberries. Anything serves as transport. Some are on horseback, others are on a scooter or motorcycle. There are also a few Ladas, Moskvichs, and trucks standing around up here. I have to walk quite a while before I find a spot where it's worth taking a break to eat blueberries. Shortly after half past two, we leave the ridge and start descending to the east. I'm quite happy to be back in the forest again, a pretty strong wind was blowing up here. In the late afternoon, it starts raining again, so I set up our tent about a kilometer and a half before Yablunytsya on a meadow. I hang my sweaty shirt in the rain to use it for washing, which should last almost the whole night.

On Thursday morning (June 28, 2018), it is no longer raining, but it's foggy and cloudy. Both my tent and my hanging laundry will probably have to be packed wet. Shortly before eleven o'clock, we set off for the nearby village. On the way there, I stop at a cherry tree, taste a few fruits, and pack a bag full for the journey. Shortly after entering the village, Sascha accompanies us for a while, apparently having a lot to tell. He doesn't mind that I can only partially follow him. After I have provided some information about age, origin, destination, and Rango, he apparently trusts me to handle a lot. After an hour, we reach the bridge over the White Cheremosch, which clearly shows the recent rainfall. I replenish our supplies again and have a coffee at the shop. Then we follow the main road for another kilometer towards the northeast before turning right towards Samakova. The village is about 5 km southeast. After over an hour of uphill walking, we reach the village and I treat myself to another coffee. Like in Yablunytsya, the reception is rather poor here as well. The saleswoman in the small store recommends the climb to a nearby hill. And indeed, half an hour later, I can complete my map material up to Putyla. The next few hours will be quite a struggle again. The paths are mostly soaked and my shoes weigh twice as much due to the mud sticking to them. There are several streams to cross, and at one of them, I have no choice but to take off my shoes and wade through. Shortly after five, after a total of 17 km, I pass a kind of pavilion. After briefly considering whether the tent will fit underneath, the end of the stage about 6 km before Putyla is decided. I clear the table, sweep the floor, and set up my tent. After the laundry has found its place under the roof, I am optimistic that I will be able to pack my stuff dry the next morning. Throughout the evening, I am increasingly confirmed in my decision, as there is a pretty severe storm going on outside.

The Friday morning (June 29, 2018) cannot offer dry laundry, and the outlook is also very cloudy in front of the pavilion. After breakfast, I decide to stay at this spot and spend the day doing maintenance work on the equipment and reading, depending on the reception. Apart from breakfast, Rango shows no inclination to leave the tent and dozes off the whole time. With a few exceptions, it rains most of the day. Regardless of the weather, we are planning to continue our journey on Saturday, as our supplies will be running out again. After a good rest, that should not be a problem.

On Saturday morning (June 23, 2018), Aljoscha gets up around six o'clock and makes coffee. It's also time for me to get out of bed. After a shared breakfast - I'm offered bread, sausage, bacon, and coffee - we say goodbye and I set off with Rango into the mountains. I have planned a ridge hike on a section of the Chornohora (Black Mountains). The mountain range is the highest in Ukraine and part of the western Ukrainian Carpathians. After leaving Jasinya to the southeast, the trail leads us through a wet meadow. After 10 minutes, my feet are soaking wet. Then we continue along a frequently traveled path. The next few hours turn into a real mud battle. There's no improvement in sight, as it starts drizzling again. After about three and a half hours and nearly 9 km, we take a break at Polonina Shessa, a collection of small huts. Some residents are just leaving for the valley with horse and cart, probably to sell dairy products. I have a sandwich to eat for strength and gather some blueberries that are plentiful all around. Unfortunately, the weather is too bad to linger, with drizzle and cold wind forcing us to move on. After another 90 minutes of hiking, I notice that we have deviated from the trail and decide to go about 500 m cross-country. We have now crossed the snow line and have to struggle through waist-high snow-covered bushes at times. It's quite a challenge. After finding the path again, it leads us up white slopes to Mount Petros. A subtle snowstorm accompanies us for a while. We reach the 2020 m high summit at 2:45 p.m. The weather still doesn't invite us to linger or enjoy, so we immediately start the descent. Due to the wet slopes, the descent is much more unpleasant than the ascent. At times, I slide down the path. Now we also encounter several other hikers, until then we seemed to be the only ones enjoying the mountains. After descending to about 1500 m, we walk about 5 km at the same altitude along the mountain ridge to a shelter where I plan to spend the night. We reach the establishment at five o'clock and settle in. After covering over 21 kilometers and conquering over 1300 vertical meters, we are both quite exhausted. I chat with a few other hikers and am invited to warm tea and cookies. Rango also gets plenty of treats. My vague knowledge of Russian comes in handy here as the network quality is too poor up here for my translator. I then retire to the sleeping quarters shortly after nine o'clock.

The next morning, there is a general sense of departure around eight o'clock, and we also get up. I am treated to a coffee for breakfast, and Rango gets a bowl of leftover couscous. We exchange a few more words, and by half past ten all our stuff is packed. We return to the ridge path, heading southeast. Although there is no precipitation, a strong wind is blowing, pushing foggy air masses up the mountainside constantly. So after 45 minutes, I decide not to climb Mount Hoverla, the highest peak in Ukraine at 2061 m. We continue hiking along the mountain slopes and sometimes along the ridge of the mountain range without being able to see much of the landscape around us. This only changes around half past two, near the 2001 m high Pebra, when I catch a glimpse of a piece of blue sky for the first time and the clouds slowly dissipate. Half an hour later, we can catch the first rays of sunshine, and the clouds clear, revealing the surrounding landscape. Time for a little break! Afterwards, we walk along the mountain ridge for another hour and a half until we start the descent about 2 km before Pip Ivan. I briefly consider climbing to the remote castle, but unfortunately there are no fresh water sources until there, and my supplies won't last until the next morning. The wind has calmed down a bit by now, and we can walk down the mountainside in the evening sunshine. We have truly landed in a magnificent area. We reach the intended hut near the Podnik spring shortly after seven o'clock. There is no accommodation available here, but according to a sign, various dairy products can be bought. We go back a few meters along the trail, and I set up camp on a flat piece of pasture. Rango practically falls into the tent. We have covered more than 20 km in the mountains again and are accordingly exhausted. Nevertheless, I decide to wash some laundry at the nearby spring and hope for a sunny Monday morning and a strong breeze overnight. So the day comes to its well-deserved end among grazing cows and two horses.

On Monday morning (June 25, 2018), I am actually awakened by a few rays of sunshine tickling the tent fabric around seven o'clock. I put my two pairs of hiking shoes (still soaked) in the sun and attach the solar panel to the tent. Then I go back to bed, as I don't feel like continuing the hike yet. Around nine o'clock, I make a small breakfast and check the food reserves. The supplies should last until the next day, so I decide to take a break and lie down again after breakfast. Rango also shows no signs of wanting to leave the tent. So we doze off well into the afternoon. Then it's time to take down the laundry as the weather threatens to change again. I patch up Rango's backpack again, which he had torn apart on a barbed wire fence on Saturday. I work on a travel report and in the late afternoon, I buy various types of cheese (Brinza, Burda, and a sliced cheese) at the mountain pasture. The sun comes out in the evening and reveals a different face of the surroundings. I brew myself a spruce needle tea for dinner to counter the impending cold and go to bed early.

Since the train to Ivano-Frankivsk is already delayed by a good quarter of an hour in Lviv, we won't reach Ivano on time either. During the wait at the train station, I can talk to an Indian who is studying medicine in Ukraine and offers to help me find accommodation in Ivano. On Thursday (June 21, 2018), the provincial capital welcomes us shortly after eleven in the dark. No sign of the Indian - he had to take a seat in another wagon and cannot be found when getting off. I could only find four hostels on the internet and after my experiences in Lviv, I am not very optimistic that I will find accommodation. However, surprisingly, I can find a room on my second attempt. So after a summer day, I enjoy a cool shower, use the fast WLAN to upload some impressions of the past days, and finally go to bed well after midnight.

Friday morning wakes me up with cool temperatures and rainy weather. First, I manage to convince the receptionist to accommodate me and Rango for another day, but then unfortunately her boss interferes. Dogs are not welcome in the hostel. So around noon, I pack up my things and go into the city to look for a new place to stay. Unfortunately, without success. After a coffee and a poppy seed strudel, I decide on the same day to head towards the Ukrainian Carpathians. So I spend the next few hours driving around Stanislav, before I make my way to the train station in the late afternoon. On the way there, I stock up on food for the next few days, with Rango's food being about twice as expensive as my own. At the train station, after initial seeming overwhelmedness of the ticket counter staff, I can buy tickets for Rango and me to Jasinya. We still have about two and a half hours before the train departs, which we spend mostly in the waiting area of the train station. The train conductor, in the assigned wagon, greets Rango and me rather unfriendly and annoyed. My lack of Ukrainian skills and / or Rango somehow doesn't suit him at all. So the Dicke also has to take a seat in a space between the wagons and spend the 3 hours to the mountains without me. I occasionally have a conversation with some young people who are interested in the unusual fellow passengers. Shortly before eleven, we reach the train station of the small mountain village, still in rainy weather. About 300 m away, a possible accommodation is marked on my map. There is no doorbell on site, the gate is closed, so I ask the gas station attendant next door for help. He makes a short phone call and asks me to follow him. In the neighboring farmstead, he wakes up the resident, who obviously doesn't want to help us. They recommend us to try our luck in the center, about 1.5 km away. After some back and forth, we finally end up at a night watchman's hut around twelve. With the help of my translator, we can have a little conversation and Aljoscha finally offers us a place in his humble abode.

On Tuesday morning, it is already light at around four. I try to make myself comfortable on the train station bench for another 2 hours and then, around half past six, I head towards the center of Sanok with Rango. There is a small breakfast at the market square. Afterwards, I look for a post office to send a package home. Then it's time to make our way back to the train station, as there are not many opportunities for us to leave this place. So, we wander through the picturesque little town once again and can board the train punctually at 9:48 am. Unfortunately, there is no direct train connection to the Ukrainian border, so we have to go through Jasło, Tarnów, and Rzeszów, and finally arrive in Przemyśl around 6:30 pm after about 380 km. An hour later, we take the train to Lviv from the adjacent track. I can no longer buy a ticket at the train station, but I hope that my remaining 70 zł will be enough, as the little tour through Poland burned more reserves than expected. Actually, the conductor would like to have 75 zł, but then agrees to accept 70 zł. I even get a coffee served and so we leave the EU without any problems around 7:30 pm. Shortly after nine (one hour later due to Eastern European Summer Time), we arrive in Lviv. The first attempt to withdraw money fails, as the ATM offers too few options for the amount of money to be withdrawn. Furthermore, I still have no idea how the hryvnia is currently standing against the Euro, so I urgently need access to the Internet. I find what I'm looking for in front of the train station, can gather some information, solve my cash problem, and then start looking for a place to stay overnight. Finally, I can check into a room in a hostel at around midnight local time. The Dicke (nickname of the author) unnecessarily complicated things again - apparently, nobody in Ukraine expects a travel tandem like us. I take a shower and then fall into bed, quite exhausted.

The next morning, we start the day leisurely. After having a bite to eat, I leave a load of laundry at the hostel to be washed, treat myself to a coffee and some cookies on the terrace, and rearrange the contents of my backpack. Around noon, we set off for the city. The temperatures have already exceeded 30 °C again, so a walk in one of Lviv's many parks seems like a good decision to me. From the High Castle Park, we have a good view over the northern part of the city. We continue east through the Kaiserwald and from there head south towards the Old Town. Dark clouds are gathering in the sky, so we hurry back to the hostel, pick up my dry laundry. We still find time for an ice cream on the way, despite fearing rain. The expected rain stays away and we relax in our room for a while. In the late afternoon, we head back to the city. We aimlessly wander around for the next few hours. In Lviv, traces of many cultures and ethnicities from the last few centuries can be found. In addition to the Polish majority population, which existed for many centuries, Jews, Armenians, Germans, and of course Ukrainians have shaped the cityscape. Today, in addition to Ukrainians, there are also Poles, Russians, and Belarusians living here. The city is part of the UNESCO World Heritage List and is known for its Mediterranean flair. The Old Town is not fully accessible to me due to its sheer size, and this time I decided not to make any trips to the outskirts. There are small shops, studios, museums, cafes, and pubs everywhere. Bustling activity can be seen everywhere. Street musicians and artists provide entertainment, and older women offer fruits, vegetables, eggs, and dairy products from their gardens at many small street markets. Time flies by, and after a late visit to the train station, we return to the hostel shortly after midnight.

On Thursday (22.06.2018), we are heading further south. I have chosen Ivano-Frankivsk as our next stop on the way to the Carpathian Forests. We check out around eleven and make our way to the train station. Just across from the hostel, I get a Ukrainian SIM card, which makes me less dependent on various WiFi hotspots again. At the train station, I buy a ticket to Stanislav, the name of the university town until the 1960s. The train departs in the evening, so there is still time for an extended tour of Lviv. I drop off our luggage at the train station. For lunch, I have borscht and the Dicke has a mountain of chicken torsos. This time, we approach the Old Town from the south and cross several shady green spaces along the way. We cover quite a few kilometers until the evening, and at least I am quite happy when we finally sit in the train to Ivano-Frankivsk.

First of all, we were able to unload our bus. The relief supplies we brought from Gudensberg were unloaded. Emergency kits and other materials from the German Red Cross were procured and provided by the DRK in Gudensberg. The symbolic handover was done by our mayor Frank Börner in the hospital of Schtschyrez.

We continued our city tour. We visited the old German cemetery and the former German settlement behind it. Then we went to the memorial of the fallen heroes. What many people don't know: Ukraine fought against Russia until 1957. The memorial is next to an old barn where a massacre took place. Today it's a memorial site.

In the big church in the center of Schtschyrez we were able to sing a first song.

After lunch, off to the fairground! A great festival with a good turnout. Before our performance, Frank Börner addressed the citizens of Schtschyrez:

'Dear Mr. Mayor, dear citizens of the city of Schtschyrez,

There is war in Ukraine. That saddens us. We are here today,
because we are committed to peace. For peace in Ukraine, in
Europe, for peace worldwide. Our songs should contribute to that. They are songs for peace, for friendship and international understanding. That's also the message of our Foreign Minister Steinmeier, who is currently traveling in the UK and has at least achieved a ceasefire in eastern Ukraine.

This is an important signal for a good future. That's why I
hope that our visit is also under a good sign.
Thank you very much for allowing us to be here today, with our
friends in Schtschyrez!

I would like to send the warmest regards from the citizens of Gudensberg, from the city councils, which is why our parliament speaker Walter Pippert is here and also the greetings from the fire department chief Verdy Ryffel and from Frank Degenhardt for the youth fire department.

The willingness to help of the people of Gudensberg is very great. We are happy to help,
because the political leaders in Schtschyrez think very wisely and
visionary, because they have a good heart.

Thank you to Mayor Oleg Vasilischin and Deputy Mayor Wolodia Popowitch. Thank you for allowing us to be your guests today, to celebrate today with the citizens of this beautiful and proud city of Schtschyrez.

Thanks also to your former mayor and my friend Mikhailo Brodytsch. Our friendship began with the fruitful cooperation between our two cities. We met in Jelcz-Laskowice, our Polish twin town.

Together and with the help of the fire department Gudensberg, we dismantled furniture and equipment from 42 apartments in Braunlage and brought them to Schtschyrez. And we also managed to bring the first fire truck to Schtschyrez.

But without the support of our friends from Jelcz-Laskowice, especially Mayor Bogdan Sjenschiak, many aid projects would not have been possible. I am very sad that Mayor Stainchiak cannot be here for health reasons. But it is nice that he is represented by Romuald Piorko.

The holiday organized by Gudensberg for 26 Ukrainian youth in July was only possible with the help of the city of Jelcz-Laskowice. I can assure you, dear Mr. Mayor, your young people were very disciplined. Many new friendships have been formed and that is a good thing.

German young people have learned from Ukrainian young people and
Ukrainian young people have learned from our young people. The farewell tears on
both sides showed that. A return visit to Schtschyrez is planned for next year.

I thank the citizens of the city of Schtschyrez for the invitation to today's
city festival. Michailo issued that invitation in 2013 when
Parliament Speaker Walter Pippert and I were at the city festival for the first time, back then with a very small delegation.

For our male choir, this is a very good opportunity for mutual
getting to know each other. We are happy to have come. Almost all singers are in Ukraine for the first time!

The city council of Gudensberg and the chief of the volunteer fire department have instructed me to donate a total of € 1000 to the city of Schtschyrez for the establishment of a youth fire department. We see this as an important investment in the future of the city of Schtschyrez and its youth.

We are now looking forward to many pleasant encounters in Schtschyrez and to the fact that you will like our song contributions.

Slava Ukraini!'

Now our performance. It was a lot of fun! Great to perform in front of a large audience. Especially when the listeners really get into it.

In the evening, we had every reason to celebrate! We had a lot of fun ;-)

Originally, we were supposed to stay in a hotel directly in Lviv. Unfortunately, it turned out that there was a mistake in the booking. A replacement was quickly arranged. We were able to find accommodation in Pustomyty. The place is located between Lviv and Schtschyrez, our destination for tomorrow.

Off to the evening program in Lviv... Into a brewery restaurant with a large hall and a stage. We were able to go directly on stage. Our songs were very well received. A complete success. Singing in a choir is so much fun!

Unfortunately, there was not enough time for a city tour. We will make up for that in two days.