The days in Ohrid were cozy and beautiful. In the 'oldtown' hostel, there were many nice people and exciting stories. Some travelers I'm now meeting again were at earlier stops.

Among other things, I took a day boat tour across the lake. That was really lovely. Otherwise, the days were rather relaxed, and on one or two evenings, we watched soccer.

Today we head to Albania (Tirana).

I have been in Skopje for a few days now. The city is quite small and cozy... The time here is rather calm. Today, I spent a lot of time with Morgan (UK), whom I accidentally met at the hostel in Thessaloniki, and we realized that we were on the same bus to Skopje.

In the evenings, we mostly stayed at the hostel and watched football together. There isn't much happening in the city, and the way into town is a bit far.

Day #58

Saturday, June 27th.

From Trpejca to Librazhd

Country: North Macedonia / Albania

Shortly after departing, I arrive at Lake Ohrid and enjoy the road that gently wades along the lakeshore.

At first, there's a beautiful view as I enter Ohrid.

Following the recommendation from yesterday to explore the old town is spot on, with narrow alleys and an amphitheater.

It must be a new feature, as it offers an open Wi-Fi network.

I use it to take care of getting an eSim.

During that, I get caught in a conversation with a couple from England, which ends when the topic shifts to politics and wokeness.

In the end, it costs me only time, and I appreciate older people who can broaden their horizons.

I received the QR code for the eSim that will be valid in Albania, but how can I scan it?

So, first I need to find someone who can take a photo of it, so ...

It works.

But then the next problem arises, I need the internet to transfer my route from one app to another and then to the navigation system.

This is very frustrating, as all the information is available, but it’s the reality, and my time on the open Wi-Fi has expired.

Tomorrow again ...

So, I approach the next person for a HotSpot.

This also takes unnecessary time, and meanwhile, it’s getting hotter.

Once that's taken care of, I finally head off on the TransDinarica.

As I'm directed over a meadow and a snake crawls across my path, I can only shrug it off.

Climbs in the midday heat make me sweat profusely, and I have to take regular breaks.

Thus, I slowly but surely approach the next border.

Since I read that you still need to register with the police in Albania, I ask the border officer, but he only explains to me that on one window side is North Macedonia and on the other side is Albania.

Okay, thanks for that. I guess everything is in order.

After crossing the border, I take a break in the sun; the view is too magnificent. Foolish and rewarding.

From above, I have a wonderful view of the upcoming descent filled with many curves.

Promising, and the stretch is straightforward and the ground is good.

Cars overtake, which will likely remain the case for most, less narrow than advertised in the travel guide.

Except for one who cuts me off rudely due to oncoming traffic.

Oh, it's a guy from Aachen.

Via a beautiful road, far from the main routes, I continue inland through the mountains.

Always slightly downhill.

At a gas station, I get water, but unfortunately, the ATM is out of order.

Card payment is seldom possible in Albania.

Fortunately, I can pay with Euros without issues at the next supermarket.

Along the next stretch, a lot of construction is happening; could become a railway line. Hard to tell, the road also partially seems like a temporary setup, but is easy to drive on.

In Librazhd, I take the time to plan the next part of the trip.

Albanian Alps or Tirana, that is the question here.

Ultimately, the decision is made to drive through the capital.

I’m also feeling lazy, and it’s the more relaxing route.

Just behind the town, there is a water point. Fill up bottles and wash off the worst dirt from my arms and legs.

On the side of iOverlander, which Lotti and Valle brought me to, I saw that a good place to camp is supposed to be coming up soon.

But on my way there, I see an access to the river that looks promising.

So, I find an opportunity in time that I can utilize.

Including suitable trees, so I can finally pitch my hammock again.

Since I got pasta at the supermarket, I saw the bread too late, I cook once more.

Slowly, the stove is proving its worth.

Completely stuffed, I lie in the hammock and finally let myself be gently rocked into my sleeping bag.

Song of the Day:

Bonginator - All Cops Are Biomechs

Day #57

Friday, June 26th.

From Žabeni to Trpejca

Country: North Macedonia

We had agreed on a rough time to get up and have breakfast together.

Extensive coffee before we set off for Bitula, where we plan to stop at a supermarket.

Super convenient when someone waits outside and you can leave your bike with the electronics just standing there.

I am very pleased that there is real bread, with grains.

Everyone should have an ice cream, and then we go our separate ways.

Since this morning, I've been having problems with the derailleur; the chain keeps getting stuck on the small chainring.

Yet luckily, I am in the second-largest city in the country, even though it feels more like a big village to me.

So I ask for directions to an expert who can quickly fix the problem for me.

It makes more sense to take the opportunity than to make things worse.

At home, I must definitely learn how to do it myself, as I still lack the necessary knowledge.

On lonely roads, I ascend, and I am glad when I can cool off at a water source.

Cold, clear water. Wonderful.

At the entrance to the national park, there are warnings about bears. I already know that.

I briefly chat with a bikepacking couple coming towards me.

From them, I also learn that a Frenchman is traveling just ahead of me.

So much for my thoughts on when I might meet other bike travelers again; this seems to be a popular route.

The landscape is simply beautiful as well.

Passing a huge lake, the road steeply ascends.

No worries, there was also a thrilling descent in between.

It’s wonderful how the landscape continues to unfold beneath me as I happily and slowly work my way up the serpentines.

A very popular route among motorcyclists too; otherwise, there is pleasantly little traffic today.

When I reach the highest point, Lake Ohrid spreads out in front of me on the other side.

The view is spectacular, and on the map, I see that the descent will be winding.

That’s how it should be.

But for now, I pause and enjoy the moment.

A family vacationing here gives me a few eggs, a welcome change.

From them, I hear the comparison that the scenery resembles Heidi, and I can agree on that.

Oh yes, in the meantime, I have seen four more bike travelers coming towards me.

The descent is also incredibly good.

If it weren't so strenuous to return to the starting point, I would love to do it again.

In the process, I also set my all-time speed record, which I will better leave unnamed.

Along the road towards the lake, I find a suitable spot for a campsite.

However, since I forgot to stop in time to refill my water, I have to quickly return to the last village.

There is a possibility near the church.

Back at the potential campsite, a car is now parked.

Well, let's start the search anew, and a short distance further, I find a spot.

Somewhat less pretty, but covered and still close enough to the road.

I assume there is no national park here. With no internet, I have to rely on that, and as long as cars and motorcycles are cruising along the road, I feel good about not disturbing any animals.

The camp is quickly set up, and after dinner, it is already pitch dark, and time to crawl into the tent.

Song of the Day:

Boltcutter - Twenty One Cars

In the morning, we had to leave the hostel, but we arranged to leave the car in a cool garage and walked through the city along the same route the boys took at night so that we could compare both experiences. The city center is full of sculptures of various sizes, but we were most impressed by the enormous 24-meter tall statue of Alexander the Great, which is a pride of the state, though its official name is just 'The Horse Rider' due to disputes with Greece.

Sunburned like peanuts from the Macedonian sun, we crawled to the chilled car, each grabbing a nicely chilled can from the fridge, and drove towards our next stop, the Matka Canyon. We didn’t stay in the car long, as the canyon is located right by Skopje.

After walking through the canyon, it was time to find a place to sleep, and we settled on Lake Ohrid, which runs along the border with Albania. After an active day full of walking, we enjoyed sausages and went to sleep relatively peacefully.

For breakfast, we finished off the cake and went for a swim in the reservoir. Then we packed all our things and set off to Pristina - the capital city of Kosovo. There we visited a local restaurant where we all had coffee. We were surprised by the very reasonable prices, whether for drinks or food.

Our next stop was the Cathedral of Blessed Mother Teresa, where we wanted to go up to the tower, but after a few minutes of waiting in the elevator, we realized we were stuck on the first floor and couldn't get there without a guide. After that, we strolled around the city for a while and were surprised by the contrast between the old, crumbling houses and the luxurious hotels and villas.

For lunch, we had kebabs. The food was excellent and the portions were large. The price averaged around 3-4 euros. Then, after visiting a local shop, we left Pristina and continued to the 'Bear Sanctuary', which is basically a bear zoo. Fortunately, we didn't have to worry about which one would visit us at night, as we arrived in Skopje (the capital city of Macedonia) in the evening, where we booked accommodation in an apartment.

Next day, we walk from our accommodation to Goran's apartment, where he has prepared us a lovely breakfast. Afterwards, an insightful tour of Skopje follows, where Goran explains his city with all its special features. The heavily guarded NATO base, the zoo, the government district with its various embassies, museums, Orthodox churches and mosques, restaurants, monuments, and the impressive Alexander statue, as well as parks currently preparing for an international tennis tournament and the old town with its urban alleys are all included. The historical development of the region is also vividly conveyed to us. After enjoying about 40 cevapi and a following afternoon nap, we head back to the old town to enjoy the evening atmosphere. A restaurant that we certainly wouldn’t have visited on our own is a true delight. In a courtyard, we are served while musicians play traditional, local songs, creating a wonderful atmosphere.

Are you up for stories about hikes, wild climbs, kamikaze adventures, lonely caves and even more hiking?

Then don't click away and read on! :)

I didn't count the pictures attached above, but since it's currently taking a long time to load them, there will definitely be more than 5.

And you can also skip this step and opt for the many words instead of the many photos. 😃

___________________________________________

So, first of all:

ZDRAVO!

You can probably guess.

-That's 'Hello' in Macedonian.

(At the same time, it's the only word I've learned in those days and yet, by the way, I haven't used it once.)

But I'll start from the beginning:

I like humans.

Really.

I like having her around.

So not all of them.

Actually, very few of them.

Most of you know:

My real circle of friends is so small that I wouldn't even call it a circle.

It's much more of a point.

A friend point.

However, I really enjoy sharing beautiful things.

That's why I usually travel with at least two people.

And this adventure wasn't actually supposed to be a solo trip either.

Well, things were supposed to be different.

Spoiler:

It was the best thing that could ever happen!

__________________________________________

I was incredibly excited when it started.

So excited and euphoric.

Out of the comfort zone, into a country that I have spent 20 minutes dealing with when it comes up.

I booked a huge lodge for the first few nights.

High up with a view over the mountains and the Matka Canyon.

However, I only arrived at night.

I think it was around 1 o'clock.

And I couldn't even see my hand in front of my eyes, it was so dark.

That's why I was even more amazed when I opened my eyes the next day and saw THIS!

What can I tell you, you can see for yourself.

I don't know if you share my enthusiasm.

It never comes across like that in pictures anyway.

And I've never been to any mountains.

I maybe know the Teufelsberg, I know Kreuzberg and Prenzlauer Berg.

And yes, I've traveled a lot around the world, but only ever somewhere near the sea.

I thought it was simply stunning.

I was dead tired after only 3.5 hours of sleep.

But I was way too excited and so full of energy that I didn't want to stay in the accommodation for a minute longer.

After a turbo shower and brushing my teeth in the middle of the most beautiful scenery in the world, I just wanted to get going.

Unfortunately, my own stupidity kept me up for quite a long time that morning.

Where were my sunglasses?

I know for a fact that I still had them at the airport in Berlin.

And on the plane I still had it in my hand.

Or?!

Maaannnn!

She was just gone!!!

You know, I really have a thing with sunglasses.

I do not know what it is.

My wear and tear is so high that I now have difficulty counting my losses.

And the way they disappear or break is sometimes so absurd and strange that no one would believe me.

Not really.

I wrote to Ilja, the host of the lodge.

Maybe it was in the car he picked me up in from the airport.

But since it was still very early, I was prepared for the fact that he wouldn't answer me until much later.

Spoiler:

Then he really did.

It wasn't in the car, but he was kind enough to put his own in my house in the afternoon so I wouldn't be so blinded by the sun.

You can call it nice or pretty stupid. ;)

But well, he didn't know anything about me

'Sunglasses thing'.

PS: Guess who still didn't have their sunglasses back at the end of my trip...

As quickly as I got into my frustration with glasses, I got out of it just as quickly and I left the house with my heart pounding.

And suddenly found yourself in a fairytale world.

Everything seemed so unreal to me.

I was the only person for miles around.

I heard a moo every now and then, but other than that there was nothing.

Just this stark landscape.

The damn fresh air.

Hills, rock faces, lush green.

And the sun.

Like my big grin, it accompanied me virtually the entire day.

It took a little while to get back to a paved road from the lodge.

You don't even have direct neighbors up there.

But more on that later...

In any case, when I got to the bottom and without a specific destination, I decided to go left first.

I just followed the stream for a few minutes.

Not a car anywhere.

That changed when I first heard the sound of an engine, then saw the car drive past and finally heard braking.

A little girl rolled down the window.

Behind it, a man leaned forward and asked, in even worse English than I speak, whether he should give me a ride to the bus station.

No thanks.

You can kidnap and rob me AFTER your vacation.

Now I would like to see something else first.

No seriously, that was incredibly nice and of course I declined because I didn't want to take the bus, but it gave me a really great feeling.

Nevertheless, after this encounter I changed my mind and went back in the opposite direction.

And that was just spot on.

After about half an hour I came to a dam.

From there the path got a little steeper, but every single step was worth it.

The valley opened up.

Steep slopes rose far up to the left and right.

I was already getting a stiff neck from staring.

The water is everywhere in between.

Blue, green, turquoise, glittery.

And I'm somewhere in the middle.

It was an almost magical aura.

I already said before, simply a fairytale world!

I just ran.

I ran and was amazed.

I soaked it all up.

Wow, it was all beautiful!

I don't know how long I hiked, but I just thought it was crazy.

Everything.

However, I had a vague idea in the back of my mind that there would be caves somewhere that could only be reached from the water.

So, for better or worse, I had to go back to the boat rental that I had seen behind the dam.

Of course they first wanted to offer me a tourist tour on a larger motorboat with two dozen other people who left there every half hour, but:

No no, not with me, ma fränd!

I am self-sufficient and want to stay that way.

I asked for a kayak and wanted to know how many kilometers it was to the cave.

4 kilometers sounded doable.

Especially when the boat guy said I looked like a basketball player, so tall and athletic, I didn't see any problems with my plan. ;))

(Eyyy! He really said that.)

Maybe I underestimated the slight current and the fact that I couldn't even take a short rest without being pushed to the edge...but I got there.

At some point I really arrived.

But the whole trip I just thought how crazy this was.

How beautiful.

These sheer cliffs all around me.

Every now and then a boat and everyone waves.

And actually I always find it a little strange when strangers wave, but in fairytale land you can do that... ;)

Anyway, I reached the cave after about 2 hours.

And only by getting my feet wet.

Fuck! That was cold!!

But But But

I've never experienced anything like this.

Since I set out on this adventure alone and caught a time window in which no other boat was docking, I was completely alone.

The entrance to the cave promised excitement.

And from the first moment the cool, humid climate of the cave touches your skin, you feel like you're in another world!!

The ceiling was high.

You had to go down a long, very slippery staircase.

I was basically swallowed.

The darkness was so intense it was almost tangible.

The silence was so deep it was almost audible. Only interrupted by the dripping of water and the echo of my own breathing.

I really don't have the words to describe what I felt.

There were limestone formations everywhere that had formed over thousands of years.

They were reminiscent of fascinating sculptures.

The middle of the cave was colorfully lit.

So subtle that you could almost have thought the colorful shimmer was natural.

Basically the cave consists of 2 chambers.

One that you can walk through and a chamber that is under water.

In fact, it is said that it could be one of the deepest underwater caves in the world and definitely the deepest in Europe.

Unfortunately, no one has managed to submerge them yet.

The best diver has 'only' reached a depth of around 230 meters.

But it will probably go down infinitely deeper...

I have no idea how long I let this scenario play out.

In any case, when I heard other voices, it drove me back to the surface.

Back in the kayak.

Back to work.

I took a little more time than on the way there and let everything sink in.

I was stock still when I arrived at the boat rental.

There wasn't much left of the athletic basketball player, I'll tell you like it is.

But I was happy.

And that's all that matters!! :)

...

I was actually approached several times afterwards by various people who met me looking for something to eat.

For example, a woman from Moldova wanted to know how I was doing after my 'experience'.

She would have seen me from the motorboat.

Oh, no problem, it doesn't matter to me.

I'm a sporty mouse.

No, seriously.

The next night wasn't funny.

Regardless of the fact that I was suddenly extremely scared, all alone in this big house... on a mountain... with no neighbors... I really only survived the hours until morning with a lot of painkillers.

Current status of muscle soreness:

I still have to turn around in stages.

Also That night I didn't sleep as much as I should and in the morning I had pain in places I didn't even know I had.

All in all I was walking at a rather slow pace, but that changed when I left the house after the obligatory shower.

Smarter because of Ouch?

-not with me!

Well, no one can get me into the kayak for now, but I really wanted to go back to where I left the day before and see where the path would take me.

Said and done.

I started running.

Along the hiking trail.

Right on the rock walls.

Sometimes there was a handrail.

But sometimes not.

Sometimes the path was so wide that two people could easily walk past each other.

Sometimes not.

Sometimes it was only 3 meters downhill.

Unfortunately, sometimes the canyon would kill you if you don't watch where you step.

I would like to show you pictures of it here, but I'm more attached to my phone than my life.

That's why I did the most suicidal actions and climbed wherever I could and kicked my fear of heights in the ass so many times that day, but I usually had my cell phone in my pocket for protection and therefore didn't take any pictures the moments.

I've walked so far.

I was sweating so much.

It was easily 35 degrees.

I ran until a fence signaled me

'until here and not further!'

And That was good in many ways because I was pressed for time and I also felt like I would have been running forever otherwise.

In fact, I just couldn't stop.

Always wanted to know what was coming around the next turn.

Whether there is another piece of forest around the next corner or whether you have to press yourself against rocks to move forward.

I didn't want to miss any views that might open up there.

The whole panorama was just too stark.

It went up and down.

About stones.

Over winding paths.

Over slippery forest floors.

I often slipped and it was a miracle that I didn't fall.

For over half an hour no one came towards me or came after me.

Nobody went that far that day.

IT WAS PERFECT.

I still had to go back. :(

...

And since I've already written so much, I'll skip a bit at this point, end the Matka Canyon chapter and start a new one, which is called: SKOPJ E.

I was supposed to spend the last 2 nights here.

I had chosen a hotel boat to accommodate me and I was really excited.

On the city. To the hotel. On everything.

I was sad to leave the fairytale world, but also happy to be back in civilization.

Glad to somehow have people around me at night.

The area around the ship couldn't have been better.

Central & super beautiful.

I had everything you need here.

Restaurants, supermarkets, bars and statues everywhere.

Guys, Skopje is full of them.

Macedonia is such a poor country.

And everything is probably missing.

Except for statues.

No matter where you look.

These parts are everywhere.

And if you blink for a moment and open your eyes again, a new one has probably already been built...

I didn't do much except sleep.

Because here too I arrived relatively late.

But the next morning I was already done showering and having breakfast at 8:30.

Standing still is death!!

I knew roughly where I wanted to go, but HOW wasn't entirely clear to me.

That day I wanted to go to the Millenium Cross, which is at the top of Mount Vodno.

Not because I'm particularly religious, but because I just found this work so impressive in the pictures I saw.

Or rather, because I was overcome by curiosity when I spotted it from Skopje at night.

I need to improve myself:

I've even seen it from the plane.

It's just huge and with the lighting you just can't miss it

I knew there was an option to take a cable car to the top.

However, the station is quite high up, so I decided to take a taxi and then take the cable car to get further.

The first ride on the 'lift' should take place at 10 a.m.

The taxi stopped at the station around 9:30.

By the way, the journey in the car alone took us to a height that made my ears pop for a moment.

Astonishing!

So I said 'Bye' and quickly got myself an iced tea from the only stand far and wide.

No other people to be seen.

Hmmm.

Me in English:

When does the station open?

The lady in English:

Not at all. Construction site.

So Google lied.

I:

And how long does it take to walk?

She:

1 hour.

I looked at the cross, which you could see sticking out a little high up.

A little suspicious.

But it's good if she says so...

1 hour. No thing.

Of course I could have bought myself some water.

But I could have also put on real shoes that day.

Instead, I started running like this.

Already 33 degrees at 10 a.m.

In pines.

And without water.

But hey.

It just wasn't planned that way. :))

It was a paved path.

Similar to a serpentine road on an island.

Things just kept going uphill.

Sometimes more, sometimes less steep.

But always uphill.

After just 30 minutes I was cursing my negligence towards myself.

Water !

I needed water so bad!!

😆

No matter, couldn't change it.

Go on.

Every now and then I saw the cross between the treetops, but just one bend further on it disappeared and I had the feeling that I was moving further and further away from it.

The hour had now been reached and I was further away from my destination than the North Pole was from the South Pole.

I think I was just moaning and groaning now.

I can't say exactly because the loud music in my ears accompanied this monumental situation.

Anyway, I was soaking wet.

At some point a narrow forest path opened up on the side.

No sign, no notice, just nothing.

And of course you don't walk in the dark.

Of course, you don't go into an unknown area of the forest without a plan of where or if you'll get out again.

So I preferred to continue following the official road.

Yes, exactly!

As if.

On the forest path I asked myself for the first time whether my chosen footwear might not have been a bit unsuitable for this mission.

Maybe I was a bit unreasonable to do this marathon without water.

Whether I might not be completely closed anymore.

-------------------------------------------------- ----------------

It was damn steep.

Damn rocky.

And damn exciting.

And I can only keep repeating:

It wasn't planned that way.

And at some point, after a long time (similar to the kayak) I really arrived.

At some point the forest path led me directly to my destination.

Right in front of me is the Millennium Cross

It is approximately 66 meters high.

A steel framework in the shape of a cross.

Excerpt from Wikipedia:

'The cross is a symbolic construct. The foundation consists of four pillars, corresponding to the four evangelists . The basement has 12 columns corresponding to the 12 apostles . The cross is built of 33 floors. This corresponds to the 33 years of Jesus' life.'

I was probably grinning completely crazy when I finally arrived.

I was dirty and even had sand on my face.

(Don't ask, I don't know myself)

But I had finally made it to the summit.

It was planned for the 2000th anniversary of Christianity and built shortly afterwards.

Believe it was inaugurated in 2002.

I thought it was a shame that you couldn't go up, that was possible in the past, but my body is certainly very grateful for it. ;)

The fact is, the hike was awesome.

The surroundings and the general view over the city were breathtaking.

Despite all the hardships, it couldn't have been a nicer morning.

I chilled for another hour, took pictures, then slowly made my way down because I still had plans for the day.

And oh well.

Because I am who I am, this time I followed a small arrow that (of course) didn't point in the direction of an asphalt road...

Looking back, I think:

It probably wasn't particularly smart.

I may have said that out loud to myself after a few minutes.

It was steep.

So that's right.

I sometimes had to crawl backwards on all fours because I had no grip at all.

I was in the middle of the forest.

On a mountain.

On a trail that was certainly not suitable for tired city dwellers like me.

Heard nothing but my panting and heartbeat.

I climbed more than I ran.

Going downhill seemed so much more strenuous than going uphill.

I still had to laugh.

I had stories in my head about the true crime stuff that I always fall asleep to.

Stories of women who disappear while hiking.

And never show up again.

And if then dead.

Killed by some stranger.

But it's probably more realistic that I die 'by my own hand'.

Cause of death: stupidity.

😆

Nope, I'm not ready yet.

There is still so much to see.

And I did it too.

Sometime.

And I even had perfect timing because when I got back to the starting point there was a bus that took me back to the city.

After an ice-cold shower, I headed off to my obligatory vacation appointment and then the day was basically over.

The next morning I had no plan at all.

So really none.

I just went for it.

And I had often been able to see a small part of a former fortress that was very close by and that day I was spontaneously drawn in that direction.

It was so cool to just go with the flow.

Here, too, I was not disappointed with what presented itself at the end.

And I was increasingly certain that no one in their right mind would willingly take part in ANYTHING (or anything at all).

It was a good thing that I was alone from start to finish!

With all my crazy excursions on this trip.

With all my incredibly stupid ideas.

With all the selfies at dizzying heights.

At no time did I feel lonely or want anyone by my side. (excluding the one night in the lodge)

In a way, this was the most beautiful and intense journey of my life so far.

And definitely not the last one alone!

And because I haven't said anything about a few things yet.

And because I've already written way too much.

And because I actually really need to sleep, here are just a few bullet points:

The Macedonians are pretty nice.

Sometimes a little inattentive.

But never intrusive.

The taxi drivers I met were all scammers.

The food is absolutely delicious and very cheap.

The beer is tasty.

There are street dogs everywhere.

Everyone is really nice, but mostly rather indifferent when it comes to people.

Mother Theresa was born in Skopje.

all in all:

I didn't expect anything and I'm overwhelmed.

And.

By the way.

Just one:

I just found THIS HERE in an article on the internet when I wanted to read up on exactly when the Millennium Cross was built again

"...Difficult hike. Very good physical condition required. Good sure-footedness, sturdy shoes and alpine experience necessary..."

Ha!!!!!!!

So:

If you want to experience something, just come with me.

You may regret it, but you will like it. ;)

OVER & OU T.

MARKUS:

I accompanied Tanja for almost two months, now she continues alone. However, you are never really alone when traveling, unless you want to be.

I experience the first real culture shock after almost 22 hours of bus travel (after more than five hours at the external border to the EU, which has truly developed into a fortress) just behind the German border at a rest stop: I'm sitting with a mediocre four euro coffee in my mouth Hand, chatting and laughing with almost thirty people from North Macedonia at tables. Mind you, very few of them knew each other before, everyone already has a day's trip under their belt. But no one is complaining. We drink, smoke and laugh. Camera panning to the left: German drivers sit scattered in groups of two, obediently respecting each other's privacy - preferring to stand rather than sit in free seats next to others - and have isolated, muffled conversations. I share my observation and receive an answer from an Albanian who has been living and working in Germany for six years: "That's how the Germans are, anti-social (he doesn't mean this in a derogatory way, but in the sense of inhibited from communicating). Everyone builds their own security space and that's it "Hello can be seen as an invasion of privacy" (he actually says this almost verbatim and speaks fantastic German). And he ends with a joke that makes me a little proud: "You're a strange German. Two months through the Balkans and now here on the bus. We have to do this, we work in Germany and can't afford anything other than 35 hours Bus ride. But you don't have to and you do it anyway. You're either crazy or a criminal." Those who speak German well enough to understand him laugh. And I was the loudest with it.

What remains after these weeks? - An attempt at catchphrases (with somewhat unobjective generalizations and a bit of a sense of mission;):

(Almost) all people are great. So many encounters with people from different cultures and backgrounds and everyone, really everyone, was warm, open-minded and interested in telling their stories and listening to ours. People are overwhelmingly great!

Help is coming. Are you lost? You don't have the money for an overnight stay or to continue your journey? Help is coming. And always exactly when you no longer expect them. Prerequisite: approach people openly, smile, talk, give away what you don't need at the moment and be helpful and shareable yourself. People like to help. Altruism is a natural instinct. Actually, this conclusion could also be: We reap what we sow.

Nothing is permanent. Time is relative in our own opinion, but a minute always lasts 60 seconds. Everything comes and goes at the same pace. Therefore, enjoy the beautiful moments, be in the present as often as possible and completely with the person who is accompanying you. And when it sucks - and yes, traveling can really suck! - it is very comforting and empowering to know that this time will not last either.

Make a decision. Every model of life is located between the poles of security and freedom and has its value. How we live is up to each and everyone. Just: make a conscious decision and don't just follow a model that "just happens like that".

MARK:

Andrea from Vienna, whom we have met several times on our trip, is also returning to the Balkans. This time together with Lucie from Prague. We arrange to meet for a short road trip through the Mavrovo National Park and the two of you pick us up in Gostivar, where we have met Villy in the meantime. Villy is 80 and, as a former guest worker, speaks fluent German and invites us to a cafe right at the door of our house upon arrival. He drinks cappuccino himself. After 10 minutes (our cups are empty lengthwise) he first grabs the sugar and sweetens the coffee. Another 10 minutes pass before Ed empties the second packet and another ten minutes until he stirs for the first time. When Billy takes a small sip from his cup for the first time, what feels like an hour has passed and we know Villy's life story and family. In the meantime, an acquaintance of Villy's from the next table intervened and bought us a second espresso. It can't be that we're sitting in front of empty races 😂 The coffee culture of the Balkans is just wonderful! It is with a heavy heart that we cannot accept Villy's invitation to live with him. The tour plan is set and Lucie and Andrea, as short vacationers, unfortunately don't have the luxury of measuring their time in traveler categories...

The reunion with Andrea is warm and beautiful. How beneficial not to have to start from scratch. Now the four of us visit the orthodox monastery of Sveti Jovan Bigorski, make a detour to the really magnificent Duf waterfall, see the former village church of Mavrovo, which is regularly flooded depending on the water level of the lake of the same name, and climb almost 1000 meters to a peak whose Name I forgot, but with its almost 2200m you can almost call it alpine. We meet shepherds with huge flocks of sheep, cuddle the puppies of the shepherd dogs and enjoy a great view of the surrounding valleys.

To be honest: everything is beautiful, the hike is one of the most exciting ascents of our trip so far and the Duf Waterfall is something very special with its rock breakthrough, but at some point a monastery is just a monastery and a mountain is a mountain. The pictures speak for themselves and need no explanation. The real beauty is to travel together again, to get to know Andrea better, to look after Lucie a little after her nightly fish poisoning in our hostel... in short, to experience some continuity of friendship after so many days of travel. With each day of travel, the sightseeing spots become more irrelevant and the encounters come to the fore.

We spend our last evening together first swimming, then drinking wine on the balcony, meanwhile back in Ohrid.

MARKUS:

Short tour description, because practically nothing happened.

After a bus and taxi ride, we arrive in Popova at the foot of the eponymous mountain, surrounded by ski lifts that stand still in the summer but still spoil the landscape.

No hiking routes, maps or markings to be found. So we climb the nearest hill, set up our tent (second dumb idea: cold 7C at night in a summer sleeping bag), and look forward to a starry sky in the mountains. Unfortunately, the clouds spoil our plans, so we pack up the next day and hitchhike on the road. Any destination will do, just get away.

Conclusion: Even though the photos look nice, Popova Shopka wasn't for us. But that may just mean that on that day we weren't able to get anything good out of the place for ourselves...

At least the first car stops. Ida, an Albanian living in Hamburg who is hosting her daughter's wedding in Skopje, gives us a ride back to Skopje.

MARKUS:

The most beautiful thing is when you make a mistake and are positively surprised.

Actually, we now avoid larger cities and only travel to Skopje to meet Milan, who is currently on Interrail. So we are even more frustrated when we find out, still on the bus and a few kilometers before Skopje, that Milan has been denied entry because his passport no longer has the required validity period. Actually, we had hoped to rely on the laid-back mentality of the Balkans. But it seems that this does not apply to customs officials... So suddenly we find ourselves in the capital of North Macedonia and mourn the 600 inhabitants of the village of Lin in Albania.

The surprise is even greater and more joyful when Skopje presents itself to us the next day as an incredibly exciting, relaxed, quirky and lovable city in its peculiarity.

How do you describe Skopje? Take Rome (but not the real one, rather a cheap plaster cast of it), mix it with Berlin in the 1990s (especially the Eastern part) and pour it all over with Sarajevo and a little bit of Istanbul. But somehow that's not enough.

The city is filled with monumental fountains and statues in the style of Greek and Roman antiquity or alternatively the 19th century. No bridge can do without its Olympia or Zeus, no column without its lion or Alexander the Great. Everywhere there are depictions of the 'great sons' of Macedonia (who are actually the daughters?). Only that almost everything is dated to the time after 2010 and looks exactly the same. It seems that the government at that time desperately tried to impose a historical narrative on the young state. A young Macedonian woman later tells us that this was also about defining their identity separate from Albania.

In between are the few remains that were spared by the earthquake of 1963, combined with the socialist architectural sins of the Tito era and architectural curiosities brought in by architects from the 60s who helped rebuild the city after the earthquake (mainly from Italy, but also Japan). And in the middle of it all is the intertwined grand bazaar, which actually looks more like an old town...

Confusing, exciting, surprising, new, old, dirty, relaxed, kitschy, a magnificent city that simply leaves me speechless.

And here, too, we only encounter lovely and open-minded people. And again and again, a partly expressed, partly inherent longing to belong to Europe, to be accepted into the EU, to be perceived as a nation...

I am incredibly curious about the next few days in North Macedonia...

Edit:

Ida, an Albanian living in Hamburg, gives us a lift to Skopje. On the way, over a coffee, she talks about her disillusionment with politics and the strained relationship between Albania and Macedonia. Both reports will continue to come up again and again.

This is also the case when we get to know a veteran of the Macedonian army in the Matka Canyon, an hour outside Skopje. He lets us use his boat for a ride on the lake in the canyon and proudly shows us his hut that he built in the canyon and where he regularly retreats. The Kosovo War has clearly left its mark on him. He repeatedly speaks about the injustice of the border demarcation after the war, soberly states that there is nothing you can do when politicians decide, but that it is important to fight to survive.

A young woman we meet at the Millennium Cross also shows frustration with politics. She asks a lot about the state of climate policy in Germany and points out how her country is still at the beginning here.

With every encounter, Skopje becomes more likeable to me. For example, Martin, whom we also meet in the canyon, who asks us 1001 questions and immediately invites us to a Rainbow Gathering. The people here are incredibly interested, although I still have difficulties with the omnipresent nationalism.

On the other hand, we are reconciled when we accidentally stumble upon the international Folk Dance Festival on our last evening, which brings us closer to the costumes and dances of the Balkans. The other harmless side of nationalism...

TANJA:

Experience Ohrid bustling and relaxed. We feel right at home in 'Villa Flora' and explore the charming old town, which can be reached along the lakeshore via a green hill, the old town park. There, a mystical Orthodox chapel stands, seeming to float above the lake.

In the harbor district, Ohrid shows a completely different side: a party mile, nightlife, indulgence, and strolling are the order of the day. However, you can quickly escape by taking one of the interconnected bridges across the lake in a narrow alleyway and comfortably reclining on one of the free loungers.

Unfortunately, our super nice and affordable 'Villa Flora' no longer has a room for us that night, so we have to find a campsite by the lake for the meantime. Not so easy to find, and when we set off for an English comedy show at Jazz-in, a very nice and rustic jazz club in the old town, we are not quite sure if the water will have flooded our tent by the time we return...

Well, first we have a funny comedy evening, during which the North Macedonian comedian talks about national stereotypes and the interesting relationship between sons and their mothers on the Balkans. Of course, as Germans, we also get our fair share as red light standers, awe-inspiring uniformed individuals, and incorrigible perfectionists.

After a 50-minute nighttime march, partly through the water and over fences, to our 'campsite', I suddenly realize that I left my little bag with all my documents and money at Jazz-in. So, it's panic mode, turn back for everything. While I wait shivering in a cafe halfway, Markus sprints off. When he arrives, Jazz-in is bursting at the seams with guests. The bartenders search the entire place, presenting one bag after another, Markus becomes more and more desperate. The bag seems untraceable. And finally, the relieving grip. Markus sinks exhausted and relieved onto the counter, which prompts the bartender to offer him a vodka on the house to recover (and jokingly makes other guests suspect that he intentionally left the bag behind to secretly come for a drink 😂).

Arriving back at the tent, it seems to have already taken a few waves. But we simply don't care and go to sleep.

Fortunately, everything went well.

The next day, we take it easy and simply relax and swim at and in the beautiful lake.

MARKUS:

Conclusion after two stays in Ohrid: you can really enjoy it here! Deeply relaxed and vibrant at the same time.

Ohrid is divided somewhat along the coast according to people's wealth. While the pebble beaches near the harbor are mainly visited by tourists from the surrounding European countries and affluent Macedonians, there are small wooden huts as accommodations on the long beach about 40 minutes away, where less wealthy families can afford a weekend by the lake. And even here, people dance at night, sit together, laugh, smoke, drink, and above all, eat for a long time and extensively.

The connecting piece between the two worlds is a steep coast, where a small group of the Rainbow Gathering Family has gathered on a small pebble beach during our second stay, who still can't get enough of being together after a month in Mavrovo National Park (or maybe they simply have no alternative). Too bad we couldn't follow Martin's invitation from three days ago. We would have gladly joined the closing ceremony for the full moon...

MARKUS:

OK, we hardly saw anything of the national park, but instead just drove through. But: we were compensated with a wonderful overnight stay on the edge of the national park.

Daniela safely navigated us to a place by the lake in the middle of nowhere and pleased us with a short serenade on her bagpipes during dinner. Well, actually she just tuned her instrument, but for us amateurs it sounded damn authentic like the Highlands and Scottish Traditional 😂

Our first campfire of the trip and a fantastically clear starry sky round off the night and happily we climb into our tent again.

The name says it all. The Rocky trail leads us over karst rocks and huge boulder fields at an altitude of almost 1800m. We don't encounter a single person on the entire way, so I secretly hope to come across lynxes or bears. Of course, in vain. Still, an exciting hike, past huge bicycles, across small streams, and with a fantastic view of the valley from the peak.

MARKUS:

Just a short stop on our road trip with Daniela.

It feels a bit strange to walk along souvenir stands and a beach promenade with bathers on the way to an Orthodox monastery from the 10th century(!).

Saint Naum itself is breathtaking! Even without a strong spiritual inclination, the interior of the monastery has a palpable power, so I actually have an inner monologue in a church for the first time in many years and thank myself for the privilege of being able to make this trip. On the way to the monastery, I notice that people keep stopping their cars by the roadside to pray or light candles at small chapels or statues of Mary, which are located on the side of the main roads. It is therefore not surprising that many visitors to the monastery lie flat on the ground in front of one of the holy pictures, pressing their cheek to the side, to pray, I suppose. However, it is unusual for Central Europeans to stroke money over holy pictures of saints and Mary, leave some of it as a donation, and then take the rest. Everyone tries to achieve material prosperity in their own way...

The rest of the surrounding park is quickly explored and mostly uninteresting, although we are very happy to come across a peacock here.

TANJA:

As you can see, there are only a few photos, although the little bay in Trpjeca was outstandingly beautiful. This may be due partly to the fact that we were looking for a restaurant there that offers the original Ohrid Lake fish for our driver, but also to the fact that everything here seemed to be in a slightly more sophisticated category, both in terms of prices and guests. A person from Vorarlberg offered us free tickets for a classical concert at the Ohrid Summer Festival, as they preferred to stay in the bay with a glass of wine.... Unfortunately, we have to decline with thanks, as we naturally have to follow our driver. In any case, a beautiful place for the more upscale tourist. On to the next destination...]]>https://vakantio.de/en/blog/tanjas-kleines-mirakel/trpjeca-kristallklarer-ohridsee-saint-tropez-von-albanienhttps://vakantio.de/en/blog/tanjas-kleines-mirakel/trpjeca-kristallklarer-ohridsee-saint-tropez-von-albanienThu, 10 Aug 2023 10:31:00 GMT40.960575520.7830223

Yesterday morning I started in bright sunshine and 24 degrees. We quickly went into the mountains where it was a bit cooler. Greece is really worth a visit, as I wrote in previous posts, very nice people and great landscapes.

My navigation system once again calculated nonsense, wanted to get me off this really great road, lead me through a village, and then back onto this road. I noticed it a little too late, got off to realize that it's easier to stay on the old route. After an underpass, I turned around, I had seen the water on the road, it came from a spring, the water flowed from the shoulder onto the road. This is not unusual in the countries I have traveled to. What I had not seen, however, was that there was a thin layer of slippery slime where the road was wet. Berta didn't like that at all. I didn't realize what had happened so quickly, I just heard the typical sound of scraping metal on asphalt, Berta and I were lying on the road against the direction of travel. I think she just didn't want to turn around. But that's not how it goes either.

First I checked if everything was still there or if there were any misalignments of limbs, thankfully not. Berta was also fine, I just haven't found out yet which metal kissed the road, nothing to find except for a worn plastic cap on the suitcase (Mathias' work!!). Well, first off with the helmet, off with the jacket. I tested the puddle, it was really just as bad as ice. Then first attempt to lift Berta again, didn't work. I sat down and waited, eventually someone has to come by. But nobody came, ok, unload the luggage, remove the suitcase, then it went, then it was easy to get Berta back on the wheels.

I hadn't fully extended the side stand yet when a car came, while I was rearranging my luggage, 5 more cars came. Oh man.😬

Well, the journey could continue, soon the North Macedonian border was reached, crossing the border was completely problem-free and only took a few minutes. After the border, I still had about 50 km to Lake Ohrid, where I stayed in the city of the same name for two nights.

Today was shopping, sightseeing and taking care of the motorcycle.

Ohrid has a very nice old town, if you move away from the tourist crowds. The pedestrian zone itself is paved with souvenir, shoe, and silver jewelry shops. Ideal for shopping queens, for men there were plenty of ice cream parlors and street cafes.

In the city center there were some mighty trees to admire, partly already split open, the trunk only remaining in fragments, supported with steel so that it could still hold the mighty crown.

After I was back at my accommodation, I took care of Berta a little bit more. The road contact case was temporarily made rainproof with duct tape and a little spray oil here and there. I hope that Berta is satisfied now and won't throw me off again.

Tomorrow I'm heading to Albania, I actually wanted to go through Kosovo, but due to the ongoing tensions between Serbia and Kosovo and a travel warning from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, I'd rather not.

Addendum. I have already seen many run-over snakes on the roads. However, the reptile in the photo is not a snake, but a lizard, similar to our slow worm, which according to Google can grow up to 1.4m long. Turtles and lizards are also common.

On the way to Albania, Tirana, a stop at Lake Ohrid is definitely recommended, offering the opportunity to get to know North Macedonia from a different perspective. The region around one of the oldest lakes in the world and the charming old town has become one of the most famous destinations in North Macedonia. The lake is estimated to be between 3-5 million years old and provides a home for many species of animals that do not exist anywhere else in the world. So once again, the aspect of education would be fulfilled. Knowledge.

Today, the old town attracts numerous guests who stroll along the inviting lakeside promenade and through the steep streets. The traditional town houses built into the slope and medieval churches are especially beautiful in combination with the crystal-clear Lake Ohrid and the wild, natural mountain panorama.

In addition to a few hotels, stylish souvenir and jewelry shops, there is also a nice selection of cafes and restaurants that are well-visited on a sunny Saturday. The town pleasantly surprised me and is really worth seeing.

On a nice parking lot right on the shore, you can reach the town in just a few minutes along the beautiful pedestrian path. Here I meet some other van and motorhome travelers again.

I definitely don't want to leave out the fact that there is a DM market here, as it made me feel close to home once again. Nothing creates a more familiar feeling of being at home than having a shelf full of organic spreads right in front of you.

Today is a holiday in North Macedonia. The lake, my current home, is today the most popular destination around Prilep, for young and old. I'm not used to so many people. Like a shy deer, I retreat into the mountains at noon, where I'm also going bouldering today with crash pads and some topo information from the internet. During my research, I came across an email address of someone who rents out crash pads and sells topos here. Great thing, it even worked out spontaneously. The session was fun.

The people I meet here don't initially seem very open, but they are very friendly and relaxed. As the only tourist around, I naturally stand out a bit and you can tell that tourism, if anything, is slowly reaching this country, which has a lot to offer with its culture and nature.

About 7km outside the city is an idyllic reservoir that borders the bouldering area 'Kamena Baba'.

There are several spots by the reservoir where you can stand. When I arrive in the morning, there is peaceful tranquility here, as no one else ventures out except for one or two anglers. However, in the afternoon, that changes and the reservoir becomes a popular destination for some locals. Families and couples stroll along the shore, young boys and girls cruise around on their skates and swim, anglers fish, and others enjoy a well-deserved evening beer... Relaxed atmosphere...

Occasionally, trucks pass by, extracting white marble in the visible distance. The region is known for that as well. However, they don't solely rely on motorized vehicles, as the good old horse-drawn carriage is still used here, and not uncommonly either. Throughout the day, several carriages loaded with goods passed by. It's somehow comforting to see that this millennia-old method is still in use in an increasingly technologized world full of Teslas and e-scooters. Especially in countries like North Macedonia, Albania, but also in other nations of the Balkan Peninsula, such images often create a strong contrast between a simple, traditional way of life and the increasingly modern lifestyle. So, Mercedes AMG and a horse-drawn carriage share a road. In a stylish café, trendy drinks are enjoyed while negotiations are ongoing across the street at the bazaar, where self-grown fruits and vegetables are still weighed with a classic balance scale in the market hall. Somehow, everything blends together, creating a colorful and vibrant scene, where even a carriage still has its relevance.

The bouldering area was easily explorable on foot from the reservoir. A unique rock landscape, where the higher you go, the better the view of the city of Prilep. The surrounding mountainous area is sparsely populated.

The many boulders are scattered throughout the terrain, waiting to be climbed with a few skillful moves. Or, somewhat skillful like me today, without topography and crash pad. However, I did have my climbing shoes with me, and I actually found a few boulders where I could establish my own routes. It was much more fun than I thought, as I had hoped to meet some other climbing dudes here. However, so far I haven't seen any other tourists, let alone other campers. But that's okay because the area has a lot to offer, and I enjoy being off the beaten path of traditional tourism.

Since yesterday I am traveling alone again on the streets of the Balkans. Naturally a bit sad, because we experienced a lot in the last two months. Thank you for the great time Jessi.

Today I am back in full travel mode and looking forward to the next adventurous part of my journey. But before I am finally on the road again with my closest companion Bürsti, there is still a visit that I am particularly excited about, and not just since yesterday. One week together in Albania. Only 8 days to go. Can't wait.

Back in road trip mode, North Macedonia is practically on the way from Peloponnese to Albania.

From Diakopto, in the north of Peloponnese, I started yesterday towards Prilep, the 4th largest city in North Macedonia. On the almost 600 km trip, a stop near Ioannina, a city in northern Greece, is possible.

Yesterday's drive was not one of those relaxed drives where you cruise happily and full of anticipation through the countryside, but rather one where you wonder why you're even doing it.

The toll was almost outrageously expensive. The ferry wasn't running either, so I had to take the new bridge, which costs over 20 EUR alone. The alternative of driving without tolls is only a real option if you have enough time and strong nerves to drive on routes in the middle of nowhere where you spend 45 minutes for 10 km.

Bürsti had to suffer a lot on these roads. Potholes, inclines, bends, etc., although that somehow belongs to it and was only a small taste of what to expect in North Macedonia.

Today straight to Macedonia. Smooth until the border. Then the customs officer asked for insurance, which I didn't know about and what it was for. Although I still don't know, the lady's message was clear: 'buy insurance or go.' Very friendly, I didn't have to think twice about it. You could buy the document in a small 'office', which doesn't really deserve the name office, at least not from our top standardized Central European point of view. After all, I wasn't in an EU country anymore, which apparently is also the reason for this overpriced, unnecessary document. When entering the room through a faded, colorful fly net, it felt like I had traveled a few decades back in time. The shelves were empty except for a few half-empty, dusty bottles of cleaning agents. A cleaning cloth lay perfectly on the huge printer, which occupied half of the room. The blinds hung crooked and almost completely lowered on the windows. Too much daylight is simply not good for the working atmosphere. Two small, worn-out sofas also created a cozy atmosphere. One of the two well-built men was sitting behind two monitors, which reminded me of the ones from my school days - and they were already retro back then. The other man sat opposite him, smoking, with an espresso and a mobile phone in his hand. Both were highly motivated and couldn't wait to fill out such a form for me. I don't like to disturb, thought I, because if it were up to me, I wouldn't need you to issue me such an 'important' paper.

One of the two took pity on me and took down my details. I couldn't hope for an explanation of what this insurance is actually needed for, because the official was a man of few words, as I quickly realized.

Then the bill came to 50 EUR, which of course could only be paid in cash. However, I was supposed to pay 60 EUR. The 10 EUR, it was said briefly and succinctly in response to my inquiry, were for bank transfer and/or fees.

Anyway... After this situation alone, I knew again why I love to travel and why I feel more and more comfortable in the Balkans. Here you definitely experience something, and you can't get more authenticity than that. So no negative judgment at this point. The two men are just doing their job and were also friendly.

After the border, I wished for the Greek roads again. Potholes as big as if comets regularly hit here.

Nevertheless, I was fully enthusiastic about this wild country, which reminded me a bit of Albania but also has its own character. Hopefully, I can tell you more in a few days.

I arrived in Prilep, the 4th largest city in North Macedonia, around noon. About 60,000 people live in this lively but manageable city. The city is mainly known for the cultivation of high-quality tobacco. These plants are called 'Gold Prileps' and are highly valued worldwide. Many well-known cigarette manufacturers source their tobacco from here.

I quickly reached the city center by bike, which I immediately liked because there is a bit of life and plenty to discover here. Many small shops that sell, for example, cheese. Many cafes and bars that are not quite as fancy and modern as in Greece but still look inviting. Everywhere, like at a bazaar, clothes, sunglasses, and phone cases are sold. The market hall is my highlight. First of all, well supplied with fresh food. The people are once again super friendly and relaxed. I found a new SIM card for internet here, only for 5 EUR, 14 GB. Carefree surfing for the next few days, for sure. It couldn't be going any better.

In the evening, I ended up in a supermarket that was like a small Metro. The best store ever. A product selection that suits my taste perfectly. Even milk alternatives, good coffee, and cheese. Endless sweets. Börek. Etc. I will visit again tomorrow, this time by car.

Furthermore, tomorrow I will visit the bouldering area 'Kamena Baba', which is one of the few tourist 'attractions' here and for which I actually came here. North Macedonia seems to be hardly touristy in general, which makes it even more exciting...

Thursday 13.04.

Today is one of those days where we are very undecided on how to proceed, whether to stay or continue. We decide to take the middle path, which means getting everything ready to leave for the next town with a laundromat, but coming back later. We also need some cash and the fridge is looking rather empty. So, we go and get some money to feed the laundromat, put the smelly laundry in the machine, and 40 minutes later we are already in front of the supermarket to satisfy our cravings. On the way back, we realize that our gas supply is running dangerously low and we urgently need to find a refill. Unfortunately, we have no luck at the first few gas stations. They refuse to fill our gas bottle due to hefty fines. In Italy, it is strictly forbidden to refill camping gas bottles at gas stations for tax reasons. Penalties of up to 5000€ can be imposed. Unfortunately, our Italian connections are not strong enough to convince a gas station attendant to do it anyway. So, we will have to drive on a low flame until we find a place to refill the bottles.

Back at the parking spot, we hang the laundry to dry in 100km/h wind speed, only to fold dry and fresh laundry into the closets after just 30 minutes. As a reward, we have a delicious coffee at our favorite place and the day is almost over.

Friday 14.04.

We have been parking right in front of a giant facility with Pozzelle for more than 4 days and we still haven't managed to take a closer look at them. Today, on our departure day, we finally manage to do so. Pozzelle is a rainwater storage system that was widely used in many places to ensure water supply during the hot summer months. Through the filtration process, it was possible to use it as drinking water. It is a very interesting system that still theoretically works today.

As we are about to leave, we are approached by an elderly man who has worked in Germany for many years, including in Pirna, where Mathennsi comes from. Within seconds, the two find common ground and begin reminiscing about various places around Pirna that they both know. But eventually, even the most pleasant conversation about home comes to an end, and we finally have to leave to complete today's stage.

On the way to Locorotondo, we fill up the motorhome with water and try our luck at various gas stations to solve the gas problem. Even a company that refills household gas bottles and exchanges camping gas bottles cannot or does not want to help us. Apparently, they don't even know where their bottles are refilled. However, an Italian camping gas bottle is of no use to us, as we have a completely different connection. Well, then forget it. We'll find something eventually. Hope dies last, as they say.

Arriving in Locorotondo, we park at the local sports field next to two other campers. The weather looks a bit rainy at the moment, but we dare to go out and explore the old town. After just 15 minutes, we return at a brisk pace and only get slightly wet. It rains heavily for the next few hours and we make ourselves comfortable in the motorhome and enjoy the rainbow.

In the evening, the weather clears up again and we set off again to implement the plan from the afternoon. The old town is really worth seeing with its narrow streets and beautiful buildings. We are a little bit in love with the old town. Back in the motorhome, we have a small game session and then it's time for bed.

Saturday 15.04.

Sunshine and blue skies. Hundi has had enough of lounging around and wants to go out into the green. So, we head out for a nice walk that we have planned using mapsME. Part of the route takes us past small parks and many small plantations with all kinds of trees and plants. We encounter a small sports trail that we partially master very well, but also fail miserably at certain exercises (e.g. pull-ups).

Layla really likes it here and she hops and runs around. Along the way, we also come across Trullis, which are houses with cone-shaped roofs. They were common in this area for a long time and the next town on our list has become a UNESCO World Heritage Site. However, since they are heavily used for tourism there, we decide to crawl under a fence here and take a look at a vacant original Trullo. So, we can save a stop in Alberobello. On the way back, we stop at a model car race track to capture it in pictures for our dear friend Mirko. We then continue to the Agricultural Institute, where a lot of money was invested many years ago. Unfortunately, nothing has happened here for years and at least the botanical garden is just barely holding on. It's a shame. Behind a gate, we discover a beautiful park, the gate is open, so we go in. Uh, sorry... we just crashed a photo shoot... :-) The only ones who find it funny are the two of us though.

Back at the motorhome, we make a plan for the next steps and the washing machine is also running. We drive through the town with Trullis to Acquaviva della Fonti. When we arrive there we are lucky to park right next to an Olympic training center where national competitions are taking place. Unfortunately, it's raining again and we can only guess from the motorhome what's happening in the facilities. In the evening, the weather calms down a bit and Ani takes Hundi out for another little walk. This ends with Mathennsi in a state of great worry and Ani with Hundi relaxed at the competitions. After about 1.5 hours, they both return and Mathennsi is waiting outside the motorhome with a knife in his hand, already extremely worried and imagining the worst stories. When a "I'm just going out with Hundi for a short walk" turns into an almost 2-hour tour...

Sunday 16.04.

Rain, rain, rain

In a small break in the rain, we go to the old town to take a look around. However, it doesn't offer much except for the fact that on Sunday noon, the whole population is out on the streets again. While in Germany everyone is waiting at home for lunch, it's prime time in Italy. Everyone meets to chat, drink coffee, and the children play on the streets. Every inch is explored in a short time, and we make our way back. We briefly visited the stadium where the last competitions are taking place. It starts to rain again. The motorhome will be the focal point of all further activities today. Playing games, reading, crafting, painting, Hundi, movies, coffee, chocolate, wine, and chips - and eventually going to bed. But before that, we check the weather forecast, which doesn't look good for next week.

Monday 17.04.

During our morning coffee, we decide that we've had enough of Apulia and will head to Albania. We book the ferry between breakfast and departure, and off we go to Bari, where our ferry is scheduled to depart at 22:00 today. On the way, we grab some supplies for the crossing and park ourselves in the harbor. There is still plenty of time to explore Bari, and that's exactly what we do. It is a nice city, although a bit too hectic for our taste. We make one last visit to the cafe and then head back to the harbor. We board the ferry around 19:00 and settle into our cabin. It surprises us positively. We were honestly expecting worse. There is even a shower in the room and everything is tip-top. We are thrilled. Eventually, we set sail and we are in bed, listening to the sound of the ship's engines. There is a slight sea swell, but everything is fine.

Hundi is lying in bed with Mathennsi, and Ani has secured the upper bunk.

Tuesday 18.04.

According to the plan, we should arrive in Durres, Albania at 8:00 am. We set our alarm for 7:00 am to enjoy the entrance into the harbor and take some pictures. When the alarm goes off, we are almost already in the harbor and there are the first announcements in languages that none of us understand. One thing is certain, there will be no leisurely morning. A bit sleepy, we pack everything together and have to go straight to the motorhome.

Everything goes smoothly at the border and after a short time, we find ourselves on Albanian soil.

We drive through Durres, a coastal town on the rise, and then through the capital city Tirana, where construction is taking place everywhere and one giant building after another is being built. As we move further inland, the growing disparity becomes apparent. Here, there is no sign of all that. You can understand why everyone here is trying to earn money somehow. Many people are out on the streets, waiting and hoping. At least that's our impression.

The original plan to drive through Albania in one day is quickly thrown overboard. We decide to make a first stop in Lin on Lake Ohrid. During our walk, we meet a couple from Zwickau who are on vacation in Albania and exploring the area with a rental car.

We plan to spend the night in Pogradec. Here too, there is a sense of big changes happening and construction is taking place everywhere. We find a nice quiet parking spot in front of a hotel. Before we can even look, the hotel owner puts a bottle of wine on our table. Delicious Albanian wine.

Wednesday 19.04.

We say goodbye to our kind hosts and make our way to North Macedonia. Border number one turns out to be quite intensive. The Albanian border guards are very thorough with their checks today, and it takes a while before we are allowed to pass. On the way to the North Macedonian border, we pick up two hitchhikers. It turns out that they are from Germany and are on vacation in Albania, wanting to cross the border by rental car. However, this is not possible, so they decide to continue on foot. Now they are sitting with us in the motorhome and we have a lot to talk about and exchange. Alexandra and Philipp initially wanted to go to Ohrid, but then they change their minds and join us.

Our first stop in the new country is Sveti Naum. It is a monastery complex where dogs are naturally not allowed. But we ignore this and hope that there won't be any trouble. It is a great complex that is visited by many, many tourists.

We say goodbye to our short-term travel companions and take a smaller path around the complex. There are a few little treasures to discover here and we are completely alone.

Then we continue to the Bay of Bones. Obviously, there is an admission fee again, but Ani uses all her persuasive skills and we are allowed in for free. So far, we haven't been able to exchange money in Albania or here either. We'll make do for now. It is a mini museum about the former way of life here on the lake, with houses on stilts over the water. However, the rest of the complex is much more attractive, beautifully designed, and in the remains of a Roman fortress, there are seating areas from where you have a fantastic view over the lake.

With sunny travel weather and the best mood, we continue to Ohrid. Here, we park on the outskirts right by Lake Ohrid. An idyllic and beautiful spot. As soon as we park, we head straight to the city. We wander through the old town for a while and Ani, who was here a few years ago, notes that there are now a lot more restaurants and souvenir shops. There will probably be even more, considering that Lake Ohrid and Lake Prespa are already tourist gems for North Macedonia. But for now, there are still enough locals in the old town and it creates a pleasant balance.

We are pretty tired after this exciting day and we soon return to the motorhome and all fall into bed.

Thursday 20.04.

Accompanied by the singing of frogs, we had a peaceful night and when we look out the window, we are greeted by a stray dog with a joyful bark. Ani goes down to the lake with Layla for a moment and comes back with a little pack. It seems to have spread that dog lovers are parking here. While we have coffee, the dogs play outside together, and even when we take a walk through the village, three of them come along. We look up and see that the announced rain is still hanging in the mountains at the moment, but it will probably come at some point. But our plan for today is not affected by that. Back in the motorhome, we have breakfast and then it's time for crafts, reading, and writing the blog. Later, we want to go back to the restaurant for coffee with waffles and internet to upload the blog post. At this point, our new post ends, and Ani, Layla, and Mathennsi say thank you again to everyone who has read this far and who is participating in our adventures.

Day 14: In the morning, we enjoy the relaxed atmosphere on our farm, have breakfast outdoors, and admire the farm animals marching around us.

Later in the morning, we head to Ohrid, located on Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia. We cross the border, and the Albanian customs stop us. We have to drive over a pit, like at a car inspection. All the cabinets are opened, and the customs officers stick their noses everywhere. Eventually, they reveal that they are looking for drugs. They have no luck with us 😀

In Ohrid, we find a nice parking spot on the beach promenade. We leisurely stroll along the promenade to the city center. Then, we go around the largely natural peninsula where the Church of St. John at Kaneo is located - the most popular photo subject in the whole country. But the path itself is also a lot of fun. We enjoy the wide view over the lake and the many flowers we discover along the way.

For the grand finale, we treat ourselves to a culinary delight at a restaurant with a view of the lake. Birgit is thrilled with her Ohrid trout, which is said to have been flown in for the Queen.

Oh no!

This section of Eurovelo 11, which goes from north to south through Serbia, can also seem a bit bleak if you are not in the joy of travel and freedom. Agricultural areas alternate with industrial areas, and villages are lined up with small towns and villages again. The charm of the unknown turns into anxious uncertainty on such a day. The body is tired and waits in vain for a daily routine with a shower and rest on the couch. The idea of training no longer counts.

And suddenly - on these slightly clouded days - the soul is kissed by an encounter with people and a pack of dogs who simply invite us to shower with them, give us their time and a fraction of their history - and thereby lead us a little way out of "aloneness in the world". That keeps me moving on with great joy in the world and its people.

Thank you Margarete! Thank you Tomas! For coffee, for hot water, shampoo, and towels!!!

By the way, the landscape slowly and only briefly changes into a lush, wooded hilly one.

The heat of the last days in Serbia, on the route from Aleksinac to Niš to Vranje, seems to increase with the altitude. Both barely noticeable but continuous. An impending change in weather is diffusely tangible. The nights bring cooling in these August days, a fresh breeze makes us breathe a sigh of relief every evening.

In and around the old city of Niš, we are confronted with the history of this country in different ways. Almost incidentally, a man, maybe only 10 years older than Maik, tells us about the bombs in the last war.

We spend the night in Bobanj Park in memory of the execution of resistance fighters and unwanted people by the Nazis 80 years ago. The atmosphere here is peaceful. The use of this park for leisure and celebrations has turned a place of horror into a beautiful place with a peaceful atmosphere.

The physical tiredness is really great these days, and the heart still sometimes aches far away from home.

We suspect that the landscape will only become interesting again when we reach the border of North Macedonia. For that, we have to go into the mountains - at least to climb a few meters in altitude. The weather forecast announces daily thunderstorms.

During a day off in Vranje, before the last stage in Serbia, we don't really know where to go. There is tension in the air.

Once again, an encounter changes so much. Time with and gestures from people give us new energy. Not only that! Our tired bodies, our bikes are taken with the motorhome across the border to Skopje. Just like that, because we asked, because it's possible.

We roll unexpectedly quickly this time on the highway from one country to the next. No mountains here, everything quite fast.

Thank you Edda! Thank you Hinnerk! For your time, for chocolate!

I also thank this country, whose roads we felt under us for three weeks!

Thank you Serbia! For your many gifts along the way. For Burek and watermelon! For encouraging thumbs up during mountain stages. For considerate trucks that trundled along behind us at walking pace. Thank you for frozen tap water from the black-clad widow! Thank you for the shower at the waterworks after a sweaty day! Thank you to a country that is in the process of renewing itself and seems to lose the thread in the middle of it.

So now North Macedonia - starting in the capital Skopje. Oversized statues and countless of them adorn the center and apparently want to represent the entire history of mankind. From a male perspective. With heroes and thinkers and virgins and self-sacrificing mothers...

As I read, Skopje underwent a renewal about 10 years ago. The then city government considered the investments in monumental buildings and over 100 statues - one of which is the representation of "Alexander the Great" at a height of 30m, adorning the town square - as visionary. The majority of the population would have preferred something else, and Greece felt offended by the placement of the mentioned hero.

Anyway, as a tourist, I can appreciate the unusual cityscape and like the contrast to the old bazaar.

The daily thunderstorms keep us here for a few days. Also nice, as we usually avoid cities.

We would have missed something here!

A hike in the mountains of Matka Canyon finally restores our joy of traveling. We breathe mountain air, immerse ourselves in the incredible beauty of nature, enjoy the peace and the air and the greenery of the trees and the water.

When we set off after days, we are full of energy. Rested, full and clean, the bikes serviced, the clothes freshly washed. The hilly countryside through which we wind on the first day of our journey is a treat for the eye and soul. The stages to our next destination, Lake Ohrid, are carefully considered.

Mountains accompany us on both sides - partly lushly wooded, partly barren and sparsely bushy. We are finally allowed to leave the main road and cycle on small roads through the day. Towards Lake Mavrovo. North Macedonia welcomes us here with open, warm-hearted people who are happy to have a chat and even invite us for coffee:))

To get to the lake and the corresponding national park, we first have to climb 1400 meters in altitude. The first pass awaits us.

We slowly wind our way up. The traffic is heavy, but a two-lane highway offers enough space for us to pedal up at our own pace (6 km/h)

At the 1000m bend, there is a small café. Igor the landlord turns out to be an enthusiastic yogi. We listen and are once again delighted by the surprises along the way. We reach the Mavrovo National Park with its lake in the afternoon. An official campsite allows us to end the cycling day here. We watch the clouds play and listen to the roll of thunder - is the weather coming or passing? In this moment, we are very happy to be able to linger in such beautiful and different places.

The next day, we are in for an incredible descent. We zoom down 30 km along a narrow gorge along the river Radika. The mountains tower above us. Again and again, small villages can be seen high above - few houses and in the middle, the two tower spires of a mosque. What an unfamiliar and wonderful sight. Until shortly before Struga and thus our destination, Lake Ohrid, we marvel at and enjoy this truly beautiful nature.

The heart dances and laughs - the joy of travel and the ecstasy of freedom caress us again.

We woke up early because we had a long distance to cover. We continued southwards. The Sveti Naum Monastery in North Macedonia was on the agenda. It was founded by Saint Naum in the late 9th century and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We drove through congested streets in major and minor cities in Albania, across mountains, past fields, rivers, and along Lake Ohrid until we reached the border. Departing Albania was not a problem, entering North Macedonia was not a problem for us, but it was for the car. We didn't have international insurance for the car and couldn't get one here. So we only spent 5 minutes on North Macedonian soil before turning back and re-entering Albania. It was a pretty short pleasure. Good thing we didn't plan to stay overnight here.

Nordmazedonien ist das kleine, unbekannte Land auf unserer Reise. Schon bei der Vorbereitung haben wir gemerkt, dass es nur wenig Informationen zu interessanten Reisezielen zu finden gibt. Der einzige Reiseführer aus der Bücherei war mehr als zwölf Jahre alt und heißt noch Makedonien. Da den geschichtsbewussten Griechen dieser Name so gar nicht gefällt und die Makedonier gerne in die EU wollen, mussten diese ihren Landesnamen ändern um den großen EU-Nachbarn im Süden zufriedenzustellen. Aber kaum haben sie 2019 ihren neuen Namen bekommen, will der große EU-Bruder im Osten (Bulgarien) den Nordmazedoniern ihre Sprache streitig machen und blockiert somit die Aufnahme von Beitrittsgesprächen. Klingt erstmal wenig einladend, aber zumindest soviel wussten wir aus den Nachrichten von Nordmazedonien. Es zeigte sich aber leider auch recht schnell: so viel gibt es in Nordmazedonien auch nicht zu machen.

Das erste Ziel von Albanien kommend ist Ohrid am Ohridsee. Stadt und See sind immerhin UNESCO-Weltkulturerbe und deshalb von Nordmazedonienreisenden in aller Munde. Außerdem ist der Ohridsee der zweitgrößte See der Balkanhalbinsel.

In Ohrid gingen wir auf den einzigen Campingplatz mit Waschmaschine weit und breit. Terence hatte schon wieder keine sauberen Nickis mehr. Der Campingplatz liegt direkt neben den einzigen Strandhotels von Ohrid und Baden gehen heißt scheinbar auch für die meisten Nordmazedonier "Party hard". Das Strandhotel besitzt natürlich eine Strandbar, auf der bis nachts um zwei sehr laut Livemusik lief. Ich glaube selbst die Albaner am anderen Ufer haben das gehört. 

Ohrid war zu 100% auf Tourismus getrimmt und falls jemand sich je gefragt hat, wo die Polen und Tschechen ihren Sommerurlaub verbingen: hier. Wir hatten dann auch schnell Schluss von dem Trubel und wollten weiter. Dafür ging es erstmal nach Norden in den Mavrovo-Nationalpark, der uns von einigen, die wir unterwegs getroffen hatten, empfohlen wurde. Um nach Norden zu gelangen gibt es aktuell nur eine Landstraße. Allerdings ist eine Autobahn mit paralleler Linienführung im Entstehen, gebaut von Chinesen. Das heißt China fliegt die eigenen Leute ein, aber die Nordmazedonier mit immerhin 20% Arbeitslosenquote gehen erstmal leer aus. Die LKW trugen chinesische Schriftzeichen, die Bauarbeiter trugen Coronamasken und große Bautafeln dankten dem chinesischen Volk. Eine dubiose Annäherung, wenn man doch eigentlich in die EU möchte.

Der Mavrovo-Nationalpark schützt ein Gebirgsmassiv und dessen natürliche Wasserläufe, also zumindest laut Selbstverständnis. Zentraler Bestandteil des Parks ist jedoch ein großer Stausee mit Wassersporteinrichtungen und weitere kleine Stauseen sind im Gebiet des Nationalparks geplant. Hier auf dem Balkan lernt man schnell, dass die Definition von Nationalpark stark von unserer mitteleuropäischen Definition abweichen kann. Aber verlässt man den Stausee und fährt in die Berge des Mavrovo ist man schnell in einer einsamen Bergwelt angekommen.

Vom Mavrovo-Nationalpark ging es zur Pilgerstätte der Nordmazedonier. Dem Ort, an dem sie ihre Identität als Nordmazedonier gründen: Kruševo. Hier erhoben sich 1903 die Bewohner gegen die osmanische Besatzung und riefen die Rebuplik Kruševo aus. Diese hatte immerhin 12 Tage Bestand bis die Osmanen den Aufstand niederschlugen. Das könnte auch an den selbstgebauten Holzkanonen der Aufständischen gelegen haben. Jedenfalls steht in Kruševo jetzt das Nationalheiligtum der Nordmazedonier, das Makedonium. Ein in Beton gegossenes, übergroßes Coronavirus.

Weiter ging es gen Südosten durch endlose Wälder und wenig Besiedlung nach Bitola, nahe an der griechischen Grenze. Entlang des Weges gab es nicht viel zu sehen. Man merkt aber deutlich den Einfluss der orthodoxen Kirche. Alle paar Kilometer war ein Kloster ausgeschildert.

Bitola ist mit 70.000 Einwohnern die drittgrößte Stadt Nordmazedoniens und für ihre osmanische Altstadt und die antike griechische Stadt Heraklea bekannt.

Direkt hinter Bitola ragt das Baba-Massiv steil auf 2600 Meter auf. Terence fand beim Stöbern auf IZI.travel eine gratis self-guided Offroadtour durch dieses Massiv, dass durch den Pelister-Nationalpark geschützt ist. Über ordentlich Geröll und Gestein kämpften wir uns abends auf den Berg und konnten in aller Ruhe neben einem Gletschersee auf 2200m und mit herrlichem Blick auf Bitola und gefühlt ganz Nordmazedonien übernachten.

Schaut man sich die Karte von Nordmazedonien an, sieht man, dass das Land viele leere Flecken hat. Viele Landstraßen versanden irgendwo im Gebirge oder gehen nach und nach in Feldwege mit unklarem Ende über. Dadurch gibt es viele Regionen mit abgeschiedenen Gebieten, die nur schwer zu erreichen sind. Eine Region, die in genau so einer großen Sackgasse liegt, ist Mariovo, östlich von Bitola an der Grenze zu Griechenland. Die breite und gut ausgebaute Landstraße ging nach und nach in eine schmale, kurvenreiche Nebenstraße über. Der Verkehr ließ nach und die Ortschaften wurden weniger. Bis die Ortschaften größtenteils Geisterdörfern glichen. Diese ehemals landwirtschaftlich geprägte Region, hier wurde unter anderem viel Opium angebaut, ist heute nahezu entvölkert und größtenteils von Alten bewohnt. Das liegt nicht nur an der schlechten Verkehrsanbindung als viel mehr an den Schlachten des Ersten Weltkrieges. Wir stießen hier ein wenig verwundert auf deutsche Soldatenfriedhöfe und lernten schnell, hier verlief die Salonikifront, in der sich die gesamte Entente und die Mittelmächte, hauptsächlich vertreten durch Bulgarien, gegenüberstanden. Jeweils 600.000 Soldaten standen sich auf beiden Seiten gegenüber und legten die gesamte Region in Schutt und Asche. Der Durchbruch der Entente gilt als eine der Entscheidungsschlachten des Ersten Weltkrieges. Von den Schlachten hat sich die Region nie erholt, leider, denn die Landschaft kann mit den Kimberleys in Australien mit ihren roten Felsen und zahlreichen Canyons problemlos mithalten.

Nachdem der Westen des Landes sehr bergig und grün ist, zeigte sich das Zentrum flach und trocken. Auf dem Weg nach Prilep, unserem nächsten Ziel, ging es durch eine recht langweilige Gegend, ähnlich wie Brandenburg. Arbeit für die Bevölkerung scheint es nicht wirklich zu geben, so sitzen schon vormittags viele Männer vom Dorfladen und trinken Kaffee und Bier.

Auch wenn die Fahrt nach Prilep wenig fürs Auge zu bieten hatte, die Landschaft um Prilep selbst war der Hammer. Überall liegen große Boulder wie hingewürfelt in der Gegend herum und sanftes Grün wächst über dem roten Boden. In der Mitte über allem trohnt eine alte Burg.

Prilep selbst hat nicht so viel zu bieten. Es trifft Plattenbauschick auf moderne Betonbauten und die Randbezirke sind zum Teil Sinti-und-Roma-Siedlungen.

Weiter ging es zum östlichsten Punkt unserer Reise, der auch der wärmste Ort Nordmazedoniens sein soll: Demir Kapija. Juliane wurde bei dieser Aussage ganz bange, aber so warm war es dann doch nicht. Bei Demir Kapija durchbricht der Fluss Vardar einen Gebirgszug. Folgerichtig heißt Demir Kapija übersetzt Eisernes Tor und erinnert auch ein wenig an den großen Bruder an der Donau in Serbien. Die umgebenden Berge eignen sich super zum Klettern und ziehen viele Klettertouristen an. Deshalb gibt es hier auch einen der wenigen Campingplätze in Nordmazedonien, in einem Wohngebiet des Dorfes gelegen. In der Nähe des Ortes gibt sogenannte Warm Pools, wobei der Name sehr irreführend ist. Statt in warmen Quellen kann man hier ein wenig in kleinen, mit Steinstaudämmen gebauten Pools eines Bergbaches planschen. Aber bei 35 °C war das ganz angenehm um den Nachmittag im Wasser sitzend zu verbringen, etwas abzukühlen und die Einheimischen zu beobachten. Denn hier versammelte sich der gesamte Ort und je später es wurde umso voller wurde es. Aber die Leute kommen nicht nur zum Baden. Nicht selten wird der halbe Hausstand mitgebracht. Am Ufer wird gegrillt, Stühle und Tisch werden ins Wasser gestellt und dann wird erstmal schön BBQ mit den Freunden gemacht. Andere richteten sich gleich für länger ein und bauten Zelte am Ufer auf oder schleppten palettenweise Bier zu ihrem Pool. Wir fanden das super und fragten uns wie schnell wohl die Polizei kommen würde, wenn wir das bei uns an der Weißeritz veranstalten würden. Aber hier gilt noch leben und leben lassen. Hört der Nachbar heute ohrenbetäubend laut Musik, bin ich eben morgen dran.

Abends, wenn die Dämmerung einsetzt, strömen alle nach draußen. Da auch gerade Ferien sind, sind die Straßen voll mit Kindern jeden Alters. Das Kindergeschrei zieht natürlich Karl magisch an. Er lief wie ein Zombie vom Stellplatz immer wieder zur Straße. Aber das Schöne war, die einheimischen Kinder spielten mit ihm, tätschelten ihn und waren stolz, die paar Worte englisch und deutsch, die sie kannten, mit uns zu teilen. Irgendwann entdeckten sie, dass unsere Taschenlampe auch ein rotes Notfallblinkelicht hat. Jeder wollte es haben, es sich an sein Fahrad halten und Polizei spielen.

Damit war Demir Kapija dann auch abgehakt und wir begaben uns endgültig wieder auf die Reise nach Norden. Auf dem halben Weg nach Skopje liegt direkt an der Autobahn die antike makedonische Stadt Stobi, also ein perfekter Halt für. Wir schlenderten durch das sehr beeindruckende und große Ausgrabungsgelände. Selbst hier gab es von der EU gesponsert gratis Audioguides zum Download.

Skopje war dann doch eine große Überraschung. Nordmazedonien gilt laut Transparence International als eines der korruptesten Länder Europas. Nur Moldawien, die Ukraine und Russland sind korrupter. Insofern geht in dem Land einiges schief. So verwandelte das Projekt "Skopje 2014" die Stadt innerhalb weniger Jahre in die Kitschhauptstadt Europas wie Kritiker Skopje heute nennen. Ein Projekt, dass der Stadt ein barockes Antlitz geben sollte, aber laut der Oppostion im Land vorallem zur Geldwäsche der autokratischen Regierung diente. Als Resultat stehen jetzt überall in der Stadt monströse Alexander-der-Große-Statuen, die die Beziehung zu Griechenland nicht unbedingt verbesserten. Doch nicht nur Alexander und seine gesamte Sippe müssen herhalten, auch diverse andere Nationalhelden, Schriftsteller und neuzeitliche Politiker begrüßen die Gäste der Stadt in 100-Meter-Intervalen. Aber irgendwie ist die Stadt auch cool, dank der vielen Umbauten gibt es viel für das Auge zu sehen. Wenn man bedenkt, dass die Stadt bei einem verherrenden Erdbeben 1963 in Schutt und Asche gelegt wurde, ist die Umgestaltung vielleicht nicht die schlechteste Idee, auch wenn wir nicht wissen, wie Skopje nach dem Erdbeben wieder aufgebaut wurde.

Bei einer Free Tour durch Skopje lernten wir aber auch den orientalisch-türkisch geprägten Teil der Stadt kennen. Nach der Tour lud uns unser Guide Vasko noch auf einen typisch türkischen Tee in einer der zahlreichen Kneipen im Basarviertel ein und erzählte von seinem interessanten Leben. Er hat Tscheschich und Türkisch studiert und war lange Zeit als Reiseautor unterwegs. Deshalb wurde er sogar als "The Best Promoter of Macedonia" ausgezeichnet. Aber, weil er da bald keine Lust mehr drauf hatte, scheinbar weil er nicht mehr so arbeiten durfte wie er es sich vorgestellt hatte, wurde er Touristenführer. Auch er berichtete uns, wie der Verdruss über die EU wegen der ewig langen und fortschrittslosen Beitrittsverhandlungen zunimmt. So sehr, dass die EU einiges an Vertrauen verloren hat und sich die Menschen hier immer weniger ernst genommen fühlen und langsam vom Wunsch des EU-Beitritt abkehren. 

Jeder in Skopje war der Meinung, dass wir unbedingt den Matka Canyon besuchen müssten, also taten wir das auch, so wie tausende Mazedonier. Am Fuße des Staudamms herrschte Partystimmung und es galt wieder die Regel, machen und machen lassen. Überall wurde gegrillt, laut Musik gespielt und gebadet. Kinder tanzten auf Autodächern und ein Vater schockte seine Tochter aus Spaß mit einem Elektroschocker. Das ist alles kein Problem hier und keiner beschwerte sich bei seinem Nachbarn.

Das wars dann leider auch schon von Nordmazedonien.

Today I didn't sleep well, I thought too much about the engine problem...

The plan for today is to hand over most of the transported relief goods to the Miss Stone Center in Strumica. The center is operated by the world mission of our church, as it was on the way, I contacted them in advance and asked what things we could help with. I had an appointment with the pastor at 8 o'clock there, it was only about 2 km away. I decided to try to drive there. With about 7 stalls and a lot of idling, I barely made it there. The extra diesel poured from the reserve canister didn't help.

Mitko, the head of the facility, Pastor Cekov, and I unloaded the donated children's clothing, pens, balls, various safety equipment (reflective vests, warning lights, etc.), tools, and toys. Now I finally had space and could work on the engine. Actually, no diesel was reaching the engine.

So I unscrewed the line between the filter and the engine so that I could draw diesel directly from the canister. But the canister had just been emptied earlier. Not very smart of me... So I went under the car and let the diesel drip back into the canister from the tank, thanks to a not completely factory-standard departure.

With that, I could finally test it. And lo and behold, the engine ran properly again. Phew, the injection pump is not the problem, lucky me.

The filter itself looked okay, so there must be a blockage somewhere between the filter and the tank. Pastor Cekov urged me to interrupt my repair attempts and invited me for a coffee. I received many interesting information about the center and its work.

Then suddenly a mechanic, Mitko had called him for assistance, appeared and searched for the problem with me...We then found that the hollow bolt at the filter inlet was completely clogged with dirt. After a quick cleaning, diesel was flowing from the tank to the engine properly again. So the problem was solved for now. But I will have to work on it again because there is probably much more dirt in the tank. The mechanic also gave me his small hand pump, let's see if I need it again.

Afterwards, there was a very rich breakfast at the Miss Stone Center.

After cleaning up the transporter, we continued towards Greece...

By the way, I saw some interesting mobile items. They were obviously homemade chassis with diesel engines, with a circular saw attached to the front. I saw this kind of thing more often, it seems to be a kind of self-propelled working machine.

I was also offered a beautiful mountain landscape in North Macedonia. Just my thing, cruising down long serpentines in gear with nice music playing...

Right in front of the border with Greece, there was a beautiful large lake, right next to it is the border station. I was able to cross this border without any problems. However, for the first time, I had to open the now empty trunk and the engine cover located there. At all previous borders, if at all, they just looked uninterested through the windows. However, the Greek customs officer was not interested in the completely filled passenger compartment with all sorts of boxes and stuff...

After crossing the border, I drove a bit through a plain for the first time, and at some point I stopped in the middle of the country at a gas station. The gas station attendant performed a German 'children's song': 'Eins zwei Polizei, drei vier...' If he thinks so...

Actually, I wanted to stay overnight in Thessaloniki. But when I arrived there, it somehow seemed too hectic for me. So I took a room in a small hotel directly on the beach outside the city.

Quick vehicle check: One blinker light, one position light, and one license plate light have failed, otherwise no special incidents - don't feel like repairing anything else today.

I traveled 150 kilometers today, that's enough for now.

And then this Sunday ended with delicious Greek food on the beach...

Two days in North Macedonia and already so many experiences. When entering North Macedonia from the southern part of Ohrid Lake, right after the border with Albania, you will find the St. Naum Monastery. The karst springs that feed Ohrid Lake originate here. By the way, this is the oldest lake in the world. The largest part of the lake is located in North Macedonia and the smaller part in Albania.

We were pleasantly surprised by the beauty of the monastery and the flower gardens in the outdoor areas. You can take boat trips to the karst springs there. This landscape is somewhat similar to the Spreewald.

From there, we only had a few kilometers to go to the Bay of Bones. In this bay, remains of a over 3000-year-old fishing village were found in the 1990s and reconstructed faithfully in a small part in the following years. We highly recommend visiting this museum.

Right after, we visited Ohrid. A city with historic architecture combined with modern and luxurious facilities. After an extensive city tour, we tucked ourselves into a small secluded alley and visited a typical local restaurant. We haven't eaten this delicious and affordable on this trip so far.

1 beer, 1 Schweppes, 1 kebab, 1 hamburger, and feta cheese salad for a total of 12.40 euros - unbeatable.

Quite late in the evening, we found the Rino Campsite in the north and treated ourselves to an additional beautiful day here.