Quito, the capital of Ecuador, is 2850m high and sits at the foot of the Pichincha volcano, which last erupted in 1999. The city is known as the monastery of Ecuador due to its numerous churches, including the neo-Gothic Basilica del Voto Nacional, the largest cathedral in South America.

Otavaleños typically have long hair, wear white trousers, black hats, and ponchos. They are famous for their textiles, speak Kichwa, and are now considered a prosperous indigenous ethnic group in Latin America.

There are more and more rose growers offering their flowers under Fairtrade. This means that the workers are paid better and have expanded insurance coverage.

Lima, a metropolis with over 11 million inhabitants, is the capital of Peru.

In Lima, there is high humidity from the Pacific Ocean, yet it rarely rains.

I would say Great climate in Lima.

At the Plaza de Armas, the Spanish colonial architecture is evident through the magnificent wooden balconies.

Arequipa, a river oasis, is located at 2330m, surrounded by volcanoes, and has a very dry climate.

Arequipa is also known for Cuy Chactado, a Peruvian specialty where the animal/guinea pig is weighted down with flat stones during frying and seasoned with spices like cayenne pepper.

Cusco is situated at an altitude of 3400m, surrounded by eucalyptus trees to mitigate eruptions.

Mainly corn is cultivated, which is nutritious and resistant to the essential oils of the eucalyptus trees.

The Incas were expelled from Cusco by the Spaniards in 1535.

Machu Picchu is hidden and offers a unique location.

The Incas created terrace fields for potatoes, which were then dried for preservation. The structures generally have slanted walls and trapezoidal windows for interlocking, making them stable. The stones were blasted with the help of a wedge and often have 8-12 corners.

Agriculture is a top priority. They grow potatoes, corn, and quinoa. The potatoes are enhanced with homemade cow cheese and a paste made from healing clay.

At Lake Titicaca, 5km east of the port of Puno, we see floating islands resembling small villages made of reeds.

The residents, called Uros, build their houses when the reed roots reach a depth of one meter. They live off fishing, primarily catfish and trout. The islands served as a defense mechanism. There is even a watchtower; when danger looms, they quickly dismantle the reed houses and set them up elsewhere.

2 days at the port of Callao, the harbor and trade city, as well as Lima, the capital of Peru. A country about 3 times the size of Germany with the 13 million capital, Lima. The ever-present Inca past, the origin of potatoes and llamas / alpacas is omnipresent.
The monumental colonial buildings and squares, with the main squares Plaza de Mayor, Plaza San Martin, and the seemingly endless pedestrian promenade in between.
A visit to the upscale district of Miraflores with the Love Park is another must.

The time in Nazca until sunset, and thus also for our bus departure, was limited. My driver suggested visiting the Necropolis of Chauchilla and the aqueducts of Cantalloc.

The Necropolis of Chauchilla is located about 30 km south of Nazca and serves as a cemetery of the ancient Nazca culture. The deceased were not buried here but instead were placed in open pit graves facing west. The air is so dry here that natural mummification occurs.

The sight of these mummies is not necessarily suitable for sensitive individuals.

Here is a quote from Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chauchilla_Cemetery):

“... Several opened individual and family graves can be visited. In the graves, which are only protected by light roofs, there are mummies, human bones, and archaeologically insignificant remains of grave goods. All valuable finds have been stolen or moved to museums.

The dead were wrapped in cotton threads and treated with resin. They were then buried in pits lined with adobe bricks. The extreme arid climate of the Peruvian coastal desert allowed for the preservation of the mummies. In the exhibited mummies, grave robbers ripped off the cotton wrappings around the upper body to gain access to clothing and jewelry, and in the process, the heads were often severed. The heads could often no longer be clearly identified with the bodies. Some mummies have heads made of cotton. There are theories suggesting that the heads were severed during a sacrifice and stored elsewhere. For the mummification, the bodies may have received replacement heads to complete them. ...”.

After visiting the Chauchilla Necropolis, we returned to Nazca and went to the eastern part of the city to the Aqueducts of Cantalloc.

Here too, I quote excerpts from the corresponding Wikipedia article (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aqueducts_of_Cantalloc) in addition to the images:

“… The irrigation systems are among the oldest in the Andean region and were started around 800–200 B.C. and completed by the Nazcas by 650 A.D..

The arid region has been supplied with water through underground springs, primarily for agricultural use, for centuries. The spiral entrances to the approximately 40 aqueducts are called

The pickup at the hostel in the oasis of Huacachina at 8 AM - booked as a private ride - went well. Although it was a bit different than expected 😂. In front of the hostel, there was a quite new KIA. On the passenger seat was a nice younger Peruvian woman. However, to fit our suitcases in the trunk, the driver first had to sort out about 15 plastic bags filled with (dead) plucked chickens 😳!

Once that was done, we set off towards Nasca. The conversation with the driver and his female companion was difficult but sometimes funny. For the first half hour, she was constantly on the phone – it was a bit annoying. As is often the case, everyone asked where we were from – and here too. When I replied, “Europe - Germany - Portugal,” the nice young lady directly asked me if I would take her with me. She lives alone with her 5-year-old son and could come with us right away 😳😳🤣🤣

On the way, we suddenly stopped in a small town, and the woman got out of the car and rang a doorbell. We were a bit confused. The reason: the initial phone calls from the nice lady appeared to be sales calls – she was selling the previously mentioned chickens directly from the car to houses. 😆

After 3 hours and a few more short stops, we finally reached Nasca. Our driver stopped in the middle of the city – the “private ride” was over. It was getting exciting now. The airline was responsible for the remaining transport to the airfield on the other side. Along the way, I received a message via Messenger from someone claiming to be their driver. I was supposed to share our location as soon as we arrived in Nasca. I was a bit skeptical - but what other options were there?! So I shared our location - we were on a main street in the middle of a city. No sooner had our “taxi” stopped than a modern minibus was already behind us - the airport transfer!

After that, everything went quickly: luggage loaded, drive to the airport, luggage unloaded, and placed in the airline's office. The formalities for the flight were completed,…. And after an introduction by the pilot, we were already in the air. The flight in a 6-seater, single-engine Cessna lasted exactly 30 minutes.

I have commented on the flight among the pictures.

Unfortunately, we had to turn back a bit earlier, as one of the other passengers felt unwell - the turns were tight, which can upset the stomach if you're not used to it 🤢🤮🤣

Afterwards, we were driven by the airport transfer to a quite nice hotel where we could spend the time until our bus departure in the direction of the Chilean border.

However, we had several hours to spare until then. So I asked the driver if he could take me to two or three other pre-Columbian sites. We quickly reached an agreement, and after 30 minutes, he arrived in his private car at the hotel 😬

More about this in the second report of this day…

In the morning, we booked a last-minute quad tour in the desert for the morning.

This quad tour turned out to be “driving around on a piece of private land” between Ica and Huacachina - but there was sand and dunes, and it was still fun. 😅 However, these quads were not power monsters, quite the opposite - and they had “summer tires,” not rugged treads for off-roading. So when you drove uphill, you could really feel the power and speed drop. And at one point, I really had a moment of panic: just a few meters before the crest of a steep incline, I was stuck. The wheels spun, and the engine was done. If you gave too much gas, the quad would tip forward and threaten to flip backward. 😳😨 So I slowly rolled backward down the hill. With the sand and steep incline, I quickly found myself slipping. If you braked too much at the back -> backflip down the slope, if you braked at the front -> sideways slip and side flip down. In the end, everything went well - thanks to my MTB experience 😅😅

In the afternoon, it was time for relaxation and a leisurely stroll through this beautiful piece of land. Here it was a “new development”: anyone wanting to enter the desert actually had to pay an entrance fee 🤣🤣

So I took one of the many paths up the dune away from the “tourist entrance.” Two steps forward, one step back - walking in the sand is a struggle, especially when going uphill and in 35-degree heat under the blazing sun. 🥵🥵

… why do I put myself through this?! … halfway up I turned back 😅😫

Evening came quickly. And after dinner, it was time to pack our bags for the journey to Nasca the next morning.

Oh, by the way: our schedule was really, really tight (see report from 11/4). We wanted to be in Nasca the next morning (only about 150 km south of Huacachina) to take a flight over the famous Nasca lines. However, since there was no bus service from Ica to Nasca in the morning, we went ahead and booked a package with private transfer and a timed flight from the “agency” that morning.

For the next 4 days, we had set ourselves a quite ambitious and strenuous travel and sightseeing program:

The oasis of Huacachina, Nasca with its Nasca lines, all the way to San Pedro de Atacama in a large dry depression on the eastern edge of the Atacama Desert just before the Andes.

Unfortunately, there is neither a direct nor a quick connection from Cusco in Peru to Calama / San Pedro in Chile. So we first had to fly back to Lima.

At 7:30, the taxi was indeed in front of the accommodation. Even though it was ordered, we were never really sure if it would actually arrive😅. So off to Cusco's airport, 1.5 hours flight back to Lima, and from there immediately took an Uber for 45 minutes across Peru's capital Lima to the

In the evening, we landed in Lima and, experiencing a slight shock from the cold (12 degrees), we headed to the hostel where Salla was already waiting for us from Bogota 🤗

After breakfast, we went to the Centro Historico, where we coincidentally landed at the Independence Parade from Argentina. We visited several other attractions until it was time to search for flea markets for the upcoming cold areas. For dinner, we only wanted to try a traditional Pisco Sour briefly, but it ended up being a long party night.🍸🪩

To

We were feeling somewhat better and wanted to get out of our hotel room as quickly as possible, especially to be independent from the cooking skills of others. So, we left pale and a few kilos lighter on the night bus heading north to Máncora, just before the border with Ecuador. Here, we found a nice hostel right by the beach on the outskirts of the town with good cuisine, peaceful and far away from the hustle and bustle. The host and the other guests were also very nice and relaxed.

After Marike overcame her aversion to just hanging out at the beach for two or three days, we enjoyed long walks on the beach, swimming in great high waves, reading, cooking our meals, and gazing at the sea with a cold drink in hand. It was really good for us, and we ended up staying longer than planned, even though that meant sacrificing a few stops in Ecuador. During that time, the area experienced several quite strong earthquakes, but the bamboo structures of our accommodation withstood everything.

The only downside was an armed robbery of a Canadian tourist just a few hundred meters from us on the second-to-last day, who left her belongings while swimming on the beach and then got robbed. We had walked that path every day. After that, we didn’t feel so free and easy anymore, and it was good to move on.

Nevertheless, it was a successful conclusion for Peru, where there is still so much more to see and which we have grown very fond of. Hopefully, we will return one day!

After a sad farewell to the Andes, we headed back to the sea overnight to Trujillo - the third largest city in Peru after Lima and Arequipa.

For a change, we treated ourselves to a proper hotel with a breakfast buffet right at the Plaza de Armas. And because Trujillo is said to have the best ceviche in all of Peru, we immediately looked for a nice, slightly upscale restaurant. You have to indulge yourself sometimes! After an incredibly long wait and a growing bad mood from hunger, our food finally arrived. While it was not completely inedible, the fish was tough and somehow tasted a bit strange. Unsatisfied, we returned to our hotel room, and then it all started. We both felt incredibly sick, and for the next two days, we only exchanged the bathroom doorknob. Ceviche inferno at its finest! Montezuma's revenge is really a joke compared to this. None of us had ever felt so bad in our lives! We probably should have gone to the hospital, but we didn’t have the strength to even think about it. Our fancy hotel room turned out to be a trap (well, at least you could call the reception to order new toilet paper), and the breakfast buffet or the pool was of course pointless…

Even the strongest storm passes, and so we could - albeit very weak - still visit the archaeological sites of Huaca de la Luna and Chan Chan.

Because we were so exhausted, we booked a Spanish-speaking tour right next door, resulting in being driven directly to the sites by bus, but having to stop at places that were completely uninteresting to us and always waiting for a loud and giggling group of young women who were regularly late back to the bus. Thus, we let a park with giant plastic replicas of tiny clay figures in various sexual positions from the Moche culture (our funny girls' group completely exhausted themselves taking selfies), a sales demonstration of poorly crafted musical instruments by a guy in clumsily painted traditional clothing, and a sunset at the overcrowded and dirty Playa de Huanchaco, where ceviche was offered (anything but that), pass us by. We had to decline lunch with a Marinera Norteña performance (a famous local dance), which led to great displeasure as the guide did not receive a commission for us, but our stomachs were still not ready for enclosed spaces with food smells.

Nevertheless, the tour was completely worthwhile because of the main attractions. Huaca de la Luna is a temple complex with a pyramid made of adobe bricks, built between the 1st and 8th centuries AD and part of the ancient capital of the Moche culture. The Moche were, by the way, a highly developed culture with a complex social system and high technological knowledge, who created irrigation systems to make the barren desert soil fertile. The complex was built higher and higher over the centuries and thus consists of various levels connected by ramps with plazas, patios, burial and sacrificial sites where religious ceremonies took place. Parts of the walls are decorated with colorful frescoes. After the downfall of the Moche (after strong El Niño rains destroyed the irrigation systems, followed by years of drought, the Moche abandoned their cities and moved to smaller villages in the hinterland), the facilities were partially taken over by the Chimu until the Incas finally took control in the 15th century and the Spaniards a century later. From that point on, the sites were abandoned and the fragile adobe constructions were exposed to wind and weather, resulting in significant damage. It is actually fascinating that anything is still left, and you can still see the colorful frescoes clearly on some. During archaeological excavations, some parts are protected with roofs, but that is rather just protection against the worst rain, and the entire ensemble seems to be dwindling.

Similarly destroyed is Chan Chan, built by the Chimu, and was probably once the largest city on the South American continent. It originated around 1300 and is still about 28 square kilometers in size today. It was also built from adobe. About 60,000 inhabitants once lived here with a great fortune of gold, silver, and ceramic art. It originally consisted of nine autonomous districts, each ruled by their own leaders, who were revered as kings.

Of course, Chan Chan eventually fell into the crosshairs of the Incas. After their initial military failure, they diverted the Rio Moche, the water source of the city, in 1470, and were able to conquer it due to the water shortage. Subsequently, the city lost significance but was not destroyed by the Incas. This changed with the arrival of the Spaniards, who plundered the treasures of the Chimu and left little of the city intact. The rest is similarly affected by the weather, particularly the strong El Niño rains. Again, attempts are made at some locations to preserve/reconstruct the buildings, but most of the city is disappearing more and more. In some areas, people have even begun to settle again. It’s a bit painful to see.

We found the sites incredibly fascinating and can only recommend visiting before the giant sandcastles completely disappear. As for the culinary part, we are rather reserved.

It all started on Good Friday heading towards Lima, which was already a 24-hour drive according to Google Maps. Taking the bus felt like an endless journey, but we wanted to go straight to the coast, and we weren't feeling the towns south of Peru. Flying was certainly an option, but taking the bus was more spontaneous and much cheaper. And we had time! However, it took quite a toll on us, about 32-36 hours in total (something around that, we've pushed it out of our minds). We couldn't sit through in one bus as we expected, but had to change buses twice. It was a bit confusing, and at times we thought we were being scammed, but each time we were picked up and seated in the next bus. So we had a few hours in Puno again, for the third time we were there! At least we could stretch our legs and enjoy some pretty decent fish in bright sunshine. At some point on the way, caught in the infinity, a lady boarded who convinced us to try some local cheap wine that hit hard, so we had fun.

Lima is truly a huge city, and when we finally arrived at the bus station, it took an eternity until we got to our hostel in the Miraflores district via Uber. Miraflores is definitely one of the better neighborhoods in the city, with nice little houses and good infrastructure in terms of cafes and restaurants. Prices are a bit higher than the rest of Peru, but still reasonable; plus, there were sometimes nice tables on the terrace and more salad and vegetable options. We enjoyed it and spoiled ourselves. Our bodies really appreciated the return to sea level. We took walks through the neighborhood up on the cliffs (down there, unfortunately, it's very unattractive, loud, and dirty due to heavy traffic), watched surfers and paragliders, chilled with cats in Kennedy Park (they live there and are taken care of by volunteers), did some window shopping, and even went to the theater once. In between, we also visited the old town and checked out some catacombs in a convent, but otherwise, it was quite ugly and uncomfortable, just like in other parts of the city that we observed while passing through. So we quickly returned to our bubble in Miraflores and enjoyed life!

From now on, we were back to being two, and to distract ourselves from the sad farewell, we set off from Cusco to the Manu National Park. This rainforest reserve, covering nearly 20,000 km^2, is only accessible in the periphery of the so-called cultural zone, while the majority is closed off to protect the animals and plants (and small indigenous peoples who wish to avoid contact with the modern outside world). A total of 200 mammal species, 1000 bird species, and 1200 butterfly species are said to inhabit Manu, as well as about 10% of all plant species found in the world. The trend is upward, as new species are continually being discovered. And we hoped to be able to observe a small part of that!

With a small group of European tourists, a pleasant well-fed old lady as the cook, and a great knowledgeable biologist as our guide, we set off. Once again, it was a long and arduous journey – descending from over 3000 meters in Cusco through mountain roads and fog forests to the national park at around 300 meters. Along the way, we stopped at the Chullpas de Ninamarca (pre-Columbian burial sites where people were buried sitting in fetal position) and at a potato museum, where an enthusiastic scientist from Lima lectured about the over 3500 potato varieties said to exist in Peru. In the area, potatoes are supposedly grown with very archaic-looking tools and a lot of manual labor; it's hard to believe such things are still in use.

The road wound on, becoming hotter and more humid. At the roadside, we spotted the first exotic birds, and we walked along the path with our guide armed with binoculars while our car waited for us further down. Unfortunately, we could only remember a fraction of the animal names, but our first proud observation was a chestnut-crowned cotinga with bright red eyes, followed by a red macaw (Ara). And we arrived at a spot where, during certain times of day, the strange-looking Andean cock-of-the-rock could be observed with its 'nubbin nose', by the way, Peru's national bird.

After a delicious meal at a waterfall and more kidding around, we reached our first accommodation (simple bamboo huts with cold showers, but at least private rooms). Here, we were all issued rubber boots, which we needed for the next few days. Unfortunately, Freddy's pair was too tight around the calves, so he ended up with some really nasty chafing wounds over time. The boots came into play immediately after nightfall when we set off for a little night walk. It was quite spooky; there were creeks, crawlers, buzzing, and croaking all around, and something was constantly flying into our mouths. We discovered a few funny frogs and toads, leafcutter ants, a snake waiting in the water for a tree frog as prey, and all kinds of insects.

The next day, we saw the pond and the surroundings in the light; everything looked harmless and lovely. In the expansive area, various fruits, coconuts, cinnamon, and a lot of coca were cultivated (in the region, coca can be grown on a small scale as a medicinal plant, but all vehicles are checked upon exiting the park to ensure no larger quantities that could be worth smuggling for cocaine production are taken out). Initially, we hiked to a small park (Jardin de colibries), where particularly good observations of hummingbirds could be made, as they fluttered right before our eyes, attracted by the many sugar water feeders. While we saw some hummingbirds at flowers over the next few days, we didn't get as close to them again. After that, we boarded a boat, which would also be our means of transport besides hiking in the following days. The boatmen understood their job excellently and could read the river, which had quite varying levels and currents over its course, incredibly well.

At a steep riverbank, we hopped out of the boat and climbed up the embankment to then make our way through deep mud through the forest to our next lodge, where we spent the next 2 days and nights.

The people living in this area mainly belong to the Machiguengas and have a strong connection to nature. There are also a few competent medicine men, especially concerning Ayahuasca ceremonies and the like.

From here, we started various boat trips and hikes through rivers and mud deserts, sometimes freezing from sudden rain showers, then again sweating as the air became more humid, always fully concentrated on whether we would discover a family of monkeys, birds, or other animals:

To Machuhuassy Lagoon, where we paddled on rafts (Freddy did very well and could start as a gondolier in Venice anytime), passing many birds, to climb a very wobbly lookout tower in the middle of nowhere, from which we could observe a few capybaras (water pigs). 

To a giant mammoth tree, through an incredibly diverse forest where the fierce competition for light and nutrients becomes apparent: only those that grow tall and form a wide root system survive, or those with even more elaborate strategies to simply get rid of their neighbors (there were, for example, trees that would wrap around others and slowly strangle them).

It was very strenuous, but incredibly exciting and thrilling! We would have loved to stay much longer, but after four incredibly long and eventful days, we were looking forward late in the evening, completely exhausted, to a warm shower and a soft clean bed back in Cusco.

There was plenty of action, a seated stand, and three standing terraces with 4 different fan zones, and correspondingly, we heard everything mixed up, which was a bit more than I had expected. However, they really threw punches at each other. The south terrace was separated into two parts by many police, apparently, the two groups are not always on the same page; interestingly, it was not the two groups that clashed, but people within the same sectors. First, there was a proper brawl before the police intervened, calmed the situation with batons, to then again start breaking everything up and taking the instigators. Good entertainment, the mediocre game ended 3 to 0.

In Peru, a visit to Machu Picchu is a must, and we wanted to fulfill this long-held dream.

Unfortunately, there have been such heavy rainfalls recently that the treks like the classic Inca Trail or Salkantay Trek, where one hikes for several days to the Machu Picchu ruins, were closed due to multiple landslides. It was also unclear when they would reopen.

So we took the regular route to the most famous ruin in the world, which was not entirely easy, but incredibly beautiful. First, we traveled about 60 km by mini-taxi to Ollantaytambo, which is worth a trip in itself. We spent a night here to explore everything at leisure. The small town in the Urubamba Valley, alongside the river of the same name, is still very close to its original condition as planned and built by the Incas, with terraces for agricultural cultivation, straight narrow streets with channels to drain the water, and square blocks that surround central courtyards of houses. On one side, there is an old fortress on the mountain with its thick walls strategically placed to dominate and defend the Sacred Valley. On the other side, there are former military facilities and storage areas on the mountain (due to the winds at altitude, items could be stored very well here). It is suspected that parts of the structures, such as the monolith wall in the Sun Temple, were built by the earlier Tiwanaku culture originating from Lake Titicaca and were simply reused by the Incas.

From Ollantaytambo, you either have the option to take a mini-taxi a bit further and then hike three hours to Agua Calientes (the town at the foot of the mountain where Machu Picchu is located). There used to be a road, but it has fallen victim to larger landslides. Alternatively, one can - albeit comparably expensive - take the train! Since Mercedes didn't have much time in total, and we were really eager for a train ride in South America, where there are hardly any train routes, we opted for the latter, also choosing the luxury version with glass skylights for a good view while passing by mountains and cliffs.

The train was more old-fashioned than expected, but the journey was beautiful, along steep cliff walls, small settlements, and the rushing Urubamba River, which was carrying a lot of water due to heavy rains. There had also been floods and landslides along the train route, but with much handwork, it had been cleared and restored. The view of the mountains was breathtaking, and it must be fantastic to hike the various trails up there. The train also serves many locals as a means of transport, for whom the tickets cost only a fraction of the price, otherwise, they couldn't afford the ride. Considering the effort to maintain this route and the fact that as a tourist you partially subsidize the ride for locals, one becomes reconciled with the ticket price. After nearly two hours of travel, we reached Agua Calientes, and the relaxation was over. Everything here is truly geared towards tourism, and there is a hectic atmosphere everywhere. We lined up very early the next morning for the still quite expensive bus tickets and were treated unfriendly like never before on this continent. Fortunately, we had already purchased the actual entrance tickets online (which is a gamble with a regularly crashing website), otherwise, we would have had to line up again here. Afterwards, we visited one of the overpriced restaurants directly by the river. Although we couldn't have a conversation due to the roaring of the river, it was exciting to watch this natural force. After that, we went to bed early to catch the first bus at 5:30 up the mountain to Machu Picchu.

The next morning - pouring rain. Cold, tired, and somewhat depressed, we trudged to the bus, obediently lined up again, and actually managed to take the first wave of tourists up the winding road to the entrance of Machu Picchu. On the way, we learned that our chosen route (when purchasing the entrance tickets, you have to decide on a specific path through the ruins), which was supposed to lead quite far up the mountain for a great view, was also closed due to landslides. Luckily, our guide, who must be booked obligatively to enter the ruins, organized that we could take a different path, and so we shuffled along with him and a group of very excited Polish ladies into the wall of fog. At first, visibility was really poor, and we waited on a plateau, where the iconic photo of Machu Picchu is usually taken, in vain for the clouds to clear. Gradually, more and more groups arrived, and our mood sank lower and lower until we convinced the guide that we could continue on our own since the Polish ladies wanted to wait until they could take their selfie.

And as soon as we were rid of the crowd, it was simply wonderful in the ruins. The crowds thinned out, it got brighter, and the sun fought its way through the cloud cover, and at times we even walked alone. We realized what a wonderful and fascinating place we were in. All the struggles were forgotten, and one was captivated by the beauty and mystique of this place.

Machu Picchu, which has neither been completely uncovered nor is its original name known, is very well preserved or reconstructed, but presents many mysteries. It could have either been a royal retreat or a religious site where medicinal herbs were cultivated. Whatever the intention of this city was, the construction was a masterpiece, for example, through deep foundations and a sophisticated drainage system that watered the terraces and prevented the city from being washed down the mountain during the rainy season. Its location between the Andes and the jungle could also have been strategically important. Even if the city may not have been fully completed at the time of the Spanish conquest, it could accommodate up to 1,000 people. It is likely that the paths to this hard-to-access area were destroyed, so the city was never found and long forgotten.

Long story short: we believe that it is entirely justified that Machu Picchu has been chosen as one of the seven wonders of the modern world, and it is definitely worth the trip! Completely enchanted, we wobbled back down the mountain by bus after a few hours and boarded the train towards Ollantaytambo. Not even the silly alpaca fashion show, performed by the poor train staff amidst annoying flute tunes and excited clapping, particularly from American tourists, or the long wait in Ollantaytambo until the mini-taxi to Cusco departed, could dampen our happiness, and so we returned to Cusco in the evening, tired and happy.

We took the night bus from Puno to Cusco - quite a twisting hellride over hills and stones, where the bus driver seemed to be racing against someone. So we arrived all crumpled and much too early, then had to sleep for a few hours in the hostel's entrance area until our beds were ready.

Cusco - once the capital of the Incas, offers a great mix of pre-Columbian archaeological sites and a well-planned but charming Spanish colonial architecture. It is - at least in the old town - heavily touristy, as it is the starting point for many excursions, hikes, and sights. We also traveled from here for several days into the Sacred Valley and to Machu Picchu, to Vinikunka (Rainbow Mountain), and later (when we were just the two of us again) into the rainforest in Manu National Park.

A special highlight in Cusco was the last Carnival parade (Kachapari) of the season; despite the rain, there was a fantastic atmosphere in the city.

Otherwise, we enjoyed this beautiful city and its good tourist infrastructure. Marike got a new rain jacket, Freddy new trekking shoes (the first pair was already worn out and the soles broken), and Mercedes found some nice little colorful souvenirs for her friends and family. The Mercado Central San Pedro was a really great market with a wonderful selection and incredibly delicious food. Shout out to market stand 903, you provided us with the best food of the entire trip so far, and just thinking about it makes our mouths water! There were also many nice cafes with tasty coffee and cakes, which we enjoyed a lot. Life is beautiful!

Holy Saint Florian, please set my little house on fire! Then I'll buy myself a ship, hooray, and sail to Lake Titicaca! 

The journey to Puno was quite intense. Tired from the Colca Canyon, with uncomfortable seats, annoying fellow travelers, bad weather, and cold. During the ride, Marike's rain jacket was stolen, and fittingly, we were dumped in the dark amidst pouring rain somewhere in the congested city.

The city itself didn't impress us either on the first impression or the second, had it not been for its location by Lake Titicaca! Partly belonging to Peru and partly to Bolivia, it lies at an altitude of 3812m in the Andes and is considered the birthplace of Inca culture. Its surface appeared extremely calm and sparkled with strong reflections. It is one of the largest lakes in South America and the highest navigable waterway in the world.

Fortunately, rain was followed by sunshine, and so we booked a day trip at the harbor to the floating islands of the Uros and the actual island of Taquile, which is inhabited by the Quechua-speaking Taquilenos. Our boat was in a miserable state, and it was a miracle that it still floated. The wild-looking captain had a good grip on the boat, which must have been challenging to handle (no reverse gear, constant adjustments needed), and skillfully navigated us through all the adversities.

Alongside a handful of tourists, mostly locals joined, who stoically endured the extra program on the Uros islands, resulting in significant delays before reaching their actual destination, Taquile Island.

The Uros are a small indigenous group that still partially lives on floating artificial islands on the lake. These island settlements were originally meant for defense, as they could be relocated in case of threat. The islands are made from totora reeds and consist of several layers: the foundation is made of bundled reed roots, on which several layers of cut reeds are added. The islands are drilled through and anchored with eucalyptus poles. The reed layers need constant renewal. According to the leader on the main island, who explained these details to us, an island has a maximum lifespan of 30 years, even with constant care and maintenance. The islands are not particularly beautiful; it's damp and musty, and there isn't a solid ground beneath your feet, but it is remarkable that a handful of Uros keeps this tradition alive.

Then we continued in radiant sunshine to the 'real' island of Taquile. It was quite tiring here as one had to overcome some altitude while walking across the island, and despite acclimatization, we sometimes ran out of breath. The landscape was magnificent and occasionally reminded us of Tuscany, and there was a special atmosphere on the island. All the locals wore (whether just for the benefit of the few tourists, we don't know) colorful traditional clothing, and in fact, the island is famous for its weaving and embroidery, which is mainly done by men.

On the opposite side of the island, we then headed back to Puno in a completely overloaded boat, we in the 'good seats' in the boat, a bunch of locals crammed and stacked in the back part of the boat.

After a lengthy journey that started at 4 a.m., we reached the upper edge of the canyon and the starting point of our hike, where we also stored most of our luggage.

Initially, it was very foggy, so unfortunately, we couldn't see any condors, which mainly circle early in the morning, but as soon as we began to hike, the weather cleared up considerably.

We then descended steeply in switchbacks, enjoying great views of the valley. After about 1200 meters of elevation loss, we reached the roaring Colca River, which carried a lot of water. Unfortunately, Freddy had significant issues with his shoes (after the hike, we found that the soles were broken and moisture had seeped in), and he experienced considerable pain while walking. But there was no choice; we had to ascend on the other side of the river!

By the way, the Colca Valley has been inhabited for a long time (even before the Incas arrived and established their presence) by various indigenous peoples (Collaguas and Cabanas), who built extensive step terraces for agriculture. Even today, some people still live under quite simple conditions in small villages scattered throughout the valley, which we crossed during our further hike on a high trail parallel to the river.

In the evening, as it got dark, we finally reached the Sangalli Oasis, where we stayed overnight. It was quite exhausting.

The next day, we could sleep in and enjoy the peace in the oasis. Just chilling in the hammock, watching the goats and chickens stroll by, splashing in the pool (which was quite chilly), or exploring the nearby surroundings with waterfalls and viewpoints. Wonderful!

Finally in Peru! As beautiful as Chile was, we were very excited about Peru, a new culture and new impressions!

Upon arriving in Arequipa, we first indulged in the large selection of fruits, super delicious, diverse, and cheap.

And from now on, we were three, as we met Marike's daughter Mercedes here, who wanted to accompany us for 2 weeks and then continue alone through Peru.

Arequipa is a wonderful city - planned by the Spaniards during the colonial era with many beautiful houses made of Silla, a white volcanic stone. It is picturesquely situated between volcanoes, including the beautiful Misti. Unfortunately, we could only admire this panorama once; otherwise, it was too cloudy. In the city center, there is the Santa Catalina Monastery, which is still inhabited by nuns. Its picturesque setting provides excellent photo opportunities. Additionally, there are many great museums, whether for young unknown artists, sacred works from the colonial era, or about the Incas, as well as the Aymaras and Quechuas. There were also some very well-preserved mummies on display, recovered from the craters of the volcanoes where they were sacrificed to the gods.

The city was lively, and around March 8th there were several demonstrations. Unfortunately, the Plaza del Armas, a beautiful square where there was always something happening and where we liked to sit and people-watch, was completely closed for several days. The reason for this was that a few carnival festivities had gotten a bit out of hand the weekend before, and some boys had climbed onto the fountain. It was hard to tell if anything was actually broken, but everyone was punished collectively, and the entire square was closed, which was a real shame!

We treated ourselves well, always eating delicious food, and then set off from here to the Colca Canyon.

We then waited for almost three and a half hours in the blazing sun for a replacement bus; the organization was really poorly prepared, and the mood was down.

In the morning, the weather was perfect, with clear sunshine and pleasant temperatures. But when we finally reached the mountain in the afternoon, it suddenly started raining, then hailing, and even snowing.

It got so cold that many from our group turned back, and our guide recommended us to go further up.

But we decided to go for it anyway because it was our last real day in Cusco, and we didn’t want to miss out on that.

I actually made it to the top of the mountain; the last 200 m were super exhausting.

That was the highest I had ever been in my life and on this trip.

Afterwards, we had a delicious lunch and we all went home totally exhausted.

On Friday, it was my departure day, and that’s when the flight chaos started.

My flight was at 21:30 in the evening, so I left my host family at six to be on time at the airport. Unfortunately, my flight was delayed and then cancelled.

This dragged on until about 1:00 AM, and from that moment on, I knew I wouldn’t be able to catch my connecting flights to Europe. This stressed me out a lot since it was just before Christmas, and I didn’t know how I would get home.

I called Mom and Dad in the middle of the night and we discussed how to proceed.

I then returned to my host family to at least get about 2 hours of sleep and then be back at the airport at 4:00 AM to catch my rescheduled flights to Ecuador. Those were three flights where I was super tired and a bit frazzled. In Quito, I stayed with my host mom Monica again, who kindly took me in for one more night.

That felt really good, I slept for 12 hours, took a shower, and zoomed back to the airport the next day. In the meantime, Mom and Dad had booked me a very nice return flight from Quito to Amsterdam.

From then on, everything went perfectly; after about 18 hours of travel, I was back in Frankfurt. I was welcomed so nicely; Emma had made a sign, and Tina, Philipp, Mom, Dad, and Emma picked me up from the airport :)

So here I am again, back in Europe, back in Germany. The first few days felt really strange, adjusting back to our normal life felt decadent. But the first hot shower was incredibly wonderful, and the warm floor at home is true luxury.

In my next post, I would like to revisit my experiences in detail. Thank you already for your support and for regularly reading 💓

Thank you to everyone who accompanied, supported, and followed my trip. 

It truly was the trip of my life ❤️

With much gratitude in my heart, I say goodbye until the next and final post!

Your Paula 

Hello dear ones,

The adventure in Peru has now been going on for a week, and I've experienced so much again!

I'm really enjoying my time here, although the culture shock is significant.

Cusco is a very beautiful, lively, and colorful city, but also incredibly dirty, poor, and loud. In the past few days, I've been exploring the city a lot and checking out the main squares. For instance, I visited the large market, where you can buy souvenirs, as well as fruits, vegetables, and meat! It wasn't very appetizing, as the meat isn't refrigerated or stored hygienically. Speaking of meat, there are not just beef and chicken available, but also specialties like guinea pig, frogs, sheep, and alpaca to buy :)

I strolled through the streets, and the smell is not pleasant. However, everything is incredibly cheap here; the currency is Soles, where four Soles equal one Euro :) A meal in a restaurant costs about 20 Soles, which is approximately 5€.

Additionally, my project on the animal farm started this week, which is really fun. Besides alpacas and bears, there are many parrots, condors, and even small monkeys. It's a sort of rescue center/zoo with rescued animals from all over Peru. Many of the parrots, for example, were confiscated by customs after being discovered at the airport, as they were illegally smuggled animals.

And the monkeys, who were kept illegally as pets for a long time. The stories are very sad, but the animals are better off now and well cared for.

My task mainly involves a lot of cleaning and then playing with the animals; I get to feed them and take them out of their enclosures.

However, I was only at the project for two days last week because I was already heading for the last big highlight of my trip that weekend on Friday. And that was to Machu Picchu🤩

I had been looking forward to it for a long time, and we booked the tickets almost a month in advance. Unfortunately, the trip didn't go as I had wished. On Friday, Cédric, my travel companion from Belgium, wasn't feeling well because he had a food infection. He had to vomit all night - guess who caught it next!

The journey was still quite calm; we were first picked up by a bus and then traveled through the beautiful mountain landscape on a very luxurious train.

We arrived in a small village, which was very touristy but still quite charming. Since Cédric was still feeling unwell, he stayed at the hostel while Oz and I went out for a delicious lunch. That was my last meal on this trip, after which we went to the so-called hot springs, which were quite cool.

Back at the hostel, I also realized that I felt really nauseous, and from then on, it went downhill!

Unfortunately, I also had to vomit frequently, and nothing stayed in my stomach. Since my symptoms were similar to Cédric's, we believe that I caught it from him; he had eaten some not well-cooked chicken a few days ago, and that's likely what caused the salmonella that affected us both.

With the hope that I would feel better the next morning, we went to bed early. We had to wake up early since we bought tickets to Machu Picchu for 6:00 AM. Initially, I was still feeling okay.

However, once we got to the top, I unfortunately couldn't do anything anymore! The effort of climbing up the steps completely exhausted me, and I almost vomited in corners multiple times :)

My stomach cramps got worse, and ultimately I had to abandon my tour out of frustration; the guys continued a bit longer, but Cédric wasn't feeling great either. While waiting for the guys, a very sweet street dog came over and comforted me a bit.

Back in the city, after almost 40 minutes of winding roads, we rested and I managed to return to Cusco!

I spent Sunday very quietly and slept a lot, now I’m feeling better :)

What an experience!

Today is Monday, which means I have four more days here in Cusco! I want to make the most of them and hope that I can travel home healthy and happy :)

Enjoy the beautiful pictures from Peru&

Make sure to cook your chicken well!!

hasta luego 💞

Paulita

Ollantaytambo nestles into the narrow valley, and the small alleys remain relatively untouched — they follow the original layout from Inca times. Although it is a tourist spot, the place feels idyllic and has its own charm.

 

Surrounding Ollantaytambo, there are many large temple complexes on the slopes. The main complex consists of terraces at the bottom, used for growing corn, potatoes, etc. At the upper part, there is the Sun Temple made from huge, heavy stone blocks.

The Incas adapted their constructions to the natural surroundings and oriented them according to specific constellations.

Above Ollantaytambo, there is a massive face silhouette in a steep cliff above the town. This is no coincidence: It has been proven that the rock was worked on to achieve the facial features of the Inca god Viracocha. In the photo (mid left), the male face with a beard is clearly visible. At the beginning of the winter solstice, a star constellation (Pleiades) is right at the level of the head!

On the outskirts of the town, we climb up the slopes. Various plants were cultivated on numerous terraces. The view of the valley and the historical sites is magnificent.

We continue our journey through the Urubamba Valley to Pisac, our second stop! Above the peaceful little town, extensive structures from the Inca era climb up into the mountains. Especially impressive are the huge terraces that were created for agriculture. The area around Pisac was the granary for the nearby Inca capital, Cusco, as the climate in this valley is very mild. We take a tuk-tuk up to the citadel at the upper part and then walk back down for several hours. Here, we do not encounter the crowds like at Machu Picchu; we hardly meet other visitors and enjoy the tranquil panorama!

 

We can recognize numerous rock tombs in a steep slope. During the Inca era, mummified relatives were laid to rest there. Many grave goods and mummies were plundered, but there are still individual mummies in the mountains today that are protected.

In addition to visiting the two Inca sites, we have arranged to be taken to the Mountain Hotel: The facility sits high on the mountain above the valley. Besides a terrace with a restaurant, there are accommodations in glass domes or in smaller capsules that hang directly in a cliff. We choose a glass dome - it is a bit cheaper, larger, and has its own bathroom. The overnight stay costs us quite a few dollars, but with the unique view of Mount Veronica and its glacial ice, it's absolutely worth it!

After returning to Cusco, we can finally continue our journey; during the holidays and into January, we will be on the Caribbean islands of San Andres and Providencia.

The surroundings of Cusco are sprinkled with countless, very impressive temple ruins from the Inca period. A feat was accomplished in shaping the stones so that they fit together perfectly without joints. To this day, it is still not entirely clear how the sometimes ton-weight stones were transported and stacked on top of each other!

 

The Inca sanctuaries were decorated with vast amounts of gold and silver. This is what the Spaniards coveted, who occupied the Inca Empire in the 16th century and initiated its decline. Most of the structures were destroyed. In Cusco itself, the largest sanctuary, the Temple of the Sun, was built over with a church. It was lined with pure gold and was also plundered by the Spaniards.

 

In the city's museums, we learn more details about the fascinating life of the Inca! But many facts about Inca life are still unknown today, as they did not have their own writing system (but did have a knot system to document the transport of goods). We mainly know how the Incas lived back then from reports by the Spaniards. These sources should, of course, be viewed with caution!

However, it is clear: The Inca believed in various gods connected to the earth, nature, and the stars. The world was divided into three levels: the condor represented the sky, the puma the earth, and the snake the world of the dead.

In addition to animal sacrifices, there were also human sacrifices, although these occurred relatively rarely. In times of great trouble, such as famines or upon the death of a ruler, the Inca wanted to appease their gods. Especially children around the age of 10 were considered pure and were to establish a connection to their ancestors by transitioning to the world of the dead.

The Inca also had mummies, and many of them! It was customary for the deceased to be mummified. In many locations in the Andes, they were buried in cave graves. According to Inca belief, they continued to live and were therefore regularly provided for with coca leaves and chicha (a type of corn beer). Since valuable offerings like gold were also found in the graves, the Spaniards plundered them, and only a few have survived!

 

Even today, real mummies can be visited in the Qorikancha Museum in Cusco; they are quite well-preserved.

It's also exciting for us that the Inca modified their head shape. During the growth of children, their skulls were shaped using bands into a broader or longer form. This likely marked their social status and was ordered by the rulers to solidify their own power.

 

After this excursion into the past, here are our impressions of today's Cusco: culinarily, the city boasts an excellent density of outstanding restaurants and cafés, including some vegetarian or vegan options! 

There are various types of kombucha and specially brewed craft beer. Coffee and chocolate are sourced directly from Peru and are of excellent quality 🤩

 

We are taking a cooking course. With the friendly chef Ronal, we first go shopping at the famous San Pedro market. There we find all the delicious fruits that Peru has to offer, including mango, chirimoya, pepino dulce, and lucuma. We particularly enjoy the granadilla, a type of passion fruit with sweet seeds, some of which are a bit sour 😋

Afterward, we get to prepare the Peruvian dishes Ceviche (national dish made from raw fish) and Lomo Saltado (a type of meat stir-fry with sirloin steak) in a vegetarian version. The ceviche, made with onions, chili, mushrooms, and lime juice, is very tasty, and the fresh Pisco Sour is too 😋

 

Next, we indulge in a chocolate workshop. We learn everything about the chocolate from Peru, taste various types, and experience how chocolate is made. 

Peru is among the top 10 cocoa-producing countries worldwide - some countries, like Ivory Coast and Indonesia, are at the top, with Peru following Brazil and Ecuador.

After harvesting, fermenting, and drying, we start the next steps of production: we roast and grind the cocoa beans, then they are mixed and heated. During the mixing process, it is decided what type of chocolate it will be: dark chocolate (cocoa mass, sugar, and cocoa butter), milk chocolate (cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter, and milk), or white chocolate (cocoa butter, sugar, and milk). The highest quality chocolate is dark chocolate, while the lowest quality doesn’t even contain cocoa butter but uses cheaper palm oil instead.

The cocoa varieties also differ and have different taste notes depending on the growing region. Chocolate from near Cusco has more of a coffee taste, while chocolate from the jungle tastes more like banana or citrus. We prefer the “coffee taste” the most 😋

In the end, our own chocolate was finished - with self-chosen additional ingredients like nuts and coconut!

 

 

After our trip to Machu Picchu, we spend most of our time in the historic district of San Blas with its narrow, steep streets and beautiful courtyards!

 

We spend about two weeks here, as the processing of my new passport takes some time (it was unfortunately stolen at a bus station in southern Peru). Although Cusco even has an honorary consulate, the Peruvian civil registry must transfer the passport number at the end - this feels like rocket science; however, I eventually receive the tip to simply go to the airport, and we can continue our travels!

I will report on our trip to the Sacred Valley of the Incas in a separate post!

There are several trail options to Machu Picchu - the classic Inca Trail is already fully booked six months in advance and is around $1000, making it the most expensive. Other options can also be booked at short notice.

Our first day starts with a mountain bike descent from over 4000 m down into the valley. For me, it’s not very technically challenging since it’s just on asphalt roads. However, it’s nice to see how the landscape changes around us.

In the afternoon, we have an enjoyable rafting trip. Katha and I sit at the front of the boat, which sways quite a bit at times!

The first stop is a simple eco-lodge located on a wooded hillside.

We are in the higher jungle area of the cloud forests. The climate is less hot, but it can be particularly foggy in the mornings. By now, the rainy season has set in the Andes, and showers and sun alternate continuously!

On the way, we make a stop at a farm and visit the guinea pigs, which are traditionally kept on the kitchen floor. They are considered a delicacy in Peru - fortunately, we only see them alive 🥰

The next morning, our guide shows us how to roast and grind coffee from raw coffee beans by hand. The beans are from their own cultivation - an incomparable aroma! There’s also homemade chocolate!

After receiving more information about the way of life of the local indigenous population, we set off. The Inca trail is steep and winds along rock steps on the slope. Scenic, but also a thrill!

After that, we walk through a fascinating jungle landscape: Many fruits are ripe at this time, mangos, avocados, cacao, and some unfamiliar fruits hang in the bushes and trees.

Just before the end, we have to cross a rushing river in an adventurous way: We sit down and get pulled across to the other shore by ropes.

After a long day of hiking, we are allowed to relax in hot thermal baths! The pools are beautifully designed and hug the bare rock wall.

On the third day, ziplining is on the agenda. It’s our first time and very exciting! We have to brake ourselves on the wire with one hand, which isn't easy even with special gloves.

For lunch, we walk alongside the railway tracks to the town of Aguas Calientes - the town below Machu Picchu. It’s a very touristy and not particularly special place. We use our time there to regenerate.

On the fourth day comes the grand finale. We get up at half past four in the night and set off. It’s more than an hour of steep ascent, step by step.

Shortly after 6 AM, we are among the first visitors at the entrance - the site is still empty. Despite the cold weather and fog, we are able to catch some great views of the ruins of Machu Picchu.

Many questions remain unanswered: When was Machu Picchu built? How was the site used exactly? How were the heavy stones worked and seamlessly stacked at 2400 m?

Still half asleep, we take the train back towards Cusco through the Sacred Valley.

After my adventure on the volcano, I spent the week very relaxed.

Of course, I was still involved in the project at the school, and in the afternoons, Linda and I explored the city. One time we visited the basilica, which is truly beautiful, and another time we went to a large market.

Moreover, we were at the equator!

It was amazing, Quito is not only the highest capital city in the world above sea level but also the only one located on the equator.

As a result, Ecuador has no seasons, and the clock is set up differently, aligned with the sun from 6 to 6.

Slowly, however, the adventure in Ecuador was coming to an end, and now comes the big surprise! We're not going home yet, but to Peru:))

I decided this about a month ago and am incredibly happy and grateful to be able to travel to this wonderful country as well. So, on Saturday, I had to say goodbye to my host family in Quito, but it didn't go as planned to Frankfurt; instead, I had a layover in Lima before heading to Cusco in Peru!

What a great opportunity! Here too, I was warmly welcomed and live with a host mother and her two sons. I have a single room and two very scary dogs as neighbors.

Since I just arrived last night, I can't share too much yet, but the first impression is definitely great! Cusco is not as big as Quito, and there are many nice, very modern restaurants. Moreover, it's significantly cheaper :)

Stay tuned for the next two weeks,

There's a lot planned :)

Here in South America, one would say

“que bacan” that I can do this- meaning how cool!

I will not get tired of traveling, and my joy in new cultures and people continues to grow and grow :)

THANK YOU to Mom and Dad for always supporting me in my plans- you are the best ❤️ without you, I wouldn't be here!

So now sending lots of love from the city of Cusco located at 3400m:

I hug you all,

Your Paulita

Our destination is Isla del Sol (Sun Island), which we will reach by small boat. For the Inca, the Sun Island was the origin of everything: The sun god Inti brought the first Inca to Earth here: Mama Ocllo and her husband Manco Cápac. However, there are also traces of the Tiwanaku culture, which existed even before.

We really like it here – especially after climbing the breathtaking Inca staircase from the boat dock! The island is very mountainous, and in the southern part there are many beautiful accommodations with views down to the lake. Our accommodation, "Casa de la Luna," is fantastic!

Life for the inhabitants is arduous. Everything, whether food and drink, clothing, furniture, or building materials: everything has to be brought by boat and hauled up the mountain on donkeys or on people's backs.

On the second day, we explore the island in more detail. We embark on an 8-hour hike to the northern part of the island and return along the shoreline. The atmosphere and the rugged scenery with breathtaking views of Lake Titicaca are absolutely worth it!

After two days, we docked back on the mainland. On the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca, we then visited the floating islands of the Uros people! We spent two nights on one island – an absolute highlight! Our host, Felix, shared an incredible amount of knowledge about his culture with us.

In the vast bay off the city of Puno lies a sprawling reed landscape crisscrossed by waterways. The Uros people live there on self-made, floating islands of reeds. The fresh green parts of the reeds are even edible! The Uros also weave them into very sturdy objects, such as baskets, figures, and animal figures.

The community is spread out over a wide area and has its own schools, shops, and even small sports fields located on islands. Felix's island is further north from Puno; the water there is very clear, and we find the atmosphere very idyllic. In the evening, we take a trip in the hotel's canoe.

Online sources claim that it's all just a show and that the islands are only populated by tourists during the day. Certainly, there are islands that are operated as tourist attractions. Tourism is the main source of income for the Uros people.

Uro Felix, however, does indeed live on his own island with his wife and son, which must be regularly covered with new reeds to prevent it from sinking. When boats pass by, the island rocks gently back and forth with the waves.

These days, every family has their own solar panels on their island for electricity . The sun really beats down here, which is convenient 🌞 Life on Felix's island is much more comfortable than you might think: Tastefully furnished houses with terraces are available for visitors, offering electricity, running water, a private toilet, and a bit of internet access.

Each island is secured with several anchors to prevent it from drifting away! This also allows two islands to be connected if families join forces, or an island can simply be moved if there is a dispute with the neighbors.

Finally, we took a boat to Amantani Island. The people here live very simply and grow their own quinoa, potatoes, corn, etc.! The food is delicious! From the center of the island, we had a magnificent view – but it was quite windy 😁

We left Lake Titicaca and traveled on to the heart of the Inca Empire, to Cusco! Unfortunately, my daypack, including my passport, was stolen at a bus station along the way. Luckily, there's an honorary consulate in Cusco, so I was able to get a replacement relatively quickly.

Of course, we also visited the famous Colca Canyon, and it was stunning. We booked a 2-day tour and were glad we had that extra day. The Colca Canyon is quite far from Arequipa, so we didn't have to cram everything into one day. We stayed overnight in a lodge that not only had a life-sized wooden condor (these birds are huge!), but also a fireplace. So, in the evening, we sat by the fire and enjoyed a fine hot chocolate while reflecting on the day’s experiences. The next morning, we got up early so we could see the condors. At the first viewpoint, we had no luck. However, when we rode down into the valley a bit on our bikes, we were suddenly surprised by two condors gliding higher into the sky. Wow, what luck! :-) The ride on the bike was also very impressive. The entire valley is filled with terraces that have been cultivated for centuries. This gives the valley a special 'appearance' that we really liked.

From the end of October, I was traveling alone again. Since I liked Arequipa so much, I stayed for another week longer. During that time, I probably visited every alley in Arequipa and tried out many different coffee shops ;-). Additionally, I took a day tour to a small salt flat, where we took fun photos with the group and I could enjoy the barren (but beautiful!) landscape of the Altiplano.

Cusco is situated at 3,400 meters above sea level, and you really feel it in the first few days: just a little bit of climbing stairs left us completely out of breath. We were advised to take it easy for the first few days, sleep a lot, and drink even more. After a few days of acclimatization, it started getting better. At least for me: unfortunately, my colleague felt really unwell, and as a result, we had to arrange a short stay in the hospital. Fortunately, everything went smoothly without complications, and after one night, she was able to go home. However, I did the Lares Trek alone, as that route goes over 4,700 meters above sea level.

So on Monday morning, the trekking began. And who would have thought: I was alone, well, almost alone. Our group consisted of my guide (Josef), the head chef (Jesus), the mule whisperer (Paulinho), and me. Wow, what luck. I actually had a private trek. First, we drove by car to the small village of Lares (3,400 m.ü.M), where the actual hike began: via Wilkukasa Pass (4,400 m.ü.M.) to the village Quiswarani (3,850 m.ü.M.). There we set up our camp, and I practically froze, even though I was wearing 1,000 layers of clothing. I had probably become a bit of a jungle person and could no longer bear the cold. Luckily, there was hot tea and super delicious food. Paulinho, our mule whisperer, seemed to feel the cold at all. I almost fell off my chair when I saw that he was walking around barefoot in sandals and only wearing 3/4 pants... Fortunately, I had a good sleeping bag and thus had a restful night in the tent.

In the morning at 5:00 am, I was woken up with a hot coca tea. After a nice breakfast, we set off: via Qoyalay Lake (4,140 m.ü.M.) to the highest point (Pachacutec Pass 4,700 m.ü.M.) and from there back down to the village Cancha Cancha (3,950 m.ü.M.), where we had lunch. Since we were moving faster than planned (yay, despite the altitude, I felt quite well, my lungs and legs were holding up nicely :-)), Josef suggested continuing on to the next stage so that we could spend the night at a lower altitude. So we walked on to the village of Huaran, which was ‘only’ at 2,920 m.ü.M. Here it was noticeably warmer, and I no longer had to freeze. After a nice dinner, I went to bed early since I was pretty exhausted after this hiking day. In the end, we overcame a lot of altitude and covered many kilometers.

That was already the last night in the tent. The next morning, we then drove to Maras to see the salt terraces. After two days alone in nature (we had only encountered 2 tourists), the crowds of people at this tourist spot almost overwhelmed me. However, the terraces are indeed impressive.

We spent the following night in Ollantaytambo and the next morning took the train to kilometer point 105. From there, we hiked the last part of the Inca Trail. The nature in this area was again very different from what we had experienced on the Lares Trail. During the hike on the Lares Trek, the landscape was very barren. Here on the Inca Trail, we found ourselves back in the jungle and were surrounded by trees and plants. After several hours of hiking and many stairs (by the end, both my guide Josef and I were very exhausted. The last few days had taken their toll, and every additional step was a bit of a struggle ;-)), we were rewarded with a breathtaking view of Machu Picchu. Wow - that was truly impressive, and every step and every kilometer run was more than worth it!

2-3 anecdotes:

• My guide had a cramp in his calf during the tour of Machu Picchu on the last day ;-). Good sign for me because I felt my calves at every step...
• In Machu Picchu, there are llamas and alpacas as 'decoration' and 'lawnmowers'. I watched as a clumsy alpaca 'fell' from a wall while it was scratching itself (the wall wasn't high, and it didn't hurt the alpaca - but it looked lovely anyway ;-))
• In Aguas Calientes, there are very aggressive mosquitoes. We saw quite a few completely bitten tourists... If anyone goes there: definitely wear long clothing or use a very effective mosquito spray.