Once again observing the events at breakfast. Today, there are large carafes (not the 1-liter glass jug like yesterday) with freshly squeezed orange juice on the buffet, but unfortunately, such orange juice often has the downside that it contains pulp, which fits only partially through these normal small juice taps. There was enough juice available, but it just wouldn't get into the glass.

Oh, what can I say - it is what it is - a breakfast that you start to tire of after 4 days.

Today, we still have the visit to the Gruta do Carvão ahead. You can only access this lava cave with a guided tour. Luckily, we managed to get tickets for the short tour (30-45 minutes) 3 days ago.

Facts:

Gruta do Carvão (translated as Coal Cave) is located in the western part of the city of Ponta Delgada and is a lava tube about 2500 meters long, of which only 1912 m are developed. Only a small section is accessible to the public. But how does such a lava tube form?

A lava tube forms when lava flows and the surface cools and hardens while the inner layer continues to flow. Eventually, the lava ceases, leaving behind a hollow space with a tunnel-like structure.

In 2005, the cave was recognized as a natural monument, which complicated highway expansion. The areas above the Gruta da Carvão were only allowed to be used as pastures. No houses, streets, or other structures were permitted. An exception was made only for the highway.

There is a helmet requirement here. Then down some stairs and into the lava cave. Very pleasant temperatures; as our guide said, “like in a wine cellar, just without wine.” The cave was short, but the tour with Hugo was very informative. Hugo was completely in his element; you could tell he is passionate about the subject.

We were a bit disappointed that we got to see so little of the 1.9 km of cave, but 45 minutes isn't long either.

But then Hugo goes through a concrete tube into another cave. This concrete tube was built for the highway. That is the only area where something runs above the cave.

This cave is also impressive.

Overall, the visit lasts 1 and a half hours.

For the rest of the day, shopping and pool time are on the agenda.

But before we pack, we need to refuel. Farewell dinner at the Indian restaurant. It's a shame that today is already Tuesday again, as this greatly reduces the potential restaurants. It's best to come to Ponta Delgada on Thursdays or Fridays when all restaurants are open. But we manage to find a delightful meal at SAFFRRON INDIAN RESTAURANT.

It's quite strange that everywhere in the Azores you get rice with your meal, only at the Indian restaurant must you order it separately. Crazy world.

Now it's time to pack and then off to bed. Tomorrow we head home.

Oh, we are kind of lagging behind in our reporting, so we will quickly breakfast through the uneventful return journey.

Everything went smoothly; even the ICE was on time. But it's crazy that for a pure flight time of 5 hours, you're traveling from 4:15 to 22:00, almost 17 hours from the hotel to the front door.

So, dear reader community. That's it for this year, we hope you enjoyed it and were able to take away some new impressions. We would have liked to share more pictures with you, but this version of Vakantio only allows for 20. But this way, we have something to look forward to when we see each other again. Thank you for your loyalty and perhaps until next year 🫶

The night was short because while Schahaatz snores quietly beside me, the espresso or the espresso martini keeps me awake.

Today we’re on to the next full itinerary.

Lagoa da Fogo, tea plantation, then to Furnas and in the evening we’ll have dinner at the famous restaurant Tony’s, known from television.

The weather is bad. Gray on gray, foggy and rainy. The best conditions to see something. A sense of lethargy spreads, throwing off our planned departure time.

With an hour delay, we set off. The drive up to Lagoa Fogo already hints at how beautiful the view will be. And the tip from the internet to hike up to the transmission masts on Pico da Barrosa doesn’t make it any better.

On our way up, we were delighted that there were so few vehicles on the road, just a few large tour buses and another car creeping in front of us, until we saw the sign on our way down stating that only authorized vehicles are allowed to ascend from 9 AM to 8 PM. But even though we weren't allowed to drive up, at least we parked properly in the designated car park.

Through the thick fog, we make our way back down from the volcano and head to one of the two only tea plantations in Europe. Tea has been cultivated here in the Azores for almost 180 years.

Facts:

Due to the decline of orange cultivation, the Society for the Promotion of Agriculture in São Miguel wanted to utilize the land differently and planted seeds brought from Brazil in 1848 on various fields, marking the beginning of tea production in the Azores. Despite the initial enthusiasm, there was a lack of technical knowledge for the efficient cultivation of tea. To overcome this challenge, the Chinese tea master Lau-a-Pan and his assistants and interpreter Lau-a-Teng were brought over to impart the ancient wisdom of tea production.

By the end of the nineteenth century, tea was already regarded as an important source of wealth for the Azores, as several factories were in operation. However, the challenges of the twentieth century, including mass emigration and changes in labor laws following the revolution of April 25, 1974, resulted in the closure of all tea factories, except for the Gorreana tea factory, which has been operating continuously since 1883.

However, this place is a tourist mass processing facility. Nothing romantic, no tea pickers deftly plucking the tender leaves. The only thing still done by hand is sorting the stems from the tea - for the premium tea. The rest - from harvesting to teabag - is all done by machine.

After a few pictures, we leave the hectic activity behind and drive towards the Farolim dos Fenais da Ajuda lighthouse. Why that particular one, you might wonder? Because the pictures on the internet looked good and it actually fit well into the route. But, the lighthouse is just a miniature version of a real lighthouse, still nice. The cliffs around it also make for great photos.

So, just a short stop at the lighthouse since the Terra-Nostra Park in Furnas with its pool of naturally brown iron-rich thermal water closes at 4:30 PM and we're already a bit behind schedule.

When the park is open, this tranquil spot of Furnas comes under exceptional circumstances. Everywhere there are parked cars and streams of people. We also have to search for a long time for a parking space, as all the designated spots are full.

Facts:

The Terra-Nostra Park (“Our Earth Park”) is a botanical garden. The park boasts one of the largest collections of camellias in the world with over 600 different species, and also holds Europe’s largest collection of sago palm ferns.

The garden was founded in 1780, when the then consul of the United States of America built his summer residence here on the island of São Miguel, which then became known as Yankee Hall.

Only in the mid-19th century did the area of two hectares gradually expand. One of the main attractions is the pool of naturally brown thermal water with a temperature of 38 °C.

Quickly paying 17€ per person and jumping into the brown broth - just like Tim Mälzer did.

(Just a quick background: Tim Mälzer, known from the show Kitchen Impossible, had to cook the national dish here once and he was here beforehand showing off his usual worker’s neckline in this pool.

The pool itself isn’t that crowded, but the changing rooms and toilets are a disaster.

But we’re in. And it’s wonderfully warm - at least for me.

Unfortunately, we had to quickly see the park because they wouldn’t stay open forever.

Next highlight is the typical dish Cozido à Portuguesa at Tony’s.

It mainly consists of vegetables, meat, sausages, and rice or potatoes. The traditional method of preparation involves burying the pot in a hole in the ground and allowing the dish to cook from volcanic heat for 6 hours.

This is done once a day and taken out at lunchtime. In the evening, you then get the kept warm dish served. I had read some comments online mentioning that the food wasn’t hot and the meat was dry. And it was a bit like that, but with the provided jus, it was totally delicious.

The portion was huge and we were stuffed. A little walk to the fumaroles at Lagoa de Furnas was just right.

Facts:

In the valley, there are a total of 23 warm to hot mineral springs and fumaroles, known as Caldeiras, with water temperatures of up to 98 degrees. The volcanic activities mainly manifest in the so-called Caldeiras, which are steaming spots of boiling water. They are the main attraction of Furnas, visible from afar.

The winding road home, it is now 8 PM, with beautiful sunshine brings forth the hope that we might still see Lagoa da Fogo legally today (remember the beginning of the report?) and that’s exactly how it was - including the sunset. A great end to the day.

Today we start our journey to the 6th and last island of our island hopping, to São Miguel.

And although we got up at 7:00 AM, things always end up being hectic and annoying at the last minute. The nice thing about these small mini-airports is that you don't have to be there 2 hours in advance. I’d say 1 hour would be sufficient. No lines at check-in and nothing going on at security check. Today we have the luxury of experiencing 2 takeoffs and landings. First step from Flores to Horta. 

The plane, a bit larger than the one on the outbound flight. We take off 30 minutes later than planned, but since we have a 2.5-hour layover in Horta, that's quite convenient for us. The flight goes smoothly, and the captain manages to utilize the entire runway to brake and avoid falling off the back into the sea.

With a 20-minute delay, we take off again at 2:00 PM. In the Azores, it’s like the German railway - schedules are just guidelines. We can only count ourselves lucky that we're even flying - it could be worse.

Our fear of getting stranded on Flores (if we even make it) thankfully has not materialized.

The 2nd flight also goes without any notable incidents.

GDESK (thoughts that come to mind): 

I don’t know if it’s getting older, but I keep thinking about what it must be like to crash. What must one feel and think - can one still think then? Or like today when the steward disappeared with his toothpaste, brush, and water bottles in the bathroom. He could have been a terrorist and blown up the toilet (right near the captain) - can anyone on row 4 survive that? Nothing happened, he just brushed his teeth - so I have to push those thoughts away, since flying is still the safest means of transport. But those thoughts do flare up from time to time. A sign not to fly anymore? A clear no.

Let’s take some time for a few facts:

São Miguel is the largest island. It is known for its volcanoes, flora and fauna (including whales). The island is 63.7 km long and 16.1 km wide. About 140,000 people live on São Miguel, around half of them in the capital, Ponta Delgada.

Attractions include the capital Ponta Delgada with its history. The crater lake of Sete Cidades with its green and blue parts is located in the northwest. In the east, you find Furnas with its fumaroles and mineral springs and the tea plantations.

You see, it’s still a tight schedule. I hope we can also find time to enjoy our wellness hotel. But the weather doesn’t look too promising for the next few days. We will see.

This time we won’t get the rental car at the airport but will be taken 10 minutes to a station by shuttle. We need to discuss this strange planning with Kitzi again when we’re back home.

There we will find a vehicle that, despite all good will and with 8 eyes closed, is not roadworthy.

After a long discussion and wild upset from the rental company (even though they were cursing in Portuguese, the word SunnyCars came up quite often), we got another vehicle.

Next curiosity - if you have to return the car outside of business hours (8 AM to 8 PM), as we have to do at 4:30 AM, it costs €35. They save on the counter at the airport and then charge for it, even though they don’t provide the shuttle service to return the car to the airport. And then we are supposed to leave the car open at the airport and put everything in the glove compartment including the key. Well 🤨 and then it’s suddenly stolen???? Well, that would definitely be a lucrative business model to get rid of old junk cars. Let’s see what else awaits us.

The Vila Galé Collection São Miguel Hotel compensates for all the stress. A really great hotel.

After a quick look at Tripadvisor, we decided on the restaurant A Tasca.

A quick cocktail at the hotel bar and off we go.

The entire downtown area is decorated in a Mediterranean style. Tomorrow is the Ponta Delgada White Ocean Fest. We are so lucky to experience this highlight.

Of course, we have to wait at the restaurant because 6:30 PM without a reservation is a bit too late.

Waiting spot 9. on the handwritten note. We snag a spot at the bar next door with the same name and meet Carlos, over wine and octopus salad. 

He is Portuguese, who lived in Florida for a long time, now works at a hotel here on the island, was married twice, has 5 children, and his first wife lives back in Venezuela. A nice sociable guy, the hour of waiting passes quickly. The food was very delicious.

After a beer and 2 Vinho Abafado (a wine liqueur - super delicious), we only needed a little tap on the back, and then it was off to bed. 

A deja vu. No rain forecasted, yet it's raining. Just yesterday, we had considered taking a 7.5-hour boat tour around Flores and to Corvo with GetYourGuide today. But the view from the window at 7:00 AM made us abandon those plans.

Thus, we set off, despite the unpredicted rain, after an extensive breakfast, heading north to the other end of the island.

The winding road snakes along the coast, and eventually, the clouds begin to clear.

But we cannot stay up here forever, so we must head back into the soup.

Over Morro Alto, we make a short stop at Miradouro da Caldeira Seca, overlooking the long straight road - a popular photo spot -

back home. Via a familiar route

 

Quickly grabbing something to eat before heading off to a four-day sports event with evening shows. Today, Stereo Mode & Marisa Oliveira perform.

The band covers radio hits, and the singer has an incredible voice. Marisa Oliveira was not on stage for as long as we were there.

After a beer and some dancing, we drift away - a great ending for Flores.

But we had booked another whale tour for the finale. In the 3.5 hours, we saw common dolphins, pilot whales, rare 2-toothed beaked whales, even rarer pygmy sperm whales, and again their larger relatives. We even got to briefly observe a quite large sea turtle in the Atlantic.

Lovingly, a separator wakes us at 8:45 - okay, that's not entirely accurate - Schahaatz has been awake for 5 minutes before the nasty noise.

The night went like this - I've had better ones on this vacation.

Finally, it stopped raining and the sun is coming out. We're taking it easy today. And even though there's no rain forecasted for today - it rains from time to time. Apparently, nothing works here without a rain jacket. But it wouldn't have stayed dry for long with the rain yesterday either. When we rode down the mountain for lunch, a group of hikers was walking down the street, water was running in and out of them; I really felt sorry for them.

Around noon, the clouds break and we set off. Inland, there are some crater lakes to see. The way there is adventurous. A 10% incline pushes our Opel Corsa to its limits. In first gear, at 4000 RPM, we climb the hill at 15 km/h. I was worried we might tip over backward, so I leaned forward just in case. Schahaatz had tried to drive in second gear, but he couldn't even pull a dead fish from the plate - so we went back to first.

From the Miradouro da Caldeira Negra e da Caldeira Comprida, you can look into both crater lakes. The clouds have cleared.

then we go to the westernmost point of Europe in Fajã Grande. Those narrow streets make the drive there not easy.

Today, the Atlantic is anything but calm.

From the parking lot, there’s a path paved with stones leading uphill. Since it poured yesterday like crazy, the path is quite slippery in places. Going up is not that bad, but I'm dreading the return trip. But for now, let's focus on going up.

The exhausting effort is rewarded with a fantastic spot.

I could sit here for hours watching the waterfalls - it's so meditative.

Today we are smart; we plan to stop at a restaurant on the way back to the apartment because we don't want a repeat of yesterday's drama. And if you're already out and about, it just makes sense.

We choose a pizzeria, Cana Roca.

We actually wanted to go there yesterday, but after not finding an open (4 total) and available (0 without reservation) restaurant in the island's capital, the rain forced us to turn back.

At 6:00 PM today, we are the only guests here. The pizza is super delicious.

The day starts with a coffee by the pool.

and the first whale sighting of the day.

According to Wetter.com, the clouds are supposed to break up at 1:05 PM today, revealing Mount Pico in all its splendor and grandeur. We definitely don't want to miss this, so after a hearty breakfast of scrambled eggs (there are still 15 eggs in the fridge for tomorrow) and researching the best photo spot, we're off.

Rain isn't forecast – yet it's raining. And instead of clearing clouds, Pico is shrouded in thick fog, and the road along with it.

Schaahatz prefers to analyze the fog before his mind's eye, and I hope that there aren't a few cows wandering around on the road again.

After the disappointment with the cloud-covered mountain, we, or rather I, since Schaahatz is still stuck in intensive analysis, decide to take a look at the vineyards of Pico.

From Madalena, we drive east on the ER1 and in Santa Luzia turn left into the bushes, down Rua do Vinhos to the coast. We drive along vineyards – can you call them that – they're actually rectangular plots of land bordering the bizarre lava fields left behind by the 1718 eruption.

Facts:

Vineyards have been cultivated at the foot of the Pico volcano since the 15th century. The wine-growing region originally stretched for 40 km along the coast and up to 3 km inland. Near the sea, the vines are protected from salty winds blowing in from the sea by numerous rectangular or semicircular retaining walls made of dark lava rock.

A local bottle of wine starts at around €10 and can easily cost €30-60. So it's meant for enjoyment, not for getting drunk.

After a delicious coffee, we decide to begin our journey home and end this uneventful day with a delicious meal at the Bioma restaurant, right next to our house.

Bioma is managed by Rafael Ávila Melo, who comes from the island of Pico, and Franco Pinilla, who comes from Patagonia, Argentina.

Both have worked in restaurants that are among the 50 best in the world and have realized their dream here.

Facts:

Bioma is more than just a restaurant. It's a place to enjoy gastronomic experiences rooted in Azorean heritage. Here, fresh local produce blends seamlessly with sophisticated culinary techniques and traditional expertise. Here, the flavors and culture of the Azores are celebrated, with a commitment to tradition, innovation, and sustainability.

It was a true taste sensation.

The brioche rolls we're having for breakfast tomorrow are made according to Rafael's grandmother's recipe and taste delicious fresh. Freezing them leads to a significant loss of quality.

Today we tried to analyze the "star scum" (as Melzer likes to call such food) like Melzer does in Kitchen Impossible - but we failed miserably.

But everything was absolutely delicious.

Incidentally, we saw the two bulls walking past our terrace yesterday, the ones that might end up on our plates today.

At a

Let's wind down the day – we still have to pack.

It's time for us to move on and say goodbye. Just a quick chat over breakfast with Bernd and Christel,

who are slowly heading home today and a heartfelt thanks to Madame Grace and Rogerio, who have treated us well and warmly.

A memory photo with everyone and then off to the ferry.

Everything is going according to plan and smoothly. After a quick stop at the supermarket in Madalena, it is clear that we will be cooking for ourselves today in our new vacation apartment. We are still 45 minutes away from it. We drive the longest, straightest road in the Azores past Pico towards the east to Foros.

Facts:

The longitudinal EN3 is about 23 kilometers long, including 9 kilometers of straight stretch. It is even longer than the width of 4 islands of the archipelago.

The length of this straight road also corresponds exactly to the distance between Pico and the island of Faial. This road is in itself an attraction. It is considered one of the most beautiful roads in Portugal as it offers a wonderful view of Mount Pico. But it also leads to one of the most beautiful lakes on Pico: Lagoa do Capitão.

However, we are not visiting it today.

A beautifully located house

with an unobstructed view of the sea.

The house belongs to the restaurant of the same name, Bioma. It seems relatively new with its own pool.

It's also nice not to sleep in a hotel and not having to go out to eat.

Restaurant guests can watch us swim and look directly at our plates on the terrace. But that doesn't bother us with our delicious Macarao com alho e camarão (pasta with garlic and shrimp) - well, maybe a little.

By the way, we just paid €4 for 1/2 kg of fresh shrimp here. In the supermarket, you can't get frozen ones for under €23 a kilo.

Pico is the whale watching spot in the Azores. It's good that the restaurant doesn't open until 6:00 PM, so guests can't easily confuse us with the gentle mammals. 😂

PS: Anyone who prefers to live here without being observed should rent the house from Monday to Wednesday - the restaurant is closed then.

The weather invites us to have breakfast in the garden. When we arrived, we had scheduled the breakfast time for 8:40 AM (we had to do this because there is limited space in the breakfast room during bad weather - it doesn’t matter when the weather is nice, there are plenty of spots outside, but some guests don't adhere to the agreements and occupy the spots. That’s why we were asked if we would be willing to shift our time to 8:00 AM or 9:20 AM. We could choose spontaneously. And since we have a big heart for rule-breakers, we tried 8:00 AM, but failed miserably.

After yesterday's active day, today is again reserved for sightseeing. We still need to visit the western lighthouse, the cheese factory, and the last Piscina Natural in Velas.

We learned from Bernd and Christel (the couple we traveled with) that the tour is quite interesting, but you need to register in advance.

It fits perfectly that the cheese factory is on the way to the lighthouse. A quick pit stop to reserve the tour and a forced espresso, as it is currently raining small dogs.

We take the upper road and pass through small forests

to the Parque Florestal das Sete Fontes. A small, beautifully landscaped oasis in the middle of nowhere. A great place to linger.

After a mother duck with about 20 ducklings has cleared the path, we continue on a gravel road toward the lighthouse.

The lighthouse is closed and quite dilapidated, but from the viewpoint Vigia da Baleia you have a great overview.

Apparently, on a clear day you can see 4 of the 9 islands. Today, after a great calf and fascia training during the ascent,

we can only see 3 islands: Pico, Fajal, and Graciosa. Terceira is hiding behind a thick rain cloud that is moving rapidly towards us.

On São Jorge, a cheese with a very strong, pure, and spicy aroma is produced.

The longer it matures, the stronger the taste. After 12 months of maturation, it already has a bit of sharpness.

Before starting the tour, we must put on our protective clothing,

then we head to the production facility. Photography is strictly prohibited (that’s why the photos are from the internet)

Facts:

At the União de Cooperativas Agricolas de Lacticínios de São Jorge factory, 500 cheese wheels are produced daily. A 12 kg cheese wheel requires 120 liters of milk.

The milk comes only from the black-and-white Holstein-Friesian cows (German breed), as this milk has the right fat content, the right sweetness, and composition. The cheese contains only rennet and salt, which is mixed in by the workers manually in enormous troughs. I would say they don’t have ergonomic workplace consultations here.

And there is still room for improvement when it comes to occupational safety.

The cheeses must rest for 2 weeks after the press and during this time develop a wax layer.

One day one side, the next day the other side. Everything done by hand. Each woman waxes 1000 cheese wheels a day, which she must take from the shelf beforehand. And to reach the upper cheese wheels, they climb acrobatically on the shelves. The oldest employee, who was just climbing the shelf during the tour (one leg on one shelf, the other leg on the other shelf), is 69 years old. All this without a safety line or elevator or platform ladder.

There are 3 processes that are almost fully automated here: the pressing of the cheese wheels and the cutting into pieces. After cutting, each piece is manually weighed and everything that is in excess is trimmed. Only then is it packaged (automated).

After a proper cheese tasting (included in the €7 admission fee), buying cheese, cheese knives, and jam, as well as another espresso, we head towards the seawater pool. I would say it’s the most beautiful thing we’ve seen so far.

After a jump in the refreshing Atlantic, the sun comes just in time to warm you up again.

Today we have to pack our bags again, because tomorrow we are going to Pico.

Our landlady had recommended the restaurant right next door, A Quinta.

For us, it was a grab in the toilet. The water and beer were very liver-friendly warm. The shrimp in garlic were frozen shrimp. After being disappointed every time we've had meat, we decided on the catch of the day.

A red deep-sea fish with potatoes and salad. The salad was dry, completely without dressing, and in places already mushy. The fish was perfectly black grilled. Due to the intense grilling, the fish developed a strong borderline smell.

The waitress explained that Boca‑Negra naturally has a stronger smell.

Cooilot added:

“The fish belongs to the scorpion fish family. Its flesh is good, but raw it smells stronger than, for example, Cherne or Lírio.

With deep-sea fish that have a high collagen content (like Boca‑Negra), the smell doesn’t resemble the normal grilling smell, but can actually be barn-like. If it hasn’t been very fresh or if it’s been stored too warm, this smell intensifies massively.

This is no joke – chefs in the Azores know this problem.”

Our cook was apparently from outside🫣. Not a pleasant farewell.

We are headed to the main attraction in São Jorge - the hike to Fajã da Caldeira de Santo Cristo.

The actual trail starts up in the clouds and ends there as well.

But 19 km really has nothing to do with health, rather with torture and aching extremities. Therefore, we decide to hike only half the distance and skip the climbing.

The starting point is a 45-minute drive in Fajã dos Cubres.

Facts:

Fajã dos Cubres, whose name comes from the plant “cubres” = goldenrod (solidago sempervirens), has recently been included in the “7 Wonders of Portugal” in the category of sea villages.

This and the neighboring Fajã da Caldeira de Santo Cristo are among the most significant and beautiful detrital fajãs, coastal plains formed by landslides on São Jorge. Among the 74 fajãs of the island, they are the only ones with extensive lagoons separated from the sea by beach pebbles. The areas of Fajãs dos Cubres and da Caldeira de Santo Cristo, which are about 3 km apart, expanded due to the earthquakes of 1757 and 1980 and are now connected by a beautiful hiking trail.

And that’s exactly the path we’re taking today.

The access to the starting point is steep and winding, as is the case everywhere on the island. Recently, there must have been a rockslide here, as the remains are still clearly visible.

We begin at the parking lot in Fajã dos Cubres by putting on the right hiking gear. Then it’s uphill and down and up again, and so on.

The red path is the only access to the two Fajãs do Belo and da Caldeira de Santo Cristo. Everything here is transported with Quardt's - whether it’s luggage, cement sacks, or people. Only we have to walk. 😅

Passing by three waterfalls that could rival any still life. Not even a trickle or a puddle - nothing - total dryness. Yes, where we are, it’s hot and dry.

The two Fajãs do Belo and da Caldeira de Santo Cristo are really very remote; here, even the fox and hare don't say goodnight to each other, that would be too lonely for them. But a few people apparently enjoy this seclusion, as there are even accommodations with pools. Find yourself - why not.

After 8.4 km, we stumble back to the car, slightly sweaty.

A refreshing dip in a Natural Pool would be great right now. Just 13 km and a 27-minute drive separate us from the cool waters.

However, the Natural Pool doesn’t look very inviting; it looks more like a green algae soup.

Oh no, then we'd rather choose our hotel pool.

Totally worn out from the hike, I will now ]]>https://vakantio.de/en/blog/schahaatz-und-ich-muessen-wieder-an-die-frische-luft-viajamos-pelos-acores-e-levamos-te-connosco/voll-im-trendhttps://vakantio.de/en/blog/schahaatz-und-ich-muessen-wieder-an-die-frische-luft-viajamos-pelos-acores-e-levamos-te-connosco/voll-im-trendFri, 24 Jul 2026 20:09:00 GMT38.62639273097001-27.929306030273438https://vakantio.de/en/blog/siziliana/terceirahttps://vakantio.de/en/blog/siziliana/terceiraTue, 21 Jul 2026 06:11:00 GMT38.7216415-27.2205771The night was bearable even without air conditioning. Here on the island, it is somewhat cooler than on Terceira, and also a bit drier.

A delicious breakfast awaits us on the sun terrace.

After the lazy day yesterday, we want to explore a part of the island today. There are lighthouses at both the right and left ends of the island. Today's destination is Topo - a 45 km stretch from our hotel, with a driving time of 1 hour. Everything moves a bit slower here. And with the roads, which by the way are better than many country roads in good old Germany, 60 km/h feels like speeding. The roads are narrow here (most roads have walls or hydrangeas on either side), winding and hilly - everything we are not used to.

So, well-rested, we set off to explore the island's highlights. The weather is also nice, and we drive along a ridge road towards Topo. You can’t get enough of the nature and the coast.

One moment you are in sunshine, the next you find yourself in the clouds.

That is quite remarkable.

The waterfall Cascata do Cruzal - just before Topo - is said to be impressive. We park our little Opel Corsa in the designated parking lot and walk the 50 meters to the viewpoint. I would say it's not the Niagara Falls, but at least it has water, which we have experienced differently in many countries.

What is truly impressive is how much effort the locals put into such places. Always clean and almost new sanitary facilities, seating areas with barbecue facilities, and well-laid-out paths. And no matter how small the attraction is, it is always maintained and kept clean.

The lighthouse Farol da Ponta do Topo is unfortunately closed today (it is only open on Wednesdays).

While Shahat wants to photograph the typical vineyards in the Azores (similar to those in Tenerife), he speaks to the owner (the local mayor's husband). He tells him that he is American. He moved here with his parents at the age of three and stayed. He loves the tranquility here. His wife is a nurse and a local councilor in this region. She drives for an hour to work on this small island, respect for how one manages that.

Recently, they built a small barbecue house by the sea swimming pool, with a welcome sign in three languages. We continue to the Piscina Natural da Pontinha do Topo to check it out.

Here on the island, there are several of these seawater swimming pools - however, it is too cold for us to swim right now. But the view is marvelous.

After a short stay, we head to the only coffee plantation in the Azores. Serpentines lead us down to Fajã dos Vimes, where Café Nunes is located. The Nunes family grows some coffee behind their café - we haven’t seen the plants in person, but fellow travelers from our hotel have spotted the four little trees. The Arabica beans are offered in liquid form at Café Nunes by Manuel Casimiro in the village, but are not available as souvenirs. Thanks to the microclimate, there are two harvests a year.

The espresso was delicious.

Now we are tired. Let's grab something to eat and wind down the evening with a sangria.

The night is short, the flight leaves at 9:55 AM, meaning we need to leave the hotel by 8:00 AM at the latest. After a 20-minute drive and another 20 minutes for returning the car, we find ourselves in the check-in line at a really small airport and have to see that our flight is delayed.

With a 2-hour delay, we board the small propeller plane.

The guys and gals here at the airport are really quick, from arrival to departure in less than 30 minutes. Our flight attendant looks like Bastian Pastewka.

After a brief safety briefing, our 35-minute flight is already taking off.

There is no time for drinks and snacks.

The smell of peppermint tea is in the air, which we noticed as we left the plane.

Our hotel Quinta dos Misterios is just a minute's drive away, right by the runway.

An old house built over 300 years ago. Lovingly restored by the owner and furnished with charm and love. Right at the beginning, we get a house/museum tour.

Previously, where the communal living room is now, there was a stable with an adjacent animal-operated grain mill.

Wine was also produced here in the past, as evidenced by the equipment in another room. In the old kitchen, the only remnants of the old stove have been replaced by a newer model. Here, the hostess whirls around preparing breakfast.

A look into the huge garden reveals chickens that provide eggs for breakfast, rounding off the tour.

And I suspected as I had to climb the way-too-high steps for the first time, that we would definitely be staying at the very top and there is no elevator.

I should play the lottery - because my guess was exactly right. All rooms are on the first floor; only ours is on the second - yippee.

We are greeted with a room featuring a four-poster bed, the only balcony (if one can call 30 cm depth a balcony) and a 140 cm bedding bed,

 

with the best view of the Pico - the highest mountain of the Azores on the island of the same name.

No air conditioning, no minibar, no television. Away with the modern gadgets - back to shared evenings with games, singing, and entertainment. It's just too bad that the other guests didn't join us. We waited for hours in the living room, but no one came 😢. That's just how it is with tourists these days.

So where are we, actually? - On the island of São Jorge

Facts: São Jorge is 54 kilometers long and 6 kilometers wide. The island was first discovered by the Portuguese explorer Diogo de Silves in 1439. The island has around 9,000 inhabitants, and the charming town of Velas serves as the capital.

Today, aside from a midday nap, shopping, and eating, we aren't doing anything else. Many restaurants are closed on Mondays, so those that are open are quite busy, but we were lucky to get a spot at Tasca dos Sabores

still to get a spot. The food was delicious and priced normally like everywhere else.

We didn't know it at the beginning, but in the end, we hiked around the caldera for 21 km and 1100 meters of elevation gain along the crater rim in just about 7 hours. It was a challenging but magnificent experience.

No wonder the Azores are also called the Hawaii of the Atlantic.

To be continued.

Yesterday, we were supposed to visit the Algar do Carvão volcanic cave, but after getting soaked to the bone, we lost our enthusiasm. Therefore, it’s on the agenda for today along with a short 5 km hike. Originally, we wanted to do the 8 km hike, but it’s too warm for that.

But before we head towards Algar do Carvão, we’ll drive up to Monte Brasil. The crater opposite our hotel.

Facts: Monte Brasil was formed about 20,000 years ago by a volcanic eruption and is the largest tuff cone on the Azores. It has been classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

Since today is Sunday, the whole hill smells of delicious grilled food. There are tables, benches, and grills everywhere that the locals use to sit with their families. The smell of grilled food takes me back to my childhood – the memory of pork chops on Calla Radjada in the mid-70s.

We would love to snatch something from the grill. After taking a few photos and letting our gaze wander for a few minutes, we set off towards the lava cave.

Since the cave is currently only open from 14:00 to 17:00 due to ongoing construction at the new visitor center, we do the hike beforehand.

Unfortunately, we didn’t look at the map and simply followed the already known yellow/red markings, which resulted in us suddenly being on the 8 km hiking route. A lovely hiking trail. Thank goodness we hiked against the actual direction, so the challenging part of the route was out of the way first.

The first 5 km pass by in a flash, but the last kilometers drag on like an old chewing gum. My right foot hurts and those wretched natural steps, which are not standard, become a torture for me. While Shaahatz, my little elf, seemingly glides down the steps, I feel more like an elephant.

But eventually, we reach the cave, the Algar do Carvão.

Facts: The Algar do Carvão is a 90-meter deep volcanic chimney. It was formed about 3,200 years ago through several eruptions. The cave formed after the magma escaped from the vent and flowed back into the chamber. There are a total of 338 steps that connect the various balconies. At the foot of the 90-meter deep chimney lies a lake with crystal-clear water. The lake is mostly filled with rainwater, so its depth varies by season. It can reach up to 15 meters deep and have a diameter of 400 square meters. In years with little rain, the lake can be nearly dry.

Even more non-standard stairs 🤪. It's getting colder – good thing I grabbed my rain jacket. One more passage through a tunnel

and then it’s there - in all its beauty.

Breathtakingly beautiful, cold, and humid.

Eventually, we struggle our way back up the steps and drive to the Furnas do Enxofre -

an area with multiple vents of aggressive volcanic gases at different temperatures, some quite high (around 95º C at the surface and about 130º C half a meter deep).

We can manage the smaller, nicely laid out circular path, but then it’s off to cool down by the pool.

Darn it - today we still have to pack, because tomorrow we continue to the second island of São Jorge.

Today we want to start the hiking weeks with an easy tour. We decide on a 5 km long route along the coast. After breakfast and packing, we drive across the island to the starting point of the tour.

We modify the Komot tour slightly and follow the sign.

That means first going downhill. It's nice that it's cloudy today and no rain is forecast. Perfect for hiking. So as already mentioned, first downhill. One could have also driven down in a car, but anyone can do that. A bay with stones welcomes us at the end of the downhill stretch.

(Now we are back on the Komot route). We follow the red/yellow trail signs a bit uphill over makeshift steps and through dense bushes.

During the next kilometers, we are treated to great views and sweat-inducing sections - because when you go downhill, you inevitably have to go back up at some point.

A little small talk with a couple from Bavaria already reveals to us the restaurant for tonight. The Bavarians move on and Schaahatz climbs the rock outcrop.

Hey, the unpredicted rain has started. Although it has been drizzling a bit for a while, but that was refreshing. Now we have crossed the drizzle stage.

Now let's quickly put on the rain jacket so that the sweaty shirt doesn't get wet on the outside too 😂.

It is always claimed - in the Azores, the weather changes every 10 minutes - whoever makes that claim is lying. Our rain shower lasted an hour, sometimes more, sometimes less - but continuously.

According to Komot, the route is supposed to be simple; however, I found the sections over the lava gravel to be quite challenging. Although for the others who passed us, it looked rather light-footed. It must be due to my new heavy hiking boots that it looked different for me.

But it's better to be cautious than to have a twisted ankle or even grazes, because when I fall, I fall like a tree.

Eventually, we reach our car soaking wet. Looking back, the route was quite nice, but the rain really ruined it for us.

After drying off, we decide to take the left ring road towards the hotel. The route was beautiful. Everywhere there were huge blooming hydrangea hedges.

Spontaneously, we make a stop at a seawater pool (swimming pool) and jump into the waves.

After the stress of yesterday and a short night, we are taking it easy today. Let's pick up some water and stroll through the old town of Igreja da Misericordia, which is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The Apple weather app predicts a pleasant 22 degrees, but it definitely feels much warmer. We joked before the vacation that if we are in the Azores, we would get a summer of the century with temperatures close to 30 degrees. 😂

After shopping, we wander through the alleys, passing by the

Igreja do Santissimo Salvador da Sé, the largest church in the Azores.

At the harbor, the

Church of the Misericordia

A bit further up the hill is the

Santuário Nossa Senhora da Conceição

Back down a bit is the

MAH - Museu de Angra do Heroísmo

with the adjacent central city park of Jardim Duque da Terceira.

After a sweaty climb to Memória a D. Pedro IV, we were rewarded with a great view of Angra do Heroísmo.

Facts:

Angra do Heroísmo is the most architecturally beautiful city in the Azores. It impresses with elegant façades and colorful houses that climb the hill from the harbor at the picturesque bay (Angra).

Once, it was even the capital of Portugal. Today, about 12,500 people live here. The layout of the city is easy to comprehend. The streets are largely geometrically arranged. The checkerboard pattern dates back to its founding period. Some magnificent townhouses still remind us of past times.

The city is located at a natural harbor bay. This favored the exchange of goods, and thus the place quickly developed into an important trading center. Today, it is a welcome stop for circumnavigators.

In 1980, an earthquake with a magnitude of 8.5 destroyed large parts of the city.

Today, the city is being prepared for a street festival. Starting at 7:00 PM with live music - we are definitely going.

But now we first cool off in our hotel pool.

The streets are decorated, and people are pouring in from all directions, dressed in white, heading to where the drink stalls and the stage are. It strongly reminds of the Fleckenfete.

After a delicious meal

at the restaurant Tasca das Tias, we mingle with the crowd. With live music and a beer, we let the evening fade away.

PS: So much for moderate temperatures

How do you get some extra sightseeing time in a beautiful city?

What do you think? We tried it out to see how it works when you miss your flight. It actually worked, giving us 8 hours (if lucky, you might catch another flight on the same day). The great thing is you can pass security twice on the same day, walk through the duty-free shop twice, and realize for the second time that the prices are still overpriced.

And all of this for a bargain price. You absolutely must try this. While doing this, you can also find out if a 24-hour public transportation ticket is really valid for only 24 hours or perhaps longer. The answer is a clear no - the reading devices are merciless.

And you can test whether the airport is capable of managing to transport the luggage with the new flight.

We will keep you updated on this.

We spent the time sensibly with a cold dish by the river,

snacking a bit in the city, taking public transport, and shopping. It was too warm for us to walk around with all the gear. Backpacks always have the disadvantage of keeping your back quite damp - especially in warm temperatures combined with exertion and maybe 2 grams too much on the right little toe.

Filled with impressions and happiness, the plane takes off with us at 21:50, and perhaps with our luggage.

After a peaceful flight, we land just before midnight in Terceira. Schaahatz runs to the car rental station - I'm hoping for the luggage. Overjoyed that it actually came along, we head towards the rental cars in light drizzle.

Only 20 minutes separate us from our new bed. And 20 minutes can feel long in thick fog - very thick fog, I would say visibility of less than 20 meters.

On the normal road, that was not a problem; you could follow the white lines, but then we had to go through a construction site - all in a uniform gray - that was quite adventurous. But Schaahatz handled it very well and brought us safely to our destination.

The room and bed are quite large, even though there's only one blanket again. Just before 2:00, totally overtired, we now have to go on a mosquito hunt, and then finally peace will come. Good night 😴

Today is about sports. After a delicious breakfast, we head to the metro. We want to play disc golf today at the DiscGolfPark do Parque das Artes e Desporto in Amadora. It's a flat 9-basket course.

The park is a 50-minute public transport ride from the hotel, situated in the outskirts of Lisbon.

And because we are being so sporty today, we also get off the bus 3 stops early to increase our activity points. Yes, the course is flat, but getting there is still a bit strenuous and makes you sweat.

If you've ever been to the landfill in Kohlenfeld (or elsewhere), you know how high a garbage mountain can be.

This former garbage mountain now houses tennis and soccer fields, running paths with fitness equipment, a playground, and a lot of artworks.

And of course, the 9 baskets – along with plenty of thistles and prickly grass.

Today clouds are actually in the forecast, but the sun is blazing down from the sky and there is very little shade. The game isn't particularly spectacular.

No great distances, not many obstacles – the only opponent is the crosswind and the thistles you have to navigate because the disc always lands where it's not supposed to.

Around 1 PM we climb down from the hill and stop at a local restaurant. No tourists, just retirees, workers, and us. Communicating with the young waiter, whom I estimate to be in his mid-20s, was quite difficult. We speak hardly any Portuguese and he knows no language other than Portuguese.

My partner's dorade was great - my picanha (which is actually 3 cm thick slices of grilled beef tenderloin on a skewer – in my case, they were thinly sliced to 5 mm and briefly grilled) was a bit tough, and the knife was extremely dull. A really bad combination.

Full and exhausted, we make our way home to take a siesta.

There isn't much time left to explore Lisbon, as we are moving on tomorrow. But today, we're heading up to the viewpoint Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara,

to enjoy the beautiful view over the old town.

The way up is also sweaty since the funicular is no longer running, so we have to walk the 45 meters of elevation, and that is at 28 degrees.

The view was impressive, just like the church, which looks plain from the outside but is wow on the inside and a bit creepy too.

In some niches were figures and beside them lay slashed forearms where the tendons could be seen. In another were bones and a skull decoratedly arranged.

With the blessing of all the saints present in the church, we head to the water. I keep wanting to write sea, but it's actually a river. We settle into a riverside bar and try sangria – and it tastes different everywhere (I thought the one from the first evening at The Mop near our hotel was the best).

My partner has been wanting pasta for 2 days and today we make that happen. A small Italian restaurant in a side street, called “Limocello,” was chosen, as we did not want to eat close to our hotel again. Just like yesterday, during the France-Spain game, all the restaurants with TVs were packed. And again today during the England-Argentina game, the same picture. However, the Italian restaurant was empty.

The food was very delicious and all the waiters and cooks were very chatty. They also didn't have much to do. Our waiter came from Nepal two years ago, the table assigner had also been to Terceira (our next destination) and gave us a few tips.

One more group picture with a lady

and then we are ready for bed - tomorrow means early rising.

The day started (and ended) with light rain, but in between it was dry and sunny. The Douro is home to Portugal's most important wine region. Here, Port wine and various other delicious wines are produced.

It was a ride, just like yesterday in Porto, up and down, but today it was far less strenuous, as the Valley got to stretch its legs. On winding roads that provided new impressions at every turn. A bit like the Mosel, but larger. 😅 It was a lot of fun!

Today, Porto was on the menu. First, the only and thus last critique of this city: you can only find a few streets where you're not either going downhill or uphill. The result for the author was that either the knees hurt or there were distinctly audible breathing noises, some might say - puffing - was noticeable.

But enough complaining. This city offers unbelievably beautiful perspectives, no matter where you look. Whether around the Douro River or in the (old) town, every alley and every street brings surprises again and again. The external structure of some houses may seem questionable, but according to locals, many houses are top-notch restored and modernized inside. However, you cannot say the same about many streets; the popular cobblestones are a real Tesla killer (anyone who has ever ridden in a Tesla knows what I'm talking about).

So I strolled through narrow alleys, climbed down the hill and back up, up and down again, took the cable car, and let the city affect me. Porto, I like you immensely.

We quickly exited the city via the urban highway, heading northwest on small roads to Cabo da Roca. This is the westernmost point of the European mainland, standing 140m above the sea. The wind was really strong here, estimated at 5-6 Beaufort. Tourists in busloads - especially from China - can also be found here.

We continued north to Mafra, a small town with an impressive monumental building - the Palácio Nacional de Mafra. This is the largest palace and monastery complex in Portugal.

We then returned to Lisbon via small and winding roads, where the rush hour welcomed me warmly. It’s just as bad as in other big cities. Nevertheless, it was a relaxing driving day.