In any case, yesterday turned out to be a complete bed day. Until this morning – luckily, I feel well enough to embark on the journey to Cape Town.

The transfer to the airport will serve as our last game drive: first through the water, passing by zebras, kudus, warthogs, impalas, and elephants – and then we also surprisingly discover a group of wild dogs. Some of them are wearing GPS collars. These animals have become rare and are therefore observed and researched particularly intensively. A rather special last view in the Delta.

After about an hour, we reach the 'airport,' which would hardly be recognizable as such if small aircraft weren't taking off and landing several times a day. Due to the lack of roads, they are a quite normal part of the transportation system here.

Once again, we see the beautiful landscape of the Okavango Delta from above. Either we are flying lower today – or our eyes have been trained better by now: This time we spot elephants and buffaloes multiple times from the plane. 🤩

In Maun, the co-pilot personally guides us to the check-in, after which we are handed over to the next warm-hearted person. Even at security, the people here in Botswana have a smile for travelers.

Overall: If there's one thing besides the landscape and wildlife that will stay with me, it is the cheerful, warm, and polite way the people in Botswana treat us – and each other.

Good-bye, Botswana. ❤️

From my bed, I look out at the untouched nature. What kind of landscape are we actually in?

There is no single “the” landscape in the Okavango Delta. Even during the flight here, it was visible from above how watercourses wind through the plains and frequently branch out. In between, there are floodplains, grasslands, and small, elevated islands.

On the ground, the differences are even more pronounced. In front of our terrace lies a floodplain with tall grass, where even an elephant nearly disappears.

Elsewhere, seemingly endless open grassland. Moments later, the ground is dry and barren, with bushes and individual trees dominating the picture – and again, scattered palm trees. 🌾🌴

In between is a baobab, which stands out with its massive trunk and bare crown just because it's something special here.

And of course, this landscape is never just a backdrop. There’s always something to discover – sometimes just the evidence of who traveled here before us. Fresh lion spoor in the sand immediately lets our Delta boys know that a lioness cannot be far away.

By the way, there is not much left of the giraffe killed yesterday, as other guests reported during dinner. Its young one, which apparently kept returning to the dead mother, nearly fell victim to the lions but managed to escape. If it finds another group of giraffes, it has a good chance of surviving. 🙈

We had already spotted several of these “tower of giraffes” among the bushes and trees. 🦒🦒🦒 Once the giraffes start their journey together, it’s referred to as a journey of giraffes in English. Sometimes, English is simply more beautiful. 😉

Under a Makalani palm, we saw an elephant yesterday. It vigorously shakes the trunk until the fruits fall to the ground, and then collects its breakfast. 🐘🌴

Perhaps that’s exactly what is fascinating about the Okavango Delta: In a short time, not only does the landscape change completely. The animals we see also change – and the way they utilize this landscape.

And while I write this this morning, it's completely quiet outside.

Addendum: The Okavango seems to be reading along. Two elephants are currently strolling leisurely through the water past our tent. 🐘🐘

Game Drive is overrated. 😎

Although 'rooms' isn't entirely accurate: We are staying in large tents on stilts, accessed via elevated wooden walkways. There are nine such tent-rooms in total, and essentially everything takes place outside.

What I particularly like is that the lodge is in Botswanan hands, and a portion of the tourism revenue is reinvested back into the region – including early childhood education, support for mothers and newborns, and research and conservation projects.

Here, too, we have the opportunity for game drives. But already as we set off, we notice that this is different from Chobe. We encounter only a handful of other jeeps; our camp has a maximum of three in operation. This time, we are also accompanied by not only one guide but additionally a scout.

Both men are 'Delta Boys,' as they call themselves: born and raised here. They probably know not just each other inside out but also this landscape and its inhabitants. They recognize every animal sound, read tracks, and seem to know every bush in this seemingly endless area. They don't need GPS. All of it is in their heads – or, as they say: They are the GPS. 😉

Despite the trust we have gained in them, I feel tenser than during our previous safaris. The paths are less traveled, the impalas much shyer, and driving 'off-road' seems completely normal – although 'road' is a strong exaggeration. 😅

In between, we encounter research vehicles with crews monitoring the wildlife. Often, we almost get the impression that we're not participating in a tourist activity but getting a chance to accompany the rangers in their work.

Of course, we again come across various wild animals, though not nearly as densely as in Chobe. And when we see the lions that killed a giraffe last night, it's pretty clear what wilderness truly means.

I notice how tense I am, and the encroaching darkness doesn't exactly help my relaxation. Now we are looking for nocturnal animals. The phone must stay off so as not to disrupt the darkness.

When we finally reach the camp, I feel quite relieved. After dinner, we collapse into bed completely exhausted.

But: Wilderness is indeed wilderness at night. It rustles and cracks; something is moving around and on our tent, and when the alarm clock rings at 5:30 a.m., we feel only moderately rested. I also feel a cold coming on, with a runny nose and headache. Great. 🙄

A brief breakfast outside by the campfire – and then it's already time to go: Morning Drive.

Now the delta shows itself from a completely different side. Beautiful morning light, many giraffes and zebras, a large herd of buffalo – and of course, many, many photos. 📸

Afterwards, it gets unusually quiet: We are allowed to take a tour on the water. Traditionally, the boats, called mokoros, were made from hollowed-out logs. To avoid cutting down any more trees for this, the mokoros used here today are made from fiberglass.

And just before we head back after about four hours, a special moment awaits us: a leopard.

We get so close that my excitement eventually turns into a certain discomfort. Especially as he seems to be getting more animated. At some point, I ask to move on.

I'm quite the scaredy-cat. 😅

At lunch, George, another guide, joins us. He is significantly older than the others and seems to be a bit of the boss here. We get onto the topic of poaching.

“Where there are humans, there is poaching,” says George.

However, the government is taking very strict measures against it. There are specific rules about who can move in the delta when and with what weapon. Our mokoro tour's leading boat also had a large rifle on board – “just in case.”

Then George tells us something that makes us swallow hard: If he catches a poacher in the act here, he claims he is allowed to shoot him without any further investigations against him being initiated afterwards. The police would only come to remove the body from the area.

🫢

We can't judge if the legal situation is really that clear-cut. But the ease with which George talks about it clearly indicates how seriously poaching is taken here – and how distanced this world is from our own.

This afternoon, we have decided to take a break. No further safari, no scheduled program.

Just sitting in the tent, gazing at this incredible landscape, enjoying the silence, and reflecting a bit on what we have experienced in the past few days.

That is quite enough.

Although... I need to pause for a moment: Two waterbucks just ran right past our terrace. 🤩

Game Drive seems to be completely unnecessary. 😎

At the airport, we will be welcomed by Zudu, who will take us to the next accommodation in his Jeep.

The ride there is full of surprises, the reception is warm ☺️

Again, several jeeps arrived, but the first to come by randomly was the driver with whom we had traveled the day before. He warmly greeted us and invited us to get back into his vehicle.

For a moment, we feared that we might be experiencing the same tour again, just a few hours later. But right at the start, he took a different path than all the other drivers. Suddenly, we were alone and could quietly observe a group of giraffes up close.

We learned a lot about giraffes, saw a very old specimen in its likely final years of life, and passed by a hippopotamus that had been lying in the exact same position at the same spot since early morning.

It seemed to be one of the 'losers,' as our guide explained: a male animal that had lost the fight against a competitor the previous night, who was now allowed to surround himself with the group’s females. The trainee accompanying us today told us that veterinarians would examine the hippopotamus and remove it should it die there, considering potential diseases as a cause. Otherwise, nature would take its course – likely involving crocodiles and hyenas.

So it was a calm ride.

Until our jeep got stuck in the sand. 🙈

The day before, I had wondered if something like this could actually happen here. Now I knew.

There might have been something wrong with the differential gear. In any case, the vehicle only sank deeper into the sand with each attempt to free itself.

We were reliant on help and were quite relieved when other jeeps finally arrived. However, the first attempts to pull us out were unsuccessful. There was certainly a certain tension in the air – after all, we had just been on our way to see the lions. 🦁

Eventually, we were indeed freed. However, since our jeep could get stuck again at any moment, the driver who had pulled us out remained nearby just in case.

As a thank you, our guide wanted to show him where the lions were currently located.

They were on the hunt.

In the tall grass, they lay almost invisible, waiting. Meanwhile, a group of elephants with several babies was slowly approaching. We weren't quite sure if we actually wanted to witness an attack or not. Definitely not a successful one.

The elephants moved forward cautiously while the lions remained completely motionless in the grass.

And then it was time for our scheduled drink break. 😳

So we drove a few hundred meters further to the other side of the tall grass. There, we spotted a herd of antelopes. We actually got out, received drinks and snacks, and observed the antelopes – fully aware that just a few hundred meters away, several lions were lying in wait in the grass.

Just a safari break. 😉

Shortly after, we got back in and started our way back. However, we didn’t get far.

Because suddenly, the lions emerged from the grass.

One after another, they moved towards us. 😳

For our guides, it was probably less surprising than for us when they eventually veered off, walking between the jeeps and boats and further towards the antelope herd.

And at that very moment, we had to turn back.

So we don’t know how the story continued for the lions and antelopes.

Nevertheless, we were impressed.

And perhaps a little relieved as well. 🦁🦌

Although there are indeed many elephants here in Chobe and throughout Botswana, the Africa map is truly alarming: over the last 250 years, the habitat of elephants in Africa has been reduced by nearly 70 percent.

This also gives the ongoing destruction of vegetation, which often catches my eye, a different significance. There aren't simply "too many elephants." Rather, in some regions, a very high number of animals concentrate on a progressively limited and fragmented habitat. Moreover, climate change, with heat and longer dry periods, is making water and food scarcer. When there is less grass available, elephants increasingly rely on trees and shrubs.

The statement from our taxi driver, "Elephants destroy everything," suddenly appears in a different light. It also reflects a conflict between humans and animals that has even been given a name here: HEC – Human-Elephant Conflict.

During our drives on land and water, we also passed by strictly secured anti-poaching areas. For their own protection, the guide explains, entry and photography are forbidden there. The anti-poaching units must protect their locations, work methods, and likely also their identity or movements. Poaching remains a significant problem.

We read on the boards today that over the past 15 years, around 30,000 African elephants have been killed illegally each year for their ivory – an average of more than 82 per day. The international commercial ivory trade has been largely banned since 1989 by CITES, yet the illegal trade continues.

Thus, the initially quite simple image of the worthy-of-protection elephant becomes rather complex: climate change, diminishing and fragmented habitats, conflicts between humans and elephants, and poaching are interconnected.

Of course, much of this also applies to numerous other large and small species whose habitats are under pressure.

And while we sometimes feel that elephants are simply everywhere here in Chobe, the map shows how extraordinary this impression actually is. 🐘

Tomorrow, we leave Chobe and fly with a small plane to the Okavango Delta. The weather seems to want to be kind to me: I am a bit nervous and I don't really care for additional turbulence. I'm soooo excited 🤩

Immediately, the experiences from the morning come up. Some say that compared to the various other safaris they've taken, that was real ‘mass tourism’.

And yes: My impression of the morning's ‘drive game’ with 50 to 100 jeeps, radio contact, and the collective chase for the recently spotted lions was indeed similar.

As we quietly steer the boat to the spots where our guide suspects or has spotted animals, I ponder about it. Also about supply and demand. If we all want to go on safaris – some of us not just one – then we are ultimately creating the demand that is responded to with corresponding offers. Complaining about the many other tourists while sitting right among them is, at the very least, a small contradiction. 🤔

On the Chobe River, everything is calmer and slower. We have much more time to actually observe the animals, watch their movements, and perceive their behavior. We only continue once everyone has taken their shots – or can no longer handle the proximity of the crocodile. 🫣

And so some of the most beautiful films and photos are created.

Our local guide knows the wildlife impressively well and tells us that he has been in this profession for over ten years and still enjoys it. When we land again after the tour, he thanks us for supporting tourism in Botswana and thereby securing his livelihood.

The statement sticks with us.

Of course, he doesn't answer the question of how much tourism nature and animals can withstand. But he adds another perspective to it. All those boats, jeeps, and lodges indeed involve people and their jobs.

Perhaps the question isn’t whether tourism is good or bad. But rather how much of it a place can bear – and how we want to travel when we are part of it ourselves.

The gentleman who brings us dinner with a beaming smile last night tells us that often an owl flies under the high, open roof of the lodge in the evening. Apparently, the cats sometimes benefit from her catch.

We have already discovered two of them. One had just finished her dinner parallel to us – poor mouse. 🐭🤷‍♀️

One of the cats is missing the tip of an ear. My sympathy is immediately aroused: “Oh, poor thing…” – and already in my mind, I create notions of ‘abandonment’ and neglect.

Then we learn that she is actually the favorite cat of our waiter. And the missing ear tip? Not the result of a hard life, but rather the vet's mark that the cat has been spayed.

I am impressed – and feel a little shy about my hasty story of the neglected African cat. 🙈

Another lesson learned: Not everything that looks like neglect to us is actually neglect.

And while I’m writing this entry, we suddenly hear a noise and look up in search of the tornado.

But it’s just a rolling suitcase behind us. 😂

Africa changes us… 😉

1. First, the cars drive through the disinfection bath, while we walk through it on foot.
2. Health check: show vaccination card and have our temperature measured.
3. Passport control – now we are officially allowed to enter Botswana.
4. And finally, the soles of our shoes are disinfected: please dip once. 😄

As soon as we are in the country, we see the first elephants from the bus. 🐘

Our lodge is located right by the Chobe River – and the warning notice in the hotel room makes it clear that we have truly arrived in Africa: Large crocodiles like to lie on the riverbank, warthogs and elephants occasionally stop by the reception, and at night, hippos graze on the lawn in front of the rooms. Please use a flashlight and keep your distance. 😳

However, you don't even have to leave the room to see the first wildlife.

In the garden, warthogs, mongooses, and monkeys roam together across the lawn. A snake briefly adds some excitement – and while having coffee, a crocodile can be spotted lounging by the Chobe riverbank. ☕️🐊

And if you look far across the river, you can actually see a whole herd of elephants. 🐘🐘🐘

I think we are officially on safari now. 😍

We undertook several safaris and boat tours. One of my favorite animals here is the hippopotamus.

5:45 AM, without breakfast we get into the jeeps for Chobe National Park.

We are not the first ones. There’s quite a bit going on there.

At first, we see nothing, but then we do. And as a crowning highlight of our morning safari, we come across a group of four majestic lions. Wonderful!

As hungry as the lions, we dive into the breakfast buffet.

Rejuvenated and full of energy, souvenir shopping is on the agenda.

It has been successful.

In the afternoon, we continue on the water. We cruise on the Kwando, the border river between Namibia and Botswana.

In the Kwando lies Sedudu Island.

The disputes over the national affiliation of this island reached the International Court of Justice in The Hague in 1999.

Since the water between Namibia and the island is deeper than between Botswana and the island, the court decided that the island belongs to Botswana.

And that’s a good thing. Because Namibia wanted to sell the island to the Chinese for rice cultivation.

There’s a lot to see both on the riverbank and on the island. For example, an old dead buffalo.

This buffalo is now on the menu for other animals.

The system sustains itself, and everything finds its use.

After a particularly beautiful sunset, we rush back to the hotel.

Eat, shower, go to sleep.

At the viewpoint by the Makgadikgadi salt pan, we stop for a short photo opportunity. This salt pan consists of a 5-meter-thick crust of salt and sand.

We continue towards Kazangula, to the only quadripoint in the world: Namibia, Zambia, Botswana, and Zimbabwe.

Shortly after, we arrive at our accommodation in Kasane, the gateway to Chobe National Park, and have the afternoon at our leisure.

We explore the hotel grounds and look forward to the evening buffet with a chilled glass of white wine.

Upon entering the jeep this morning, I find a puppy and can't believe my eyes! I immediately fall in love!

Our driver had picked up the puppy from the road after nearly running it over.

I then get to be a dog mom for two hours. We name him Khwai, give him something to drink, and feed him dried springbok meat. He is very thirsty and hungry.

When we switch vehicles, Khwai then moves on with his new owner, and it's time to say goodbye.

After several hours of driving, we arrive in Gweta and take a small tour of the 2000-inhabitant town.

To conclude the day, there's still a sundowner excursion planned. We drive to a place where two huge, about 3000-year-old baobab trees stand. The fruit of this tree feels as if covered with short, soft fur.

Baobabs can live up to 4000 years. They have shallow roots, and when the roots can no longer support the tree, it simply breaks apart.

The sun sets, and we drive to the lodge.

The alarm clock rings at 4:45 AM. The next safari drive is coming up.

We need to leave early to see the animals before they retreat to the cooler shade in the midday heat.

It will be an exciting day filled with many new impressions.

In the evening we gather around the fire pit. The atmosphere is good.

Our destination is the Mokoro Station at the Okavango Delta.

Mokoros are boats that were traditionally made from tree trunks. Nowadays they are made from fiberglass (as cutting trees for boats is prohibited), which unfortunately makes them less stable. Therefore, one should avoid sudden movements.

There are three of us in one boat and our poler quietly propels us through the water.

One of the biggest threats to the delta is a rampant algae that has no natural predators. Attempts have been made to control it using a beetle, which initially worked. Unfortunately, they quickly became a tasty snack for other animals.

Thus, the algae must be removed from the delta by hand, dried, and burned.

Our poler tells us a lot about the plants and animals that live here.

It's a beautiful, peaceful journey.

After a short lunch break, we head to our Adventure Camp, where we are greeted with singing, wet towels, and a refreshing drink.

We will spend the night in tents without electricity and running water. There is a battery-operated light bulb. A new experience.

After a delicious meal in the restaurant tent, we embark on a night drive, from which we unfortunately return empty-handed later.

Then a cold shower in the shower hut and with the flashlight into the tent.

Good night!

After a short, very warm night with a running air conditioner, we set off on the 430 km long journey after an early breakfast.

We leave the Caprivi Strip (Namibia) heading south towards Maun (Botswana).

The exit from Namibia goes very smoothly, as we already completed the necessary form the night before: show the passport, get the stamp, done.

Upon entering Botswana, our body temperature is measured, and our health condition is inquired via a form.

We are in a hurry, taking our lunch snack on the bus because we must be on time for the scheduled helicopter flights over the Okavango Delta in Maun.

Quickly dropping off our luggage at the Thamalakane River Lodge, we then head to the airport.

While the first group already heads to the helicopters, we want to get some money. Unfortunately, my credit card is not working (which worries me), and I have to go to the currency exchange. Fortunately, I still have a few Euros in my pocket.

After quite a long wait, we are driven to the takeoff area.

Our pilot's name is Scott, and he skillfully flies us at an altitude of 120 m over the delta. It's quite thrilling, and at the takeoff, I initially don't look down - we have no doors!

The three-quarters of an hour pass by in the truest sense of the word in a flash.

The delta has very little water due to the low rainfall in the past. Still, it is very impressive.

Back at the lodge, we have dinner under the open sky and go to bed tired.

Through the bustling Maun we go onto the Transkalahari Highway towards Ghanzi… once again about 350 km. The road is very well developed this time and driving is not too exhausting. The good road conditions, the occasional donkeys, horses, cows, and goats by the roadside, along with good music and a relaxed view into the distance, make it easy to sometimes not take the speed limits too seriously. The Botswana police probably knows this too, as they positioned themselves in the “middle of nowhere” to catch us poor tourists speeding. 18 kilometers per hour too fast; well, that had to be accepted. Traffic legal insurance and discussions aren’t really an option here, and of course, we didn’t want to engage in that…:-). Well, it cost 30 euros. After some paperwork, the money was deducted by card… the network works here…

Our destination Ghanzi, the gateway to the Kalahari, was getting closer, and fortunately, the temperature dropped a bit, now only about 35 degrees. Ghanzi is located at nearly 1000 m above sea level. The region is also known for cattle farming - noticeable to us by the numerous cattle trucks and disinfection stations aimed at preventing the spread of foot-and-mouth disease.

The infrastructure was also getting better. Many copper mines along our route apparently provide the necessary capital.

Upon arriving at the lodge, we treated ourselves to some relaxation by the pool, also to process what we have experienced so far.

In the evening, a delicious birthday dinner and for the first time with a bottle of wine.

Upon arriving at the Thamalakane Lodge, we immediately wanted to book a trip into the delta. However, that proved to be not so easy. We could book helicopter flights for $250, which was a bit too expensive for us. So we had to do some research ourselves. Thank God we were able to book a day trip with canoe tour (Mokoro) online for Monday.

So, first to unwind… but that isn’t so easy with the heat (about 37 degrees) and just one fan in the room.

Nevertheless, after dinner, we happily and contentedly went to bed.

With great excitement, we set off on Monday. After being picked up by a jeep with five fellow passengers, we drove 1.5 hours on very sandy and especially bumpy roads to the canoe station. Thoroughly shaken, we directly switched to the Mokoros to explore the Okavango Delta with our guides. We glided gently through the water and were able to observe elephants, zebras, various antelopes, hippos, pelicans, African black storks, and more animals. After about 1 hour, we then walked in 40 degrees in the shade (without shade) through the steppe. That was more than enough. A short break with a snack and then it was already time to head back to the station.

The return trip with the jeep was, of course, just as exhausting. So it was time to rest again and after dinner, write the blog… Good night… the two friends in Africa!

Visa, customs, registration, and somewhat questionable disinfection measures to prevent the introduction of Mpox and African swine fever. The small office was quite crowded due to the motorcycle group...'Drivers only!' was the announcement. Since Christoph was the driver today, he had to take care of the formalities. Somehow everything turned out to be relatively relaxed. We make a good team and don't let ourselves be stressed...then finally everything was done, and we continued to Kasane. Busy activity in the city. Money exchanged, SIM card bought, and off to the lodge.

Unfortunately, the hotel was overbooked due to a flood a few days ago, and our rooms were no longer available. Somewhat annoyed, we discussed with the manager. We didn't want to make it too easy for her and simply book us into another lodge, especially since we had already booked excursions. Eventually, we agreed to relocate for one night, with the promise that we would receive a very nice room the next day...report to follow ;-)

For today, we were allowed to stay in a very nice suite at the partner hotel. So compensated, we embarked on our excursion on the Chobe River. On one side Namibia, on our side Botswana...wonderful wide landscapes with water buffalo, elephants, hippos, and crocodiles passed us by. We were totally relaxed and enjoyed the trip on our sofa.

Then big excitement!! A group of crocodiles attacked a water buffalo and consumed it in their rather archaic way...grabbing and violently twisting to access the flesh. Wow, seeing that live was very impressive and the highlight of the day.

Back at the hotel, we went to dinner. The menu included, among other things, crocodile tail. It seemed obvious to give it a try...eating and being eaten...

However, we were compensated by the unique lofts at the Chobe River Camp Gondwana Lodge. Large panoramic windows with a view of the savannah. Relaxed by the pool and had a nice dinner in a beautiful atmosphere in the evening. It felt good after all the intense impressions of the past few days.

The border crossing was an experience once again, even though this time we had a certificate from the municipality and even a translation with passport number, there was still drama...

Really fun 😡

The penultimate part of our journey is coming to an end. After arriving at the lodge, we handed over our car after over 2600 km.

I can say it now, we didn't have a flat tire, considering the roads, it's almost like a little miracle for me 👏👏👏

Before handing over the car, we attempted to withdraw money from the ATM, you always have to carry cash in these countries; for every little thing, they expect you to give tips...

Debit card didn't work for the first time, luckily we had another credit card with us! Otherwise, we would have been in trouble ☹️

In the afternoon, there was a water safari on the Chobe River, the further we penetrate into the central African mainland, the richer the wildlife becomes.

What about the 20,000 elephants Botswana wanted to gift to Germany!?

Tomorrow the final part of our Africa trip begins, we will be transferred to Zimbabwe.

Yesterday afternoon, there was the last safari in Namibia, fantastic images of huge herds of elephants moving to the river, very special moments being able to watch the gray giants. The second night in the tent was not as exciting as the first, you get used to everything, even to socks in bed 😩

We arrive at the jetty almost on time and can begin our boat tour through Chope National Park. From the boat, you can actually see the animal world in a completely different way and we are amazed by the many hippos and crocodiles - from small to huge - and we can watch a herd of elephants trotting to the Chobe, drinking there and then, surprisingly, crossing the Chobe together in a line to cross from Botswana to Namibia. When one of the young animals decides to turn back because the water is too deep for him, the mother gives him a huge scolding, energetic and goal-oriented, because then they all reach the other bank unharmed.

After the boat trip, we stroll through the street stalls, do some bargaining and then drive back to Namibia. At the border, everything goes surprisingly quickly. The Botswana border guard saw us at the market and we chatted briefly and were then processed pretty quickly.

We end the evening at the Chobe River Camp with a delicious buffet around the campfire.

Slightly tired, we head towards the border, aiming for the Okavango Delta! After leaving Namibia, in Botswana, we must first pass through a disinfection station before arriving at the border post to clarify the formalities. With filling out all the forms, we need 1 hour, then we are in Botswana - with the hint from the border officer that the trip to the Okavango Delta is not possible, it takes too long, so we decide to drive to Kasane and from there to the Chobe National Park.

Contrary to our previous travel plans, it is now clear that we will not be able to make the trip to the Okavango Delta or to the Victoria Falls. But the slight disappointment is compensated by the Chobe National Park, which completely exceeds all expectations. In addition to the sandy 4x4 necessary road, we see a variety of animals that we did not see in the same numbers and frequency in Etosha Park. Satisfied, well shaken, and full of impressions, we cross the border shortly before the evening closure and enjoy the refreshing shower in our house tent. Tomorrow we will then switch to the boat...

Ankommen in Botswana – Grenzübertritt mit Aussicht

Es gibt verschiedene Möglichkeiten, nach Botswana zu kommen – mit dem Flieger oder auf dem Landweg. Wir kamen von Sambia über den Grenzübergang Kazungula, fuhren von Livingstone über die neue Brücke direkt nach Kasane. Und was für ein Unterschied: Der Grenzübergang war im Vergleich zu dem in Katima Mulilo (wo wir von Namibia nach Sambia gefahren sind) angenehm klar organisiert. Keine Hektik, keine Unsicherheit – ein paar Formulare, ein paar freundliche Gesichter, und wir waren drin. Botswana empfing uns nicht mit Spektakel, sondern mit Ordnung, Offenheit und einem ganz eigenen, ruhigen Rhythmus.

Wer direkt fliegen möchte, hat auch dafür gute Optionen: Internationale Flughäfen gibt es in Maun, Kasane und Gaborone. Je nach Startpunkt gibt es gelegentlich Direktflüge, meistens läuft die Anreise jedoch über Johannesburg oder Windhoek.

Erste Eindrücke: Kasane & der Chobe Nationalpark

Kasane war unsere erste Station – ein kleiner Ort, der direkt an den Chobe River grenzt und gleichzeitig eines der Eingangstore zum gleichnamigen Nationalpark ist. Wir quartierten uns auf dem Campingplatz der Chobe Safari Lodge ein. Eine wirklich schöne Kombination aus Komfort und Nähe zur Natur: Obwohl wir im Dachzelt schliefen, konnten wir Pool, Restaurant und alle Annehmlichkeiten der Lodge nutzen.

Die Tage in Kasane waren geprägt von einer Mischung aus Vorfreude und Staunen. In den ersten Stunden füllten wir unsere Vorräte auf – es gibt mehrere gut sortierte Supermärkte –, gewöhnten uns ans langsame Tempo und atmeten das erste Mal wirklich durch.

Dann ging es los ab in den Chobe Nationalpark. Schon auf der ersten Pirschfahrt begegneten uns Herden von Elefanten, so dicht gedrängt, dass wir irgendwann aufhörten zu zählen. Vielleicht waren es hundert. Vielleicht mehr.

Der Park selbst ist angenehm zu fahren. Es gibt Hauptwege, die man auch ohne Allrad schafft, aber auch sandige Pisten, die etwas Erfahrung erfordern. Besonders beeindruckend fanden wir die langen Strecken entlang des Flusses, wo sich Vögel, Hippos, Krokodile und Antilopen tummeln – alles eingebettet in eine Landschaft, die im Licht der untergehenden Sonne fast unwirklich erscheint.

Von den Elefanten zur Leere – Makgadikgadi Pans

Nach ein paar Tagen voller Begegnungen, staubiger Reifen und Sonnenuntergänge am Fluss zog es uns weiter – Richtung Süden, in die endlose Leere der Makgadikgadi Pans. Die Landschaft dort wirkt fast wie ein anderes Universum. Wo eben noch Grün und Wasser war, liegen nun riesige weiße Flächen, unterbrochen nur von vereinzelten Grasinseln und vielleicht einem Baum in weiter Ferne.

„Makgadikgadi“ bedeutet übersetzt so viel wie „ausgedehntes, lebloses Land“ – und auch wenn das etwas dramatisch klingt, beschreibt es ziemlich genau, was wir dort erlebt haben. Diese Stille. Diese Weite. Diese Leere, die nicht abschreckt, sondern einlädt.

Tierisch gesehen war es eher ruhig, die berühmten Flamingos bekommt man nämlich nur in bestimmten Monaten zu Gesicht. Tipp am Rande: Ruft vorher bei der Lodge oder dem Park an – sie können euch sagen, ob die Flamingos gerade da sind oder nicht. Bei uns: leider Fehlanzeige. Und trotzdem – oder vielleicht gerade deswegen – war diese Etappe eine der intensivsten. Wir haben mitten auf der Salzpfanne gekocht, saßen am Feuer in völliger Einsamkeit. 

Ein Schatz, den wir nicht geplant hatten – Nxai Pan

Der nächste Stopp war eher zufällig gewählt, denn eigentlich hatten wir den Nxai Pan Nationalpark gar nicht so recht auf dem Schirm. Ein Umweg – dachten wir. Ein Geheimtipp – wurde es. Der Park liegt nördlich der Makgadikgadi Pans und ist landschaftlich ähnlich, aber zugleich wilder, ursprünglicher und vor allem: voller Überraschungen.

Schon die Anfahrt ließ erahnen, dass wir Botswana nun in seiner echten Form begegneten. Keine Zäune, keine privaten Lodges, kein abgesicherter Campingplatz. Die Campsites bestehen im Grunde nur aus einer kleinen Lichtung, einem ordentlich umzäunten Sanitärhäuschen – und dem Busch drumherum. Der Schlafplatz? Offen. Natur pur. Wie offen der Platz ist verraten tagsüber schon die Kot Haufen die dort liegen, nämlich massenhaft Elefantenkot.

Abends am Feuer leuchteten wir immer wieder um uns – vorsichtshalber. Und dann sahen wir sie: Augen im Dunkeln. Leuchtend. Still. Kein Laut. Nur das Knistern des Holzes. Es war der Moment, in dem wir merkten: Du bist hier nicht allein – und das ist genau der Punkt. In Botswana lernst du mit der Natur zu leben, mit dem Tageslicht und eben alles zu nehmen wie es gerade ist. Elefanten versperren die Hauptstraße? Na gut dann machen wir wohl eine Pause. Warzenschweine liegen vor der Dusche? Na ja dann halt später.

Ein besonderes Highlight waren die Baines Baobabs – eine Gruppe uralter, riesiger Affenbrotbäume, die mitten in der Pfanne stehen, wie Figuren aus einer anderen Zeit. Sie waren für uns wie ein Naturdenkmal, das einfach dort steht, ohne erklärt oder vermarktet zu werden. Einfach da. Und ehrfürchtig.

Das große Ziel: Okavango Delta & Moremi Game Reserve

Schließlich fuhren wir weiter Richtung Westen, dem Okavango Delta entgegen – dem Ziel, das uns von Anfang an am meisten gereizt hatte. In Maun, dem inoffiziellen Tor zum Delta, stoppten wir kurz, um unsere Vorräte ordentlich aufzustocken. Hier treffen moderne Supermärkte und Straßenverkäufer für Feuerholz aufeinander – und man kann sich nochmal richtig gut eindecken, bevor es tiefer in die Wildnis geht.

Kleiner Rat: Packt mehr ein, als ihr denkt zu brauchen. Je nach Saison begegnet ihr auf den Wegen stundenlang niemandem, und wenn ihr euch festfahrt oder eine Panne habt, ist Wasser, Essen und Zeit alles, was zählt.

Die Trockenzeit (Juni–Oktober) ist übrigens Hauptsaison – viele Tiere, wenig Wasser, aber dafür viele Touristen. In der Regenzeit (November–Mai) habt ihr Ruhe und sattes Grün, aber auch matschige Pisten und weniger Tierdichte. In der Hauptsaison solltet ihr Campsites unbedingt frühzeitig reservieren – in der Nebensaison könnt ihr entspannter reisen.

Fahrtechnisch ist Botswana hier kein Spaziergang mehr. Wer ins Moremi Game Reserve oder tief ins Delta will, sollte sein Auto kennen: Wann brauche ich 4WD? Wann 4WD low? Was ist Diff Lock? Und was passiert, wenn ich zu spät schalte? Wer keine Erfahrung hat, sollte sich vorher gut informieren oder Fahrtrainings machen – denn hier draußen ist kein Abschleppdienst in Reichweite. Mindestens ein Ersatzreifen ist Pflicht – besser zwei. Unverzichtbar ist außerdem ein kleines Gerät zum Luftablassen aus den Reifen, denn auf weichem Sand senkt ihr den Reifendruck, um nicht stecken zu bleiben. Genauso wichtig: ein mobiler Kompressor, um die Reifen danach wieder aufzupumpen. Lasst euch im Zweifel von eurer Autovermietung genau zeigen, wie das funktioniert, und nutzt die Gelegenheit, um Tipps für den Umgang mit dem Diff Lock zu bekommen – was ihr tun könnt, wenn er mal klemmt, passiert öfter, als man denkt. Und ganz ehrlich: Schaut euch vorher ein paar Videos an, wie man mit Allrad, Low Gear, High Gear & Co richtig umgeht – das kann euch unterwegs wirklich den Tag (oder die Achse) retten.

Einer der eindrucksvollsten Orte, die wir im Delta besucht haben, war das Third Bridge Campsite – ein wilder, abgelegener Campingplatz mitten im Moremi Game Reserve, nur über teils sehr abenteuerliche Tiefsandpisten und die berühmte, etwas in die Jahre gekommene Holzbrücke zu erreichen. Schon die Anfahrt ist ein Erlebnis, das einen auf das einstimmt, was einen dort erwartet: reine Wildnis, keine Zäune, keine Beleuchtung, keine Sicherheit im herkömmlichen Sinne – nur du, dein Zelt und das, was dich umgibt.

Die Campsite liegt direkt an einer Flussbiegung, und wenn du morgens die Zeltplane öffnest, kannst du mit etwas Glück schon die frischen Spuren eines Löwen oder einer Hyäne im Sand vor deinem Auto sehen. Uns begegneten hier Elefantenherden, die lautlos durch das Camp zogen, während wir frühstückten. In der Nacht hörten wir Hippos schnauben, Schakale jaulen und Löwen brüllen – nah genug, um das Herz ein bisschen schneller schlagen zu lassen, aber gerade weit genug entfernt, um im Zelt zu bleiben und zu staunen.

Das Okavango Delta selbst ist ein Tierparadies, wie es sonst kaum eines gibt. Durch das saisonale Hochwasser verwandeln sich große Teile der Landschaft in ein verzweigtes Mosaik aus Wasserarmen, Inseln, Lagunen und Sümpfen – ein idealer Lebensraum für unzählige Tierarten. Wir sahen hier Elefanten, Zebras, Kudus, Impalas, Giraffen, aber auch Wildhunde, Leoparden und mit etwas Geduld sogar Löwen. Für Vogelliebhaber ist das Delta ein Traum: Fischadler, Bienenfresser, Jacanas, Reiher, Löffler, Eisvögel – die Vielfalt ist atemberaubend.

Und das Erstaunlichste ist: Trotz dieser Fülle fühlt sich alles ruhig und entschleunigt an. Kein Lärm, keine Menschenmassen – manchmal fuhren wir stundenlang, ohne einem einzigen anderen Fahrzeug zu begegnen. Diese Stille, gepaart mit dem ständigen Bewusstsein, dass man hier wirklich nur Gast in einer uralten, wilden Welt ist, macht das Delta so besonders. Es ist schwer, das Gefühl in Worte zu fassen – vielleicht am besten so: Wenn du einmal hier warst, misst du jedes andere Naturerlebnis an diesem Ort.

Botswana schenkt dir keine Show. Aber es schenkt dir Momente, die unter die Haut gehen. Third Bridge war einer dieser Orte, die man nie vergisst – nicht weil etwas Spektakuläres passiert ist, sondern weil die Natur dort einfach sie selbst sein darf. Und du bist mittendrin.

Khwai – Die Krönung unserer Reise

Da wir in den ersten paar Nächten keinen Platz mehr im Moremi selbst bekommen hatten, schliefen wir in Khwai, außerhalb des Parks, aber landschaftlich ebenso spektakulär. Unsere Unterkunft: Khwai Hippo Pool Campsites. Und ich sage es selten, aber diesmal stimmt’s: Das war die beste Campsite, auf der wir je geschlafen haben.

Wir schliefen direkt am Fluss, sahen Hippos, hörten Elefanten nachts durch das Dickicht ziehen, und erlebten einen Sonnenaufgang, der fast schon zu kitschig für Worte war. Dazu eine Mokoro-Fahrt – ein traditionelles Einbaumboot, mit dem ein lokaler Guide euch lautlos durchs Delta stakt, vorbei an Seerosen, Libellen und einem Elefanten am Ufer.

Botswana – Mehr als ein Reiseziel

Botswana hat uns nicht einfach nur begeistert – es hat uns verändert. Es ist ein Land mit einem starken Rückgrat: wirtschaftlich stabil, politisch ruhig, sozial stolz. Die Menschen, denen wir begegnet sind, waren offen, freundlich und hilfsbereit – nie aufdringlich, aber immer herzlich.

Botswana lässt dich sein – aber es verlangt auch, dass du mit Respekt reist. Dass du zuhörst statt zu drängeln, dass du langsam fährst statt schnell zu urteilen. Wer bereit ist, sich auf diese Reise einzulassen, wird mehr als Tiere und Landschaften sehen. Er wird Ruhe finden, und sich selbst vielleicht ein Stück mehr begegnen.

💬 Du planst deine eigene Botswana-Reise oder hast Fragen zu Routen, Camping, Fahrzeug oder Saison? Schreib uns – wir teilen gern unsere Erfahrungen!