As announced the evening before, a different tour guide was supposed to accompany us to the airport today and assist us with check-in. Disappointment in the morning at 4:15 AM, we pick up the tour guide somewhere in the city and he speaks neither German nor English. Okay, we can manage on our own. It wasn't difficult at the small airport in Luxor.

6:30 AM Flight MS66 to Cairo Gate 09 took off at around 6:40 AM

7:35 AM Landing in Cairo

Now in Cairo, the guide from the first day, Mr. Walid, was supposed to meet us and guide us from the domestic terminal to the international terminal. He apparently didn't feel like getting up early. So we had to follow the signs instead. Exit form filled out, passed through security, and eventually arrived at the gate. Anyone familiar with Frankfurt am Main knows how to get through anywhere.

Departure at 11:10 AM

Landing at 1:57 PM

We are back home. It was a great trip. However, there were also a few points that did not correspond to the tour operator's description. We are still in contact with them about this. More details once everything is settled at this point.

Unpacking luggage, doing laundry, all the things that come after a trip, as the next trip is already approaching.

I'm still practicing with this blog. It doesn't always turn out as I want it to.

I've also decided to forgo many photos in the post. If anyone wants to see more, please check the gallery in each blog post. I think this way it's clearer, right? 

Why we stayed overnight in Edfu remains a mystery to me. There was nothing to see at night and we were nestled between several ships. Now we also got to hear the loud noise of the ventilation systems in full volume. Sleeping was hardly on our minds. How did the guests on the other side of the ship put up with this for the last few nights?

At 08:00, we set off again and head to the lock at Esna, which we reach at 11:15. Now we have to wait because only 4 ships can be processed per lock cycle, and several are idling in the waiting area. A lock cycle also takes about 30 minutes.

At 13:30, we finally approach the lock.

And at 14:30, we are finally allowed to go through the lock.

We enjoy the afternoon with coffee and cake on the sun deck.

At 18:30, we're right in the middle of it again. We visit the Luxor Temple. Compared to the Karnak Temple, it's a smaller temple, but very impressive in the evening.

Especially the Avenue of Sphinxes, which connects the Luxor Temple to the Karnak Temple.

Following this, we took our additionally booked excursion for a carriage ride through Luxor. The horses were slightly better cared for, but it wasn't really recommended. The drivers were more in competition with each other, and I often found myself under the wheels in the traffic of Luxor. At least with our driver, we had the luck to receive some information about buildings in sight.

Now back to the ship. Last dinner, last brandy at the bar, packing the suitcases. Tomorrow we're going home.

Today we are starting at 08:00 AM. It's unusual for us to be able to sleep in this long. The felucca is already waiting next to our river cruise ship for the trip to Kitchener Island with its botanical garden.

From the botanical garden, there is also a view of the mausoleum of Aga Khan.

At 10:00 AM, we start the onward journey from Kitchener Island by motorboat.

We travel through the nature reserve and past Nubian villages.

And the house of Mohamed Manouir, a very well-known Nubian singer according to our tour guide.

This time, it was not us who were late, but another travel group. With an hour's delay, we leave Aswan at 24:30.

Our next stop is scheduled for 18:00 in Kom Ombo. Here, the travel group that boarded in Aswan will take their excursion while we relax on the ship.

At 19:30, we are supposed to continue to Edfu where we will dock overnight. However, we actually set off at 19:50. As always, with a few delays. No wonder the ship has so many dents.

Just before midnight, we reach Edfu. Now it's time for bed.

Today we're traveling from Aswan to Abu Simbel by bus. We had already booked this excursion in advance for €149 with our trip reservation. 

The alarm goes off at 03:45 AM. Yes, I’m not mistaken; getting up in the middle of the night for breakfast. Of course, there wasn't much to eat at this hour. As usual, Nescafé or tea and a dry cake. Regardless, anything in the stomach is what matters. Additionally, each of us received a breakfast package with 1 bottle of water, 1 juice box, 1 bag of chips, 1 banana, 1 apple, 1 croissant, 1 pastry, and 2 sandwiches. At least we won’t starve on the ride. 

Departure was at 04:30 AM, as we needed to be at the checkpoint for the desert trip by 05:00 AM. 

After about 1 1/2 hours of travel, we made a stop. Restroom break. It was about time because today we really had a very cramped bus. Everyone was groaning. Even I, at 160cm tall, was already at my limit. 

Now about 110 km to go until the destination. 

Upon arriving in Abu Simbel, we go through the visitor center directly to the temple. Information about the temples and about 1 1/2 hours of free time to explore. 

At 10:30 AM, we head back to Aswan. There was also a restroom break here at 12:00 PM, 200 km before reaching the destination. 

Back on the ship, there’s lunch, and then the discontent arises. The housekeeping had no time for our cabins today. There was a passenger change with the Spanish guests. So much for the 5-star ship. 

The rest of the day was at leisure. Dinner at 8 PM and a look at tomorrow’s program. It looks like a relaxing day ahead.

Since we arrived at Aswan around midnight and our cabin was facing the street, we were able to sleep quite peacefully, as we learned from other travelers at breakfast. There were voices and car horns, but it was nothing compared to the other side of the ship. Here, a fresh air blower kept the guests from sleeping. 

After breakfast, we will set off at 07:15. The first destination is the unfinished obelisk. 

After that, we took a boat to the Philae Temple, also known as the Temple of Isis. The temple used to be on the now submerged island of Philae. The dam construction has indeed changed quite a bit. 

We return to the ship, and if it weren't for our additional booked excursion, we would have the entire afternoon free. But we start our city tour around 15:30. Our first stop is the Old Cataract Hotel. Agatha Christie stayed on the terrace of this hotel, and this is where my dream originated. Now, after all these years, I could catch a glimpse of it again. 

Across from it is the Cathedral of Aswan 

And from the public garden of the Old Cataract, one could see the island of Elephantine. 

Now we visit the El Tabia Mosque. Our tour guide explained a lot about the religion, the prayer proceedings, and patiently answered our questions in the interior. 

Spices are always a recurring topic, and we visit a spice shop on this excursion. We receive information in good German about the origin and use of the spices. 

The journey continues, and near the bazaar street, we get off and walk through the bazaar street towards the train station of Aswan and arrive at the coffee house. Despite the announcement, nothing was prepared for us. Thus, quickly many men were summoned from somewhere, tables and chairs were brought out onto the street, and off we went with ordering. What is astonishing is that somehow everyone always gets what they wanted😃. 

Now back to the ship, dinner, good night drink at the bar, and off to bed. Tomorrow we will get up really early. 

Arrival in Edfu around 05:30 AM. 

A little more time to relax and doze off, but then we’re on the move again. Breakfast at 06:30 AM, and at 07:30 AM we set off through 4 ships. Once outside, we take a carriage to the Edfu Temple, also known as the Temple of Horus. The carriage ride would have been very beautiful in theory, if the owners would take care of their animals. Here in Edfu, it is mandatory that you can only drive to the temple with the carriage from the ship. At least that’s what the tour guide says. 

Both animals and people arrive safely, and we can visit the temple 

The return journey is again by carriage. Surprisingly, in all this commotion, everyone actually has the same carriage again. Off to the ship, because at 10:30 AM we leave and continue to Kom Ombo. 

Today we have a relaxed lunch and some free time before we reach Kom Ombo around 05:15 PM. 

Punctually at 05:30 PM we start our excursion. Yes, the temple is actually right by the docking station. In the evening twilight and illuminated, it’s a dream.

Next, we pay a visit to the small crocodile museum. Mummified crocodiles are also interesting to see.

We all return independently to the ship. At 08:00 PM we continue, and we reach Aswan around midnight.

After the stressful day before, today was really pleasant. 

At 10:45, we reach the Valley of the Kings. From the main entrance, we take a golf cart to the tombs. Unlike before, only 3 tombs are open each day. Unfortunately, the most famous one is not open today. There may be some waiting lines. After an introduction by our tour guide, we have time until 12:35. Then we continue our journey. 

Now by bus to the other side of the mountain. The Temple of Hatshepsut is our next destination. 

The conclusion of this very strenuous day are the Memnon Colossi. 

We drive back to the ship. Unfortunately, our group is not staying on schedule more and more often. 

Upon arrival at the ship, we quickly go for lunch and finally, our Nile cruise begins. 

We enjoy the afternoon on deck

Before dinner, some snacks and a welcome cocktail.

And here is our plan for tomorrow. 

We decide not to go to bed so early. We have been waiting at the lock for ages. A good choice, as we rumble through the lock of Edna at midnight. 

The head of the HR department had raved to me about the Mediterranean beaches and the name Alexandria had such an aura for me that I used my first long weekend to go to the North Coast. I had read in my Marco Polo travel guide that women at the beaches couldn't just go into the water in swimwear and asked my colleagues, and they confirmed this for public beaches, saying it was different in the Sahel region. I looked on Booking and Hostelworld and found something affordable, and it turned out to be a very nice large room with a balcony, kitchenette, everything clean. Just the ventilation in the bathroom is best left untouched, or rather not used at all. It does the exact opposite; it spreads quite a stink.

On Google Maps, I saw the bigger road and thought, well, they don't have a private beach. I can also walk a bit. I had read about a beach for women called La Femme, a good 4 km away, and looked it up on Google Maps, and set off cheerfully at noon with some nuts, chips, a delicious yogurt-orange juice mixture in a thermos coffee cup, tomatoes, feta salad with Italian herbs that I had actually found yesterday.

I was glad that I crossed the 8-lane road fairly easily, and then there was the wall – a very long wall... I walked along it for about 4 km and found Gates Marina 5, and at 6 I asked if I could walk to the beach from here. No, explained the security person who spoke English, it is a private village. So that exists too. I explained I wanted to go to La Femme beach. That one is closed since the season is already over. If I walk past Gate 7 and then turn right, there is a public beach. I thought better than nothing and continued walking. In the morning it had been quite cloudy, and it had even rained a bit heavier in the morning and it was clearing up. And indeed, there was a sign that also said beach in English. I considered leaving my pants on. There was also a sign for North Mall. A shopping mall where they must have the local swimwear; I’ll go there. My thoughts continued that I actually don't want to wear something like that and came up with the idea of buying a wetsuit. Shorties probably show too much leg. The full-body suit presumably covers enough.

The walk was exhausting, I got honked at a lot, and it increased more on the last stretch. So, I reached the mall and hardly any shops were open, friendly signs saying: see you soon next year 2026. There was always free Wi-Fi from Orange. I also saw a beach that was the most beautiful turquoise. I thought I would strengthen myself before; there were two restaurants, it felt like a bad movie or comedy. I ordered some kind of flatbread with halloumi and tabbouleh. Soon the waiter returns, saying the flatbreads are out. He recommends pizza in broken English; I asked him to check again, he asks again, and I say I need some time. He walks away. After a while, he comes back, and I attempt to order falafel; they are out. I ask if the side is also unavailable. Only the falafel is out. All right then, just beans please and a Caesar salad.

After a while he comes back and says the Caesar salad is out, would I like fries. No, I don't want fries. I ask about the tabbouleh and beans; the tabbouleh is out. What? I can have the Caesar salad with fries. I don’t want fries and ask if the Caesar salad is okay. Yes. Aha

After a while, someone from inside comes out and says I ordered a green salad with fries. I say no, I didn’t order fries or a green salad. I had that yesterday at a restaurant about 5 km away. Anyway, Caesar is out. "You change" and I say no, I’m leaving. I’ve been here for 30 minutes trying to order food. He says okay. I still use the toilet and don’t even ask if I should pay for the water I started drinking.

Alright, the beach unfortunately belongs to a luxury hotel. I even inquired there to purchase a day pass; it was already 4 PM and it costs 100 USD. WOW, I truly didn’t expect that. I found the 1000 EGP for La Femme beach rather steep; that’s 17€. In the evening at my accommodation, I researched beaches; I even asked my landlord via WhatsApp and in a FB group. There was also a suggestion, but unfortunately, it was 40km away. To put the price into context, I paid 720 EGP for an Uber ride yesterday for 2 hours and about 140 km. My bed in the women's dorm in Cairo costs 300. I then read about a local guide who wrote that it breaks Egyptian families' hearts when they go to the beach with their families and then have to pay 1000 EGP per person. I also feel uneasy about that, but if the beach is open tomorrow morning, I’ll probably do it; yet, it definitely won’t be my favorite vacation spot.

Also because as a woman here I really am not treated respectfully. The return trip was even more exhausting; I was followed, called after, honked at, and a motorcyclist drove closely beside me, stopped in front of me. I made a detour, had forgotten him after a few minutes when he rode up from behind and grabbed me hard on the butt. He probably didn’t understand the word asshole I yelled at him. That was about 20 meters in front of the large supermarket/hypermarket where I had shopped yesterday. And I stick to the clothing tips; I was wearing loose, long fabric pants and a t-shirt. If that happens more often, I will leave the country. This other situation is exhausting; it goes too far.

I didn’t end up at the beach this weekend in Alexandria; I preferred to look around the city a bit and thought the beach would come in 2 days. I didn’t want to try how men would react to me at this beach alone as a woman. The other beach that was recommended to me was unfortunately 40km away, and Uber is comparatively expensive in this region; it would have cost me over 30€ in total.

I probably wouldn’t have gotten an Uber or car anyway. At least, none could be found for half an hour when I had to go to the bus, which then let me ride from a minibus in front of the hypermarket. Knowing the Uber prices helped in bargaining. I had very little time.

I did go to the pool in long travel pants and a t-shirt and managed to enjoy it. I need to research better and hope it’s easier to get to the beach at the Red Sea.

The accommodation was very nice and very relaxing; I had long Qigong sessions and enjoyed it very much. That did me a lot of good.

At 9:30 am we reach the excavation site and oldest pyramid in Saqqara.

After a thorough tour, the journey continues by bus to Memphis, the ancient capital.

Now we're heading back to Cairo and will meet the rest of the two groups at a papyrus shop. From here on, we'll resume our joint program. These papyrus shops are a must-see on any trip to Egypt. The production process is explained, and, of course, as is typical at sales events, purchases are encouraged.

We explored the Coptic Quarter on foot, followed by a break in a coffee house.

As we learned the previous day, our afternoon flights to Luxor were rebooked for the evening. We departed with a slight delay at 7:45 pm and landed at 8:32 pm.

We reached our ship at 10 p.m. The tour guide had informed us the day before, upon request, that we would be sailing on the Nile Admiral. An older but beautiful ship with very good food. Last renovated about 20 years ago. He repeatedly emphasized that anyone wanting a 5-star ship would have to pay significantly more. I had a very uneasy feeling. According to the brochure, we had booked a 5-star ship. My feeling was confirmed. The first impression from the outside...

More stress! First, a quick dinner, then back to the cabin. All meals were buffet style. The food was perfectly fine. The cabin...🙈. Photos later. Off to bed, the alarm rings at 6:00 AM.

On the way back to the room, we took a few quick photos. 

Quickly getting ready and heading down to the bus. Our tour guide, Mr. Ghazy, greets us here. We are Group 1 and are lucky that Mr. Ghazy is accompanying us throughout the entire trip. In contrast to Mr. Walid and the tour guide of Group 2, Mr. Kamal, he speaks very, very good German. 

On the bus, and we are off to the Pyramids. 

08:00 AM, we reach a viewpoint and have this fantastic view of the Pyramids of Giza in the morning mist.

Here we have a short break for photos before heading to the Pyramids by bus. At 09:00 AM, we pass through the entrance control of the tourist center. Mr. Ghazy provides detailed information about the Pyramids and tips on what to look at during our free time. Since I had already been to the Pyramids on an earlier trip, I limit myself to the exterior inspection. 

Now we are heading to the Sphinx by bus. There is now a tourist center here as well. We arrive there punctually at 10:00 AM. Again, there is detailed information and free time. Unfortunately, everything is now cordoned off, so unlike before, it is no longer possible to take such good photos. 

Our next destination is the Egyptian Museum. We reach it shortly after 11:00 AM. Since the New Egyptian Museum is set to open in November 2025, many interesting objects were missing in the old museum. The rest was very dusty. Despite everything, there was still something to see. 

After an adequate amount of free time, we went for a delayed lunch or rather an early dinner 😃. We reach the restaurant at 15:00 PM. Here we were greeted with music. There was again a buffet. The selection was top-notch. The taste was great too. 

The suitcase is packed. We will be picked up at 11 AM and taken to the airport.

On time at 12:25 PM, 3 hours before departure, the check-in counter opens. However, the employee was completely out of place. 

1. According to him, there were no more aisle seats available. However, other passengers checking in after us got some.
2. He wanted to check our luggage directly to Luxor. No, we want to go to Luxor later as can be seen from the booking.
3. Other guests already received their boarding passes for the Cairo - Luxor flight in 2 days. Let's see what happens with the luggage.

With a departure at 15:25, it did not work out. The plane was not yet ready. My companion is passing the time with a Hugo.

Shortly after, however, we finally took off. 

Boarding was chaotically Egyptian. Seats in the second-to-last row were claimed by Egyptair employees. As a woman, despite asking, there was no help with the hand luggage from the male staff. Nothing has changed in all these years 🤣. 

Takeoff at 16:10. The delay was minimal.

After 1.5 hours of flying, there was a surprise.  On Egyptair, there is actually a hot meal on a 4-hour flight. Selections were chicken and beef. 

Due to the tight space and turbulence, no photo of the warm meal.

The immigration card was given directly after dinner. My classic photo above the clouds was somewhat sacrificed due to the middle seat and dirty windows.

Despite the delayed departure, we landed quite punctually in Cairo. Local time is 8:40 PM. Very bumpy landing, the captain probably needs a bit more practice. 

The tour guide from Trendtours welcomed us immediately upon entering the airport building and provided us with the necessary visa sticker in the passport. Then we went through passport control and to the baggage claim. We had to wait until everyone had their luggage. Someone had to go to the restroom and others needed to buy a SIM card. The room number was to be written on the luggage tag. Unfortunately, one traveler was always missing, and others were not listening to the tour guide. Consequently, everything took longer. 

It is now 9:20 PM. Now we are sitting on the bus. First, we are going to a restaurant for dinner. Travel time about 45 minutes. 

As is customary in Egypt, the ride took a bit longer. We reached the Queens Cleopatra Restaurant at 10:30 PM. Here a buffet awaits us. Drinks are to be paid for by ourselves. To be honest, at this time and after a dinner on the plane, one doesn't really need anything more, right? I limit myself to something from the dessert section.

Suddenly, it had to go quickly again, although some guests were still not finished. Back into the bus and off to the hotel. On the way, there was information from the tour guide Mr. Walid about the itinerary, the tour guide on the round trip, additional excursions, and especially about the tips that need to be paid the next day. 

Visa 28€ per person 

Tip 65€ per person 

Optional excursions 

Excursions in Cairo 40€ per person 

Aswan city tour 25€

Luxor carriage 20€

Especially the matter of the tip will need to be clarified with the tour operator. The brochure stated 3€ per day/person and it was voluntary. 

We reach the hotel at 11:45 PM. The Swiss Inn makes a good impression. Check-in went very quickly. First a nightcap at the bar and then off to bed. The alarm clock rings at 06:00 AM. Departure at 07:00 AM.

Here, my dream was born

One day, I will also take a Nile cruise and read Agatha Christie's novel 'Death on the Nile'. I've watched the various film adaptations many times, but I've never read the book.

In late 2024, I booked a trip through the tour operator Trendtours. First Cairo and then off to Luxor and onto the river cruise ship. Trendtours is rather tight-lipped about the hotel and ship information, but on my trip to Jordan in 2022, everything was actually perfect except for a few minor details. Gradually, I will unravel the mystery regarding the accommodations in this travel diary.

I have packed my suitcase, and tomorrow I will depart from Frankfurt am Main for 2 nights in Cairo. Once again to the pyramids and the Sphinx.

Anticipation 😍

We have 5 vacation days left and feel that we need to get out again. It’s not enough for long trips, but definitely enough for a week in Egypt.

Since we're quite last minute, the options—especially for flights—are pretty limited, and our main criterion (snorkeling opportunities directly from the beach) isn't met everywhere. In the end, we choose Makadi Bay, about 45 minutes away from Hurghada airport.

In Makadi Bay, there is a pretty large number of hotels, ours is rather average in many respects. However, over time, we discover 3 rewarding snorkeling areas. The longest section is on the north side of the bay, where it's still a half an hour walk to get there. It only takes half as long to reach the section in front of Fort Arabesque, and you can see something even at 'our' hotel beach deep in the bay, although the water here—especially in the afternoon—is a bit murkier. The south side of the bay would probably also offer something, but here we have to pay extra for (the necessary) dock access—we have (a) nothing with us and (b) are not willing to do so—so it remains uncharted territory for us.

During the day, we do nothing but snorkel, alternating between the three accessible sections in changing order. Even here, there are signs of destruction at the reef, but by no means as pronounced as at the Great Barrier Reef or in the Maldives. There is a great variety of fish. From previous visits to the Red Sea, we are already accustomed to the fact that they tend to be smaller than elsewhere, but this time there are also some outliers that are surprisingly large. And, as always—even though you’re snorkeling the same route for the umpteenth time, there is always something new to see—it certainly doesn’t get boring for us.

After 6 days in the water and warmth, we head back to the—at the moment—wet, cool, gray Germany.

I have been asked a few times whether my employers provide one for me. No, they are also not helpful in finding one. Presumably because, as my German colleague said, they have no experience in finding a shared room.

I already feel at home in the hostel. It is very small and straightforward, I think there are only two dormitories. In the women's dorm, there are four beds.

Everything is super clean, and I really appreciate that. The street noise is still substantial, the air conditioning works great, and fortunately, I can set it to 26°.

I usually enjoy the vibe of being among other travelers in hostels, and especially since I don't know anyone much in Cairo yet, that does me good.

Overall, it's very quiet except for the fans at the reception area where there is no air conditioning. There are two sofas and a small table where we are also served breakfast.

We are on the 7th floor, and there is an elevator, which I enjoy using; I walk down.

The nearest subway station is about a minute's walk away, and there are many small shops and bakeries where you can drink juice.

I am looking for a room in a shared apartment in the neighborhood where my job is, Maadi, through a Facebook group. I have an appointment for coffee on Sunday since my potential roommate also works in the same area. Apparently, a friend is still there, and the apartment is quite messy, so I can only take a look at it from the 7th or 8th. The room will be free from the 15th; there is air conditioning, and if I remember correctly, also a garden.

She also wants to show me around the neighborhood since she has lived there for four years. I am very curious because I would, of course, find it great to have only a short walk to work. It is really very green and nice there, and that café by the Nile that I visited yesterday has, for me, quite reasonable prices. Even though I initially think that in such an establishment, I might just drink something.

The prices vary a lot, and if I have a nice terrace or garden, I am happy to pay more. My idea is also to not live alone upon arrival, of course only with a woman, as I like to feel comfortable in the apartment, especially in light clothing with the temperatures. I think air conditioning is essential so that I can sleep well.

The flight and stay at the airport had some curiosities in store. First, there was the notice the evening before that all passengers should check in online, as there would be irregularities. This was then also announced at the airport, it didn't work properly since it was an external provider. This resulted in people at check-in having printed lists where they searched for their names and filled out the boarding pass by hand. I had never experienced that; I think my first flight was in 1990.

Then it took longer for us to take off, with the explanation being that there was too much air traffic over the European Union. We took off about an hour and a half later.

At the airport, I was able to fill out the visa application and easily found the counter for it. There was quite a line, and I got a bit nervous since I had booked a ride through booking.com, and it said the driver would wait only 45 minutes. I was hopeful, since I had given my flight number, that they could check. He had waited for me but greeted me rather unfriendly, saying he had waited two hours for me and held up the paper with the arrival time. Interestingly, I had received an SMS that definitely did not confirm this early arrival; I was surprised how quickly and efficiently the processing went.

I had read that Egyptians are relaxed and was expecting something like in Ecuador, friendly smiling people leisurely stamping passports and making small talk. Not at all, it was hurry hurry hurry.

I was a bit annoyed that everything took quite a long time; I should have sorted my visa on site better. But then I still had to wait a little for my luggage and was very happy when it finally appeared on the conveyor belt.

My father is said to be a fast driver, at least among my friends in the past; they would have been afraid. But even he did not prepare me for this taxi ride. You could overtake from the right and from the left, and I was surprised how this minibus could accelerate. When we arrived, the driver said here was my hostel. I wanted to know which building, but interestingly he didn’t know that. He said a minute, drove into a side street, asked people, and asked me at least three times what the name of the hostel was where I booked this ride, which he definitely had the same expression available as I did.

I then showed him a screenshot from Google Maps with the address of the hostel; there was also a phone number. He called, but still didn’t become much wiser. Eventually, I discovered the name on the side of the street.

After that, it got significantly better. The staff at the hostel are super nice, and my roommate in the women’s dorm is too. There are only four beds in there; I'll share more in the next post.

Phew.

Finally on the airplane.

F i n a l l y  o u t !

No no, it’s not that bad... yet I must honestly say:

The further we get away from this country, the freer I feel right now.

'Breathe in, HOLD it' is gradually back to 'Breathe in, Breathe out'.

No idea when I've ever been happy that a vacation is ending. I guess I’ll say NEVER.

And yes, maybe this statement is a bit exaggerated, but if you stick with me, you might understand my/our misery.....

There were definitely a few trips in the meantime that I never put 'on paper,' as you know. And hey, I really thought I might never write again, but I don’t want to withhold this experience from you.

Chapter 1 - the idea

I no longer remember when the desire to fly here became more present. When the idea turned into a real flight booking. And the thought of the pyramids brought hours of research on YouTube and booking.com.

The fact is, we were so curious and hyped. Also just because this culture was completely new to us. And everything we planned to see there already left me speechless long before we even stood in front of it.

Egypt - Land of the Pharaohs

Well. And stomach issues.

Luckily, we were spared the latter. It might also be because we were meticulous about what and where we ate.

Honestly, none of us probably consumed more than 250 calories of solid food daily... we covered the rest of our needs with beer. Worked out perfectly.

I wanted, I searched, I booked.

And what can I say? We were not disappointed. On the contrary.

The evening of our arrival will probably stay in our memory forever (... or Babe?)

This city.

20 million inhabitants.

And both of us right in the midst of it.

On this crazy terrace with a view of the pyramids, which were so close.

The climate.

The first beer.

The apartment itself.

My girlfriend in a flowy top. (😝)

Everything was quite nice.

The subsequent nighttime excursion into our new hood for a while was quite short. I must admit we weren’t entirely comfortable with the area.

So quickly to bed.

Full of anticipation for the coming day.

There are theories that claim they were built as early as 10,000 BC.

And did you know there are actually people who seriously want to convince us that humans built them?

H u m a n s.

Yeah, sure!

Have you seen what huge 'pieces' they’re made of?

How perfectly everything fits together? Hey, I mean:

2 pyramids directly in a line, the third a bit off, just like in the Orion constellation.

And all of this 10,000 or yes, if you prefer, even 5000 years ago.

Then this granite blocks from Aswan were carted in. That’s almost 1000 kilometers away from Giza.

Google told me: just 1 (!) of those fat blocks weighs easily 40 to 80 tons. Just casually bring in hundreds of them? Without a crane? Without a digger? Completely without machines? Everything so incredibly precise? Never could have humans done this!!

At least not alone! 👽

But: either way - seeing these monuments up close, we couldn’t wait and set off the next morning with a tuk-tuk on a huge adventure. And hey, those streets alone. Well. Perhaps they were more pathways.

Rocky, dusty sand paths.

No recognizable road traffic regulations.

Honking, loud motors, and already 35 degrees in the shade.

My heart was definitely beating louder as we got closer to our destination. And it nearly leapt out when we stood right in front of them. It was honestly just awe-inspiring. And no photo, no video can ever convey it quite the same. I don’t know how to describe it. It was just unbelievable.

Walking there, being able to touch all of this, having that ancient history right in front of you... that was next level!

And then we were suddenly even inside.

IN A PYRAMID.

Everything very tight, everything steep.

This narrow staircase, always higher, further up.

Standing upright? Ha Ha!

(I would like to politely and urgently advise anyone with claustrophobia against visiting at this point!)

Humidity beyond good and evil. And at the end, we suddenly found ourselves in a chamber, in the middle this fat block that looks like a stone bathtub. Besides that, there was really nothing to see.

Not a single pesky hieroglyph. Less spectacular than we had hoped, but still just wow!

We were really there.

No idea, we didn’t know that beforehand.

I mean, we are Germans.

Where was the sign anyway? 😝

Chapter 4 - between desert and fridge magnet

Well, there were many camels there. And their 'owners' who were just itching to get us to take a ride in the desert. But you know, we like these animals... and that’s why we didn’t want to ride them, but rather 'just' sit on them for a picture.

Just for this photo.

For an expensive price.

And yeah, it worked out.

So back to a tuk-tuk and off to the apartment.

Well.

First, we went to a souvenir shop.

Probably the 7th cousin of the driver.

To show us his hospitality, he really wanted to take us to this store.

Arguing was pointless.

And um.

Moreover.

We wanted to have these 5 magnets anyway...

Chapter 5 - cultural shock

We thought we’d head to the Nile. Just to the water. Chill a bit. See something different.

And yes, 'see something different'.

This wish was fulfilled to such an extent.

The tuk-tuk driver spoke no English, but he asked a random guy where we wanted to go and promised to take us to a taxi station because no taxis run in this area and vehicles like ours can’t get there.

We quickly noticed that we were going in circles. We looked at each other questioningly. But said nothing. Then he wanted Nadin to come up front to drive the thing herself.

She didn’t want to at first. But I already mentioned earlier that arguing here was sometimes pointless. And it looked somewhat fun. After a while, she came back to the back. The same fun for me.

F u n.

Well. One felt pressured. The space was probably enough for 2.

And yet he was practically sitting in my lap. And instead of letting go of the handle and the gas, which honestly wasn’t rocket science, the old creep lightly touched and stroked my fingers. I told him I wanted to go back. He only reluctantly agreed to that request. Back with Nadin, she told me what I hadn’t noticed before.......Ugh. This guy. 🤮

We just wanted to get away!

And since there was no taxi stand in sight anyway, and we were already riding a merry-go-round with him, we urged him to stop.

'MONEY MONEY.'

I held out the agreed 200. He pointed to us one by one.

Kept driving.

'MONEY!!'

Ah, the jerk wanted to charge us double.

All of a sudden, his entire demeanor changed.

The mood shifted.

Especially since I started to argue and didn’t understand why I should pay him twice.

Quick glance at my girlfriend... her face spoke volumes.

Well, how about 400 then. 🤬

He stopped, hailed a taxi for us, and made a deal with the driver to take us to the Nile.

And I, the fool, almost wanted to get in when Nadin said

'That’s not a taxi.'

And indeed. Why did I assume it was one before? It was just any vehicle.

What did he want? 

Do they know each other? 

'Work' together? 

No no, that was not for us. 

We walked away.

Followed by loud voices.

'COME. COME. TAXI TAXI.'

We walked a bit and felt like we were in the next nightmare.

No idea what kind of neighborhood that was. But there were no tourists here. Especially no women.

It was loud. Stinky. People everywhere. They all stared at us and didn’t hold back with comments. Children with their hands outstretched.

“Money. Madam. Money.”

Sheep and goats were being slaughtered or bleeding out in the open street. Next to them, their living four-legged buddies who probably already knew they would be next.

And that smell… ugh!

Blood, trash, spices, all at once.

It was cramped.

You could hardly walk, especially not side by side.

Everything was so dirty.

The honking everywhere.

You could only squeeze through incredibly slowly.

It was almost unbearable.

I’m usually someone who enjoys going with the flow, honestly.

Strange cultures? Bring it on!

I’m not a coward, honestly.

I’ve been to many countries and seen poverty there.

But THIS was so, so uncomfortable. And yes, frightening.

We didn’t know which direction we should go. There were no taxis. We were scared to get back in a tuk-tuk. We were lost. That’s how it felt. I don’t know how long we walked, the strange and genuinely slightly threatening places we passed by. And honestly: that really stuck in our memory.

I remember how relieved we were when we finally got back to the apartment.

With a huge fright and a slight trauma.

And for everyone who might say we shouldn't exaggerate, I’d like to politely invite you to experience this charming experience for yourself. 😆

We were excited about temples and archaeological sites.

And we got that too!

And even if I emphasized at the beginning how glad I was to leave - against another pool session with my love, I wouldn’t mind now.

How was that again, Nadin?!

'Beer, sun, pool, and my baby'

(in exactly THIS order (🖕)

It’s basically an ancient cemetery of the pharaohs, a huge archaeological site.

Nadin had previously told me that she once wanted to become an archaeologist.

And babe, that idea of you sitting there with a tiny brush in the sand, squinting your eyes, and excitedly calling 'I found something!'... 😍

And folks:

We even saw a mummy that day.

So real!

And not just any mummy.

But the world star of mummies, namely TUTANKHAMUN! He’s been chilling there for over 3000 years.

Now very well air-conditioned in a glass box, so he doesn’t fall apart.

And everything we missed at the pyramids, we had here in abundance.

Deep grooves carved into the rock,

brightly painted walls,

hieroglyphs and decorations everywhere,

sarcophagus chambers with sarcophagi.

One can hardly grasp the impressions one has there.

So much history, so much work, so much mystique.

It’s just totally crazy when you consider that all of this was created thousands of years ago, and is still so well preserved today...

but there are also men everywhere who want money for every 'Hello Madame'.

They show you where a staircase is and expect something for it.

They suddenly give you a 'tour' without you knowing how it happened.

They already have their hands out because you looked them in the eye.

You feel like Al Bundy in the intro of the series.

You go to the bathroom, and suddenly there’s a woman next to the sink turning on the faucet with one hand and asking for money with the other.

It's just incredibly uncomfortable.

Annoying.

Brazen.

And yes, Egypt is not just poverty, scams, and intrusiveness.

But unfortunately, THAT casts a huge shadow over everything that’s actually so great.

And that’s exactly why Egypt won’t see us a second time.

Because as magical as the aura may be when wandering through ancient halls...

Pyramids, temples, tombs, and all that stuff looks....

you sadly can’t let it sink in.

Because you’re constantly busy saying NO.

Because you hardly do anything else than avoid sellers or self-proclaimed guides.

The next day was reserved for the Karnak Temple and that was even more impressive.

Even if it was hard to top everything before.

A bit like a stone forest it appeared to me.

Many obelisks, statues & over 100 massive columns everywhere.

(And behind each of these columns stood an Egyptian with an open hand and a toothless smile)

-We haven’t either.

This nature, everywhere green.

Many birds and foreign sounds.

Feet in the river,

warm skin,

red sky,

hibiscus tea,

Aspirin Complex & YOU.

And YOU or SHE is the main reason why we won’t fly back to a Muslim country again quickly.

We are not just friends, we are a couple.

And yes, we knew what to expect.

We didn’t just head into the unknown ... and we’ll always adapt and respect foreign cultures,

but it was a tough boundary experience for me, to be honest.

In Germany and everywhere else it’s almost automatic for me to take Nadin’s hand, put my arm around her shoulder, or kiss her whenever I want.

In Egypt, we were careful not to stand too close together or even sat apart at meals, for example.

We felt like we were in a long-distance relationship these last few days.

Can it get worse? - Yes.

Did I just lie? - Yes.

There’s really nothing worse. 😜

I don’t need to make out wildly in public..., we don’t usually do that in Berlin either.

But having to avoid each other like this... N o !

For us, as expected, it won’t be the favorite country.

But it was still really awesome. We saw so many things that our little amoeba brain has to process first.

Moments we will definitely never forget.

You must be insane!

Thank you, Babe.

I’m always ready for new adventures with you.

And I’m glad to use your REAL name again and not always have to call you NADIN. 😝😝

O V E R   &  O U T.

the journey began on January 6

We anchored in front of the Suez Canal overnight. At 6:30 a.m. we entered the canal and are now at the head of a convoy of 19 ships.

Contrary to popular belief, there was already a waterway from the Mediterranean Sea to the Red Sea in ancient Egypt. The so-called Bubastis Canal (also known as the Ismailia Canal) led from the Nile Delta via Wadi Tumilat and Lake Timsah to the Red Sea. It is believed that Pharaoh Necho II (610 to 595 BC) commissioned the construction of the canal, but did not live to see its completion. It probably took place under the Persian king Darius I (521 to 486 BC). The canal later silted up and was renewed by the Ptolemies (ca. 300 to 30 BC).

Suez, at the entrance to the Red Sea Canal, is a large city with around 750,000 inhabitants. The city stretches west from the canal to the mountains. The western side of the canal is mostly green, the eastern side mostly sandy desert.

Along the canal there are walls, observation posts, power lines, monuments and lots of construction activity. There is also a large commemorative plaque at the site of the freighter "Ever Given" that ran aground last year.

A second canal was also built in certain sections to increase capacity. It's always funny to see a huge ship behind a sand dune. The Egyptian towns on the canal make a more prosperous impression than in Jordan.

In addition to a few motor ferries and rowing boat ferries, there is also a bridge over the canal, the Egyptian-Japanese Friendship Bridge. Although it was inaugurated in 2001, it was never put into operation.

After a good 10 hour drive we drove into the Mediterranean Sea at Port Said without any problems.

Right next door, connected by a passage (which unfortunately is no longer open, because this way they can sell 2 tickets instead of 1...), is the Ibn Tulun Mosque, one of the oldest mosques in Egypt. A beautiful mixture of plaster and woodwork. I like the minaret, which is a bit unusual, with a spiral staircase on the outside. The view over Cairo is very nice. To go up, the door must be opened - as always, for a small tip to the guard.

It's very hot and humid today, so after these two visits we already need a break. We walk through the Quarter, where I was on my first day in Cairo, along El Moez Street. It looks completely different from two weeks ago, now almost all shops are closed and there is no traffic. It's not only the second day of Ramadan, but also Friday, our Sunday - nothing will open before 1pm. We go to the El Fishawy at the Khan el Khalili market, one of the oldest cafes in Egypt. It's a bit hidden, but hidden from the sun. The falafel sandwich and the fresh hibiscus tea taste excellent. But it's quite deserted, only tourists are sitting here. Since it's Ramadan, it's not really worth visiting a cafe for Muslims...

None of us is in a shopping mood, so to my relief, we skip the hustle and bustle of the market. Even now, when it's not very busy, the small market streets are still quite crowded with people. Imagine what it must be like when there is normal hustle and bustle here!

After resting and packing at the hotel, we are invited to break the fast with a family on our last evening.

That was one of the most beautiful experiences: the father of the family is also a tour guide at Intrepid and is currently on a tour. His wife raises their four children: two sets of twins! OMG! The older twins, two girls, speak excellent English and very casually. They are happy about the visit. The food is excellent, especially delicious are the Egyptian Sarma, whose real name I unfortunately forgot. The preparation takes over 2 days, it's really a feast!

So far I find Ramadan in Egypt very exciting. I can understand the reasoning behind it, it's a time that everyone goes through together, whether male or female, rich or poor. Everyone has to face their desires and overcome them. The joy and relief when breaking the fast is palpable. There are fairy lights everywhere in and outside the houses, it's a festive time. After breaking the fast, the children release firecrackers, there is a cheerful atmosphere. I'm curious to see what it will be like in Jordan.

That was our last evening in Cairo - tomorrow we're off to Jordan.

But there is still a lot to see in Cairo. We don't have much time for sightseeing today, even though we arrived in Cairo at 10am. It's the first day of Ramadan and the attractions close earlier. Plus, no one wants to work if they don't have to. That means it's also harder to find bus drivers or guides for the sights. The group splits up: some visit the pyramids of Saqqara and Memphis. Others visit the new Egyptian Museum (GEM), which was supposed to open in 2020 - and still hasn't opened. But you can already visit it, although many exhibits are not yet on display. It is now scheduled to open in mid/late 2023 (inshallah...).

I want to go to the Coptic Quarter of Cairo alone. First, Hoda drops me off at the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization (NMEC). A very nice collection with some extraordinary exhibits. Among other things, the royal mummies can be seen there. I am also interested in the textile exhibition, although you can skip the 2nd floor. I can't stay there for more than 2 hours, otherwise I won't have enough time for the Coptic Quarter. By the way, you should stay away from the cafeteria at the NMEC. I managed to take a bite and a sip, but then I had to run away from the so-called 'food'. And that in a Civilization Museum!

I take an Uber and quickly notice that barricades have been set up around the entire Coptic Quarter and there is much more police presence than anywhere else. The reality is that the Copts are repeatedly targeted in attacks. All the attractions inside the quarter are guarded and you have to go through security checks. But these checks seem to be just as useful as anywhere else in Egypt. It seems to be more about creating a sense of security and control than actually being secure. But I'm not thinking too much about that now.

The atmosphere in the quarter is very nice, although it is occasionally interrupted by groups marching through the narrow streets. I visit St. George's Church, the Hanging Church, the Sergios and Bakchos Church, and St. Barbara's Church. It may sound like a lot of churches, but they are relatively small. I particularly like the Sergios and Bakchos Church, the oldest church in the Coptic Quarter. My visit to St. Barbara's Church was also exceptional, as I entered just as the church service began. Enveloped in incense, I listen to the singing of the priest (or whatever he is called in the Coptic Church). It creates a mystical atmosphere, and fortunately, he has a beautiful, velvety and bright voice. I like the singing, it is a mixture of Arabic music with Christian motifs. There seems to be a kind of cantor who introduces the congregation to the church service. The Lord's Prayer is clearly recognizable: even if I don't understand a word, the ritual is the same.

After some wandering around the quarter, it is high time for me to return. This time, I take the metro, which is the fastest way. It works perfectly, it's clean and safe. There is also a car specifically for women.

I lose my orientation at Tahrir Square, until I finally make it back to the hotel, practically walking in a circle. Well, it's also a historic place, so it can't hurt.

At 7pm, we leave to get something to eat. The streets are deserted, at least for Cairo standards: the iftar (breaking of the fast) started shortly after 6pm and everyone who can has returned home. Almost eerie. But a few hours later, the usual honking of cars is back.

Apparently, many obelisks were cut from quarries in southern Egypt and then shipped to their destination on the Nile. The transport was not easy, some obelisks never reached their destination. Who knows what else we could find in the Nile!

The unfinished obelisk symbolizes something that no one wants to experience or would rather forget: failure. The quarry looks sad to me, I don't want to stay here for too long. If you want to visit the obelisk, it's better to wear sneakers, sandals are not a good idea on the slippery granite stones.

We continue to the Aswan Dam. Lots of security and military presence, nothing can go wrong here, otherwise all of Egypt will be flooded with the dammed water. But I don't find it particularly exciting. The project itself is, but there are no explanations, just seeing a dam. Hoda, who is usually easily impressed, seems indifferent to the structure. "It's a dam, guys," is all she has to say about it. That's okay too, it gives me time to enjoy my Turkish coffee.

In the afternoon, we take a felucca to a Nubian village. The village is located on one of the Nile islands, and in the evening we are invited to have dinner with a Nubian family.

A very leisurely ride, the wind is very weak. Eventually, like almost all other feluccas, we have to be towed by a motor-powered boat. We arrive at the Nubian village shortly after sunset. I'm a bit startled by how rudimentary it is. There are no paved roads, the ground is made of sand or soil, there are a multitude of cats running around that I definitely don't want near me. The older houses are built of mud bricks and are in very poor condition. The head of the Nubian family we are invited to explains that this is due to climate change. It never rains in Aswan, but in the past two years there has been much more rain. The traditional construction with mud bricks is not suitable for this, and the bricks began to disintegrate. The houses are at risk of collapse. Now everyone is building with bricks. And because they want air conditioning, the traditional methods of construction will probably disappear more and more.

The Nubians have their own language and culture. Depending on which village they come from, they may not understand each other. Since the language has no writing, there is only an oral tradition. But there is a common language for all of us: food. What is served to us is simple but excellent. The women of the house cooked it, it is the best food I have had on the trip so far.

I manage to get some recipes from the hostess. In any case, the 'secret ingredient' is quickly identified: fresh garlic. Raw amounts of it. No wonder I liked the food so much!