A view like this – just about 1.5 km from the city center.

TOP 10 ACTIVITIES

1. A boat trip on the Brda

Visiting Bydgoszcz and not experiencing the city from the water is like visiting Paris without seeing the Eiffel Tower. The city thrives along the Brda and is continuously developing its waterfront promenades, allowing visitors to enjoy unique impressions.

There are numerous options available – from rowboats and small excursion boats to floating restaurants and houseboats. Kayaks can also be rented.

2. The Islands of Mills (Wyspa Młyńska)

The revitalized Islands of Mills is now the heart of Bydgoszcz. When no major events are taking place, it is the ideal spot for relaxing, sunbathing on the lawns, or reading a book. A minting house existed here as early as the 16th century, powered by the Młynówka canal. Since the island is surrounded on one side by the Brda and on the other by the Młynówka, it rightfully carries its name.

Smaller boats dock here next to the Rother Mills. The island also houses several buildings from the district museum and a nearby marina.

3. The emerging Museum of the History of Bydgoszcz

The Museum of the History of Bydgoszcz is a young initiative of the city's largest museum institution – the Leon Wyczółkowski District Museum. In the historic granaries, which are considered city landmarks and can be found on numerous logos and souvenirs, exhibitions about the city's history and ethnography are being developed.

4. History and modernity at the Rother Mills

The grain mills on the Islands of Mills were built in the mid-19th century. Recently, the entire complex underwent extensive modernization and was transformed into a modern meeting and exhibition center.

Today, visitors can explore, among other things, the permanent exhibition “Węzły” (“Nodes”) about the history of the Bydgoszcz water network and the exhibition “Młyńska Maszyna” (“The Mill Machine”), an interactive science center explaining how the historical grain mills worked. A viewing terrace is also freely accessible.

5. The sacred history of Bydgoszcz

In the city center, there are several centuries-old churches with extraordinary histories.

The oldest is the Cathedral of Bydgoszcz, originally founded in 1346. The current building dates back to the 15th century. Although it is relatively small for a cathedral, it possesses a unique atmosphere and harmoniously fits into the riverscape of the Brda. In the bell tower hang bells from Kamjanez-Podilskyj. One of them, according to the novel Pan Wołodyjowski by Henryk Sienkiewicz, is said to have sounded the alarm during the Turkish siege in 1672.

The greatest treasure of the cathedral is the painting of the Virgin Mary of Beautiful Love, also known as the Madonna of Bydgoszcz. It was created in 1466 at the behest of the starost Jan Kościelecki and is known for numerous reports of miracles. Until 1922, the image remained largely hidden before being rediscovered by Father Tadeusz Skarbek-Malczewski. During World War II, it was hidden in Mąkowarsk. In 1966, it was crowned by Blessed Cardinal Stefan Wyszyński, accompanied by Cardinal Karol Wojtyła, later Pope John Paul II, who repeated the coronation in 1999.

The second oldest surviving church in the city is the Assumption of Mary Church, better known as the Clarissine Church. A wooden church of the Holy Spirit stood on this site as early as the 15th century. The current brick building was constructed in the 16th century and received its historical name with the settlement of the Clarissan order. In the 19th century, the distinctive clock tower was added. Since 1946, the Bydgoszcz tower signal sounds daily at noon. Today, the parish is overseen by the Capuchin Franciscans.

Many other churches have shaped the history of Bydgoszcz, even though not all have survived to this day.

6. Open-air concerts

During the tourism season, numerous open-air concerts are held in Bydgoszcz. They evoke earlier times when artists regularly performed along the Bromberg Canal.

Some of the most popular event series include:

• River of Music (at Opera Nova)
• Canal Culture (along the Bromberg Canal)
• Music Fountain (at the Potop Fountain)
• Multimedia Fountain (at the Pomeranian Philharmonic)

Admission to all events is free.

7. The Planty gardens along the Bromberg Canal and the Canal Museum

The Planty gardens form a historic promenade with plenty of greenery and picturesque walking paths. It used to be one of the city's most popular recreation areas.

The Bromberg Canal Museum informs about the history of the canal and its significance for the development of Bydgoszcz. Additionally, it organizes exhibitions and educational programs.

8. A visit to Old Fordon

Until 1973, Fordon was an independent town. Its market square, with the St. Nicholas Church dating back to the 15th century, represents a unique cultural heritage. The square was extensively revitalized a few years ago and equipped with impressive fountains.

Nearby is the former Jewish synagogue, now used as a cultural and community cinema. In recent years, a marina on the Vistula has also been developed nearby, from which more and more boat trips are offered. Future plans for the area include the addition of an indoor swimming pool.

9. The Potop Fountain

The monumental sculpture of the biblical flood was originally created in 1897 by sculptor Ferdinand Lepcke. Three versions were made in total: in Bydgoszcz, Coburg (his hometown), and Eisleben. The sculpture in Eisleben was melted down during World War II, while the fountain structure in Bydgoszcz was destroyed in 1943.

Thanks to the dedication of the residents, the fountain was faithfully reconstructed in 2014.

10. The Water Tower – viewpoint and exhibition space

On Dąbrowski Hill, which played an important role during the Kościuszko Uprising, stands the 45-meter-high Water Tower. It is about a ten-minute walk from the historic city center.

The tower was built at the turn of the 19th to the 20th century and was operational until 1990. Today, it belongs to the Water Museum of Bydgoszcz. In addition to exhibitions on the history of the urban water supply, regular art exhibitions are held here.

However, the biggest highlight is the observation deck, from which an impressive panoramic view of the entire city can be enjoyed. A bit of fitness is required for the climb, though.

For more information:

https://landtravel.pl/en/english/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wifQjg7wgk4

It’s tough—that’s life. I believe that those places were not meant for me, but at least I have somewhere to return to or someone to vent to. As an optimistic wandering soul, I once again dreamed of returning to Nadodrze. To my friends there or just to be able to do something there. And even though sometimes I didn’t find it funny in that dreadful Nadodrze—now I look at it quite differently.

I was supposed to move forward and spread my wings, but I feel stuck when it comes to life choices. It’s not about family or partnership or relationships, but I always seem to start studies and can’t finish anything. I don’t care about work—I care about self-development, and in Kalisz, I was weighed down, not in Nadodrze where I could have acted freely. I have very bad memories of Kalisz, but I won’t let anyone push me around.

I remember like it was yesterday how I was afraid of that journey. I covered my eyes when I saw the railway bridge and the Odra River through the window the first time I went there... Today, as a traveler, I will introduce you to the charm of Nadodrze and its beauties. Nadodrze has taught me many life lessons—some were not beautiful, indeed they were beautiful, but they were also painful or even frightening for me... If it weren't for Nadodrze, I would not be the same person I am today...

When I get into university, I promise myself to return to Nadodrze and understand it better. It wasn't easy for me, but every lesson has something to teach, and the passing people in our lives, where some stay and others leave forever—not necessarily dying—are meant to show us that we have to live life on our own terms and not according to what someone else dictates to us...

Day #18

Monday, May 18th

From Grodziszcze to Jesenik

Everything is gray and a light drizzle begins.

So, it's time to get up to pack the things as dry as possible.

Fortunately, it stays dry otherwise today.

I still feel very isolated, and the first living creature I see is a deer crossing my path.

Bumpy tracks alternate with pothole-filled roads.

At some point, my GPS wants to send me into a side street in the village. A quick look at the route ahead shows that both paths converge again, so I stay on the road instead of following the route. You learn, and I prefer asphalt. Sometimes, it's even smooth.

There's a lot of variety in the landscape, with beautiful little towns presenting themselves, and in the countryside, the scent of rapeseed and freshly mown grass wafts into my nose. Helpful, as otherwise it would be difficult to recognize certain paths. Otherwise, it would just be fields.

On the paved sections, I'm making good progress. Today, I also reap the benefits of yesterday's planting. The first 50 km are mostly downhill.

The first solo shopping trip arrives, taking correspondingly more time.

Lock up, remove electronics, shop… So far, it has always been super convenient that Dave handled this. So, I could write my report in the meantime.

By the way, Dave got home safely last night. All connections were surprisingly on time. Well done, Deutsche Bahn.

In the afternoon, I could even orient myself by the sun. Or so. A bright spot is visible in the clouds.

Shortly after, it even briefly shows itself and gives a taste of warmer days.

Which hopefully will come soon.

Another kilometer-long dyke brings variety. However, at the moment, there’s no water to be seen for miles.

That will come later, and a huge expanse of water spreads out before me.

Incredible how bombarded I am with impressions, and I continue on happily.

You become modest with the paths, and everything that allows you to ride without being completely shaken is a joy.

In the last third of the day, the altitude climbs. And I get closer to the Czech border.

In the evening, it's time to get water again. And I find it hard to hold back, so I grab some snacks again.

Then comes a murderous ascent. With up to 22% incline to tackle.

Once at the top, I see the deathly descent.

Half stairs, half drainage channel.

Fortunately, I decide to go down; I see a jogger at the bottom, so there must be something there, instead of blindly following the route, and I begin my descent.

On foot, I value my life.

The brakes do a good job, but the front tire slips occasionally.

Arriving at the bottom, I find train tracks, a barrier, and an embankment.

In the meantime, a woman is also making her way down behind me. Quite strange.

A short exchange, then I also see a bike path. And the reason for the struggles, the bridge of the bike path has been washed away.

So, I heave the bike over the tracks, drop the last meters, and continue on.

In the next village, I notice that the cars have different license plates and realize that I missed the border crossing into the Czech Republic during the previous action.

Further clues confirm that I have arrived in the third country of my journey.

There are better roads, the houses look a bit better maintained, and the white churches have shed their bricks, and there is a bike path.

Which takes me through the valley along a river.

Beautiful and good for the last kilometers until I come through a wooded section again.

However, valley also means here, everything is built up at the bottom or agriculture is there, and the forest is on the slope.

So, I push up another hill and I'm already lost in the forest.

Over yews, which Komoot doesn't even know. Or maybe it's the lack of internet that prevents it from displaying.

I'm fine with that.

After setting up my camp and finishing dinner, I throw myself into the hammock and review the last days.

My conclusion about Poland:

It is a vast and beautiful country. The villages are stretched out, and usually all the houses are along the one existing road.

The people we encountered were peculiar and initially seemed aloof. This appears to be culturally conditioned and has to do with a demand for sincerity. If something comes, then it's sincere.

We also met many nice people who offered help with repairs or advised us on finding a campsite. Okay, we didn’t need a campsite, but we kept that to ourselves, and it remained a nice exchange.

The infrastructure could be improved, but it seems that investments are being made.

I was also fascinated by the brick Gothic, especially the cathedral in Poznan.

It's nice that there’s already a decision to come back again.

Song of the Day:

Decapitated - Earth Scar (To conclude, a Polish band)

the Palazzo del Podestà

This palace dates back to the years 1225 and 1235 and served as the residence of the commissioners and captains of justice of Massa Marittima.

the Palazzo del Comune

The town hall from the 13th century. The coat of arms of the Medici adorns the façade since 1555, when the entire area was annexed to the Grand Duchy of Tuscany.

the Loggia del Mercato

The market hall of Massa Marittima is a historical medieval building with three arches from 1230 and originally served as a public grain storage to protect the town from famines, later becoming a covered market hall.

The mint was established in the early 14th century by the Free Municipality of Massa Marittima, which enjoyed its economic heyday due to mining. However, the coins from Massana were minted only for a relatively short period, approximately from 1317 to 1394, the year Massa came under Sienese rule.

Day #17

Sunday, 17th May

From Wroclaw to Grodziszcze

The alarm clock pulls me out of sleep, to which Dave can only smile tiredly.

Or perhaps well-rested and wide awake.

We prepared a few things last night, still spreading rolls for the day, and the last touches are quickly completed.

Moreover, it's pure luxury to be able to load the bikes in the apartment and take the elevator down again.

And even the few kilometers through the city to the train station are just a hop away. Then it’s time for another goodbye.

One last selfie, and our paths part ways.

Dave heads to platform 6 while I spontaneously stick with the idea of heading further south to the Czech Republic.

Breslau is a modern large city with a charming old town, and I look forward to coming back again with time.

The area is beautiful, and after the suburban sprawl, I'm quickly back among fields and forests.

Bumpy paths await me between the towns, but through the villages and stretches on country roads, I can easily rack up kilometers.

The secluded paths have their charm, and at a wooden bridge with a metal railing, I decide it’s a great opportunity to take a break.

While I enjoy the view and the sound of the stream, a woman speaks to me. She first asks about my plans. After she winks and tells me to put my phone aside, as nature is too beautiful.

From her, I learn that the railing is made from old beds from a former children's colony.

This was supposedly housed in a castle above our vantage point after World War II.

It’s a very positive encounter, and since her son-in-law is from Turkey, I’m to take greetings to Istanbul.

They're packed.

That was the first conversation where German served as the language of communication.

Otherwise, I have surprisingly much contact with locals today; there are two other encounters with cyclists that lead to conversations.

Central to the discussion is primarily my journey.

Is it more interaction because I’m traveling alone, because it’s Sunday and more people are out, or because it’s a different area?

It definitely feels good, especially now that I’m traveling alone.

Though I sense there were more worries beforehand, I realize. Traveling together is nicer, especially when you can share all the impressions and experiences, and being alone now is also good.

It's hard to put into words, but what’s clear is that adventure awaits.

In one of the towns, I’m reminded again that I need to adapt even more.

A bridge over the stream is blocked off.

At the next point I aim for, it turns out to be 20m too high and a highway.

So, I turn back and look for an alternate crossing in the other direction, which I had seen some time earlier.

Ultimately, I mimic the locals. Past the barriers, over, and on I go.

Later in the afternoon, as I’m in a very remote area, the water is running low despite my frugality. The APP shows a spot where there should be water in 20km.

It’s a campsite, and after a brief communication, I can fortunately refill my bottles.

Not long after, I realize the next Zabka (a convenience store akin to a corner shop found every 500m in the city) is always just around the corner.

But this is the crucial credo and must always be: seize opportunities when they arise.

While the mountains at the start of the day were still a bluish haze on the horizon, I now find myself in close proximity, which is noticeable with the ascents.

There’s plenty of forest and a potpourri of roads and paths.

The search for a place to camp is unnecessary.

After glancing at the route ahead, I quickly take the forest area next to me and decide that's good for today.

And then it’s a very peculiar feeling to set up camp alone.

Throughout the day, a certain melancholy accompanied me.

However, it was kept to a minimum. On our shared tour, there were often moments where we rode 'alone.'

Either because of the nature of the paths, because of cars, or simply due to different speeds.

Now, it feels really different again.

First, I lay in the hammock, sway a bit, and listen to the sounds of the forest.

After I muster some energy again, the rest gets done, and exhausted from the day, I soon fall asleep.

Song of the day:

Letzte Instanz - Das ist der Tag

(Lyrics must always be viewed selectively)

Tag #16

Saturday, the 16th of May.

From Komorówko to Wroclaw / Breslau

The night was cold again. However, that seems to be something fundamental.

I've been informed from home that the heating has been turned on again.

Otherwise, the day begins as the previous one ended.

On the matter, the tire is flat.

It almost becomes a routine; a Dave is standing in the woods patching it up. Meanwhile, I am taking down my setup comfortably.

Maybe a bit too comfortably, or Dave has too much practice.

He finishes just before me.

Then it's time to go, following the principle of hope. Let's wait and see how far we can get.

We proceed until the usual stop at the supermarket in Trzebnica.

While Dave does a final grocery shopping for us, I clean my drive from dirt and oil everything anew.

It's about time.

Then the old tune...

But a new tube from the hardware store next door, sometimes it just works out, and the flat tire is finally a thing of the past.

This is now repair number ... Doesn't matter, as long as we are rolling again.

Or at least struggling up the hill.

We have one last climb to tackle together.

The bike paths are mostly just a bit more than a widening of the roadway. Separated by pylons. Just a hint of nothing.

And there, especially shards or screws tend to collect.

Many dangers, but everything goes well; the tire holds up in the last kilometers.

However, the country roads regularly alternate with remote paths and trails, creating a lovely mix in the end.

Remote paths again require some effort, but we manage to fight through today's mud.

In the afternoon we take another voluntary break to book accommodation.

Shortly after, there’s a forced break. Into the rain gear. We could have done that earlier, but we were too optimistic.

So we ride the last kilometers to Wroclaw and absorb the impressions of the city.

Once across to our apartment.

Separated building. Gate in front. Security sign. Cameras.

Okay.

We are back to having issues with the door code, and soon a security guard comes asking what we are doing here.

Or at least wants to ask; we fail to find a common language, but a resident passing by can translate and help us out.

In the end, he was very helpful and advised us to take the bikes up into the hallway.

So once again, it’s working out; we push the bikes from the elevator, still fully loaded, straight into the apartment.

Pure luxury.

Shower and wash clothes, then continue exploring the city.

Even during the evening, the thought matures that we need to come back again.

Another idea takes shape while we discuss my further tour during dinner.

To adjust the route so that instead of Krakow, I go further south. Whether with or without Vienna and then through Bratislava.

Especially since the high Tatra will also be out of the equation.

Sounds tempting, let it sink in for now.

On the way back, we do the shopping for tomorrow Sunday and wonder if it was a delaying tactic that we took so long for the short distance today.

But that is ultimately irrelevant, as we agree that we have spent a great time together so far, and that is what matters.

The decision to come back to Poland is essentially already made, and so we can fall asleep relaxed.

Song of the day:

CrisisAct - Swathed in Skin and Scum (snappy short, just like today's tour)

Friday, 15.05.

From Siedlec to Komorówko

What is it so cold?

We had imagined it differently. Together with the persistent rain that has been falling on us since midnight, there is little motivation to get up.

So we stay lying down for now. Turning over is still an option.

It's time to write the report for yesterday, and in the hammock, it's easy to relax and enjoy breakfast much better while wrapped warm.

And another aspect that has been on my mind since at least this morning ...

It's only 215km from Poznań to Wrocław.

Then it's time to say goodbye.

Dave will take the train back home, and I'll turn the handlebars eastward once again.

We take with us what we can get. It stopped raining when we reluctantly decided to pack up. At least no new water is coming down, only the trees are still dripping on us.

Just as we set off, the rain starts again. That's okay, we are prepared for it.

What I am only partially prepared for is that while crossing a railway crossing, where even the usually unflinching cyclists slow down, my side bag falls off for the second time.

As much as I find the concept otherwise appealing, the attachment is absolutely terrible.

So, off goes the luggage roll, the dry bag out of the holder, new cable ties around the holder, everything back on and secured.

Let's continue.

We leave behind the only forest area for miles and continue through flat lands and fields.

Elevation gain? None.

Wind? That's fine.

Many churches and crucifixes make it clear that we are exploring a very Catholic country.

Partially newly built roads are a pleasure, and the houses in the villages are in various stages ranging from very new and modern to run-down and decayed buildings.

On a country road, we pass a construction site, and it's almost too incredible to be true.

Next to the road, there is a sand path (we have developed an eye for such by now), and shortly after, we see how actively a bike path is being constructed.

Keep it up, then it will be worth coming back here.

And I would recommend it to all interested parties.

The route takes us in the afternoon through an area with indescribably many lakes.

Beautiful and never seen before.

We ride on a narrow asphalt road, and on both sides, the shore begins immediately, with the wide water behind the reeds.

Above, a blue sky and clouds reflected on the surface.

Flocks of birds fly high, and now and then, a heron rises into the air.

Initially a bit clumsy, it then glides through the air.

That's about how we feel when starting off.

More kilometers of country roads follow.

At some point, we turn into the forest and enjoy the welcome change.

However, we stay unexpectedly long.

Dave has a flat tire.

So we stop, take off the tire, inspect it,

put a patch on, reassemble everything, and pump it up.

This takes a while.

Conveniently, since it was a snakebite, meaning the rim has punctured the tube in two parallel places, we stop shortly after to patch the tube again.

On we go.

No, the tire continues to lose air.

So the whole procedure starts again.

And we find that Dave has an original hole in the tube.

Caused by a thorn, still stuck in the tire.

So this pressure loss is what led to the snakebite in the first place.

Whole procedure the third time.

Now the tire can at least be pumped up much better.

On we go.

At an idyllic lake, I catch a glimpse of Dave stopping to take a photo.

When I turn around again, he is gone.

By the time I get back, Dave has already done half the work.

Practice makes perfect.

The first patch has detached.

So down with that, new one on.

For safety, the tire is only pumped up to three bars so it has to withstand less pressure.

Now we really have to go, but it's also high time. It is already almost eight, and we have a 'destination'.

Fortunately, we soon find a suitable place for the night along the route.

However, due to the delay and the remoteness, there was no opportunity to get water and food again.

It is what it is.

Quick set up, as the day is noticeably coming to an end.

We definitely wanted to have a cozy evening.

Once again, we were shown to be cautious with our wishes.

They might come true.

All set, including me.

After a sparse dinner of rolls with chocolate and banana, whatever was available, my stomach is still grumbling.

At least

Song of the Day:

Psychostick - This is not a Song, it's a Sandwich

Day #14

Thursday, 14th May

A new day greets us with sunshine, so let's tackle the chaos in the apartment.

Having too much space is tempting to abandon the discipline of the usual storage.

After breakfast, we'll haul up our stuff in stages and carry the wheels down.

And first, let's pump some air.

We could have done that yesterday, but that was a rest day.

Full batteries (no e-bikes)

With full provisions and charged batteries (I'm talking about the power banks), we set off just before noon and make our way through the city.

The traffic light timing tests our patience, and the constant stops are annoying.

Yesterday we could cycle through the greenery right up to the city, but today it’s one town after another. At least there are bike paths along the main road.

What the weather report indicated is already coming towards us due to the strong headwind.

Dark heavy rain clouds, and shortly after that, we only have time to switch into our rain gear at record speed. This way, we endure the downpour.

Soon after, it clears up again.

The probably only advantage of the wind is that everything passes quickly.

Luckily, we keep the rain gear on a bit longer, as I get splashed with water again from the combination of a large puddle and a truck.

Whatever.

One town follows another, and the day brings little variation for us.

Continuing along country roads, now in the cold sunshine, we pass through flat agricultural areas, alongside young wheat and blooming rapeseed fields.

Clear views in all directions allow our gaze to wander and give the wind a chance to unfold.

The body is still getting used to the fact that we are back in the saddle, then we meet an old acquaintance.

A sandy path doomed to pushing. The ground is so fine that we slip immediately and get stuck. No chance of progressing while riding.

I keep trying, but the sad truth is that Dave is faster than me with less effort.

Hopefully, these paths have been established as part of a comprehensive infrastructure project, and soon the EuroVelo 9, which we are following since today, will be really nice to ride.

It would be crazy if someone thought this was good in its current condition.

Once that is done, we appreciate the country road, and the cars passing by are just a necessary evil. Or the fact that the roads run very long and straight. Then a bend. And the next straight section.

We are moving forward again; that’s what matters and feels good.

In the evening, we refill our water supplies and take a look at the map.

What we already noticed earlier is that things look grim regarding the forested areas.

Lots of agriculture, indeed.

About 20 km away, it looks promising. So let's go, let’s try our luck.

And luck is faithfully by our side, at least when it comes to the search.

On the last few meters, after a bump in the ground, my sunglasses fell out of my pocket, and I end up with a hopeless set of broken pieces. Annoying.

Meanwhile, we assess the situation; everything is calm, and it leads from the road into the bushes.

Dinner, setting up, and quickly into our sleeping bags. The day was exhausting, and soon we are asleep.

Song of the day:

Nails - Lacking the ability to process

Wednesday, 13th May.

First, sleep in.

At least for me.

For Dave, it seems to be difficult and so he heads out to the bike shop in the morning to organize new brake pads. The ones that were sold to him by xy ... are the wrong ones.

Later he comes back with breakfast items.

In the meantime, I have washed my clothes in the sink.

While doing so, I notice my block of soap and I contemplate using Dave's out of frugality.

Which suddenly and clearly reminds me that this opportunity will only be available for a few more days.

Then everything will change again!

A heavy thought.

But that will be on another day, and after breakfast, though even calling it lunch would be a bold description, we head into the city.

Again on foot. It is still a rest day.

We let ourselves drift around.

Everything is very spaciously laid out.

At least in the city center, which excites us.

At the university, we pass by the Enigma memorial. 3 Polish cryptanalysts did immense preliminary work, which made their decryption possible.

Great achievement, and it's unimaginable how our world would otherwise look.

Many old Baroque buildings and beautifully designed façades at the old market.

There we also find a nice restaurant that offers vegetarian/vegan food, so the decision is easy for us.

After that, we continue across the city center, or we decide to walk to the Cathedral Island.

With this, I bid farewell to my plan to go to bed early, but we are only here today, so the opportunity is taken.

On the way back, we do some shopping to be prepared for tomorrow.

Moreover, it is Ascension Day (at least we believe so) and we are unsure if the supermarkets will be open.

Even though our waiter told us that he knows nothing about it and has to go to the university.

In the apartment, we eat something again, make a few preparations for tomorrow, and then it’s off to the bunks.

Song of the Day:

God Dethroned - Sigma Enigma

Day #12

Tuesday, 12.05.

From Dormowo to Poznań

Wow, the night was cold. Fortunately, the sleeping bag handled that quite well.

We start well-rested, but the morning makes sure we dress warmly.

To reach our ambitious goal of being in Poznań by tonight, we start off at a decent pace.

It's still a vacation, they said. And off they went. Or something like that.

The day begins as yesterday ended, we sink into the sand and become pedestrians.

But this is soon accomplished, and we warm up on back roads with many potholes and well-developed highways, where there are plenty of cars to balance things out. At least we try.

The hope of being able to shed a layer of clothes at the supermarket is dashed despite the sunshine.

Instead, we continue heading east, strengthened and loaded.

The wind is with us, providing extra push for Day 12.

We spend our lunch break by a beautiful lake under trees, with a view gliding over an old rowing boat, through the reeds, across the expanse of water, and the forests behind it. That's happiness.

We would like to glide as well, but instead there's an extreme incline of up to 15% ahead.

Nice, if it's already uphill, then please continue over sandy paths.

Then, after thousands of kilometers, it happens, I have my first fall.

After kilometers of navigating the path, I am inattentive, make a stupid swerve, and unfortunately, I'm still clipped into the pedals... and at least I land quite softly in the sand.

Quick check-up, adjust the saddle and clean the drivetrain with a toothbrush.

Yes, we have several with us.

It's definitely time for a rest day.

There's variety at all levels. Beautiful landscapes with roads to sink into, greetings to the couch, and highways of mixed quality with cars and trucks that make your heart race. Sometimes we are tempted to pet them, some of the specimens are so friendly.

Thanks to our mirrors, we can anticipate most situations, and there are no surprises.

And despite all the trials, it's still worth it; the view of the countryside and the beauty of the lakes makes us happy with the vistas provided.

Unexpected is how taciturn and introverted we find the people. Some might describe it as unwelcoming.

Very rarely is there a reaction when someone greets.

At least the dogs react loudly to us.

Is it due to the rural area?

Perhaps we will find out.

Also surprising for us is the sight of an SUV with a trailer, which size would still be suitable for disposing of garden waste.

In this case, it is stuffed full of sheep.

Everything is just different.

We keep biking further and further. And further.

At first, the view of the speedometer with the remaining kilometers to Poznań is still depressing, but that changes gradually.

The kilometers - and altitude meters! - are slowly and steadily dwindling.

By the afternoon, we are confident we will make the entire distance and book an apartment in the city center.

After mastering the challenge of the door system, shortly thereafter, all our things are carried upstairs.

As new people, freshly showered, we make our way to the city center to grab dinner. It is now after 10:00, but we are lucky.

So, we assumed, the internet had made us corresponding promises.

After a proper portion of pierogies, we leisurely head back to our accommodation, and all that’s left is to fall into bed.

Song of the Day:

Terror - One More Enemy

Tag #11

Monday, May 11, 2026

From Stańsk to Dormowo

In the morning, everything is covered with a green film.

As if we were standing in the forest. Hello pollen season.

Fortunately, we have no issues with allergies; otherwise, it could be difficult to behave inconspicuously.

The prospect of rain motivates us a bit.

Shortly after departure, we decide to switch into our rain gear after all.

First stop: supermarket.

With the available selection, we at least manage to get some water.

So, second stop: supermarket.

Restocking supplies.

Shopping takes time. And time. And time.

Each time we have to refill, repack, and eat something to fill our supplies.

The actual shopping hasn't even begun yet. Dave is mastering the challenges of the foreign language.

Eventually, everything is done. 2 hours and a whole 10 km covered. That could lead to something.

It rained briefly, and we dare to take off our clothes.

In the villages that still remind us a lot of places in Germany, we are greeted by cobblestones.

At least category 4!!!

Due to a lack of bike paths, we otherwise ride on the road with moderate traffic, leading us through many forests.

The paths curve beautifully into the landscape, and riding is fun.

And while we had trouble remembering the names of the places back home, we now have to completely give up. Too many czcsw's... we are completely overwhelmed.

While we cycle through gorgeous fields, mostly with the wind at our backs, the realization comes that we are truly on a journey.

The new country, the foreign language, as far east as we've ever been.

Far from wife, family, and friends.

This brings mixed feelings.

The weather also gives us mixed feelings.

After an afternoon when so much sun came out that we even strapped the solar panel onto the luggage rack, the sky becomes increasingly threatening, and the wind picks up.

We quickly end our break.

Still unsure whether we should put on our rain clothes.

No, we remain hopeful.

And ten minutes later, we find ourselves under oaks in pouring rain, correcting our naivety.

In the next village, we tank up on water once again.

The sky clears up; rain gear off.

While Dave is shopping... it starts to rain again.

One of those days. No matter how you decide, things always turn out differently, and it was the wrong choice.

Fortunately, it was the last rain of the day, and after a nasty and wet sandy road that still demands quite a bit from us (we have to push!!!), and especially after a kilometer-long construction site that surprisingly sees a lot of traffic, we find our spot for the night.

Dinner, setting up camp, and off to the bunks, with the wind rustling in the trees. The glamping site 'around the corner' is completely irrelevant.

Song of the day:

Raised by Owls - Break Stuff

23.03.2026

Greetings from Krakow

Our last stop in Poland was Wrocław.

On a guided city tour, we explored the Old Town and Cathedral Island.

Large parts of the city were destroyed at the end of World War II and rebuilt starting in the 1960s. 

Today, the colorful houses around the 'Ring', the large market square, shine again in their former glory.

Our walk through the city turned into a joyful 'Dwarf Hunt' with many small figures:

The Wrocław Dwarfs (Polish: Wrocławskie krasnale) are over 600 (or perhaps even more) small bronze figures scattered throughout the city as a tourist attraction. 

Originally created as a symbol of the anti-communist underground movement

On the way to Wrocław, we made three stops today.

First, we stopped at Moszna Castle, which looks like a fairy tale castle with its mix of different architectural styles and many towers.

The current structure was built at the end of the 19th century and today houses a hotel, but it is also open for castle tours and visitors.

Unfortunately, when we arrived, there were only Polish tours available, and the next unguided visit would not have been possible for another two hours.

So we bought tickets for the park and looked at the castle from the outside.

To get a glimpse of the interior, we enjoyed a coffee in the castle café.

Our next stop was in the provincial capital Opole.

We could not understand the designation as 'Silesian Venice', even though there were some beautiful spots in the city.

The town hall was built in 1936 and is said to have been inspired by the Florentine Palazzo Vecchio...

After our tour, we stopped at a small local establishment and had a large portion of pierogi.

Lastly, we stopped in Brzeg.

At St. Nicholas Church, we noticed how high the nave was built.

Otherwise, we found the city mostly not very interesting, apart from the castle.

It was built here for the Piast rulers when Brzeg was still the capital of an independent principality.

After being destroyed by fires and war, it was rebuilt from 1966 to 1990.

We continued on to Wrocław, which we plan to explore over the next two days.

In the morning, we drove to the former silver mine Tarnowitz, where mining was still conducted until the 1920s.

Today, visitor groups are guided through the underground tunnels, where miners used to struggle primarily with the inflowing water.

The tour began in a few modern exhibition rooms before heading underground.

On that day, there were only tours in Polish, but we were able to listen to an audio guide in German on our phones while following the Polish guide.

Since 2017, the mine has been part of the UNESCO World Heritage.

We continued to the not-so-distant capital of the Silesian province.

Katowice has about 300,000 inhabitants and appears to be quite modern - even if there were still some buildings that clearly dated back to the communist era.

We parked at the Silesian Museum, although we only viewed the large complex from the outside.

In the square in front of the town hall, there happened to be an Easter market with very colorful decorations.

We enjoyed a delicious piece of Polish cake and then began our journey back.

We spent the night at a private parking spot with a lovely view in St. Annaberg.

In the evening, we took a little stroll through the small town with its baroque pilgrimage church.

Our path continued through a beautifully designed geopark with walking paths and (Polish) information boards.

Finally, we passed by the amphitheater. Although it is somewhat dilapidated, it is not ancient and still impressive in size.

In the morning, we took part again in a city tour with 'Walkative' - this time through the Jewish district of Kazimierz.

Originally, the place was independent until it became part of Krakow in the 19th century.

At its peak, up to 70,000 Jews lived here, with several synagogues and Jewish institutions.

Jewish life came to an end as the German occupiers relocated the Jewish population to another district and established a Jewish ghetto there in 1941.

All Jews were compelled to move to the other side of the Vistula within a short time.

Our tour also took us there.

Not far from the former ghetto was the factory where Oskar Schindler saved the lives of many Jews.

The tickets for the exhibition had been sold out for weeks, so we could only see it from the outside.

Afterward, we took a tram and a bus out of Krakow to visit the Wieliczka Salt Mine.

Salt has been mined here since the 13th century, and the 'white gold' was an important source of income in the Middle Ages.

A small part of the 300 kilometers of tunnels on nine levels can be visited as part of a tour.

The tours started every 5 minutes in various languages.

We found the chapels made of salt particularly impressive.

Reliefs and figures were also made of salt, although they had a gray color.

After spending about two hours underground, we went back outside and returned to the campsite.

We started our first day in Krakow with a guided city tour by 'Walkative', which was even offered in German.

The guide, although from Krakow, spoke very good German because she had studied in Vienna for a year.

She entertainingly showed us the city center with its impressive buildings. These were not destroyed in the war because the German occupiers regarded Krakow as a 'purely German' city and therefore wanted to preserve it.

After Mongolian invasions, German settlers were called to Krakow in the 13th century to help rebuild and planned large parts of the city anew.

Our tour also took us to Wawel Castle, which still bears witness to Krakow's long-standing status as the capital of Poland. (Many Krakow residents, according to the guide, do not quite want to accept that it is now Warsaw.)

Legend has it that a dragon once lived below the hill, which could not be slain by any knight. Only a poor shoemaker had the saving plan: He wrapped tar in a sheep's wool, which the hungry dragon devoured whole. Afterward, he became so thirsty that he drank up the Vistula and eventually burst.

On the castle grounds stands the city's cathedral. It serves as the burial site for Polish kings, which can also be seen in the various chapels built in different architectural styles, which the individual kings had constructed as their burial sites.

After the tour, we had time-window tickets for the exhibition at the castle.

Unfortunately, despite the tickets we had purchased in advance, the line extended across the entire courtyard, so we used up our entire time slot waiting to get in.

We first visited the first floor, which showcased an exhibition with various exhibits about life in the castle, even though much of the original furnishings had been destroyed.

We had also booked a ticket for the second floor, but unfortunately found that our exit led us out and one would have to wait again in the long line to enter the second exhibition...

Finding the first floor less rewarding, the rooms and their furnishings on the second floor were at least somewhat more impressive.

In the end, there was also an exhibition of Ottoman tents showing trophies from battles from the 17th century.

In the evening, we took a small boat trip on the Vistula.

During this, we also saw some more modern parts of the city but noticed that Krakow's Old Town is best explored on foot rather than seen from the water.

After enjoying some delicious pierogis, we strolled through the illuminated city.

We climbed back up the castle hill, where a Good Friday mass seemed to be just ending.

After a last look over the city, we made our way back to the campsite.

Today we visited the Auschwitz memorial, which commemorates the countless victims and atrocities of the National Socialists at the site of the most infamous labor and death camp.

Many buildings from the main camp Auschwitz I have been preserved and are partly accessible to visitors.

We had booked a short tour that lasted just under four hours, covering Auschwitz I and Auschwitz-Birkenau.

Until now, the sights we had seen in Poland were relatively less visited. This changed here: In the morning, at least two tours started every fifteen minutes.

With a German-speaking group, we followed a Polish guide who spoke excellent German across the site.

From 1940 to 1945, approximately 1.3 million people were deported to Auschwitz, of whom about 1.1 million were killed here.

Many of the arrivals were not even registered in the camp but were killed immediately in the gas chambers of the crematoria.

In the former barracks, there were exhibitions of the belongings of the deported, which were confiscated upon their arrival at the camp.

The buildings were very crowded because so many groups were going through at the same time. However, in the outdoor area it spread out a bit more, and we encountered even fewer other groups as we traveled by bus to Auschwitz-Birkenau.

Here is the 'ramp', where from March 1942, trains with Jewish prisoners from all over Europe arrived.

On the grounds, we were able to visit an old residential barrack and thus get an impression of the undignified and cramped conditions for the people incarcerated there.

Overall, the visit to Auschwitz was very impressive. Seeing the camp was different than just reading about it or looking at pictures.

It is horrifying what humans do to other humans.

Never again is now.

In the morning we drove to Castle Fürstenstein, the largest castle in Lower Silesia.

We parked at the Palm House and walked to the castle, allowing us to see the large building from various viewpoints along the way.

The paths and surroundings of the castle were beautiful and clearly designed for large crowds of visitors.

While we were viewing the castle, we were mostly alone in the rooms.

An audio guide narrated the history of the castle and its inhabitants as it guided us through the rooms.

In many rooms of the exhibit, the focus was on the last aristocratic owner, Princess Daisy, the first wife of Hans Heinrich XV from the Hochberg family.

When she lived in the castle with her five children, there were about 300 staff looking after the family’s wellbeing.

The second wife of Hans Heinrich XV, who was over 30 years younger, later caused a scandal: she had an affair with her youngest stepson, whom she later married after divorcing her first husband.

After these aristocratic family stories and a lot of princely splendor, we returned via a small forest path to view the Palm House.

This is where exotic plants were cultivated for Princess Daisy, but also fruits and vegetables for the princely kitchen.

Today, in addition to many exotic plants, there are also aviaries and some ring-tailed lemurs and aquatic turtles.

We continued to the Peace Church of Świdnica.

After the Thirty Years' War, Emperor Ferdinand III allowed the Protestants to build three peace churches in Silesia. However, the churches could not be constructed within the city walls and were prohibited from having a tower or bell. Additionally, they had to be built only of wood, straw, clay, and sand within a year.

This led to the creation of impressive half-timbered buildings, whose interiors are surprisingly lavish - not at all reflecting Protestant modesty.

7500 people could fit in the church - though most had to stand. Today, however, there are only about 100 people left in the congregation, who struggle to maintain the building.

After a brief stroll through the town, we continued on our way because we wanted to stay overnight in Auschwitz to visit the memorials the next morning.

We found a spot for our motorhome on the grounds of the 'Center for Dialogue and Prayer', where we tried Polish pierogi for dinner.

We actually wanted to start the morning with a 'city sneak' tour through Görlitz. Unfortunately, the information on the website was incorrect, and the tour at 10 a.m. did not take place.

So we decided on a walking tour through the city and after some not-so-successful AI attempts at a guide, we found a city walking podcast that accompanied us on our way.

Thus, we stroll through the beautiful old town with its large squares.

We started at the large Upper Market with beautifully renovated civic houses around the square.

After that, we came to the Lower Market, where we found the copper-red Schönhof from 1526 particularly impressive next to the Old and New Town Halls.

Görlitz was spared from destruction in World War II, which is why over 4,000 listed buildings from Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and Art Nouveau are to be admired in the old town.

At the end of the war, however, the Wehrmacht blew up the bridges over the Neisse, so the old town bridge was not preserved.

Today, bridges again connect Görlitz with the Polish city of Zgorzelec. Both cities were once together before they were separated by the border drawn after World War II.

We walked across a pedestrian bridge to the Polish side and walked along the river with a view of Görlitz before indulging in a little refreshment at a café. There we learned that a 'Chai Latte' in Poland is a spiced coffee.

Back on the German side, we returned to the camper and then set off by car towards the bridge to Poland.

We drove to Jelenia Góra (Hirschberg).

Originally, we wanted to drive a bit further, but then realized that most campsites are still closed in March. So our selection was quite limited, and we drove about an hour less than originally planned.

Instead, we took a little walking tour through the old town in the afternoon.

The market square, in particular, presented an impressive image: Around the large square, pastel-colored log houses stand, and in the middle rises the large town hall.

On the way back, we passed two churches, but we could only look inside through a grill.

The Holy Cross Church has a capacity of 4000 people. It was one of six 'Grace Churches' granted to the Silesian Protestants by the Habsburg Emperor after 1707.

After these first impressions in Poland, we spent the night at the almost empty campsite. 

We had seen the first shower approaching and - retreating into the dunes and wrapped in our blanket - we waited it out, but the next one caught us unprotected on the beach and soaked everything that wasn't shielded by the jacket or the waterproof blanket.
In a small café, we warmed up again before continuing on our way.
In the evening, we cooked for ourselves in the camper, we had potatoes, tomato salad, and pickles.
We were still in the West Pomerania Voivodeship; tomorrow we would head further east, into Pomerania.

Here, we found the long-awaited parking spot, with everything that comes with it.
For dinner, we went to the fishing beach, where there was fresh Baltic herring for Ines and fish cutlets for Sebb.

Peace returned to the marina for dinner.