After a very nice time in Romania, I am now sitting on the Flixbus to Sofia. I will arrive there this evening after a 7-8 hour journey and am already looking forward to Bulgaria.

Yesterday, I met Kai and Annette, who were in the same room as me. They are a sibling pair from Norway, and Kai recently quit his IT job because he was burned out.

I have already been at the T5 Social Hostel in Bucharest for a few days. There is a lot going on here. Many locals from Bucharest also meet at the hostel and participate in events like poker or quiz night.

Of course, I watched Germany's 7:1 match yesterday. Right now, I'm waiting for my laundry to finish so that I have fresh clothes for my last days here and the first few in Sofia.

A special person I’ve met here is Brwa. He is originally from Erbil in northern Iraq. Officially, he lives in Canada but is currently in Tanzania with Doctors Without Borders. I have done quite a bit with him here.

Day #39

Monday, June 8th.

From Constanța to Kawarna

(this is the spelling with the letters available to me ... and that’s how it’s pronounced)

Country: Romania / Bulgaria

Before breakfast, I first go for a swim.

Make the most of the fact that the accommodation is right on the beach.

And I am at the damn Black Sea!

It’s warm, the sun is shining, and the water is wonderfully refreshing.

Definitely the best possible start to the day.

Afterwards, I 'walk' back.

Well, it’s at least a walk, I usually avoid jogging.

While I have my oatmeal for breakfast, I already start packing my stuff.

Then it's off to shop, the only scheduled stop for today.

I’ll let everything else come as it may.

Like the federal highway, which I follow for most of the day.

Which is also practical since my GPS is now completely out of map data.

It showed that earlier, so I ignored the warning.

This means I follow the displayed line, but other roads and paths are missing.

This is annoying, as sometimes it makes more sense to stay on the road than to follow every route suggestion.

And in a few towns or larger places, I sometimes get lost because I lack the view of which road is actually meant.

I’ll deal with that later, as otherwise, I would have to end the current route recording.

No way.

For a change, I find it somewhat easy to remember some of the place names.

They have such creative names as Venus, Jupiter, Neptune ...

However, I have to look twice when I see '23 August' signposted.

At first, I'm convinced I've misunderstood the kilometer indication, but the place is actually called that.

Later I also pass through '2 Mai' ...

These are historical dates, interesting that places are named after them.

Otherwise, the day is quite unspectacular, because federal highway, of course, long stretches straight ahead, dense foliage on the sides, and lots of traffic.

Behind me, everything closes up again, and yet I'm lucky to ride mostly in sunshine, and the few clouds in between make the ride more pleasant.

And then comes the Bulgarian border.

Yeeha.

Country number #7.

What strikes me quickly is that there are many wind turbines and intercity buses.

The cars brake more and keep their distance when overtaking. Much more pleasant for me.

In any case, most do this, and suddenly it’s also possible for those with Romanian license plates.

Moreover, there is more greenery in the form of trees. Partly in the distance, but I'm optimistic about finding a place to camp.

The villages, in my opinion, look quite similar to those in Romania.

Fewer ostentatious buildings.

Everything seems a bit simpler and more rustic.

In the evening, I have to get water at a gas station, and I find a suitable place shortly after leaving the town to disappear among the trees.

It gets dark early, and so I lie down in the hammock after dinner at an appropriate time.

Good thing, I can barely keep my eyes open.

Conclusion Romania:

A beautiful country.

Very diverse in terms of landscape, with contrasts between rich and poor, as well as in parts modern cities and simple village life.

The few contacts I had were exceptionally positive and warm, and fortunately, the saying has proven true again that barking dogs don’t bite.

If I ever get the chance to come back here, I would be very happy.

Song of the day:

Milking the Goatmachine - Seven (... A Dinner for One)

Sunday, June 7th

Constanța

Country: Romania

Sleeping in. And I really slept in, waking up properly only shortly after noon.

Wonderful.

Breakfast, and then I decide to stay in the apartment.

I receive an extreme weather alert from the Romanian weather service, with heavy rain, storms, and thunderstorms all included.

And then it starts pouring. So much that the drain in front of my apartment door turns into a fountain as the water backs up there.

That’s fine, I can take care of writing the report from the day before yesterday. I've been a bit lazy about that.

Once the worst is over, I take a stroll along the beach.

Of course in my swim trunks, I definitely want to go swimming.

Which I do when I return towards the apartment.

The water is turquoise blue and clear.

Wonderful.

A quick rinse-off afterwards, before I grab my bike and head into the city.

First stop is the Ovid Monument, where he was exiled about 2,000 years ago.

I gather some nice impressions.

A wide street is closed off all the way to the harbor, and many people are strolling along here.

I roll by at a leisurely pace.

Since it’s already afternoon, I grab a snack. So that I can strengthen myself for the search of a place for my dinner.

This persists throughout the vacation, basically, I’m permanently hungry.

The sky has also darkened quite a bit again, and the first heavy raindrops start to fall, prompting me to head towards my accommodation.

On the way, I find a Turkish restaurant, which I approach without hesitation.

The rain keeps intensifying, making the decision easy.

On the terrace, I can enjoy my falafel plate comfortably and dry.

And I can find a route to the nearest supermarket.

Well, I know it's Sunday, but the shops close 'already' at 8:00 PM, as I am reminded on-site when I see the locked doors.

At least it has stopped raining again.

So I will replenish my supplies tomorrow before departure.

That's okay too; then it's back to the beach to unwind for the evening before I pack up the essentials and comfortably fall into bed.

Song of the day:

Disfiguring the Goddess - Don't Stop Swimming

Tag #37

Saturday, June 6th.

Thursday, June 4th.

Bucharest

Country: Romania

Something kept me awake at night, and I'm far from fit.

But I have tasks to accomplish, so I grab a quick breakfast on the terrace before I get to washing my laundry.

Going old school in the bathtub, as the washing machine is out of order.

As long as the sun is still shining, or at least it’s dry, the clothes can also be taken outside to dry.

The mission regarding the brakes is of absolute priority.

Dave found me a shop that I’m now heading to.

My thigh has calmed down a bit, which is relieving, allowing me to casually bike through the city.

Very good, they should be able to take care of it during the day.

To inquire about shoe covers, I go back once more.

They don’t have them, but a call reveals that they have some at their second shop.

After some additional exchange, the guy there calls again, and they even have time to take care of my brakes right away.

Wonderful, this makes things even more relaxing.

He gives me the address and says it’s about 10km away... he looks at me again and we both laugh.

So off I go on the bike, navigating through the cars and the city up north.

The mechanic takes my bike, and just in time for lunch break, he has it ready.

Perfect.

Unfortunately, the shoe covers are six sizes too small.

For another attempt, I head to the local Decathlon, but that’s a failure as well.

No matter, from now on it’s going to stay dry. For sure.

At least I managed to get a new muscle shirt, as I would like to have a second one.

I had convinced myself before the trip that one would be enough, but in a brief moment of impulsiveness, I thought I would need two.

At one of the lakes in the city, I treat myself to a snack and watch as the clouds gather above the city.

I have seen quite a lot of the city already, and I want to explore the center on foot.

So, I carry the bike up eight floors, and we can get started.

First, heading towards the Palace of the Parliament, one of the largest buildings in the world.

Yes, it's mainly big.

Sarcastically, it’s also called the House of Victory over the People.

Many people were forcibly relocated, and large parts of the city, including some churches and synagogues, were demolished to make room for this monstrosity.

The Mihai Vodă Monastery has survived but did have to relocate.

Accordingly, the remains of the old town are quite modest.

While I’m out and about, the sky continues to darken, and a storm is approaching.

Lightning and thunder accompany my exploration tour.

When it starts to rain, I choose a restaurant with vegetarian cuisine, once again assisted by Jenni.

It’s the perfect time for dinner.

Having eaten well, the food was very good, even though the portion could have been larger for my hunger, I head towards bed.

I discard the plan to go shopping today since it is raining too heavily now.

Luckily, I managed to get an umbrella in the afternoon, so I arrive at the kiosk relatively dry to get some water.

And finally, I get my preferred tobacco.

Please give me three packets right away.

Since quite a bit of rain falls on my fabric shoes despite the umbrella, I decide on a whim to take them off and merrily walk the last stretch barefoot through Bucharest.

When a car splashes through a puddle next to me and drenches me from the knees down, I am doubly glad about my choice.

There’s certainly something to be said for being able to splash through all the puddles.

Once back, it’s time to pack.

At least the things that I can do today.

Because much always consists of a ‘first this, then that...’

Eventually, everything is done, or I stop rearranging stuff from one side to the other and go to bed.

Song of the Day:

Pennywise - Fuck Authority

Day #34

Wednesday, June 3rd.

From Morârești to Bucharest

Country: Romania

Shortly after waking up, I witness firsthand how trash ends up in the woods.

A farmer couple is herding their three cows down the road and, in a seemingly casual motion, the next bag lands in the forest.

That's how microplastics come back to you all by themselves.

Or, as I've seen, plastic sticking out of haystacks.

Yum.

What I have been hearing all night is the trucks passing by on the country road.

Let’s wait and see what awaits me.

I’m a bit worried about my left thigh, it feels somewhat swollen and hurts.

I hope that goes away.

First, I'll take an ibuprofen, since it's anti-inflammatory.

After the last climb, which is what I get to tackle first, there’s a beautiful descent through the forest.

It would be even nicer if the truck behind me would keep some distance. Overtaking is impossible due to the road limitations anyway.

That both of us are above the speed limit is irrelevant.

It seems to always be just a rough guideline.

Accept and pedal steadily is the motto.

And then one village follows another.

All the houses line the one road I’m traveling on. Occasional side streets only lead to other villages.

Probably the only reason there are different place names is that it would be difficult to assign house numbers from 1 to twelve million.

Due to this setup, the local recreation area is always right behind the garden.

To the left, the foothills of the Carpathians rise, and on the other side, there’s agriculture.

This way, I can enjoy looking at each individual house, which are in various stages of construction.

From dilapidated to under construction, to half palaces.

Anyway, I have the feeling that considerable energy is being invested in restoration.

Sometimes it’s hard to decipher what I’m looking at when a construction site looks like a ruin at the same time.

Shopping at noon is a necessity; first, ice cream, because it’s very muggy again.

Occasionally there are even bike paths, and sometimes I can actually use them.

Too often, they are used as parking spaces.

Bike paths here are a bit of a specialty. If there’s an obstacle, they just end and then start again as if there never was a creek or a tree.

I take a break under a bridge to have some shade and sit in the greenery without it being a front yard.

And if you ignore the cars and the trash, it’s quite a nice spot with a small stream by a kind of dyke, where two farmers supervise their cows, sheep, and goats.

Sometimes I hear a cart rumbling above me.

If I counted right, I’ve turned off five times on the way to Bucharest.

Ignoring rest spots and roundabouts that I went straight over.

The whole day is completely monotonous, aside from even more traffic in Pitești.

Although, I drive off the federal road twice and get to enjoy the permanent decline that accompanies me throughout the day and finally switch off my mind for a bit.

When I finally see one, I notice there are almost no sports fields.

Playgrounds are also almost completely absent.

Basically, people seem to be primarily traveling by car.

The first road cyclists on this side of the Carpathians, people riding just for fun, I see only shortly before Bucharest again.

I prefer to go around a military exclusion zone, even if my GPS shows that as the optimal route, and then it’s finally time; I enter Bucharest.

Unlike the traffic-jammed cars, which I can elegantly weave past.

The check-in is a bit annoying again. I have to call several times until all the information is available to access the apartment.

And there’s no internet, but there’s a terrace and a view of the Palace of the People.

Time for a shower, then with help from home pick a restaurant and off we go into the city.

While finishing the last report, I realize that I’ve covered almost exactly 3,332 km.

I could have done another round around the block.

As the tobacco nears its end, I set out to look for more and ask around, which works even without language.

Then into the accommodation and just fall into bed.

Song of the day:

Zeal & Ardor - Row Row

Day #33

Tuesday, 02.06.

From Novaci to Morârești

Country: Romania

After being in bed later than expected yesterday, I realize while packing that my shoe covers are missing.

Extremely annoying, especially since heavy rain is forecast for today.

So I have to retrace yesterday's route into town where I took them off, which unfortunately proves to be in vain.

I guess I'll have to take the day as it comes and, if necessary, get soaking wet feet.

For the route to Bucharest, I’ll head through the Southern Carpathians, starting with a delayed departure towards the east.

This involves quite a bit of ups and downs, and often climbing, meaning steep inclines over a longer distance.

I decide to go with the cold option, so just riding in a shirt.

Climbing makes me extremely warm and I start to sweat.

Going downhill is very fresh, but it would be too much hassle to put the jacket on and off every time.

Swaying power lines cross my path, which gives me an uneasy feeling as they seem to hang just three meters above my head.

I'm sure it will all work out.

There are many wells in various designs along the roadside, and many locals use these to fill water containers.

A sight I have become familiar with.

And then it happens again, another bikepacker comes towards me.

It's such an unusual sight for both of us that we sit down in a café to chat and get something to drink.

Christopher is an American who now lives in Finland and previously lived in Romania for 14 years.

He tries to take a cycling vacation in the Balkans at least once a year and has plenty to share, as he can work while traveling and move around a lot.

He also gives me helpful tips for Greece.

It’s well known that there are many churches there.

However, they all likely have running water and are excellent for camping next to.

Locals seem very relaxed about it.

Good to know. Additionally, he thinks the chosen route, further north and away from the coast, is well chosen.

After our exchange, we continue in our respective directions.

It’s very humid and I ride the first part of the day right on the weather edge.

Threatening dark clouds on one side and blue sky with scattered clouds on the other.

Until I take a turn to the north.

There was already thunder before, and then the rain starts.

Fortunately, there’s a sort of small chapel or prayer place with a roof and benches.

I let myself settle and seek shelter.

I actually wanted to get through the current ascent and then take a break. Better to do so in the dry, as options for shelter are scarce.

Right decision, there’s a proper downpour and I watch while munching as my bike gets washed. Unfortunately, I have to leave it by the road.

While I’m still considering my options and preparing to get wet, the rain stops again.

Rejuvenated, I hop back on the bike and continue, and eventually the sun even comes out.

Lucky me, I stay dry throughout the day.

Or at least, it’s not rain that soaks my shirt.

In the afternoon, I pass through Ramnicu Valcea, a city on the rise, and the impressions are nice, although I had hoped for a bit more.

Primarily, the traffic increases. Unfortunately, from here on I must ride on a federal highway, and there’s a lack of a proper shoulder, making it uncomfortable with the vehicles passing by.

The road sign indicates that Bucharest is still 170km away. My GPS gives the route as 177km.

This could be an adventure.

What is it with the dogs?

It started yesterday, as they seem to have something against me.

Completely relaxed, they let everything pass until I show up, and then they go a bit crazy. Or do they see food on wheels?

With classics like eventually there will be a hole in the fence. Hello, this is now very close.

As long as they just bark, it’s fine.

At least the animals are braked for, whereas for me, it seems to be partly punishable to cross the center line.

After a stretch of secluded paths, I return to the highway, where trucks are blocking in one direction and the next ones are roaring from behind. Extremely uncomfortable.

Fortunately, shortly after, there’s a side road I turn onto, and I quickly find a spot for the night.

The litter scattered around shows that people are here, but right now it’s all deserted, and I set up my camp, step away a bit for my dinner, and enjoy my sandwiches.

The day was surprisingly exhausting, as it had more elevation gain than yesterday on the Transalpina, and I gently let the sleep take me.

Song of the day:

Antrisch - Ultima Ratio

Monday, June 1st

From Mihalț to Novaci

Country: Romania

Today I'm doing it the other way around.

Since I often have trouble uploading pictures, I'm using the current Wi-Fi access.

First, the pictures and the text about my crossing of the Carpathians will come later when I have time :)

Day #31

Sunday, May 31st.

From Zārieș to Mihalț

Country: Romania

The Carpathians await.

And I am ready.

The night was quiet and I slept well.

There was a bit of rain in the morning, but thanks to the tarp, the tent and bike stayed dry.

Moreover, it has stopped raining, and the sun is coming through as I pack up.

However, today I have some significant headwinds - first world problems, I know.

It's as if I have to fight for the approach to the Carpathians myself.

Do you really want this?

Oh yes.

And so I tirelessly forge ahead.

A highlight of today's route is the fortress in Alba Iulia.

Though I don't appreciate it as much as it probably deserves.

Okay, bicycles are also prohibited there.

So, I continue, as I have a destination.

According to my guidebook, 75km after starting the Transalpina, from Sebeș, there is a plateau suitable for overnight stays.

Fortunately, supermarkets in Romania are open on Sundays, so I get fresh pastries and bananas to sustain me through the day and the first section of the Carpathians.

The questions about where I come from and where I am going, all while cycling, are piling up.

I also seem to be the exotic one, as I am the only one cycling with a road bike.

And that's only near cities.

In the villages, bicycles can occasionally be seen.

Most of the time, they are just standing or hanging around somewhere.

Meanwhile, I always offer German as a language in conversations, as I learned from Péter that many learn it in school. Along with English, it's one of the two optional languages.

For lunch, I turn off into a location that's questionable and seems more like a dump.

This is something new and disturbing for me.

How much trash lies in nature and what is thrown out of cars.

You brought the stuff here, so take it back with you.

The next trash can is coming; I know that from experience.

It’s nice that all the water sources today are working.

And since I'm already on the inclines, I fill my bottles at every available opportunity.

At the first stop, I'm lucky and seize a good moment before several vehicles arrive and the people want to fill all sorts of sizes of water bottles.

This reminds me a lot of the situation on Day #3.

A passing hare looks very much like Felix, so I greet him warmly before he sets off to his next destination.

He even told me he wants to write a letter.

I also reach my daily goal; the plateau is here, and to my right, a reservoir stretches while the sun shines down on me in golden yellow.

I find a suitable spot just below the road.

And I set up my hammock between two fitting trees, right next to the wall where the road runs above.

It feels good with the barrier on one side and the slope to the water on the other.

But I'm in the Carpathians, and warnings about bears are common here.

So, I go a good distance away from my campsite for dinner.

And then I hoist all my supplies into the trees before returning to my hammock.

With the knowledge that the full moon is shining down on me, even though it is obscured by clouds.

Fortunately, I know from the song by Freitag about Dracula that he is no longer around.

Otherwise, I might have gotten some garlic.

Since today, I've been on the road longer than ever before.

It’s a profound feeling.

Just like the 3,000 km that I've completed with today’s tour.

And with thoughts of what I’ve experienced so far, I bid farewell to this day, which had surprisingly plenty of sunshine despite the looming cloud fronts.

Song of the Day:

System of a Down - Attack!

(I debated whether I could use the song given the numerous conflicts; yes, I’m talking about conquering the Carpathians...)

Saturday, 30th May

From Cluj Napoca to Zărieș

Country: Romania

Getting up and the usual game of Tetris begins.

The bags are wonderfully empty... without any food.

However, I will change that first, as I want to be well supplied.

And then it's out of the city, straight into the hills.

While climbing uphill, I meet Péter, who is on his way up with his mountain bike to ride some trails.

He gives me a few tips regarding the locals.

Or maybe it's more of a warning to be cautious.

On the roads and while camping.

Of course, we talk a lot about my journey. And since he also wants to do a bike packing tour soon, the most important thing is to get going.

After leaving the city, the climbs continue to test me.

And my GPS sends me through farm roads, which eventually leave me standing in front of a pasture fence.

Go back and drive over the bumps again?

Unwillingly.

I opt for the alternative, unhook the fence in the appropriate spot, go through, re-hook it, and continue over the path, which is now somewhat acceptable, through the pasture.

It works, and I find myself back on a road that leads me through beautiful little villages.

It's time for a break and my second breakfast, during which I enjoy the view.

I take a hearty bite of my pretzel roll.

Which is filled with ham.

One of the things I was clear about before is that eventually, due to my lack of language skills, I would encounter meat.

Whoops.

Then I’d better focus on the descent ahead, and so after a strenuous first part that takes me through beautiful landscapes with hilly meadows and small villages, with long descents, I make good progress.

The climbs today give a little taste of what rises in the distance ahead of me.

The Carpathians are within reach.

I've noticed that I was previously vague. Often, when I talked about country roads, I meant what could be understood as federal highways.

Those are particularly unpleasant.

Today I’m riding many remote country roads with manageable traffic through a primordial Romania. That's how I feel about the villages and people. At least more like what I had imagined.

Even if it’s hard for me to picture what living here must be like.

In many places, you can see that it must be a simple life.

Often, hay is still gathered by hand and stacked into heaps, somewhat like igloos with a pole in the middle.

There are impressive rock formations that I pass by, and I believe Péter’s word that the area is great for hiking.

I would like to refill my bottles at a water point in Rimetea. But instead, I find a mixture of festival and street market.

Two large stages are set up, and there are many stalls in the alley selling crafts.

Musically, there’s pop and traditional.

I take a quick look at it before moving on.

I take a lunch break in a rocky gorge through which the road passes.

It's hard to put into words what I feel.

By evening, there should be another water source. At the indicated spot, there is a kind of well, but it must have been a long time since water was last drawn there.

Luckily, I have previously arranged my drinking water supply financially and can look for a place to spend the night sufficiently supplied.

Like in Slovakia, the locals show how it's done, throughout the day I see several campsites.

Instinctively, I take a suitable turn towards the river.

The tent is already set up.

At least as a decision; I must of course set it up myself.

Something remains intact, the tarp is stretched over it.

During the night, it is supposed to start raining, and then I can pack up in the 'dry' tomorrow.

I wash in the river, and during dinner, I hear the Oriental sounds of an open-air event nearby.

Once it quiets down, I listen to the concert of the frogs and fall asleep.

Song of the day:

Dirty Shirt - Dope-a-min (Romanian band)

Friday, May 29th.

Cluj Napoca

Country: Romania

Sleeping in. Feels good.

And fortunately, the neighbors upstairs only started drilling or tearing down walls when I was wide awake.

Then the relieving news: the Transalpina is supposed to be open from today.

That’s the mountain pass road through the Carpathians that I want to take.

And the duration of the winter closure always depends on the weather.

I have relied on climate change, which seems to work in my favor, so I can take the recommended route south.

Originally, I had planned to change the brake pads today. But when I look at them after breakfast, I think they’re still good enough. So I’ll reinstall them and head into the city.

My side quests are a memory card and a haircut.

Memory card for the Go-Pro and a haircut so that my niece recognizes me again.

So I let myself drift, with no fixed goal, and soon find myself on the way to the citadel, from where there is a nice view over the (old) town.

Noticeable are small food shops that only serve through a small open hatch, with many customers sticking their heads inside, which looks somewhat amusing.

Additionally, there seem to be very few smokers. At least, I’m still unsure how extensive the non-smoking regulations are in Romania.

In the evening, I find a hairdresser who has time.

He used to work as a truck driver and knows Düsseldorf and the surrounding area, too. Too much traffic.

Yes, that’s why it’s better to hop on the bike.

It’s a bit confusing that it’s still so light out; I have to get used to it, and soon it’s time for dinner.

With Jenni's help, I find a vegetarian/vegan restaurant, and the choice of dish is made purely based on the indicated nutritional values.

Chili is meat.

By the way, all the few guests seem to be tourists.

Back at the accommodation, I take a small bike ride to check if the brakes are properly installed.

All good.

It feels like there are only three- to four-lane one-way streets in downtown.

Annoying when you want to turn left as a cyclist; my route ends up being a bit longer.

Then I need to pump air and pack my bags. At least I try; instead, I just move things from left to right and give up.

Better to keep talking to Jenni before heading to bed.

You should always focus on one activity anyway.

Song of the Day:

Felix the Hare - Dracula

Thursday, May 28.

From Oradea to Cluj Napoca

Country: Hungary

After the short stop, we continue on a relaxed note today.

First stop: shopping. And since I want to ensure self-sufficiency, I'm getting enough groceries to last until tomorrow.

Water points that are indicated in the app have been included in my route, so I am also prepared in that regard.

Theoretically.

Hopefully, there are some functioning ones among them.

With 5 liters, I am well equipped for the start.

I am looking forward to the elevation gain, taking everything as it comes.

And that means constant uphill today.

Much of it is on country roads, sharing space with other traffic participants.

Or they zoom past while I look for a comfortable space for myself.

Mostly right on the edge of the narrow shoulder, as it seems frowned upon to brake.

Of course, it also makes the rims dirty.

After Oradea, it quickly becomes very rural, and I only pass through a few villages.

There are some rundown buildings, but also very well-kept or modern houses.

Some are in a state somewhere in between.

It’s somehow a hilly lowland.

Everything gets a bit more undulating; otherwise, it’s just like in Hungary.

I realize at some point that there are no forests along the way.

It was interesting to pass through a Roma settlement.

Passing by children and free herds of horses.

The inclines are particularly unpleasant due to the passing trucks, and I would definitely advise against a family vacation at this point, especially if you want to let kids ride on their own.

Going downhill is fine for me to merge into traffic; I am faster than the others there, at least on curvy stretches.

And uphill... eyes open and hands firmly on the handlebars.

What I also notice is that seemingly every village has its own police station.

Even if it’s just a police car in a ramshackle shelter and a sign on the house across the street.

Then the exciting moment arrives: the drinking water station is coming up, and beneath a church, a bit off the main road, I find it.

And it works.

So, first, I take a lunch break and fill up the bottles.

I’m making reasonably good progress, and the conviction is growing that I can make it to Cluj Napoca today.

A thought I had this morning as a vague idea and now solidify by booking accommodation.

Which is also a novelty—staying in accommodations for consecutive nights.

So at different locations.

Looking for a night camp 40 km before the city just feels wrong.

Especially since the selection of options is limited; I’ve been driving through a valley all day.

And finally, the time change is in my favor since it’s an hour 'longer' light.

Or is it the music I'm listening to? Inspired by the concert Jenni attended yesterday?

Anyway, what counts is the result.

Transylvania, here I come.

Three huge dogs barking loudly and rushing across the vast meadows in my direction provide extra motivation.

It helps me get through the last climb of the day.

It's also reassuring that there is a road boundary.

But after reaching the highest point, it’s all downhill to Cluj Napoca.

Yeeha, what a descent.

And with the darkness setting in, I’m approaching my destination at full speed.

Reassuring that my bike shines like a Christmas tree.

What I'm missing is a blinking light for the front.

The oncoming traffic should see me before they execute their sometimes crazy maneuvers.

Late in the evening, I arrive in the city, and once I have my key and all my things are in the apartment, I enjoy a well-deserved shower and dinner.

I have enough provisions with me and can skip going out again, as I can smoke on the balcony.

Perfect, and the last trip leads me only to bed.

Song of the day:

Waking the Cadaver - Suffering Upon Revenge

The Danube Delta is the second largest biosphere reserve in Europe after the Volga Delta. Typical birds include the Rose and the Dalmatian Pelican, the Spoonbill, the Herring Gull, the Great Egret, the Rails, the Night Heron, Bee-eaters, Swans, the Stork, the European Roller (…Rat ;-)), the Cetti's Warbler, the Ibis, a swimming cow, and so much more…..

We explore the delta with a hotel ship designed for a maximum of 20 people. The cabins are approximately 9m2 in size and feature windows, a toilet, and a shower cabin with warm water. Full board with Romanian specialties that leave nothing to be desired.

This is a unique opportunity to experience this UNESCO World Natural Heritage site up close, especially since the ships provide dinghies to navigate the smallest canals. Ideal for bird watching, photography trips, or simply enjoying a peaceful break with nice people.

We board in Tulcea and first travel along the Sulina Canal, visiting Mila 23, Caraorman, an idyllic fishing village, an abandoned factory area for glass production from the Ceaușescu era, the Litcov Canal, which at 45km is the longest canal and serves private passenger shipping, we visit a 500-year-old kneeling oak and many lakes up to the Ukrainian border.

Ukraine has increased the depth of the navigational channel in certain sections, which negatively affects the sensitive ecosystem of the Danube Delta.

Briefly about the history: The rule of Rome (106 AD) under Emperor Trajan led to Romanization and the emergence of the Romanian language. Wallachia, Dobruja, and Moldavia were under Ottoman suzerainty for a long time during the 14th-18th centuries. Transylvania was mostly part of Hungarian or Habsburg rule in the 16th-17th centuries. In 1878, the Romanians achieved independence from the Ottoman Empire, and in 1881, the kingdom was established under Charles I. From 1947 to 1989, Romania was a dictatorship under Nicolae Ceaușescu, marked by heavy repression from the Securitate. He was violently overthrown in 1989. This was followed by democratization, NATO accession (2004), and EU accession (2007). These took place in the parliament in Bucharest. The present parliamentary building was constructed from 1984 to 1989, displacing 40,000 people, and the historical old town was partially destroyed.

St. Nicholas Russian Church was built in 1905 and is the only Russian church in Bucharest.

Next, we head north towards Tulcea. The typical fishermen's houses are white/blue, partly traditional but also not very insect-friendly, such as yellow.

From here we will board a hotel ship to visit the Danube Delta; I will share this wonderful experience in my next post.

We approach travel preparations very differently too. What the millennial has in Lonely Planet is what Gen Z has in TikTok. Short videos as travel guides - huh? Well, that way, many insider tips would be provided and therefore they would know that the parliament building is in the Guinness Book, among other things, as the heaviest building in the world. Aha, it seems Selje has quite a bit of Bucharest knowledge ahead of me. She asks me unironically if I have brought all my Lonely Planet books for each of my travel countries in my backpack. Lol, no, I wave off, it's already heavy enough.

Our guide during the tour is more serious than Papa Smurf, but not as energetic about the matter. Routinely, he rattles off the same facts we had already heard the night before, in addition to a few tossed-in jokes that sadly fall flat.

'There is no dress code because there are a lot of tourists in the audience as well.', reassures the ticket seller when I want to buy a ticket two hours before the start. However, there is only one left and he does not accept card payments. So, I quickly run in the pouring thunderstorm to the nearest ATM and back. When I come back, drenched, the man at the ticket counter over-apologizes. The last ticket had just been bought online. 'I am so sorry, the app is not connected to our system. That is so shit... Sorry for my English, is not very good.' My last joker would be to come back shortly before the concert starts and maybe snag a VIP ticket that someone has let expire.

So I pass the time waiting. Behind a villa, I discover a restaurant under a pavilion. As the only guests, a few Romanians in casual chic. Words like Mauritius, Ukraine, Ghana, Madagascar, Peru, Machu Picchu, Chile, China are thrown around. So, it's about traveling. 'Watson', Udo always said in such situations. As soon as someone said something completely obvious, he would say 'Watson' - because of Sherlock Holmes and his assistant.. Watson, quick thinker, duh, just say it. Udo was the one who repeated a class in the 8th grade and with one year older was anyway the coolest in class. But this casually thrown 'Watson' was extra impressive.

Back at the Athenaeum, my ticket dealer gives me a thumbs up and has a VIP ticket for me, which is even a bit cheaper. Fourth row, best view. My seat neighbor rolls his eyes as I squeeze past him in my outdoor going-out dress. Exactly on time, the orchestra appears, conductor appears, applause, Beethoven. The Romanians don't waste time. I notice that the orchestra consists exclusively of young people, at most in their mid-20s. It must be a youth orchestra. Watson.

The two Belgian women take a train back over Budapest to Bratislava, which leaves in the afternoon. I say goodbye to the two friends and am glad to have reduced some of my reservations against Gen Z. Maybe at their age I had a higher attention span for films, but did I have the patience and ability to independently walk over 20 km through foreign Eastern European cities back then? Probably not.. Together we explored the city and laughed about our quirks and especially those of the Romanians. Now alone again, it suddenly occurs to me how overwhelmed I feel by Bucharest. It is just too much city. Heat, hardly any parks, too many cars. As a pedestrian, you’re right at the bottom of the hierarchy, and this mix of Pyongyang and Marzahn is impressive at first, but after Day 4, the city is just giving me a headache.

This year, I spent Easter in a completely different way than usual. I traveled to Sibiu in Romania. There, I met with Kaja, Cordula, and Konrad. Kaja is studying theology and is currently doing a semester abroad. This way, we had someone who knew the area and could show us around the whole city.

The three of us treated ourselves to an Airbnb, allowing us to make the most of our time together. We stayed in this charming street in the old town in a little town house.

After our first little exploratory walk, we had a good initial impression of the city. On the first day, we mainly wandered around the old town. Our daily goal: to eat ice cream at least once a day!

On Saturday, we continued our exploration through the streets, trying delicious food and attending a concert with music for Holy Week.

In the evening, we went to the Orthodox Church for an Easter Vigil, which was a bit different for us. It started at half-past eleven and usually lasts at least four hours, sometimes even longer.

The interior of the church was beautifully painted and pleasantly lit.

Of course, the service was in Romanian, so I unfortunately didn't understand anything. However, it was interesting to experience such a different service. The practices were quite different. For example, many people stand for the many hours. While there are chairs available to borrow, not many people take advantage of this offer. There were also many more signs of the cross than some Christians might be used to. And then, of course, as in every other service, there is a specific liturgy. For us, it sometimes looked quite chaotic, as if they didn’t have a plan. But every person has a clear understanding of what to do (except for women, who are not allowed to work in the Orthodox Church).

Also different from us is the length of the Easter vigil. Usually, it lasts about one to two hours, but not at least four.

The three-doored golden iconostasis separates the space for the congregation from the altar area. You can discover many different icons on it. At the beginning, you can only hear the prayers but cannot see them being spoken, as the priest stands behind the iconostasis in the altar area. Occasionally, a helper comes out from the side doors, and incense is distributed at regular intervals. After a good first hour, the priest came out with all his helpers, with only the priest allowed to go through the main gate. There was a procession to the front of the church and around it a few times. At the end, prayers and preaching continued in front of the church. After about an hour and a half, we returned to our accommodation, as we couldn’t hold out standing for the whole four hours (at least).

On Sunday morning, we slept in and then went on a good egg hunt before heading out for a cozy brunch.

Well-fed, we then climbed some elevation. Once on the church tower, we could view Sibiu well from above.

What’s special about Romania is often the houses. The windows in the roof space always look a bit like eyes.

After our trip up, we headed out for a little hike to the open-air museum about 5km away.

On our last day, we were invited to the Orthodox community by Katja. The priest also spoke German and included a German prayer in the two-hour service, so we understood something every three-quarters of an hour. The small Orthodox church was similarly structured but not as lavish as the large one in Sibiu. The service lasted a little longer than two hours, and, like before, there was more standing than sitting. Afterwards, we had a communal brunch together with the congregation members. This is rather unusual in Romania, as community life is not practiced there as it is in Germany. However, the priest had lived and worked in Germany for a while and brought this 'tradition' into his congregation.

A final walk with a view of Sibiu.

And then it was time to say goodbye. If Kaja hadn't already been there, I likely wouldn't have traveled to the city and probably wouldn't have attended one or another Orthodox service. So overall, it was a very beautiful and interesting experience, especially to witness such a festival in another country, of a different religion.

For Konrad, the journey continued through Romania, while Cordula and I headed to Mediaș in the evening to take the night train to Vienna.

On the night train, we shared the compartment with another young woman and even ended up watching a movie together.

A night train is quite a wonderful thing. In Romania, you say goodnight and travel, in our case, through several countries, waking up in Austria.

So, until next time, then in Austria!

Between my time in Budapest and Sibiu, I had just about a day and a half to spare and thought I would enjoy it somewhere in the middle of nowhere, where I couldn’t do much and could just take a break. 

So, after getting up in the dark and waiting an hour and a half for my connecting train in Sibiu, I found myself in Fagaras. 

The train ride there was beautiful. The entire journey was alongside the Fagaras Mountains, providing a wonderful view and sight.

When I arrived at the hotel at ten in the morning, I was lucky to be allowed into my hostel room early. A silver lining, as it gave me time to rest properly, especially since I wasn’t feeling very well that day. 

In the afternoon, I decided to explore the town and at least take a closer look at the church from the outside and visit the castle.

The church can already be seen from far away by its golden roof. It is an Orthodox Christian church. 

At the castle, there was a museum you could visit, which covered the history of the castle as well as a bit of the history of Romania. To visit the rooms, you had to wear these funny little covers for your shoes, so as not to damage the floor...

In the end, I wandered around a bit in the outer castle grounds. 

After the short but delightful excursion, I returned to the hotel for an afternoon nap, bought myself some delicious pasta in the evening, and then the next morning, feeling very refreshed, headed back to Sibiu. Even though there wasn't much going on in the small nest, I accomplished what I wanted to and had a good rest, slept a lot, and simply let my soul unwind.

When we boarded the night train to Bucharest, we didn't expect much except breakfast – but it was quite the opposite. The night train was surprisingly comfortable with a private bathroom complete with a mini-shower. In our two-person compartment, we were able to slowly take in Transylvania, the partly snow-covered Carpathians, and Wallachia while admiring old-school steam locomotives and equally old-fashioned station masters at a travel speed of over 50 km/h, which catapulted us from Budapest to Bucharest in just 15 hours.

Everything was very pleasant and comfortable – it would have been even better with food. To our surprise, breakfast was not included in the – admittedly very low – price, and there was no onboard bistro. So we had to ration our meager supplies. Upon arriving in Bucharest, we were compensated with poor pizza at the bustling train station. Strengthened by this, we set off for our hotel in the midst of the old town, surrounded by nightclubs and hourly hotels. We did not expect much from our destination Bucharest: It was a stopover between Budapest and Istanbul. We stereotypically anticipated ruins, Bolshevik brutalist residential blocks, and soulless new buildings. There were indeed enough ruins and renovation backlogs, but very few brutalist residential blocks and very few new constructions. Much was demolished under dictator Ceaușescu, and to this day Bucharest appears like a once-thriving metropolis. In many places, it is evident that the city was once envisioned as a variation of Paris, and thus Bucharest still boasts many beautiful, even if somewhat dilapidated, facades. There seems to have been hardly any renovation offensive like those in Poland or East Germany. Therefore, Bucharest still seems charming and more alternative than the very bourgeois Budapest.

Bucharest's 'Old Town' is full of touristy restaurants and shops and brimming with life. Bucharest has more residents than Hamburg, yet occupies a smaller area than Munich. The 'Old Town' consists of remnants of old architecture that have been pieced together into a reimagined urban core. In Romania, one even speaks of the youngest old town in the world.

You certainly don't have to see Bucharest, but it was a very pleasant short stay. Highlights include the concert and event center Atheneum, the gigantic Palace of Parliament completed in 1984 - which is surprisingly aesthetically pleasing (though it’s tragic that many old buildings were demolished for it), the Macca-Villacrosse gallery passage, and – our insider tip – the Catholic monastery in the city center. For culinary delights, we recommend the “Aubergine.” Here, you’ll be satisfied with delicious food in a lovely atmosphere, especially when you haven’t been served breakfast again.

On foot, I set off for the city's Japanese Garden. On the way, I encountered a group of journalists interviewing the entrepreneur and politician Gigi Becali. I didn't quite understand the topic, but it seemed very exciting.

I didn't stay very long in the Japanese Garden and instead went to King Michael I Park, the city park of Bucharest.

When it was time to check into the hostel, I took the bus from the Arch of Triumph to the old town, where my hostel was located. At €10 a night, the hostel was very affordable: modern amenities, even including breakfast.

Wanting to make the most of my only day in Bucharest, I immediately set out to explore the city. I briefly walked through the city center and joined my next city tour.

Our guide led us along churches that beautified the cityscape, showed us where the nightlife in Bucharest took place, and brought us to the best cafés in the city. He especially illustrated how communism changed the city's appearance and the lives of the people.

Romania allied with the Nazis during World War II and became a military dictatorship. After losing the war, they came under Soviet rule and became communist. Before the war, Romania blossomed and was among the richest countries in Europe. It was very Western-oriented, and they modernized the capital in the style of Paris. With communism, that changed, and the typical communist worker buildings displaced the historical buildings. In some places, you could look along the streets and see two different worlds: on the left, the magnificent buildings of the West, and on the right, the bleak Eastern blocks.

We ended at Revolution Square. From there, Romania transformed from a communist dictatorship to a democracy in 1989. Today, there is a monument commemorating the activists and revolutionaries who died in the fight against communism. In the center stands a column from which four pathways extend in the shape of a cross. The pathways are made of tree trunks. Each tree trunk represents a deceased activist. A total of 12,000 trunks were used, mostly young trees, as it was particularly the students who fought against the system.

In the evening, I finally settled in a Romanian restaurant and ordered Mititei, Romanian minced meat rolls.

Even though I could only explore Bucharest superficially, the city proved that my prejudices of a dreary, gray city were partly unfounded. I was surprised by the fascinating history of the country and can now see the city, as well as the country, as a result of the difficult circumstances, which I find very intriguing.

The journey first took us through the landscapes of Hungary. Along the tracks, small, quiet villages occasionally appeared amid the endless flatlands. During a longer stop in one of the villages, the Hungarian police boarded the train. After a brief scare, I realized we had reached the border and checks were ahead. Shortly after the border, we experienced the same in another language. There, we also received a new locomotive, along with the sleeping cars.

There, in a small Romanian village, I unexpectedly met six Saxons. They were also traveling on an Interrail ticket and wanted to go to Athens as well. We exchanged numbers and disappeared into our compartments. In my compartment, I also met two Germans who were heading to Bucharest. Together with a calm Romanian, we were four in the compartment, preparing our beds and soon went to sleep.

With my new earplugs, the noise from outside was completely blocked, and I could enjoy a wonderfully quiet night, with only a few exceptions.

The first sight in the morning from the train window revealed that we were now in Romania. In the villages we occasionally passed through, there were mostly small, primitive huts. Broken corrugated roofs were covered with tarps, trash was disposed of behind the house or in the fields, and doors and windows were often hard to find.

The people in the villages went about their daily lives: some worked in the gardens behind their huts, children played together on the streets, and now and then, the elders sat on a bench, cigarette in mouth, watching the passing train.

The entire scene in the countryside made a strong impression on me and fascinated me greatly. And soon, the train arrived at the capital's station, Bucharest.

Today we are taking a wonderful trip towards the south-west. The Lacul is located about 110km south of Timisoara.

The approach over Swiss cheese asphalt via Potoc.

There are two parking spaces at the end of the asphalt road. From there it is about 7km or a 1 hour hike to the fish farm.

Alternatively, you can drive up a Drumul Forestier to fish farming with a vehicle weighing up to 12.5t.

There is also a campsite here. You might miss the Cascada La Vaioaga and the beautiful nature along the way.

From the fish farm it is another 30 minutes to the Lacul.

Lacul Ochiul Beiului is a beautiful karstic lake located in the Cheile Nerei-Beușnița National Park in the Anina Mountains, in Caraș-Severin County. The lake is known for its crystal clear turquoise waters that do not freeze even in winter. It has a maximum depth of about 3.6 meters and a surface area of around 284 square meters. The lake is fed by a strong karst spring, which explains its constant temperature and clarity. Legend has it that the lake was formed from the tears of a young Bei (Turkish title) who was crying for his lost love.

Be aware of the dogs

Forget the bears in RO. Anyone who travels off-road or on-road in Romania must be prepared to see dogs on the road at any time (!!!).

While the dogs were predictable off-road when driving over alpine pastures and meadows, on-road they would suddenly come charging out of the hedge. Unfortunately, not all of them are friendly. Many Romanians tell me of attacks on cyclists and joggers.

On my trip I had contact with dogs almost every day - fortunately without any accidents (on both sides).

Above all, the shepherd dogs or the "wild" dog packs should not be underestimated.

My recipe: stay calm and concentrate on driving quickly - don't swerve under any circumstances, keep your limbs on the bike. The dogs usually left me alone after 10 meters - maybe it was because of the heat and the fact that I left quickly. You should have very good control of your bike, especially off-road. I left the engine running off-road during photo sessions or short breaks.

In the mountains - watch out for cattle and horses!

You can find them on-road and off-road.

They were peaceful towards me, but getting around them is unavoidable, so keep an eye on your speed.

If you see dirt spots (cow pats, mud) on the road, you get a good indicator.

Attention! Forest workers!

I often thought I was alone off-road in the forest - until I met a group of forest workers in the next clearing - or rather their equipment:

Timber truck, excavator, flatbed truck or Dacia Logan. So expect oncoming traffic on gravel roads too. Possible indicator: dust development

Vegetation extending into the roadway

Nobody cuts back trees and bushes here. Be careful: on side roads, a branch or bush can easily extend into the road.

In any case, visibility is severely impaired, which can have extremely unfortunate consequences when combined with cows, horses, tractors or carts.

Romanians cut the curves

For whatever reason, the curve is often shortened despite the solid line - to the detriment of oncoming traffic.

This is often the case, especially in the mountains. In situations where things got too crazy for me, I switched on my additional light on the motorcycle - I had the feeling that it helped.

Because the oncoming Romanian (out of shock 😜) often seemed to correct his driving line.

Tractors and other slow vehicles

Yes, they still exist here: horse-drawn carts.

Just like tractors, they are very slow. They can have one thing in common: they are over-loaded with straw and lurk around every bend, both on and off-road. Romanians are generally not interested in signs prohibiting tractors and other vehicles on the road 😅

After digesting yesterday's palinka, I ended my tour with some sightseeing at Castelul de Hunedoara (Hunedoara Castle).

This time the tourists were already there and I met a few companions from the Black Sheep Camp again. They still have the whole journey ahead of them with their 4x4. I am familiar with their routes.

We ride on - past a district full of Roma villas like this one. Very eccentrically decorated facades. I wonder if the donations from the pedestrian zones of the world end up here!? 🤔

We arrive in Hâteg. Here we take a drink break in the small town park.

Finally, we return to Timisoara via Caransebes. Driving break.

After having mastered the off-road route from the Black Sheep Camp, Fia and I enjoy the Apuseni Mountains on the Transursoaia in bright sunshine.

The panorama is fantastic, the roads here are all new.

After a few asphalt sections, we head off-road.

Then home, where Mama Manu serves me my first Romanian doner kebab 😁

Then I drove the 108j behind Hued. Beautiful route, varied, winding and goes through a gorge that is reminiscent of Cheile Bicazului.

The Apuseni Mountains tour ends in Garda de Sus. I decide to drive to Deva. So I turn right onto the gravel road 162 along the Dizdit and then continue 25km on the gravel road Drumul Iancului past Avram Iancu to Bulzestii de Sus.

The Drumul Iancului is a symbolic hiking trail in Romania that connects the historical places linked to the life of Avram Iancu, a Romanian national hero. The trail stretches for about 45 kilometers, from Vidra de Sus in Alba to Țebea in Hunedoara. This trail was created to honor the memory of Avram Iancu and to preserve the history and culture of the region. Every year in September, people from all over Romania gather to walk this trail and visit the historical sites.

From there continue on asphalt via Brad and Salistioara to Deva.

This time, the La Cetate camping site is located at the foot of a castle ruin. The evening ends with Palinka and Manele music 🥳.

The rain starts during the night - it has to happen sometimes. The temperature drops to 25°C.

My clothes are no longer water-resistant because of the constant sweating, so I immediately put on the giant neon green condom.

For Fia and me today it’s Goodbye Maramureș and Hello Cluj!

Track 109F takes us over mountain passes mysteriously covered in steam to Rogoz and then along the E58 to Rus.

On to Cluj-Napoca and no rain. Huge, busy city. I do a few laps around, get an overview and take an obligatory photo.

I can't do more today because I'm going on an off-road trip and cities aren't a good fit 😉

I drive on to the Lacul du acumulare Gilau west of Cluj. This seems to be the Bad Homburg of Cluj-Napoca. One Lambo after the other, local recreation on the water, villas everywhere. There are several dams or lakes one after the other: Gilau and Somesul Cald

It's raining again now, the asphalt road along the towns of Somesu Rece and Somesul Clad is new and exciting because it's full of curves. But you should always be alert because of the rain.

The plants next to the roads in Romania often protrude far into the road. In addition, here in Jadetul Cluj they especially love cornering, which is obviously annoying for motorcyclists. But Fia has been given extra bright lights - that will immediately attract the attention of any Romanian.

At the top at 1100m, the fantastic panorama of the Apuseni Mountains awaits you.

I'm looking for the off-road camping site Black Sheep Camp ( https://blacksheepcamp.wordpress.com/contact/ ) in Poiana Horea for us to spend the night.

We pass the upper part of the Somesul Cald reservoir again.

A very adventurous drive up a stream. The relatively steep climb on a dirt slope was only a little damp and therefore easily doable. At the top there is a brilliant camping site run by Dana & Tudor.

Here I meet lots of nice off-roaders from all over the world over Palinka, beer and steak. We spend a lovely evening together around the campfire.

Today we start off-roading down from the Bouke camping site. Then up the Pasul Prislop, then turn left at Manastirea into the TET section. One of the most beautiful TET sections on my trip.

The weather is great and dry, so the more difficult passages should also be doable with Fia.

Done! Towards the end it was a very rocky track and in some sections it was only possible to do it at walking pace.

From here it is only about 5km to Ukrainian territory.

We continue along Balasina and Tasla back to Baile Borsa or Borsa town.

This off-road section leads through ruins and farms (where 🐕 are already waiting for us) - later becomes Swiss cheese asphalt.

But from Baile Borsa everything is fine again.

That was exhausting.

Now it’s time to explore Maramureș on-road.

In Viseu de Sus there are delicious burgers.

In Maramureș there are many wooden churches that I come across on my way.

Today my track takes me to Sighetu Marmatiei and the Ukrainian border.

My day ends at the happiest cemetery in Romania, the Cimitrul Vesel.

An artist has decorated the gravestones of the deceased with cheerful rhymes. It's a fun way to find out who the person was or how they died. A real tourist attraction in Romania.

Today I'm spending the night at the camping site above Sapanta. Together with Slovakian off-roaders, we have a chat about petrol over sausages and beer before going to sleep.

After packing up the tent and saddled up Fia, things get exciting: I drive through the Cheile Bicazului, a navigable rock gorge, right at the start of the day - a real highlight. This brings back memories of the Georges in France. By 8:30 a.m., numerous selfies are being taken - this time without me.

I continue along the Bicaz to Bicaz town, where there is a huge dam on the Bistrita river.

The result: The Lacul Izvorul Muntelui stretches over a length of about 17 km - surrounded by mountains, a beautiful and well-prepared panoramic road. Many pensuines invite you to relax. I think there are also many holiday homes here in ideal hillside locations and views. I drink a Cafea Langue at one of the numerous viewpoints.

Lots of cattle, sheep and one or two anglers are using the huge space. I head right to the Manastere. To do this I make a long loop of about 70km through the Parcul Natural Vanatori Neamt.

When we arrive at Manastirea Secu, the monks are hard at work in the garden. Mowing the lawn, trimming the hedge. The rooms in the courtyard are being swept. Everything is sparkling. I'm really early. The tourists arrive after me.

The church in the courtyard is very lavishly decorated. It smells of incense everywhere.

In the sides there is the muzeul and accommodation.

The next manastirea is called Sihastria. It seems very big to me. I only have two photos here because 📷 are not allowed here. It was also well-tended down to the last blade of grass. Here and there there was renovation. Flowers everywhere in the most dazzling colors.

The next Manastirea is Sihla and is located at the end of a gravel road on top of a mountain.

Since it is a bit shady here, I take more time and do the circular route. I am immediately approached by Romanian tourists who can speak a little German - they explain to me the connection surrounding Saint Teodora, who meditated here for several years in a crevice in the rock and only lived on roots and rainwater.

It reminds me a bit of Saxon Switzerland.

The route then continues over hill and dale to a small bee farm run by the monks. All without protective suits and of course the Romanian flag cannot be missing.

Down in the monastery everything is again in tip top condition.

The next Manastirea is Agapia. I have to take the gravel road down the other side of the mountain. There is a lot of oncoming traffic here. There were also German license plates.

Agapia is the manastirea with the greatest variety of flowers in the courtyard. Very impressive.

The corridors around the courtyard are lined with white columns - southern flair.

But now enough of all the mansions. I close the loop via Targu Neamt and drive past the reservoir on the left towards Câmpulung Moldovenesc.

Beautiful, winding, well-prepared route along the Bistrita. I meet a lot of bikers here. It seems to be relatively well-known in the scene - but not too many here yet 😉

On this stretch of road there is one thing to see: self-made suspension bridges. All of them are original - some seem unstable.

The locals have houses on the other side and use the bridge as access to the road, car or garage.

The route leads along clean, well-prepared and winding mountain roads via Vatra Dornei. Here I find the most original bench of my trip.

We continue up the Pasul Prislop to the Borsa ski area.

This place is teeming with off-road fans (4x4, motocross).

Today I'm pitching my tent at the offRoadventure Borsa camping site. The off-road route there leads from the town of Borsa up the hill. A great panorama awaits you here, with huts built in the old style and few people. I'm greeted by the owner Bouke from the Netherlands with a palinka for each leg.