21. Day 19 after Requejo

Yesterday the owner came at 7 PM and collected the fees and gave us a stamp. Next to me, there were only two people from America in the room. They went out to eat, and I went to bed early because another long stage awaited me the next day.

I woke up at 4 AM and thought I would get up. I went downstairs and made my baguette with cheese in the microwave. During that time, I got dressed and then enjoyed my baguette. I left at around 4:20. As I was about to leave, I first noticed that one pilgrim had slept in the common room below, probably because he snores. At least that’s what he said yesterday, and that’s the only reason I could think of for him sleeping there. Since he was still asleep, I must not have been loud. So, I set out, walking again next to the fast road. Normally, the Camino would have gone through forest paths, but I thought I wouldn’t see much in the dark anyway. After 10 kilometers, I arrived in Mombuey. I then stayed on the road and didn’t need the headlamp at all since it was a full moon. The road stretched on a bit, and it slowly got light. Then around 9 AM, I arrived in Asturianos, where I actually wanted to have a coffee, but everything was still closed there. It had rained on the way, so everything was wet. Fortunately, I found a covered bench and rested for 10 minutes. Then I continued and turned back onto the regular Camino, which led directly into the forest with lots of mud and slush. That’s a good start. And then I slipped right away but managed to catch myself with my hand. Otherwise, I would have been completely covered in mud and probably would have hurt myself, but I was lucky. Because of that, I walked along the road again, and then it started to rain. I didn’t feel like it, and then I saw a bar that was open. I went in and ordered a large coffee with milk. And just like that, my mood was back at its peak. Just the atmosphere in the bar put me in a good mood. The seller with her rustic manner and the conversations of the others. Some ordered breakfast, eggs with bacon, and tortilla. If I hadn’t had breakfast, I would have gotten something too. I thought, why do I get upset about the rain? It’s just water. And I can’t influence it anyway. So, I went out in a good mood, and it didn’t rain anymore. And I turned back into the forest. The path was basically just made of leaves, and you had to watch where you sank into the mud and that you didn’t slip. But I missed those forest paths, and even though it was slippery and somewhat damp, I still enjoyed it. The sun even came out briefly. Then I passed through a few small villages and later crossed the highway on bridges. I also took an apple with me in case I got hungry later or tomorrow. Then I arrived at the next place, which had quite a bit to offer. The place is called Puebla de Sanabria, and besides supermarkets, there were also castles, bridges, and many other things to discover. I went into the supermarket and then took a break on a bench with a view of the bridge, enjoying my drink and yogurts. It was really a lovely break. After half an hour, I continued, and the typical initial difficulties were back. But they were quickly overcome. There were still 12 kilometers to the destination for today, and initially, it went along the road and later back into the fields and along a small stream. The way became again very adventurous, but I enjoyed it. The sun came out a bit, and I was glad I had taken off my long shirt during the break. According to the app, we continued into the forest and then over a path that was flooded by a stream. To the left of it was a beaten path, which I continued on, hoping to cross the stream somewhere else, but it wasn’t possible without getting completely wet. I tried to choose suitable spots, but I failed and went back to the road, walking along it. So, I took a detour of almost 3 kilometers. That’s how it goes sometimes. Then I walked along the road. The actual path was supposed to lead left, but it was blocked. So, I crossed the street. White decision, because as the road on the street crossed back over the actual path, there was a high fence, so if I had somehow continued on the path, I would have had to go all the way back. After a kilometer, we went back into the forest, going up and down, but fortunately not up the big mountain that I saw in the distance. For the last part, I walked again along the highway, and after 50 kilometers, I finally arrived in Requejo. Along the way, I even thought I could get to the next place, but then I had to take the detour, and the path dragged on dreadfully. That’s how it goes sometimes. In the town itself, there is no supermarket and not much else. I went to the public hostel, and I found a room with 10 double beds, where the best spots were already taken. I chose a free bed downstairs near a power outlet and went to shower. Fortunately, it was still warm, as those after me only had cold water left. There are 9 people in the room, and more are expected to come. I’m curious to see how that will turn out. The accommodation is really very simple. There are blankets, also an air conditioning unit, but it probably only turns on when the owner arrives. There is a bathroom with a shower for each gender. But for €5, you can't complain. I lay down and ate my 2 yogurts that I had brought and my salad. A German named David from Aachen joins me, who is also experienced in pilgrimage. Otherwise, it includes people from Spain, Italy, Korea, and Eastern Europe. I don’t think I’ll go out again today because I’ve already eaten, and according to the travel guide, there’s only an expensive restaurant anyway. I checked out the stage for tomorrow and saw that it has some elevation changes and could be very steep. I hope it stays dry tonight.

I will get back to you later or tomorrow.