Lofalitsidwa: 17.03.2018
09/03 - 14/03
Our next destination, the area around the village with the sonorous name of 'Ubatuba', is not so far away from Ilhabela after all. At least that's what we thought when we looked at it on the map. However, who would have thought that we would need almost a whole day to travel the ridiculous 80 km?
On the day of our departure from the island, it rained again. Therefore, we asked our hostess to organize a taxi for us. Unfortunately, none could be found for us either, so we walked to the bus stop. Just before we arrived there, a bus approached and Emi immediately ran to stop it. We got on without really checking where it was going. After the first few meters, we realized that it wasn't going directly to the ferry terminal, but was struggling up the hill. We took a big detour through the higher and somewhat poorer-looking neighborhood. We didn't feel one hundred percent comfortable, as we were the only passengers on the bus and it slowed down near suspicious people. As before, we got away this time and arrived safely at the desired destination...;)
We crossed the ferry back to the mainland, where we walked to the bus terminal again. As usual, we went to the nearest ticket counter and wanted to buy two tickets for the bus to the first stop, 'Caraguatatuba'. However, the young woman at the counter explained to us in Portuguese that we should simply wait for a local bus by the roadside. We were a bit skeptical, but we followed her instructions and joined the other waiting people. After about 30 minutes, a bus finally arrived with the sign 'Caraguatatuba'. However, it drove past us without stopping. So we had to wait again! After another 30 minutes, we had a little more luck, the next bus stopped and we were able to continue our journey. We changed buses in Caraguatatuba and went on to Ubatuba. It took us forever for the short distance of 55 km, as the bus stopped at every bus stop to pick up or drop off passengers. After over an hour and a half, we changed to a taxi in Ubatuba, driven by a completely crazy driver who chauffeured us to the car rental company with life-threatening driving maneuvers. We made it. Well, almost. Receiving the rental car took a little longer as the payment system for the credit card simply wouldn't work. During the waiting time, we got hungrier and more irritated, as we had been on the road for over 5 hours. Eventually, it worked and we got our rental car. Without any further delay, we set off for our accommodation, which was located 20 km outside of Ubatuba.
Driving in Brazil is not as bad as I feared. I actually expected Brazilian traffic to be like in the rest of South America: chaotic, wild, and with constant honking. But to our surprise, the cars drive calmly and orderly, which is certainly due to the very low speed limits. In urban areas, the maximum speed is 30 km/h and on the highway, it is at most 60 km/h. The only really annoying thing is the countless potholes, especially on the smaller streets and alleys in urban areas, and the excessively numerous speed bumps.
After all the unnecessary hardships, at least the check-in went smoothly and the receptionist, possibly seeing our irritation, immediately offered us the use of the whirlpool. I thought that would be a welcome relaxation after such a journey and gratefully accepted the offer. But with lukewarm water and only partially functioning jets, it wasn't.
In the evening, we got a lesson in Brazilian cuisine. We had the idea that if you are on the coast, you can get good and inexpensive fish. We had chosen one of the few restaurants near us and had already taken a seat. We were given the menu and a quick look inside was enough for us to leave the place immediately. The fish dishes were absolutely unspectacular, but they cost at least 20 to 30 euros per serving. Unfortunately, that's not quite within our budget, we had hoped for much cheaper, local food. With heavy hearts, we accepted it and had the choice between pizza, hamburgers, and sushi for the remaining evenings.
The main attraction in the Ubatuba area are definitely the beaches. There are more than 100 of them! So it's not easy to make the right choice or at least a good decision. It's like standing in front of the wine shelf at the supermarket and wanting to buy red wine for the first time. You don't know where to start or if you'll miss out if you make the wrong decision. Therefore, online research was essential to get a little orientation.
All our days in Ubatuba looked very similar. Only the beach changed every day. We got up comfortably, packed our things, and drove to one of the many beaches by rental car. There we relaxed (Emi in the sun, me in the shade), enjoyed the beautiful water, played beach ball, or did a little yoga. Emi also insisted almost every day on drinking a cold coconut or a Caipirinha, depending on whether it was her turn to drive. On the first and last day at the beach, the weather was unfortunately not ideal, it was cloudy and rainy. Therefore, we chose beaches that were not far away and easy to reach.
We were lucky with the weather on the other two days: clear sky and brilliant sunshine. We therefore chose a beach that was secluded and therefore less frequented. Our choice fell on 'Praia das Sete Fontes', which can be reached either by boat or after a short hike through the jungle. We drove the car to the vicinity of the presumed starting point. After some difficulties finding the right way and a parking space, we started walking. The hike took a good hour and was mainly exhausting due to the high humidity and heat. But our efforts were rewarded with a wonderful and (almost) deserted beach with crystal clear water. I immediately set up my travel hammock between two trees and switched on the chill mode. Emi busied herself with deepening her tan.
In addition to this beach, we also visited 'Praia Itamambuca', which is particularly popular with surfers, and 'Praia Prumirim', where we discovered a very nice beach bar. Both were a bit further from our accommodation, but with our rental car, it was no problem. Moreover, we could enjoy the wonderful landscape along the Costa Verde - the 'green coast'.
Conclusion:
5 beaches in 4 days - Ubatuba and its surroundings are an absolute paradise for beach lovers. Here you can find every kind of beach you can imagine. There is definitely something for everyone and it's perfect for a beach vacation. Initially, you have to get used to some peculiarities of Brazilian (beach) culture, but we had no difficulties with that and were able to enjoy the fantastic coastal landscape with numerous beaches. However, you need a bit of luck with the weather, as Ubatuba is known for many rainy days. So you often have to expect cloudy skies and showers. But it's even more beautiful when it clears up and the sun shows itself in all its glory.
Hasta pronto!
E&L
>> Next stop: Paraty <<