Place to See - Durbar Square in Kathmandu

Diterbitkan: 20.09.2018

Langgan Surat Berita

The Durbar Square south of the tourist center Thamel is THE Place to see in Kathmandu. This royal court is a collection of palace and temple complexes in a confined space and today part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Unfortunately, some of the more than 50 temples, which date from the 15th to the 18th century, were completely destroyed in the devastating earthquake of 2015. Since then, renovation work has been underway and fragments have been painstakingly pieced together, as shown in the Hamunam Dhoka Durbar Museum, one of the numerous temple buildings. From the Golden Gate to the Hanuman Statue to the various Chowks and the hundreds of temples, there is so much to see. The whole complex is completely confusing and I feel a bit disoriented at first.

And since it's already afternoon and I don't feel like rushing through all the temples, I do what the Lonely Planet recommends first. Armed with my admission ticket (1000 rupees), my passport, and a passport photo (which I actually have with me because it was recommended in a world travel blog), I make my way to the tourist site. There I am issued a tourist pass, which allows me access to Durbar Square for the entire duration of my visa without having to pay again. Very cool! Especially since this is also an important place that cannot be crossed during the day. After that, I just let myself drift.

I am completely surprised that in the midst of this bustling old town - just like yesterday - there is an incredibly relaxed and spiritual atmosphere. No one seems to be in a hurry here. Couples in love sit on the steps of the pagoda-like temples, souvenir vendors try to sell their necklaces and bags to women, small children chase after the numerous pigeons - and their mothers chase after them.

This time there is a 2-day festival with an unpronounceable name, a Hindu one, making everyone dress up. And even more magnificent and colorful saris than usual shine brightly. There is a festive atmosphere and the children receive sweets and balloons while the adults light a candle and say a brief prayer at the Kala Bhairav. According to legend, anyone who lies in front of this mural depicting the black sword-wielding Bhairov will vomit blood and die.

I end up at Kumari Bahal, the "Monastery of the Virgin". The Kumari, the "Virgin Goddess," appears on the balcony twice a day. Unintentionally, I am there at exactly the right time. Awesome! The courtyard fills with believers who reverently look up at the balcony. Taking photos is strictly forbidden. The fantastically carved wooden doors open and a little girl about 4 years old becomes visible, splendidly dressed, elaborately made up, and with a very serious look. After 10 seconds, the presentation is over and the incarnation of the goddess Tuleja disappears again. I sit down and read in the travel guide what is written about her. She looked almost sad.