Iris
Mensch doll, dass Du da mitsurfst, freu mich schon auf die nächsten Bilder!!!Verëffentlecht: 14.07.2019
This day consisted of surfing - early in the morning and in the afternoon. Why? Because the waves are better then, you know... At noon, you literally get fried by the sun.
So, wake up at 6:30 and have two cereal bars for breakfast, then head to the water.
I was lucky enough to be taken by a local surfer who works at the hostel.
The regular Americans of the working class all have two jobs, one for the morning and one for the evening... It's just like on TV here.
The surf area this morning was significantly more challenging than yesterday's, so I surfed the proven route again this afternoon :)
Of course, you can also get your surfboard on a regular car :)
When you're in California with a surfboard, whether at the beach or in the car, you already feel like a national hero - people look at you like you're the coolest person :)
Now it's enough with surfing for now, as cool as it looks, there's a lot of work behind it. Get the board, transport it, wash the wetsuit, clean the stuff, etc.
Still no pictures of surfing, maybe they'll come later...