A week in Denali National Park

Monday, 08/13 Denali Park, rain is expected, but it was quite friendly. When we check in, we ask if there might still be space in Teklanika. The ranger looks slightly surprised and says: Actually, it seems like someone canceled today. Cool, that means we can drive into the park with Verny up to mile 29 for three additional nights to camp along the banks of the Teklanika River. Lucky punch 🍀🤩! (Fully booked for months).

On foot, we explore the entrance area of the park at Riley Creek. The weather was so friendly that we later drove to Savage River (mile 15, the last point reachable by private vehicle). On the Savage River Loop Trail, we got a first impression. Mega!

The campground at Riley Creek is a beautiful place, the 146 sites are arranged in such a way that you almost feel like you're alone. The nights are cool, around 10-13 °C during the day.

On Tuesday we booked a bus tour to Kantishna (old gold mines that were incorporated into the park in the 80s). Departure 08:45 Back home, 19:55. After just 10 minutes on the bus, it was clear that this is not our thing... a looooong day ahead. The nature is fantastic! The wildlife and scenery are simply overwhelming. We spot several grizzlies, Dall sheep, moose cows, caribou, a wolf, a fox, an owl, golden eagles, and a porcupine on this first ride. There is a woman and a man sitting behind us, he is a 'photographer'. She comments on every one of his pictures with superlatives like 'amazing! Just gorgeous! Sooo cool! Oh great! Look at that! Fantastic'. We almost go crazy! And no, there was NO place to change seats, the bus was FULL! The park can only be explored by bus, on foot, or by bike up to mile 92. The positive thing is that we have seen the entire park and can orient ourselves much better for the coming days.
Not shabby :-), but 'expensive' to endure. The Denali was wrapped majestically in thick, gray clouds.

Back in Verny, it's time to precook the macaroni for the next day. This time we stop at Polychrome Pass on the way to Toklat River. The area offers more beautiful hikes, in Toklat we could walk along the riverbed or follow the road. More of a bad weather program. Cold and windy, occasionally wet, but dry during the hike! Absolutely beautiful! Yes, the nature here in the park is unique. When we start walking, we see a grizzly bear on the slope to our right, so we keep left, as there is a ridge above the park road. Down the hill, through the sometimes dense and tall undergrowth, through the marshy plain over streams, until we reach the desired opposing slope where we want to walk west on the ridge. In the middle of the dense undergrowth, we see two willow ptarmigans that let us come very close before they fly uphill and away.
The view from Mt Polychrome is incredible, broad rivers fed by glaciers meander through the plain, the mountains shine in all colors (that's why it's called polychrome folks), yellow, reddish from basalt, and of course, all shades of gray interspersed with green vegetation in the partially barren areas and lush vegetation in the marshy areas. From the ridge, you can see further endless mountain ranges to the north and two tents far below in the neighboring valley. A caribou sees us coming and runs down the slope. Two buses enjoy the presence of the bull on the park road.

Just before the Polychrome Pass stop, a camper shuttle bus passes us on the way back. This allows us to return to the entrance area of the park without waiting. A beautiful caribou bull, more Dall sheep, and 'hooray' a young moose bull, mountain squirrels, and golden eagles are the highlights of the return trip. A beautiful day, but still no view of the big one.

The next day, we skip the Wonder Lake, it doesn't make sense to take such a long bus ride and not be able to do anything because the sky is overcast and it can rain at any time. The next destination is the Mountain Trail above the Eielson Visitor Center (which offers the perfect view of Denali). A dry ascent to the ridge, then over to the right towards the summit, until the cold wind becomes too uncomfortable. On the left side, we see two caribou on the slope below us. Just before reaching the goal, we are caught in the rain on the descent. At the visitor center, we learn that the next day is supposed to bring beautiful weather! Nina can hardly contain her excitement. On the way back, there is only one topic, we have to be the first on the first bus into the park tomorrow to see the big one. Cool day! Full of expectations, we go to bed.

We crawl out of bed at 06:00. It's cold, the sky is already quite blue. We manage to get second place in line at the bus stop. Expectantly, we board Manuel's bus and 'squeeze' our way through the passengers with backpacks and poles to the free seats at the back of the bus.

Manuel is the perfect showman. 'Alrighty, 10 minutes brrrrrrreak'. Just before Stoney Hill, we all have to close our eyes. Film sound off, then Manuel drives slowly towards the next curve and croaks 'open your eyes and welcome Deeeeeeenaaaaaaaaalliiiiiiiii!'.

And there it is, 'the big one' in all its splendor, in the midst of the Alaska Range. Foraker (his wife) and Peter's Dome shine in the morning sun. Gigantic.

Manuel stops at the side of the road and lets us get off to fully enjoy this spectacle. The cameras start clicking like crazy!

At the Eielson Visitors Center, we enjoy a different perspective of the Alaska Range and devour the sandwiches prepared in the early morning. The next destination is a 'Reflection Pond' (pond with reflections of the Alaska Range) above Wonder Lake. Awesome!

On the way back, we make a stop at Polychrome Pass to once again enjoy the ridge with good visibility and sunlight. Two caribou and the Swiss couple we met in the morning while waiting for the bus enrich our walk.

Dust and sweat are washed away with Verny's outdoor shower (a bit chilly with the wind, but feels really good!), then it's time to start the grill. With Ahi Tuna, a flat-iron steak, baked potatoes, and a delicious grilled cauliflower, we are happy and satisfied. Vivienne and Alain drop by with a 'goodnight beer', rounding off another fantastic day with an Alaskan Amber and a round of Yatzy. A day full of happiness, only about 30% of the park visitors actually see Denali, about 10% 💃🏼❤️ see it in its entirety!